[Davo]

I have the need for a decent full sized knife that may be used for survival purposes, and will be taken out backpacking. I dont want to spend a fortune while Im still really learning to "use" a survival knife. Simplicity is good, sturdyness is good too. Im open to different blade shapes, lengths, materials etc.

[longwatch]

For simplicity and economy how about the Air Force Survival knife or a KA-BAR.

[Davo]

Ive always liked the kabar. Does the USAF knife come with synthetic handle/sheath? I could see leather holding moisture and rusting.

[longwatch]

The M6s still have leather handles but they only cost $30. Another option might be the USN dive knife, it has roughly the same features but has synthetic handles. Its around $53.

http://www.armynavysales.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=01&Product_Code=MA163&Category_Code=KNF

[Brian Williams]

http://www.ontarioknife.com/images/oldhickory/726_hhboningknife.jpg
An Old Hickory 6" Boning Knife, about $10 at a good food store. It is one that I grab for camping and canoeing. You can find a good sheath just about anywhere.

[Boats]

What you might find as you learn to use a "full-size" survival knife, is that such a tool is vastly overrated on the internet.

There is little that amuses me more than when I see someone in the back country lugging a 10" chopper that is made out of the flavor of the month steel and micarta, and sometimes sports a camo-painted blade. Thankfully, these sightings are just above Sasquatch level. It's like seeing someone carrying a cast iron stove "just in case."

I have personally found that carrying any knife that is over 4.5-5 inches in blade length is just lugging more weight for no apparent return in capability.

What if I have to chop? Well, it is exceedingly unlikely that one will have to make an improvised shelter via chopping up the wilderness, but even if one does find the need for such a shelter, a decent folding saw is going to be lighter, faster, more precise, and a ton cheaper than the superknife.

From fuzzing sticks, to cleaning fish, to making a digging stick, or a frog gig, a trap, on and on, a handy knife that is sharp and easy to resharpen is going to beat the daylights out of a quasi-machete or seven inch combat knife.

This continent was opened up by mountain men using carbon steel trade knives that were rarely larger than six inches in blade length.

For centuries, 2.5-4 inch thin bladed puukkos with generous handles kept men in Scandinavia alive in one of the most unforgiving climates on earth.

There isn't a $40 "full size survival knife" out there that would be my first choice for a backpacking blade.

http://www.ragweedforge.com/SwedishKnifeCatalog.html

About any blade on the above page would fill the need for a serious survival knife when coupled with a garden variety folding saw. If you trust yourself, get one without a guard, if you don't, get one with a guard.

Just don't get sucked into the "fact" that you "need" a "big" knife in the woods. If you need a weapon, make a fire hardened spear. If you need a building tool, carry a small axe or a folding saw. If you need a bushcrafting knife, carry one, not a machete or a man-killer.

[Fosbery]

Fallkniven F1 is a superb survival knife (a proper one not these "RAMBO SPECIAL FORCES SAS KNIFE 12" INCHES SAW BOWIE BLOOD GROOVE" ones you get on eBay). I'd trust my life to it.

[gdog]

I have a Ka-Bar I really like. It is styled after the USMC knife, but has a short area of the blade that is serrated. Has plastic of some sort for the handle and a Kydex sheath.

[Davo]

Boats I agree with much of what you said. I think larger knives are over rated. Weight will be an issue too, I use a swiss army knife, or a camillus military pocket knife right now, and am happy-but I think a fixed blade is good too. Ive never had the need to saw anything, but I carry a wire saw for that reason in my emergency kit (never used the saw though). Ive also wondered about those lightweight hatchets I see around.

[Thefabulousfink]

I have done a lot of camping, backpacking, Boy Scouts, and some mountain climbing. I usually bring two knives with me when I go camping, a small folder and a larger fixed blade. The folder I use for small task around the camp from cutting twine to cutting steak. The fixed blade is my work horse.

