Reloading .41 Magnum


October 10, 2006, 04:48 PM
I'm reloading for a Marlin Lever gun, and two stainless steel Smith & Wesson Revolvers. A 4", and a 6". I'm useing 210 gr JHP. I don't have access to my load data, but I loaded 200 with Herco, and 200 with Bullseye. I seemed to get a better pattern with the Bullseye in both pistols. I was wondering if anyone else had loaded .41 Mag with either of these?


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Ben Shepherd
October 10, 2006, 05:14 PM
No, but if you have lil gun, 2400, 296, blue dot, or N110, I'd be glad to give you some chrono data I have.

Bullseye isn't the best choice for the rifle unless you want light end plinkers though. I'd stick with the herco given those 2 choices.

October 10, 2006, 06:03 PM
I have been using Unique for loads shot in my Marlin 1894FG, various Smith .41 Magnums, and a couple .41 Magnum Ruger Redhawks. (Yes, I am addicted but I don't want help.)

My loads are usually made with lead semiwadcutters. I'm currently shooting 230 grain SWCs, but have also used 215 and 225s. All shoot pretty well with loads around 900 fps. This just about duplicates the velocity of the old .41 Magnum "Police Load." It is still a good load for the .41.

October 11, 2006, 10:01 AM
I used herco last about '95-'96, so the memory isn't so good.
I found herco works best with 170 grain bullets, so I have no data for you as I didn't find anything that was acceptable.
For accuracy with 210 grain bullets, I'd recommend 2400. The 17.5 grain load is VERY accurate, and will prolly be about the middle of what you could expect as far as recoil. As usual, the books are wrong on velocity, it's at least 100 lower than what the books say.
For the same accuracy, and a bit more OOMPH!, try H110 with a magnum primer.
With the load I used I use 3 pounds of powder, and don't have 1000 rounds made, so you go through some powder, but console yourself with the fact that you're saving a poopload of money by not buying factory ammo.
Remember, as always, do NOT reduce H110 below listed minimums, it gets a little squirrely.
2400 is an excellent powder for .41 magnum.
I haven't found a fast powder that groups acceptable in the 'middle magnum', it likes slow powders.
Your best bet to use up that herco is to buy some 170 grain bullets.
I seem to remember very good accuracy from sierra 170, but they weren't cheap, even back then.

October 11, 2006, 10:08 AM
"I'd stick with the herco given those 2 choices"
I agree.

"lil gun, 2400, 296, blue dot, or N110, I'd be glad to give you some chrono data I have."
Ben I'd appreciate that. I am looking for 1 powder to load for both rifle and revolver.

ACP230 said
I have been using Unique for loads shot in my Marlin 1894FG, various Smith .41 Magnums, and a couple .41 Magnum Ruger Redhawks. (Yes, I am addicted but I don't want help.)

My loads are usually made with lead semiwadcutters. I'm currently shooting 230 grain SWCs, but have also used 215 and 225s. All shoot pretty well with loads around 900 fps. This just about duplicates the velocity of the old .41 Magnum "Police Load." It is still a good load for the .41.

ACP230, what velocity differences are you seeing between the rifle and Redhawk?

Thanks for the input. I was hoping someone had experience with Bullseye or Herco as I've had the best luck with the Herco in my 357s & 38s.


October 11, 2006, 10:13 AM

Thank-You. I'm not familiar with the H100.
What are You shooting these through?


October 11, 2006, 10:19 AM
I have lots of .41s, I have 3 657s, a performance center, several blackhawks, a taurus, etc.....
Need I go on......

October 11, 2006, 10:24 AM
I have a 6" Redhawk, 6" 657, & 4" 657 that I'm loading for. A Marlin SS 41LTD, and I think the other Marlin Lever is a 1894 FG. It's the one with the curved lever and an 18 or 20' barrel.


October 11, 2006, 10:29 AM
Thank-you for the pictures. Very nice. I have to go, but I'd like to hear more.


October 11, 2006, 10:29 AM
I tried to buy one of the marlins, but they were in short supply when the came out.
After 6 months, in a brief moment of sanity I canceled my order.
I couldn't really think of anything I could use it for..........

Ben Shepherd
October 11, 2006, 12:01 PM
I'd say blue dot or 2400 then. Blue dot will give you more *rounds per pound* than 2400. And velocity wise blue dot will safely do 1400 with a 210 slug. Faster just isn't needed, unless you want it to act like a varmit bullet.

