[00-Guy]

Recently I got my C&R. I am hoping to purchase a gun in 38 Special. So I have been seriously looking at the Colt Officer Target and Match models. (Both listed as C&R) What should I examine to determine if the gun is "shootable"? I understand cylinder lock-up issues (as well as I can!). What other conditions might be an issue?

[SigfanUSAF]

Check the cylinder end play (the gap between the forcing cone of the barrel and the front of the cylinder). Should be only a few thousandths, with no front to rear movement. Make sure you cannot push off the hammer with it cocked. Make sure your lock up is good on all cyls, as an expensive problem can easily be missed if you only check a few cylinders. With the yoke open, spin the cyl (don't go crazy) to ensure the ejector rod isn't bent.

[Jim March]

"The checkout" (sticky this thread) needs only minor fine-tuning for a classic Colt DA.

The difference is that the Colt cannot have any rotational play at full lockup, unlike the S&W and Ruger designs.

[PotatoJudge]

While cocking the hammer real slow look for:
1. The bolt to move the instant the hammer starts to travel
2. The bolt to return as one quick snap, with one click, in the middle third of the leading groove on the cylinder bolt notch
3. The cylinder to rotate fully to allow the bolt to fall in its notch (by cocking the hammer, without assisting the cylinder around)
4. Do this with all the cylinders
There's more, but that covers the bolt and some of the hand movement.
You can search for a Colt checkout that dfariswheel posted. I don't remember if it was here, on thefiringline.com, or on the Colt forums.

[dfariswheel]

Most of the Officer's Model Match models aren't a C&R since it was introduced in 1952 and made until 1969.

Check-out is as listed above, for checking cylinder end shake, and push off of the hammer.

To check for correct timing, here's my instructions:

This covers all old style Colt DA revolvers including:
The 1917 and New Service, Official Police, Officer's Models, Detective Special, Police Positive and Special, Old Model Trooper, Diamondback, and Python.
It is NOT valid for newer Colt's like the Trooper Mark III/King Cobra gun, and it's not valid for any other brand or model of revolver.

To check Colt timing:

BOLT RETRACTION AND "SNAP BACK".
Open the cylinder and look at the small "lug" in the bottom of the cylinder window. This is the cylinder locking bolt.

Cock the hammer, and watch as the bolt retracts into the frame and pops back out.

The bolt MUST begin to retract THE INSTANT the hammer begins to move.
There MUST be NO (ZERO) hammer movement possible before the bolt starts to retract.

The bolt should retract smoothly with no hesitation until it's fully retracted, then it MUST pop back out with a clean "snap".
There should be no hesitation, and no amount of "creeping" back out.

CYLINDER UNLOCKING.
Close the cylinder.
Use your left thumb or fore finger to again cock the hammer, closely watching the cylinder bolt as you SLOWLY cock the hammer.

As the hammer comes back, the bolt will retract away from the cylinder.

The bolt MUST retract far enough to unlock the cylinder BEFORE the cylinder begins to rotate.

If the bolt is still slightly engaged with the cylinder lock notch, the cylinder will be attempting to turn while still partially locked.

This produces a "catch" or "hard spot" in the trigger pull and will damage both the bolt and the cylinder lock notches.
This often appears as metal "pulled out" of the lock notches, with rounded off and burred notches.

BOLT DROP TIMING.
Continue to cock the hammer, laying your right index finger on the cylinder just enough to prevent "free wheeling".

Watch for the bolt to drop back onto the cylinder. WHERE the bolt drops is CRITICAL.

The bolt MUST drop onto the lead or ramp in front of the actual cylinder notch.
If the bolt drops too soon, (in front of the notch ramp), it will mar the finish of the cylinder.

The bolt SHOULD drop into the MIDDLE 1/3rd section of the ramp.

If the bolt drops late, (farther toward the actual locking notch) the revolver may display "cylinder throw-by".
In this condition, during double action shooting the cylinder may rotate PAST the locking notch, and fire in an unlocked condition.

It's the nature of the Colt action, that a hesitant or jerky trigger pull by the user can induce throw-by in even a properly tuned Colt.
The Colt trigger should be pulled with a smooth, even pull, with no sudden jerks at the beginning.

CYLINDER LOCKUP.
Continue to pull the hammer back and both watch and listen for the bolt to drop into the cylinder lock notch.

The bolt MUST drop into the actual lock notch BEFORE the hammer reaches full cock.

The most common Colt mis-time situation is the hammer cocks before the bolt drops into the lock notch. (Hammer is cocked, but cylinder isn't locked).

In this condition, with the hammer fully cocked, you can push the cylinder slightly, and you will hear the "CLICK" as the bolt drops into lock.

In my experience, most Colt's leave the factory with the bolt dropping a little late into the lead, but usually wear in to correct timing.

If the bolt drops onto the cylinder early, no real problem, but there will be extra finish wear.

If the bolt drops late (closer to the lock notch) the cylinder may "throw by" or rotate TOO far in double action and this can cause off-center primer hits and firing while unlocked.

Each of these checks should be done on EACH chamber. All of these checks are better done individually. In other words, do the bolt retraction check on all six chambers, then do the bolt drop test, and so on.

A properly tuned Colt will:
Have a smoothly functioning bolt with no sticky or hesitant movement.

Unlock before the cylinder begins to turn.

The bolt will drop onto the middle 1/3rd of the ramp.

The bolt will drop into the lock notch before the hammer reaches full cock.

Have a smooth trigger pull, which does "stack".

[Snake Eyes]

Could we just have a standing round of applause for Mr. dfariswheel, please?

Sir, I've been reading your advice and input here and on the Colt forum for a few years now and I really want to thank you for taking the time to pass your knowledge along.

I really, truly appreciate what I've learned from you and I understand the value of your time, a gift that you give freely to the members of these forums.

Sincerely: Thank you. Thank you very much!

(PS--Jim March: YOU TOO! Thanks for the GREAT revolver check-out instructions!)

[Iggy]

I second the motion on giving these guys a round of clap!!!:evil:



Seriously, Thanks guys for you continued participation and knowlege.

[00-Guy]

dfariswheel writes: Most of the Officer's Model Match models aren't a C&R since it was introduced in 1952 and made until 1969.

The following are listed as C&R by the AFTE.

Colt, Officers model (1904-1930), .38 cal. revolver.
Colt, Officers model (1930-1949), .22 cal. revolver.
Colt, Officers model Match (1953-1969), .22 and .38 cal. revolvers.
Colt, Officers model Special (1949-1952), .22 and .38 cal. revolvers.
Colt, Officers model Target (1930-1949), .32 and .38 cal revolvers.
Colt, Officer's Model, .38 caliber revolver, serial number 535472, 585683.

http://www.atf.gov/firearms/curios/sec2.htm

The shocker for me since I was looking for one also was the .22 Colt Officers Target not listed. Go figure.

I have printed out the checkout info. Thanks for the help.

[Standing Wolf]

Could we just have a standing round of applause for Mr. dfariswheel, please?

Definitely!