The important features of a survival knife are edge retention, blade strenght, and quality. Those Rambo knives that have the compass, saw, fish hooks, and store it all in the handle are crap. Most of the equipment that comes with them is of poor quality and the hollow handle make the knife weak. Better to carry a proper knife and a proper compass and any other gear you might need.

There are lots of good fixed blades out there, Ka-bar and Buck are two good choices. Serrations are personal choice, I don't like them and find that a properly sharpened blade will do anything that a serrated blade will.

Now lets talk about use: The 2 main uses I have for my knife are choping wood and cleaning game (there are other uses but they fall under general cutting). Is your use going to favor one or the other? If you are going to be cleaning a lot of game you might consider a knife with a gut-hook. If you are more concerned with cutting wood you will want strenght and weight (although I have seen some one split 6" logs with buck knife). Keep in mind that a knife is not an ax or a saw but can be used to get by in a pinch.

If you want something that can make short of anything from toothpick to tree trunks, this is what I use:
http://www.atlantacutlery.com/webstore/eCat/swords_and_knives/knives_of_the_world/eastern/genuine_gurkha_kukri.aspx
Under $40, sharp as a knife, sturdy as an ax, and scary as the devil.:evil:
I even used a home blueing kit to blue the steel and now it looks wicked, it is the ultimate camper's pal.

[Davo]

If anything it will be used for light chopping, possibly in making a shelter, and for defense(seriously an issue for me in certain places). I would not waste energy by cutting wood for an emergency fire. I like the kukri design but its too heavy for the backwoods, seems like a perfect choice for car camping.
I hunt/fish so infrequently that a sharp pocketknife would do fine for me in that situation.
This one looks ok...
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/cb/cb.asp?a=78455&kwtid=200417

this too...http://www.sportsmansguide.com/cb/cb.asp?a=299466

http://cgi.ebay.com/FROSTS-MORA-TRADESMAN-HIGH-CARBON-KNIFE-SWEDEN-HIKING_W0QQitemZ170038233501QQihZ007QQcategoryZ42576QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem

[hso]

Avoid the Rambozo knives and stick with what hunters and backwoodsmen have actually survived with instead of the "survival" knives that copy writers "survive" with. A multiblade pocket knife, a simple 4" fixed blade and a light axe and you can do anything you ever need to do in the woods. Use a small saw and you can drop the axe.

The Mora is a good choice. The Blackie Collins is just silly as a survival knife, unless you're wearing flippers and got a babe in one hand and a martini (shaken not stirred) in the other.

There are great knives in the thread on "Old Shool Knives".

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b52/Gussick/blades.jpg

[pete f]

I agree with all the above, I have become a convert to the Bark River knives. I carry a mini canadian and a clip point skinner, which is actually a little big for what I want at 4.25 blade, 8 inch overall, but it is tough as nails and works hard, The mini canadian is only six inches overall with a willow leaf blade about 2 inches long. that is my camp knife. the larger is just the back up. made in A2 steel, they keep sharp for an amazing long time.

If you want a "survival knife" then the Kabar is a great tool, they also make them in the updated line for about $45 dollars with rubber handles.

The only hollow handle survival knife I would trust is the Chris Reeves series. cut out of one chunk of A2, they are supremely tough and useful but do cost close to 300 bucks.

[Boom-stick]

(a proper one not these "RAMBO SPECIAL FORCES SAS KNIFE 12" INCHES SAW BOWIE BLOOD GROOVE" ones you get on eBay).


But everyone NEEDS a 12" Rambo, SF, cold-killer, uber-tac, ultra-stealth killing weapon.





How else can you defend an entire planet from multi-jawed xenomorphes just on your little loneless?


:rolleyes:


Get a SAK or a LM wave and be done with it.

My current outdoor combo is a doug ritter Pocket Survival Pak, a Wave and a cold steel bird and trout knife with a paracord wrapped handle.

[Joe Demko]

Second the Old Hickory line, but I prefer the 6 inch butcher knife. If you are the creative sort, you can modify the handle a bit with a rasp and sandpaper. Pretty simple to make your own sheath too.

[JShirley]

I always liked the Old Hickory butcher knife.