2400 will be slightly dirtier than blue dot, can be pushed a little harder than blue dot, is a little less flashy, and less temperature sensitive.

If you have a 44 mag or do heavy 45 colt stuff 2400 would be your best bet, if ONLY 41 mag concerns you, then I'd steer you toward blue dot. IME blue dot is THE powder for 41 mag if accuracy is your goal.

If you're not concened with all-out velocity max effort type stuff, and don't mind paying a little more for powder, N110 is EXELLENT in 41 mag. VERY clean burning, and just as accurate as 2400, blue dot, or 296/H110. I've also found it very temperature stable(unlike blue dot, which can have issues), and it has shown me very low SD and ES numbers over the chrono.

My 2 favorite 41 slugs:

1. A speer 210 HJHP with a heavy roll crimp right over the front edge of the jacket with a heavy charge of blue dot in winchester brass and lit by a federal large pistol primer.

2. A kieth type semi-wadcutter that drops out of my moulds at 230 grains, in winchester brass, with a heavy charge of 2400 or 296, lit by a federal large magnum primer if I'm wanting an all-out load.

I would use a lot more N110, but it's just too spendy for me to load bulk ammo with. And to really appreciate how clean it is jacketed slugs are required. I load on roughly a 10:1 ratio of lead vs. jacketed.

October 11, 2006, 01:44 PM
I haven't chronographed the loads from the rifle. They were around 900fps from a six-inch M57.

I should get a chrono up and running, but other things have come first.

October 11, 2006, 07:12 PM
blue dot is THE powder for 41 mag if accuracy is your goal

Haven't found that to be the case. It's not bad, but it's not as consistant.
Nothing quantifiable, but it seems like I have more bad days when I bring blue dot to the range, in any caliber except 10mm.
Then again, I like it HOT!

October 11, 2006, 09:18 PM
Lots of good info. Thank-You.

I wanted to load with Herco, thinking since it's a slower powder that I might get a little more benefit out of the longer rifle barrels than the 4 or 6" pistol barrels. Does this seem reasonable?

If there is an advantage to a slower burning powder when the same cartridge is used in both rifle and pistol, How fast burning are Blue Dot, 2400, H110, and N110?


October 12, 2006, 12:54 AM
Relative burning speed would be (fastest to slowest)

Blue Dot

The last three seem to be about the same burning rate, and change places depending on which cartridge and how much pressure is being generated. I prefer Lil' Gun for my full power 41 Magnum loads as H110/W296 has a recommendation for not going below 3% of maximum pressure and N110 is harder to find locally. The other powders which work well for full power loads are AA #9, IMR4227 & H4227. AA #9 is a little slower than 2400 and gets a little flaky at full pressure, a little more powder giving a lot more pressure. The 4227's are the slowest burning, actually a little too slow and won't deliver as much velocity as the N110, W296/H110 and Lil' Gun.

Ben Shepherd
October 12, 2006, 09:25 AM

I'm just the oppisite, blue dot seems the most accurate in all my 41's. That's why I put up with the temperature sensitivity. It's also been the powder that gives me the lowest velocity variation in shot strings.
'Lil gun runs real fast, but it's giving me more deviation shot to shot than I like.

But hey, that's why we load, right? Find the best for our particular gun.:D


October 12, 2006, 10:06 AM
I load the 210 gr. JHP (XTP in my case) over 22.5 gr. Lil'Gun. Safe in MY gun. This is a MAGNUM load and produces 1800+ fps in a 16" barrel.

October 12, 2006, 10:07 AM
Ben, ACP230, CAZ223, CMcDermott:

Thank-You all for the input. This thread has already given me insight that would have taken a long time to learn on my own. I will put any and all personal preferences to good use and find something that will work for me. I really appreciate the varied responses.

Most of the handloaders I know used Unique in 357 pistols, and I chanced upon a pound of Herco and it grouped so much better I havn't tried anything else. It doesn't seem to do so in the S&W .41s though.


Ben Shepherd
October 12, 2006, 10:16 AM
Joeoim, are you using a firm crimp with your herco loads?

