[jayp]

I think I know the answer to this, but I just wanted to confirm.

Is it normal to have a "scratch" where the center of the extractor star makes contact with the inside frame of the revolver at the rear of the cylinder. The "scratch" begins at the outside edge and ends in the center, where the cylinder star locks to the frame.

I think this is normal- just wanted to check. Just noticed it on my new 642.

Thanks!

[XavierBreath]

Perfectly normal.

[jayp]

Thanks, XavierBreath!

[Brian Williams]

You will also find a "scratch" around the cylinder, signs of a used gun. That is OK they add character.

[jayp]

I've no problem with a little character!
I plan on using this revolver as a primary carry gun.
I really love it!

[atlctyslkr]

Some of mine have it some don't. Maybe I need to fire them more :p

[jayp]

I'll probably not fire the 642 a whole lot, given it has an aluminum frame and is primarily a carry gun, Just enough to maintain proficiency.

Are the revolvers that don't have the "scratch" ones that you haven't fired a lot?

[elenius]

My GP100 has the scratch from the extractor star, scratches on the cylinder from the cylinder lock, scratches on the trigger, and scratches on the hammer... I was also kind of wondering whether all this was normal, but it sounds like it is then. Good :)

[Onmilo]

elenius, the scratches on the hammer and trigger indicate the interiors of the frame were not adequately finish polished at the factory.
The scratch around the cylinder indicates the revolver was not precision timed during assembly.
A rear frame drag mark is indicative of more than adequate bearing surface for the cylinder to achieve proper lock-up.
All of these faults could be corrected with better fitting at the factory and they just prove the majority of firearms are only assembled today.
They are not fitted like they were in days of old when folks took pride in their work and labor costs were incredibly low for the quality of the work produced.

[jad0110]

jayp,

If you haven't already done so, stop by The 642 Club here in the revolver forum. TONS of great information on the 642. It may take you weeks to read through all the posts, but you will enjoy every minute.

Enjoy your 642!

[jayp]

Jad0110, I've been reading the 642 club thread- lot's of good posts there.
I'm enjoying my 642 immensely!

[jayp]

Onmilo:

About when did revolvers become less well crafted? My friend has a 4 inch blued Smith and Wesson .357 from the early 80's that seems well put together (though it's been a a long time since I have handled this revolver.)

I've never seen (other than photographs) of and old Colt Python, for example. Were these finely fitted revolvers?

[CMcDermott]

It's not really a scratch, it's a rub mark. The S&W design has the end of the extractor rod spring-loaded to extend out of the extractor star. It forms the rear lock for the cylinder, when you push the cylinder release latch forward, the extractor rod is forced into the cylinder; out of the frame and pushing the forward locking lug out of the front of the extractor rod housing, allowing the cylinder to swing out. But the since the extractor rod is spring loaded to extend out of the extrator star, it rubs against the frame as the cylinder is swung out. There is nothing anyone can do to prevent this from happening on a S&W.

The old Colt design (Python, Detective Special, Officers Model etc, not the Mk III, Mk V or Anaconda) works differently. The cylinder release latch controls a pin the sticks out of the frame into the extractor star. You push the release latch away from the cylinder, retracting the pin and allowing the cylinder to swing out of the frame; without putting a rub mark on the frame. There also isn't a forward locking point in this design, which is why the old Colt design's extractor rod just hang under the barrel instead of fitting into a forward locking lug like a S&W.

As far as the lines around the cylinders, they are caused by the cylinder bolt scrapping across the surface of the cylinder. This can be a result of incorrect timing, or just careless handling. If you close the cylinder so the bolt fits neatly into the bolt cut, then you won't get this line on a well timed revolver. If you close the cylinder so that you have to rotate the cylinder after it's in the frame to get the cylinder bolt into the bolt cut, the cylinder bolt scrapes around the cylinder leaving this line even on a well timed revolver.

[jayp]

Thanks for the clear explanation of our revolver "character marks" CMcDermott.