[Soap]

Being the wonderful woman that my wife is, she just bought me a Ka-Bar as a random gift. I've owned one marine combat style knife previously, an Ontario. I had sort of mixed opinions on this pattern but I'm mysteriously falling in love with the beautiful simplicity and the historical qualites of my new blade. The new Ka-Bar seems to be of excellent quality and if I understand the knife's limitations, it should give me a lifetime of service.

This pattern of knife has probably seen some of the harshest battlefield conditions the past century had to offer. It is my assumption that things such as leather conditioner or neetsfoot oil were not available in the jungles of the Pacific. So my questions are, how well did the stacked leather handle and sheath hold up in combat conditions? What did soldiers use to preserve the leather parts? What should I use to preserve the leather if I expose it to harsh conditions? In general, I use neatsfoot oil on everything from saddles to gunleather, would that work okay in this case as well? Any input is appreciated and any first hand accounts are even more appreciated. Thanks in advance!

[dfariswheel]

Ka-Bar's were, and supposedly are, treated with an anti-fungal agent to prevent rot. Individual users treated the handle with whatever was available, or didn't bother to treat it at all.

In either case the leather didn't stand up too well to use, which is why the government changed all knife and bayonet handles to black fiberglass. Many, or most older Ka-bar type knives have loose handles, and sometimes missing leather washers.

It's impossible to positively prevent leather from deteriorating or absorbing water, but I've had the best luck with giving the leather a coat of ordinary Thompson's Water Seal.

Occasionally, you will see info on the Thompson's cans about treating canvas tents, and leather boots.

The only "problem" I've found is a tendency for leather rifle slings to develop a coat of fine white "grains" that brushes right off without any damage to the leather.

[Bob]

I read something somewhere about soaking the leather handle in liquid parafin. You would have to be very careful doing so because when parafin is melted it is very flammable. But supposedly this treatment does a good job of water proofing the leather handle. I haven't had the courage to attempt it yet though.
Bob

[Bruz]

Daniel, congrads on your new knife...don't you know that it is customary to post pictures on new toys? :D

I have always done the neatsfoot on all my new leather also, appears to work great, but I do not store the knives in the sheaths...what type of abuse are you concerned about?

[Soap]

Thanks for the replies all!

Bruz- I'm getting there! I wanted to pick up a pack of Lucky Strikes so I can do a Ka-Bar/1911/Lucky Strikes still life. I'm not concerned about any abuse, I was just curious about how soldiers protected their weapons in the field. More of a historical question than a practical one I suppose.

[brownie0486]

Daniel Flory:

Not many I was with for a year did anything to them but make them quiet while humping the bush.

Soldiers are historically hard on equipment. Rifles were cleaned everytime we stopped for any reason, the k-bar got no such treatment. It was used roughly, stuck away and used roughly again when needed next.

Good luck with you gift. A gesture such as your wifes deserves at least a dinner and a movie [ not for the knife, but for the thought process that ocurred which allowed her to make this happen.

Hint: 2x a year soak it in mineral oil and let dry naturally.

Brownie

[Soap]

Thanks Brownie. Don't worry, I'm taking the wife out to a place in Indy called "The Melting Pot". Its a fondue place so hopefully we can get some good food and some good conversation. Much better than getting dragged to a chick flick! :D

[goon]

I read something somewhere about soaking the leather handle in liquid parafin. You would have to be very careful doing so because when parafin is melted it is very flammable. But supposedly this treatment does a good job of water proofing the leather handle. I haven't had the courage to attempt it yet though.
Bob


I used to play with parafin when I was a kid. You can get it pretty hot before it combusts. It will start to ignite, then go out just before it catches fire. Good way to tell when it is hot enough to pour.
I made a ladle out of an old dipper and a long wood handle so I could stay away from the flame if it did ignite. I think it could be done safely. I may try it with my little pilot survival knife just to see if it works.
Do you think heating it and pouring it over the leather would work, or would you have to dip the handle in the wax?

Also, I have this Remington spray on teflon stuff that is supposed to be used to lube guns. I still use Hoppes on them, but the teflon works well to keep rust off the blade in the places where the finish has worn off. It stays there with use, and doesn't dry off going in and out of the sheath. It does give the blade a little bit of a whitish film though.
Just a little more useless knowledge that I managed to acquire over my short life...

[Ed Brunner]

Throw your neatsfoot oil away. Use Johnson's Paste Wax or Mink Oil. Neatsfoot is for ball gloves, I think.:)

[Bruz]

Throw your neatsfoot oil away. Use Johnson's Paste Wax or Mink Oil. Neatsfoot is for ball gloves, I think

Ed, Neatsfoot is for gloves, I use it on all leather...do you know something I don't?

[hso]

I asked this question over at the Camillus forum in Bladeforums and Ethan Becker gave a good reply.

"A trick I got years ago from Larry Harley, who I believe got from his dad,
is to melt parrafin in a coffee can in a sauce pan of boiling water to the depth of the handle or a little deeper and immerse the handle for a few minutes and let it harden . I have had very good success with this method. .. the parrafin is impervious to water and appears not to change dimension even after many years. You should lay down aluminum foil along the exit route of the knife from the pot and DO NOT USE A GAS STOVE ! I use a small visegrip padded with cardboard to hold the blade. Let it soak in thoroughly before removing it from the parrafin. You will find parrafin in the supermarket in the canning section.

I have treated several knives in this manner and other than darkening and dulling the surface of the leather I have found it extremely effective on using knives.

I did the neatsfoot oil routine on an old MKII many years ago and after only a couple of decades the leather shrank in a most unfortunate way!

All best....
Ethan"

[Ed Brunner]

In my experience neatsfoot oil softens leather which is not what I want in holsters or sheaths.

[brownie0486]

hso:

That sounds like a plan [ parafin ]. Anything Larry uses will probably work. He's a real world guy with knives as you know.;)

Mineral oil from the grocery shelves 2x a year has done well for me for years. I actually found out about mineral oil when it was recommended as the best for ivory handles.

I have an 8 pound block of Mammoth Ivory tusk waiting to be used on several smaller blades or 1 big bowie. :rolleyes:

Brownie

[Bonker]

I use clear, synthetic motor oil but I'd experiment a lot on things you don't care about before you do a good knife/holster.
But once you get it how you like it then motor oil is awesome for preventing decay from outdoor exposure.

I'd NEVER use anything like mink oil that softens the leather a great deal. I've lost too many good pairs of hunting boots that way :)

[hso]

Brownie - I gotta nice nickle/iron meteorite that I haven't cut yet, wanna trade ivory for meteroite?:D

[Ed Brunner]

The mink oil I use is KIWI Mink Oil with silicone. It is a solid like shoe polish and as far as I can tell it waterproofs and preserves, but does soften like neatsfoot or other oils. I have used it on leather for years including holsters and sheaths.

[brownie0486]

hso:

As luck would have it, the ivory is with Bill Bagwell for a damascus project he's working on for me. [ Long blade ].;)

The meteorite sounds very interesting.

What size piece of mammoth were you lopoking for?

Brownie