I'm going to disagree with many here, and say that a kukri makes a good outdoors knife. Maybe it's a strange concept, but the kukri has been around for at least 1,000 years, and probably longer...

And there is a reason this tool has persisted in usage in a a hostile environment in a time before many of the gadgets and gear we have today. Simply, the kukri works. A kukri traditionally comes with a chakma and karda. The chakma is a steel to remove nicks from the blade, and the karda is a small utility knife.

Are there other "acceptable" outdoors knives? Sure. Certainly. It's just not terribly thoughtful to discount everything that's different from your current modus operandi. Who knows- you could change.

Look at the second knife from the left here (http://www.himalayan-imports.com/uncle/10-12-06%20001.jpg). This is a Himalayan Imports Chitlangi. It is 18" OAL, and 23 ounces. I carried an identical kukuri when I was a light infantryman at Fort Lewis, and believe me, weight was at a premium! I carried it instead of a heavier E-tool, and used it to cut lanes for our sight poles (11C- you just THINK you have a heavy pack!). It's light enough not to overly inconvenience, and I used it to cut brush and trees up to 6" in diameter (which was a stretch) when I came back to GA and lived in the woods for three months. The only real problem is, that it's outside your price, at $90.

John

[22-rimfire]

Personally I think a Swiss Army Knife (SAK) would fill the bill. Perhaps something like the Trekker. You would want one of the large ones.

A SOG Seal Pup Elite sold for about $50 on ebay in the last few days. It usually runs about $70ish. It would fill the bill nicely for a medium length fixed blade. Get the nylon sheath and slide a SAK into the little pouch.

[Fosbery]

Kukris are great but I prefer cutlass machetes or parangs for heavy chopping tasks and a smaller knife like a Fallkniven or Woodlore for finer work. Nothing wrong with a Kukri, I just think there's other stuff that works better.

[ID_shooting]

I carry one of these in my pack:

http://www.glock.com/knives.htm

Good strudy knife, works real well for seperating breast plates on deer and elk. For most situations a good pocket knife will be enough but there are times when you need somthing more solid.

[joab]

I have a few big knives
A SilverStag Bowie, couple of Tomahawk "survivals/mil specs" and some others that are also in the box at the back of the closet
I like gadgety things and loved the Rambo series, but almost always when I am gearing up for a camping trip, or whatever, I take my old USA made Schrade Sharpfinger. I don't know if the new ones are any better or worse than the old but the price is about the same $20.
I also have one in each vehicle and BOB

I also carry a good, short sawback machette , being in Florida I may need that more than some and it also acts as an ax and clips to the outside of my pack

[Third_Rail]

FWIW, the knife John is talking about is $125 now and worth every single penny.

[Soap]

Cold Steel SRK.

[JShirley]

...unless you're on BladeForums. There's still an unsold one in HI forum for $90. ;)

After I carried on field exercises, then cut brush and small trees for many hours, it became glued to another moderator's effective hands. :D

[Third_Rail]

I'm confused. The $125 is to order one directly, where the $90 is from someone selling it, or is that from the company?

[JShirley]

Think of it as a sale. At least several times a week, knives with either small defects, or rare runs that aren't usually carried, or just bargains to stir up business or because of a holiday, are offered.

How to order (http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198282) one of these specials...(Paypal is usually used, now.)
One such thread (http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=428826).

[Dave Markowitz]

For a larger knife look at the Becker Combat-Utility 7. Beats the pants off a K-Bar or USAF Survival Knife, IMHO.

For a smaller knife, the Swedish Mora knives cannot be beat, and the aforementioned Ragweed Forge is a good source.

[Joe Talmadge]

There are a lot of very experienced people taking very different knives into the bush. Some of the difference can be explained by differences in terrain -- there are differences in what you need between a northern pine forest, a desert, a rainforest, etc. But even that doesn't explain everything. You can find two experts going into the same terrain, one with a 4" fixed blade and one with a hatchet or big bowie, and both have their points.

