Need help with Mauser questions


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rock jock
May 15, 2003, 06:32 PM
A local guy has one for $125. I have not seen it yet. What determines value for these fine old rifles? What should I look for, i.e., what are the common problems? What is a good price?

TIA

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Chipperman
May 15, 2003, 06:51 PM
For starters, you need to know what flavor it is. Yugo, Turk, German, etc.

rock jock
May 15, 2003, 07:01 PM
Oops! It is a Swede.

Cosmoline
May 15, 2003, 09:51 PM
Here are some of the basic methods to use:

--check the crown and see if the lands are intact out the end, and make sure there aren't any major scratches on it.

--Check for pitting, esp. out near the crown

--Check to see what the crest is, or if there is a crest. This is the basic way collectors tell one Mauser from another.

--Make sure it hasn't been cut up. An intact Mauser should have a full stock and a tangent rear sight. Any receiver sights, scope mounts, etc. are typically after-market and decrease the value unless done very expertly. Front sights vary from rifle to rifle, but no military Mauser is going to have a complex or delicate bead sight for example.

If this is an intact Swede in good condition, I'd say that's a great price.

Sylvilagus Aquaticus
May 16, 2003, 03:35 AM
Ditto what Cosmoline said. Most any Swede close to $100 is a deal if it's in any kind of shape. Which model is it? M96, the long infantry rifle; M38 the short rifle with a straight or turned down bolt handle, or a (gasp!) M94 carbine with the 17 inch barrel?

Any one is great if the barrel and chamber is in good shape.

I've got a Mauser/Oberndorf and a Carl Gustavstadt 96 and 94, respectively as well as the questionable KBI/Kimber 'sporter' models. My milsurp Swedes are wonderful; the KBI is nice enough, but not my favorite.
I paid $75 for the M96 about 17 years ago, the M94 was a bonus (long story- found it in a trunk). IIRC, I paid about $135 for the KBI and for that much, it struck my interest and I bought it.



Regards,
Rabbit.

OEF_VET
May 16, 2003, 04:12 AM
I picked up a M38 with an after market, hand made wood stock at a pawn shop for $50. I think the guy let me have it so cheap because I had just returned from Afghanistan a week prior. The stock isn't beautiful, but sufficient, and whoever did it went to the trouble of putting the disk back on it.

cracked butt
May 16, 2003, 10:33 AM
Check the serial numbers on the rifle, just about every part on a swedish mauser is serialed, except the screws. The ones that are the most important are the numbers on the receiver and bolt body- they should match, if a rifle was rearsenalled and given a new bolt at a Swedish arsenal, the bolt would be stamped or restamped to match the receiver. If they match, its very unlikely that you will have excessive headspace, unless some civillian did a poor job of changing a barrel afterward. Pull the bolt and look down the bore- it should be shiny with crisp rifling, if not, run a few patches down the barrel and check again. If it still looks dark, I would pass it up, the rifle has been abused or neglected, two things the Swedish never did with their rifles.
If it has a stock disk, there should be a little triangle stamped over certain numbers indicating bore condition and diameter. In the big pie slice, a marking of 9,0, or 1 would be desirable, in the small pie slice no marking or a marking of 1 wouild be best. Its nice to have a disk marked as such, though I wouldn't put too much thought into it as the disk might have been last makred 50 years ago and alot could have happened since then, or someone might have unscrupulously changed the disk to make it look like a more desirable rifle.

$125 is a pretty good price for a rifle in good condition with non-matching serial numbers, its a steal for a rifle in good condition with all matching numbers.

rock jock
May 16, 2003, 12:21 PM
Unfortunately, the guy pulled his ad so I guess the gun has been sold. I appreciate the info, though.

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