October 12, 2006, 10:41 AM

I do. Infact I've always thought I didn't need it quite that firm


October 12, 2006, 11:12 AM
.41 mag likes a firm roll crimp, it makes all those slow powders a bit more consistant.
The slower the powder, the more need for crimp.
H110/Win296 is for advanced users and is NOT for plinking.
If you shoot at all in the winter, I'd avoid blue dot, the only squib I ever had was with a compressed load of blue dot, a standard primer, and I was shooting in horrible conditions, well below freezing. It would have ignited fine with a magnum primer, in fact I use magnum primers with blue dot now. But I have seen some pretty wierd stuff from blue dot below freezing.
H110/Win 296 definately require mag primers.
I have never used lil gun, so you're on your own there.
Most of the powders listed are very fine ball powders, and run through powder measures very consistantly, except blue dot, which is coarse flake.
It meters OK, but definately not quite as well as the others.

October 13, 2006, 09:26 AM
I do shoot a lot in the winter so blue dots out, I don't want to risk any inconsistancy's. Can you tell me more about H110/Win296? Why do you consider it for advanced use?
From the info here H110/Win296 or Lill gun seem to be where I need to start with and I'm unfamiliar with all.


Ben Shepherd
October 13, 2006, 09:57 AM
H110/296 is for *advanced* use becuase of it's unforgiving nature. You just don't have the luxury of a wide charge range. You pretty much have to run it at all out pressures for it to remain happy.

As long as you keep that in mind it works just fine. There are 2 things I consider mandatory with either of these powders:

1. Firm to heavy crimp.
2. Magnum primer.

If you're just starting out, and shoot in a wide range of temperatures I think you should really heavily consider 2400. It can be loaded from fairly light loads clear up to 95% of what 296/H110 can do. Where as 296/H110 is a full-horse only proposition. Also 2400 is a fairly forgiving powder, it doesn't seem to go from safe to *OOPS* in a .2 grain difference. It can be slightly sooty at lower pressures, but nothing a rag won't wipe right off. Accuracy is also very good IME. I have several 2400 loads that stay under 1" at 25 yards in my redhawks.

Where you are shooting in cold temperatures I also suggest developing all your 2400 loads with magnum primers.

You do have a chrono, right?

October 13, 2006, 05:08 PM
Agreed. Ben has done his homework.

Ben Shepherd
October 13, 2006, 05:41 PM
One other strong reccomendation from A LOT of personal experience:

AVOID remington brass like the plague in this caliber. The stuff is JUNK.:banghead:

Use starline, federal or winchester brass. You'll be much happier, and avoid a lot of trouble. Trust me.

October 13, 2006, 06:23 PM
*scratches head*
I have 300 or so REM cases I've loaded way too many times with no problems.
They have been annealed once. Lost/damaged 80 or so, still haven't seen any splits.
They all weigh almost exactly the same.
I loaded those 300 pieces of brass from '95 until '03 with no problems.
I shot at very least 50 rounds a week. Yeah, that brass got used a LOT.
I have since bought 1000 or so starline, and have retired my REM brass.
This was a long time ago, rem quality may have changed, but in my mind my REM brass served me well.
I still second the starline recommendation, since it is the best brass for the money.
Now, PMC brass is junk......

Ben Shepherd
October 13, 2006, 06:44 PM

I had so much trouble with remington pistol brass in 357, 41, AND 44 that about 2 years ago I threw out about 1500 bucks worth of it. Haven't looked back until my wife bought me a 357 Maximum blackhawk. Remington is the ONLY brass supplier currently.

What do you know? Trouble right out of the gate. Have a thread going on it here and over on TFL. So is fellow forum member Peter M. Eick

If it's worked for you great. As for me, I wouldn't take it if it was given to me NIB. I'd sell it for scrap value.

October 13, 2006, 06:44 PM
I have some Remington that I've reloaded 3 times now and it hasn't caused a problem as yet. I bought 500 rds of Starline a couple months ago so I don't have to use it (rem).

I need to trim this Starline to length yet. What do you guys trim to? I will look tonight and see what I used (100 trimed so far). I checked about a dozen and figured the length as my book didn't give a minium length.


October 13, 2006, 07:33 PM
I have never needed to trim pistol brass, but again, I'm prolly the exception, as I have so much brass in so many calibers that the brass I have now should last me a lifetime.
I now buy it in lots of 1000 at least, and I don't have to bother with it, as I have enough brass in my brass pool as to not place undue stress on it.