That said, if you're a beginner, I'd suggest starting with a 4"-ish fixed blade. It will handle all your small jobs (food prep, whittling, etc) more easily than a big knife. And, to the extent you need to do bigger work, for example building a shelter or splitting wood, if you learn how to baton and use wedges, the little knife can handle that, also, provided it's got good quality.

Once you get the basic idea, then by all means branch out and start looking at big bowies, kukris, and hatchets. But a small knife is all you need to start out with to develop your skills at first. In addition, you might find that once you're good with the little knife, you don't even want to bother with lugging around a bigger knife. Just don't decide beforehand, there are plenty of situations for which a big knife works better and I'd rather have one. I'm just proposing you start small and concentrate on fundamental skills, then go from there.

For me personally, the worst-of-all-worlds is the 6"-ish sharpened prybars like the SRK. Doesn't chop like a big blade, more awkward to use than a small blade, etc. Even here, there is room for disagreement and lots of people like this class of blade, for me it just doesn't work.

The Fallkniven F-1, BRKT Fox River, etc. are high quality examples of the type of small knife I'd favor. I'd be looking at the Moras and the like for less-expensive-but-still-quality knives in this class.

[Loyalist Dave]

I carry two. I carry a large Mora knife, carbon steel blade, wood handle, plastic sheath, as a heavy work knife. I get more use out of my Swiss Army Tool, Atlas model. The Swiss Army "tool" is a knife with a blade that locks. The Atlas model has a saw and a pair of pliers, as well as several other small tools. Both knives can be kept extremely sharp. I also carry on treks a small tomahawk, sometimes called a "mouse hawk". There was a reason why they were so popular on the frontier more than two centuries ago, and when I've needed it, it was for chores that no knife could've really done. The Colonial standard was a decent sized butcher knife, and a tomahawk. You should be able to find both for a combined price under $60.00.

LD

[LAK]

I've had medium and larger blades for years and as a solitary tool they are the ideal compromise. The ideal outfit though IMO is a medium sized knife of roughly 4" to 6" with a relatively fine blade paired with a short 12" or 14" machete or ax. Another option or addition is a small folding pruning saw, as is a small pocket knife or SAK. Genuine SAK sawblades cut like blazes for their size.

The nice thing about a machete is that it can be used to cut brush. An ax is a significantly more efficient chopper - machetes tend to "stick" making them potentially more fatiguing.

For an excellent yet cheap basic knife I would consider the Army version by Frosts in Mora, Sweden. I've seen them for under $15 a piece; there is a seller on the evilbay with a couple right now at $10.99 a piece.

------------------------------------

http://ussliberty.org
http://ssunitedstates.org

[22-rimfire]

I'll throw another one into the mix, a 12" Ontario machete. Cheap, but very useful. You can use it for just about any knife-chore if you really want to. A bit clumsy on the detail stuff, so I'll keep a good SAK with me for that and you are probably just at about the $50 price tag for everything.

[Rupestris]

A Green River :
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?products_id=1568

And a small Mora should handle just about anything.

[Zeke/PA]

I would have to go with either a Camilus or K-Bar Marine Corps survivor knife.
However Brian Williams' idea of an Old Hickory knife is a darn good one.
The most used knives in our home kitchen are of course Old Hickory.
Easy to maintain with a ceramic "steel", the downside is that they are not diswasher safe.
Zeke

[vynx]

Check out coldsteels factory seconds - they are sold out now but they gome up every month or so

http://www.coldsteel.com/seconds.html

$49.99 will get you either a recon tanto or an SRk second

[ZeSpectre]

From a younger age I used to carry a Ka-Bar that my uncle gave me.

I still have it but found that for camping/backpacking I really prefer a plain blade (non-serrated) Kershaw Vapor.

I also have a (old) Kershaw Deer Hunter with a pachmyr (spelling?) handle but that handle is getting pretty ratty after almost 15 years so I'm considering either sending it back to Kershaw or just buying a new one.

[50 Freak]

I'd get a Himalayan Imports Khukuri.

