[carsonbm]

How do you get the case injector spring over the head of the bolt, force it?

[EddieCoyle]

If you're standing at the front of the machine, the ejector wire rests against the left side of the bolt, and yes there is some pre-stress to overcome to put it there.

[EddieCoyle]

If you haven't already, it might be a good idea to download the user manual for your press from Hornady's website (http://www.hornady.com/display.php?t=21).

[carsonbm]

Thanks, I did down load the instruction, I quess I didn't understand them.

[1911user]

Thanks, I did down load the instruction, I quess I didn't understand them.

Don't feel bad. The instructions make sense after you know how everything goes together. It isn't quite so obvious the first time especially if this is your first progressive press. I don't consider setting up a LNL-AP to be an easy task, but it's not impossible either. Just go step by step setting up each reloading operation (sizing, priming, case expand/powder drop, seating, crimping); they are truly independant operations. Make sure each stage is completely setup (and locked in place) before moving on to setup the next. Just go in order of the dies and don't get in a hurry.

[XD Niner]

Just to clarify, the spring wire rests against the front of the bolt and is pinned under the flange of the bolt. It does not go around the body of the bolt.

[carsonbm]

That is exactly what I wanted to know.

[Cloudpeak]

If you need a picture, let me know and I'll snap one & post it. It will all be worth it when you get it set up. I really like my L-N-L.

Cloudpeak

[EddieCoyle]

I really like my L-N-L.

Me too. The only problem I have is ejecting shorter cartridges. Longer rounds, like .38 Spl, .500 Mag, and rifle cartridges eject fine. However, shorter rounds like the .45 ACP get wedged between the shell plate and ejector wire and either get stuck, or get stuck for a second and then shoot across the room.

Does anyone (1911user?) have any insight on how to tweak the thing so it ejects the shorter rounds?

I loaded up 500 .45 ACP's last night and it seemed like I was picking every other round out by hand. It really kept me out of my rhythm. I'm about to do 1000 10mm's and want to get this right.

[ialevy]

I ground a radius on the edge of each slot in the shell plate. Just a little bit rounder on the edges and the cases will eject better.

I suggest some trial and error. Grind a little off each, run the press and adjust. You don't want to take off too much!!

Overall, a good press - loaded thousands of rounds.

The bad points?

Case retention spring.

Ejection system.

Priming system can be annoying.

I still plan to add a Dillon 650 to my loading room and keep the LNL for less loaded calibers....

[1911user]

Mine ejects 45 auto fine using a stock-shape ejector wire. I have the newer style shellplate with the rounded entry into each slot; maybe that makes a difference? 223 ejects fine also. You can see a pic of the newer shellplates on the hornady website.

It's a pain to remove each loaded round by hand. BTDT until I could get a short crimp die that would work in station 5.

[EddieCoyle]

I thought about putting more of a radius on the back edge of the shellplate cutouts. I'll give that a try.

BTW, I made my own short crimp dies - I have a grinder.

[Cloudpeak]

I've read a couple of posts where they talk about polishing the ejecting spring. I haven't done that yet. I found that, if I go too fast on the upstroke, I will have a few cartridges bind up. I slowed just a bit and the problem went away.

I haven't had any problems with the case retention spring but have read about people who have. I bought a rubber "O" as a spare in case the spring breaks. It works OK but the spring is better.

Cloudpeak

[EddieCoyle]

I called Hornady and complained when my spring broke and they send me 5 of them gratis.

Cloud,

What caliber are you loading?

[1911user]

BTW, I made my own short crimp dies - I have a grinder.

Ditto except I used a hacksaw first then smoothed the die bottom with a grinder and round file. A hornady die lock ring works nicely as a cutting guide and the flats on the ring make it easy to hold in a vise. However, I'd just buy the hornady crimp dies if doing it again. Another factor is that lee isn't selling the basic taper crimp dies anymore. They were a nice cheap die to cut/grind.

[EddieCoyle]

I bought my dies - over 30 sets in all, many of them unused, at an estate sale here for $5. Not each, but $5 total. I also got an RCBS single stage press, digital scale, and other accessories in the same lot. I have dies in calibers that I don't even own (yet). When the time comes that I need to buy a crimping die, I'll go with the Hornady.

I've read a couple of posts where they talk about polishing the ejecting spring.

I tried this with the replacement ejector wire that I got from Hornady and it didn't seem to help. The reason for replacement was directly related to the long crimping die discussion.:D

[Cloudpeak]

<I called Hornady and complained when my spring broke and they send me 5 of them gratis.

Cloud,

What caliber are you loading?>

I've been loading 40 S&W. I just got a new SA 1911 stainless Loaded in 45 cal and am gearing up to reload them. If only Penns bullets would send me the 2,000 cast bullets I ordered awhile back, I'd be in business!

BTW, anyone, how do you quote text?

Cloudpeak