The REM brass I got in .41 may have been an exception, as is was prolly produced a long time ago.
I bought remington .41 magnum ammo from a local store, and the boxes were from the same lot, and very dusty when I got them.
This was the source of my brass.
No doubt sitting on the shelf for quite a few years.
I'd go with starline, it sounds like you got it under control.
I have quite a bit of .357 mag remington brass scrounged from UMC ammo, and it's nowhere near as consistant as my .41 mag brass was.
Matter of fact, I no longer buy UMC ammo, as I am scared to death of core/jacket separating in the barrel.
I am friends with a local police instructor/ccw class instructor, and he has shown me numerous examples of UMC .38/.357 ammo shedding it's jacket in the barrel, and the next bullet hits the jacket, and................
I have a case of magtech ammo left, after that I don't know where to get factory .357 ammo.
I had a source of new magtech ammo cheaper than I could load it, but my source dried up.....
I may have to load it. *sigh*
I really didn't want to have to buy starline brass in .357 mag, but it looks like the wind is blowing that way.

October 13, 2006, 09:35 PM
I have always trimmed so I could get a consistant crimp.

I see I have trimed all my Remington, Winchester, and Federal brass to 1.27 and my manual shows a case length of 1.29. I have trimmed 350 of the mixed brass and 100 of the new starline to this length. I get a case now and then that the trimmer just touches without removing anything.

I've reloaded thousands of 38s and 357s (since 1984) so I haven't bought but a few boxes, and never UMC, so thanks for that info on it. I'll steer clear of it. You never know when you'll be away from home and have to hunt some up.

Check Midway. They have Starline in 357, both nickel and brass, and Winchester in their October flyer.

Sorry Ben, I reread your post and see you were looking for 357 MAXIMUM.

Ben Shepherd
October 14, 2006, 02:12 PM

After mulling it over for the last few days: I've had similar experience. I had some older(early 80's) 357mag remington nickled brass given to me(no idea how many times it was loaded previously) that I loaded over a dozen times before the plating started to flake. But ALL the remington brass I bought(1992 and later) gave me trouble.

Just started in on the 357 maximum stuff a couple months ago and *poof* trouble again.

In the thousands of pieces of winchester pistol brass I've bought, I had exactly 1 bad case out of the package. It was a 44 mag with a case head that wasn't fully formed.

October 14, 2006, 09:13 PM
I have since just bought new starline instead of scrounging, or buying ammo to get brass (Except for 9mm, and for a time, 357SIG.).
In auto calibers, winchester (PreS&B) is now my first choice.
I use win brass, sorted by headstamp exclusively in 9mm and .40, and have a few thousand in 357SIG before I got 5000+ starline cases cheap, for no other reason than to have them.
9mm and .40 are everywhere, I refuse to buy starline brass in either of those calibers when you can literally buy WIN white box loaded 9mm ammo for the price of starline brass.
Or pick it up by the pound at the local range.
357SIG is different in my area, for some reason.
WIN is the only scrounged brass I trust in the sig, I've had real bad luck with the other brands.
With 9 and .40 it's just more of a consistancy thing.

October 15, 2006, 07:49 AM
Man, that's a bad deal.
Funny they should make .414 SM, .445 SM, 360DW, and 10mm mag, but not .357 R-max.
Maybe call them and ask why?
In my mind .414 is WAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYYY more obscure than .357 R-max.
I would have just reamed a cylinder out to .356GNR, and bought new dies, but that's just me....

October 15, 2006, 06:51 PM
I had a pound of Lill'Gun picked up so any experiences anyone has had with Lill'Gun and 210 gr XTP or Remington SJSP would be greatly appreciated. I lean a little more to the accuracy than the heavy.

I don't have a chrono so I find a load that my gun likes either within published limits.

By the way what are you guys crimping with? I've always just used the RCBS.


Ben Shepherd
October 16, 2006, 10:15 AM
Redding *profile crimp* die. Tried the lee*factory crimp* as well. In straightwall ammo that spaces off the rim and not the mouth, the redding die has been proven the winner easily.

It starts with a taper crimp, then finishes with a very nice roll crimp.

HIGHLY RECCOMEND IT. It cost as much as my whole carbide RCBS die set, but it was money well spent.