[cedjunior]

K-Bar
Ontario
Becker Knife and Tool

[Third_Rail]

John - those deals are HARD to get before others get to them! I'll keep trying, but I'm amazed how fast they go. It's nice to know that they're held in such high regard, I know that whenever I can actually get one I'll be pleased. :)

[The Deer Hunter]

http://www.blade-empire.com/Ka-Bar/USMC_Fighting_Knife-Plain-Brown_Leather_Sheath.shtml

[MutinousDoug]

From the bottom and going clockwise:
Gerber "Pixie". A fish knife for trout or small bass
old PAL knife (I think a Remington make?) Good camp knife; OK fish knife. fragile leather disk handle. used since 1969 or so. Probably last another 20-30years.
Collins Herradura machete with a 12" blade. used mostly as a shovel but good to clear a spot to set up a tent or hammock. Not as good as a shovel for shoveling or as good as an hatchet for chopping, but it does both half a$$ for 18 oz. Looks like the Ontario machete is about the same.
DH Russell Canadan Belt knife. from AG Russell.com. I see it's now $69 so out of your price range. I just buchered 2 goats with it this week without sharpening with other than a steel. A straight blade is better for some cutting jobs but this is good for boning and skinning.
I usually carry any two of these and a medium stock knife when camping or hunting.

[plexreticle]

Get a leatherman or gerber multitool and a locking blade 3-4" folding knife, You can get both for about $50 and these will sever you better than any larger survival type knife.

[12GA00buck]

To survive you need food, shelter and water, this dosent necesarily include a rambo sized "survival knife".

Fire makeing- Hatchet, hands down
Shelter makeing-Hatchet Hands down

Add a drop point skinning knife and a small capeing knife

Trust me, I've spent enough time outside to know what I'm talking about.

If you plan on surviving for long,
cord, metal cup/pot for cooking, boiling to sterilize water
water purification tablets
warm cloths/rain gear, appropiate for location
food and/ or gun
topo map/ compass
matches/lighter, dry tinder, its VERY difficult to make a fire without these
tarp/tent, unless your certain you can create a weather worthy shelter to keep yourself warm and dry with only a hatchet and knife

I peronaly use a gerber hatchet, with capeing knife in the handle. I also have a gerber gater, drop point, half serated. Its made from 154cm steel. Please read these articles before you make your selection: http://www.agrussell.com/knife_information/knife_encyclopedia/articles.html I also recomend a book called "Complete Guide to Hunting knives" It covers axes, saws, knives, field dressing, blade design, and steel choice in great detail and accuracy.
Happy Backpacking

[Eleven Mike]

Davo, I think you're on the right track. The swedish-style knives you linked to should work out alright, but I would suggest moving up to something a little higher in price, and therefore hopefully in quality. Look for a knife with a continuous grind all the way from spine to the edge. This provides a better edge with a blade of the same thickness. Such as the following: http://www.ltspecpro.com/fixed-blades-master-hunter.html A bit expensive and also a bit thick at 3/16, but you get the idea. Stainless is probably going to work better for you, but carbon steels have their good points. If nothing else, you will likely get a better sheath with such a knife, although if it will just be carried in a rucksack, that is not an issue.

The 4-5 inch survival knife IS full-size for its intended use, and is best had without serrations that impair the functionality of the knife. (Unless you're cutting seatbelts every day.) The KABARs and other military knives, in my experience, are poorly designed and made from softer steel. I think you would regret such a purchase.

[dragongoddess]

Getting on eof these for the holidays.

yhst-7333098713883.stores.yahoo.net/garudangkhola.html


It is called the Garud (dragon) Ang Khola. The knife is 19 inchesoverall length. Blade is about 2&1/2 inches wide, 9/16 thick. The knife weighs 2 & 3/4 pounds. Fit and finish excellent. Hardening excellent. Bolster and scabbard chape are silver. Carving is very well done. The wood, I believe, is saatisal. Karda and chakma are exceptional. Scabbard is excellent and is equipped with superfrog.

[Eleven Mike]

Superfrog is soooo freakin' tactical.

