October 5, 2006, 09:07 AM
A while back I had found and saved a way (website) to adjust the whole the rear sight on a m16a2 for a 150 meter zero which is far superior in my opinion to the 300 meter zero that I have to work with as an 11B. It involved moving the screws that hold the rear sight base down and other specific type info. My computer went kaplooie and I lost this info, anyone out there able to help, or does anyone know what I am even talking about?
Thanks in advance
October 5, 2006, 09:23 AM
Reeps, welcome to THR. If my feeble memory is correct from 1968, the 16 was zeroed at 2" low at 25 meters which would be about 2" high at 100 meters and dead on at 150. I may be off on this and if so,someone correct me.
Thank you for your service to this nation.
Byron, 11B , 4th Inf 68-69 Nam
October 5, 2006, 09:44 AM
It sounds like you're describing the Santose IBSZ (http://groups.msn.com/TheMarylandAR15ShootersSite/improvedbattlesightzero.msnw), though his method is a 200 meter zero.
October 5, 2006, 09:50 PM
You nailed it. Thank you very much.
Our battle zero's are 300 meters which makes everything shorter than that too high in my opinion. I dislike holding off. I like poi = poa but thats what I'm used too.
October 6, 2006, 02:22 AM
I just zero my rifle based on what looks best in my ballistics calculator.
The way I zero my Bushmater xm15 A3 20in with my handloaded 62gr SS109 rounds is simple:
I have the point of impact 2.5 inch above point of aim at 100yds, which is exactly 1 inch high at 50yds, and the line of sight and the path of the pullet converge exactly at 25yds. This adds up to a zero at exactly 240yds which I believe is around 220 meters. I usually just zero at 50yds then move on to 100yds to make sure. Then I proceed to use hold over using the mildots on my reticule that i have in memory for certain ranges when in 9x magnification and I can consistently hit targets out to 500yds with no scope adjustments from then on.
This is method is perfect for me.