October 16, 2006, 04:16 PM
I have not had any trouble with any of my .357 Maximum brass of varying vintage. I have about 800 pieces. I've yet to throw one out because of the brass but I have trashed a couple because I did things to them such as necking to .221 fireball shape without annealing (got a few wrinkles). :rolleyes:

October 16, 2006, 07:59 PM
While I love redding dies, and think they are the best dies out there-bar none, I don't think they are necessary for the .41 magnum. Let me explain.
The two things redding has improved on are bullet seating and crimping.
Seating: the competition seater is head and shoulders above the rest in concentric seating. However, the bullet will be going through a forcing cone on a revolver, and the forcing cone 're-aligns' the bullet to the bore, making the comp seater un-necessary. Save it for small auto calibers.
Profile crimp dies: Upon examination, these are the most precise tools to apply crimp I have ever seen.
However, I haven't seen any benefit from using them, since I have been crimping 'enough' for the powder I'm using.
Almost any crimp die will do the job, specialty tools aren't necessary.
Save the specialty tools for .40 and 357SIG.
On the flipside, the profile crimp dies run between 15 and 20 bucks and can't really hurt anything. It's your money.
Competition seater dies run between 55 and 75 bucks. I have several.

October 16, 2006, 09:29 PM
I noticed these RCBS carbide dies don't seem to be the same quality they were when I last bought any. That was when they passed that brady bill in "93" I think. I will mull this over and may invest in a Reddind crimp die later.

Caz223 I suspect you hunt with the .41 mag. What experences have you had with the Hornady XTP. and SJFP in 210 gr and less. I loaded a bunch of 38s with XTP when they first came out and was dissappointed in them. I was loading +P and didn't think at the time that they had enough velocity to open right. Anyway I didn't buy any more. I have been useing them in this 41 thinking they will do better.

Ben, have you hunted with your .41?


October 17, 2006, 02:48 AM
I haven't used the .41 for hunting, but I would think it's up to the task.
The XTPs are excellent game bullets, they penetrate, hold together, open up a little, and exit, where possible.
I have used them on furry critters, (But not game animals.) and their performance is best at 1350+, as you would expect.
The most important part is accuracy, and they have demonstrated to me that they are up to the task, if you are.
I'd use them for woods cruising without reservations.
Remingtons haven't impressed me, for some reason. Maybe they should. Dunno.
All I know is I shot remington factory loads, and I immediately shot better after I started handloading (Using XTPs, noslers, and sierras.)
Man, I just love .41 mag. Maybe it's what it does to a 'swinger' target.
Be careful, hit the swinger in the wrong spot, and you'll be buying a new one.....

Ben Shepherd
October 17, 2006, 09:50 AM
Joeoim: Haven't harvested anything yet(big game wise) with my 41's. But gonna try again this weekend(Utah deer hunt). Have done several informal non scientific penetration/velocity tests with the 210 XTP. Good bullet in my opinion. In fact if they'd make it in a 230 grain version for 41, I'd say perfect hunting bullet.

As already noted for the XTPs, preformance is best above 1350, in fact that seems to be the magic speed as far as when they start mushrooming consistently. Hornady says IIRC that they work clear down at 1,000. While I have no doubt they have enough energy/penetration at that speed, they won't open up under less than ideal conditions when going that slow. On the upper end? I've found that regardless of caliber or weight about 1700 they start coming apart. The exception being the 125 grain 357XTP. It blows up at 1500. The rest I've played with have enough mass to hold together to either 1700 or as fast as my guns will safely go. Run them between those 2 velocities(1350ish and 1700), and you have an excellent hunting bullet. Good slug to develop a load that will get used in your 6" wheelgun or your 20" barreled levergun interchangebly.

With the profile crimps *dual crimp?* action I find that the addition of that first stage taper crimp lets me use slightly less roll crimp to achieve the correct amount of bullet pull for proper powder ignition. This gives me longer case life by an average of 5 or 6 more reloads before the case mouths split.

Given the current price of brass I consider those dies free money.

October 17, 2006, 12:25 PM
I have yet to have to trim my .41 cases, or have any splits.
This is after some high mileage, so I'd say my case life isn't too bad.
Accuracy isn't bad, either.
I'm right where I need to be without the profile crimp dies.
Nothing against any die maker, but did you know that lee dies do the same thing??
I don't think that any special equipment or any 'tricks' are needed to load .41 mag, just common sense, and good components. Sort of a 'back to the basics' approach.
That's one of the reasons I like the round so much.
By talking to ya, it sure sounds like we got a lot more in common than not, and I wish you well in your hunt. Let me know if you have any luck, maybe some pics?