[JShirley]

Due to the ornate handle, the Garud is more a display piece than the other HI kukuris...even though the Ang Khola in general is one of the sturdiest knives of its size in the world.

J

[2falable]

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/cb/cb...5&kwtid=200417


Is about the best $10 you could ever spend. If you want a Mora style knife it's a hard critter to beat.

Then again I like my Ka-Bar too. :)

and at the same time... In the woods I can get everything done I need to with a Cold Steel AK-47 folder.

Still and all I will usally take a Mora as well as the AK-47. The Mora has a thinner blade and works much better for cleaning fish and things than the AK folder.

[sonofodin]

Exellent knives. Personally, i say go with something from cold steel. watch their DVD, it speaks for them. I have an ODA i have yet to trod about nordland with. oh i caint wait :).

[hso]

2falable,

Welcome to THR! How'd you find us?

[Nicolai]

You might want to look at these:
Doug Ritter (www.equipped.org) reviews "survival knives" at his website. His own design, the RSK drop-point in fixed blade and folder, is made by Benchmade.
Mors Kochanski, author of "Bushcraft," uses a carbon-steel hard grip Mora, modified by some grinding on the handle and the blade (modified tanto point).
The Helle Symfoni recently got good reviews in an article in Field and Stream.
No, haven't tried any of the above, but the Mora is dirt-cheap, the Benchmades are pricey, and the Helle is somewhere in the middle--just depends on what type best fits your purposes.
Personally, I would carry:
1. A multi-tool--a Leatherman Charge XTi or Victorinox Swiss Army Work Champ. The Leatherman has the major blades (including one with a guthook) on the outside. They all lock, as do the blades on the inside of the handles--a nice feature for boneheads like me. The Work Champ doesn't have a guthook, but does have a corkscrew for those bottles of Syrah you might encounter.
2. A small (3-4" blade) fixed-blade--Benchmade Model 180 (Outbounder) or a Knives of Alaska Cub Bear.
3. Something larger and heavier, like the Knives of Alaska Brown Bear Skinner Cleaver or Bush Camp Knife.

[Tearlachblair]

How tough is a Mora? Will they break pretty easily??

[Zero_DgZ]

There's much more you can do with a ten dollar machete and a forty dollar folder of reasonable quality (Kershaw?) than you can do with a 50 dollar fixed blade halfway in between.

[bubbygator]

The guys who mentioned Becker didn't give link. Look at this:
http://www.camillusknives.com/1mainframe.htm?bkt/index.shtml~main

[Eleven Mike]

How tough is a Mora? Will they break pretty easily??Define easily. I know I used mine to split some small logs in half. (By placing the blade where I wanted the split and whacking the spine repeatedly with another small log.)

They are less than an 1/8" thick, but strong enough for use as a knife.

[LanEvo`]

I'm a big fan of the Ontario/RAT knives. The 4.25" blade TAK models are my favorites for general outdoors use:

http://www.ontariorat.com/gallery/Fgallery1-3.jpg http://www.ontariorat.com/gallery/Fgallery1-5.jpg

Not too big. Nice construction. Straightforward blade and grip design. Available with either D2 tool or 1095 carbon steels. Not bad for $65-75.

[FourTeeFive]

I second the Ontario knives; great value. Check out the RAT-7. Good prices can be found on eBay and other online retailers.

http://www.shouri-knife.com/assets/images/rat-7-109502.jpg

[Eleven Mike]

Those do look like good knives, despite the lack of a substantial guard. Review, please. :)

[hso]

11M,

The Ontarios have plenty of "guard" with that finger choil. I've handled them and was impressed. They are more lightly built than the Beckers using a thinner steel. Of course heavier doesn't mean better in every application. There have been complaints about blade deformation when they knives were used for digging, prying and heavier chopping, but were reported to hold up well for more normal uses and batonning.

[grizz]

Isn't the best survival knife still a swiss-army, or a leatherman?