October 17, 2006, 02:39 PM
Caz223 & Ben
Thanks for the enlightenment and personal experience. I am intrigued with the Redding *profile crimp* die. Although it may be more sophisticated than I need at the moment I may find I can benefit from it also.

Caz don't you get a tighter crimp on some cases since you don't trim?

I've used the Remington bullets, 158gr SJHP & JSP in my 38s and 357s with good results but I'm thinking the XTP may serve me better in the .41 if I can get it to open up a little. My experience has been that a hollow point does a "little" better job killing than a soft point in a head shot, but I want something that will break bone if I can't get a good head shot or shoot in self defense. The Federal 210gr Power Shock @ 1300 fps/muzzle have considerable more recoil than my 210 XTP loaded to published max out of my 4" S&W. I don't crave recoil, and I don't download for plinking. I like to have one load. I may have to compromise with the XTP, or stay with a jacketed flat point.

Ben, with any luck maybe you can give us some more performance reports on the XTP next week. Looks like you will need to take your wool and rubber clothing.

I loaded 100 with 21.0gr lillgun and 100 with 21.5 lillgun. 210gr XTP. starline brass, cci 350 magnum primers. 21.9 is supposed to give 1377 fps, according to I may load a few to that to see how they expand.

I have a couple days off so will let you know how they shoot.


October 17, 2006, 06:53 PM
AA#7, Blue Dot, H-110, W-296, 2400, N110, L'il Gun, any of these will work well with one load or another, but the best powder I've used for .41 Magnum is AA#9. It will push the 170s as fast or faster than anything and do it with exceptional accuracy. With 210/220 gr. Jacketed bullets, accuracy can be phenominal.;)

41 Redhawk
October 18, 2006, 03:25 PM
CZ57 beat me to it. I have found AA#9 to be the best powder going in my 41. I use 18grs with Hornaday's 210 gr XTP and a 230gr Keith cast bullet. works great for me!

Ben Shepherd
October 18, 2006, 05:26 PM
41Redhawk, any chrono data to share? Very curious.

I know how much blue dot and 2400 it takes to push that slug to 1500 in my redhawks.

So, I'm wondering how fast your load runs?

41 Redhawk
October 18, 2006, 09:30 PM

The 230 gr cast goes 1410fps with 18grs of #9. With 2400, 19grs gives me 1417fps. 16grs of blue dot gives me 1421fps.

The 210XTP goes 1405 with 18grs of #9. With blue dot 16grs gives me about the same speed.

According to my manuals, both those blue dot loads are a bit over max.

In my Redhawk #9 gives me better groups both with a 5.5" I used to own and the 7.5" I now own.

October 19, 2006, 12:12 AM

I'm curious if you use a carbine, or how these would chrono out of a 16.5 or 20" barrel?


Ben Shepherd
October 19, 2006, 10:07 AM
Joeoim: As a *general* rule an inch of barrel is worth about 50 fps. I've found this to be the case with my 357 and 44 winchester 94's. Even factoring in no cylinder gap, the individual barrels can make quite a difference.

But like I said *generally* an inch equals 50 fps. So if 6" gives you 1400, then a 20" should be close to 2100.

If you're wondering:

Yes, a hot 44 out of a rifle is a whole different animal than when it's launched out of a 6" tube.

I have a 24" barreled 357 rifle. It has been safely loaded with some 158 grain loads that exceed factory 150 grain 30-30 loads in velocity and energy. Still doesn't shoot as flat as the 30-30 due to the slugs poor B.C. But it does indeed have more velocity and energy than some factory 30-30 rounds.:what: Not bad for a little 'ol pistol round, eh?

41 Redhawk- Thanks for the numbers.

41 Redhawk
October 19, 2006, 01:52 PM
I don't have a carbine so i don't have any numbers. The barrel on my current Redhawk is 7.5". I never had the 5.5 and the 7.5 out on the same day shooting that same loads but my notes seem to indicate the actually shot everything at about the same speed.

Ben, how do those numbers compare with what you get?

Ben Shepherd
October 19, 2006, 02:25 PM
All my current 41 hawks are 7.5". So no idea in diff between barrel length in this caliber. BUT:

In both 357 and 44 magnum I've run everything from 3" to 10.5" pistols, and 16-24" rifles, and the above mentioned 50ft/inch rule seems to hold true(roughly). Seeing how the 41 uses the same or similar powders, I can't see it being any different.

Want to know what gun is on my short list? Yep, a marlin 41mag levergun. Have 357 and 44 covered with win 94's, so I need a 41 to balance things out. Used to have access to one, then it got sold, I didn't buy it because I kept hoping winchester would do 41 in the model 94.:banghead: Oh well- shoulda, woulda, coulda I guess.

October 29, 2006, 01:28 AM
Thanks for all the numbers Guys.

I have a 1894 SS LTD41 It has a 16" barrel and is a handy little thing. Heavy for it's size, Seems to shoot pretty good. I have about 80 rds through it. Havn't killed anything with it yet.

Also have an 1894 FG with a 20" barrel and a very nice checkered stock. It feels real good and although the other is 1 of only 251 made, I would have to keep the FG if I could only keep one. It seems to shoot real good also but I havn't shot it enough to give a good opinion. It Just feels better of the two.

Good luck getting one. The price doesn't ever seem to go down and there seems to be quite a demand right now.

I looked for quite a while and wound up paying $650 for the LTD, and $411 for the FG (which I thought was a good price). There seems to be some FGs available now.

I know you would like to have a winchester but you could get a lot of use out of the Marlin while you were waiting for one.


November 3, 2006, 11:53 AM
New to the forum.

You hear very little of this fine caliber but when you get into a group of people who know this round you find a group that is very serious about there admiration and knowledge for it.

I have a S&W 57, with the 8 3/8" barrel and have found this revolver to be a very accurate. I used to load the Keith SWC until I could not longer find them with great results. At 25yds it was not uncommon to shoot sub 1 inch groups from the bags.

I have not reloaded for it in a number of years, I bought a Kimber what can I say. So I don't remember the load data of the top of my head, I think it was 16g of bluedot.

I took a javalina at about 60ys using the truck as my rest and it crushed both shoulders and really slammed the java, I think it went two feet before it expired. I am thinking of using on deer this year, if I do I need to get into the range very soon with it.


November 3, 2006, 08:24 PM
Thanks for shareing Carlos.

Let me know what you are useing and the results when you do go.


November 14, 2006, 11:41 PM
Finally found my data for the 41mag.

Blue dot 14.1g
bullet: Keith 220g
OAL: 1.70
Trim: 1.285

1.35" group 25yrds 6 shot group from the bags.

How did I so on Friday, well I need to shot the 41 a lot more to get my groups down. 25yrs inside of 4 inches:uhoh: . Not good but I have not shot this gun in lover 4yrs.

March 31, 2007, 02:21 AM
For accuracy with 210 grain bullets, I'd recommend 2400. The 17.5 grain load is VERY accurate, and will prolly be about the middle of what you could expect as far as recoil.

Ditto this. I've been doing some test loads with my OM Blackhawk and this load is the best so far with 210 grain Horn. XTP's. I haven't chrono'd them yet, but I can write letters at ten yards easily.

March 31, 2007, 02:41 AM

I also have the 1894 SS LTD41 with 16" barrel. I've also got the other three calibers with the same serial number, for a four gun set. I won't shoot mine, since I've got two other Marlin 1894's in .41 Magnum, both of which are very accurate. Since there were only 251 of the special edition Marlins made in each caliber, it's nice to know someone has one that they will shoot.


March 31, 2007, 08:11 PM
Wow, this thread is still around?

March 31, 2007, 08:12 PM
So is the .41, amazingly :D

March 31, 2007, 08:17 PM
So is the .41, amazingly
You're fast on the draw today.
I've had soo many people tell me the .41 mag and 10mm have ceased production, and are gone forever.
I smile, and ask them what kind of 9mm they shoot.

March 31, 2007, 10:07 PM
They tell me the same thing about my 357 Sig, along with my .41, which was my duty weapon for about 15 years, and my 10mm's. I've got five of the 10's, and still even shoot my .41AE on occasion.

I must have a thing about strange calibers, since the .41 is one of my favorites, followed by the 10mm and 357 Sig. I also shoot 9x21 and 9x23, and I'm working on a 9x25 Dillon.


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