A couple blades, a can opener, some screw drivers, a saw, and a few other tools seem to make more sense in a survival situation than a 6 inch blade combat knife. :rolleyes:

[ArfinGreebly]

Lots of good suggestions.

Ka-Bar, Camillus, Ontario: all good stuff.

Cold Steel, yup, also good.

There is an awful lot of good hardware out there. I own a bunch. Its a serious character flaw.

That said, I do have a favorite type. The Scandinavian designs, embodied in the Mora knives (made by K.J. Eriksson, Frosts, and Normark), the Finnish family of that basic design, chiefly by Marttiini -- excellent stuff -- and the Norwegian brands (more expensive but very well finished), e.g. Helle, Brusletto. I have several of the Eriksson and Frost knives (military, utility, skinners, whittlers). I really like the Swedish Army version and the Mora 2000. Awesome tools.

The Scandinavian grind is a simple single bevel from a usually laminated piece of stock. Shaving sharp and brutally rugged. I have one today that I picked up on a ship in Sweden more than 30 years ago. Its wooden handle is pretty ugly now, but its edge is still very much a working edge.

My prize set is a Finnish (Marttiini) set, a double scabbard with a small 3-inch "puukko" on the outside of a larger "Leuku" knife. The smaller one is a great all around utility knife. The larger one will chop kindling, skin reindeer, and slice tomatoes.

I also have the whole set of Marttiini "MN-x" series of hunting knives (MN-10, -14, -15, -16, and -17). They range from 3 inches to 5 inches (the MN-15 is a very comfortable 4-inch blade) with a rubber handle. Very useful.

Both Ragnar's Forge (http://www.ragweedforge.com/SwedishKnifeCatalog.html) and Kellam Knives (http://www.kellamknives.com) cover a wide range of possibilities.

As others have advised, I would not try to get a single knife to do everything. I have a set with a light hatchet and the large & small Marttiini blades. If you can only use two, then a hatchet and a 4-inch or 5-inch utility knife. If you're stuck with just one, then the 5-inch puukko-style utility knife will earn its keep.

The Swedish and Finnish knives are inexpensive (for the most part) and will take all the punishment you can dish out. The high-carbon blades hold a great edge. The stainless blades do quite well, too. I use both.

Oh, and carry a good folder, too. I happen to like the Buck 110 and the Kershaw 3120 or 3140.

You can't have too many knives.

[FourTeeFive]

Someone mentioned it earlier; for the money it is hard to beat the Glock knives. Usually around $25 or so.

http://img25.photobucket.com/albums/v76/rapidboy1/394_9424crop_1.jpg

[Davo]

So I recieved a pair of these knives from the sportsmans guide, 10 bucks each. I have used one over the last month or so and am impressed. The knife is solid but also light weight. The handle is large and comfortable. It is just the knife for backpacking.

[Coyote3855]

Marbles Fieldcraft.
http://www.marblesoutdoors.com/cutlery/fieldcraft.html

Swedish Camper's Hatchet from Garrett Wade:
http://www.garrettwade.com/sdx/H35736.jsp

Basic Leatherman multitool
Whereever

18" Swedish Bow saw.
Home Depot



My dad used to say, "the bigger the knife, the dumber the tenderfoot." He used a 1950's Buck 110 with the green scales. Everyday carry knife on the ranch was his Case Boy Scout model, on a lanyard and in his right hip pocket.

Coyote3855

[tcgeol]

I would like to offer a slightly different opinion, but I will admit that I don't have as much experience as most of you, so I am quite open to the possibility of being corrected:)

Those of you who suggested a small knife and a machete/hatchet are fine, but a lot of people (by no means all) have instead given suggestions for a outdoor utility knife and so suggested a smaller blade. I would agree with this, but that isn't what the original poster asked about.
If a person is actually in a survival situation, would he really prefer a small knife to a medium to large one? I can see very few situations where I couldn't choke up on a larger knife and use it as a small one, but I can think of a lot of situations where I might wish that my knife was a lot bigger. I think that knives like a Buck 110 (which I have) are great for general work, but I can think of a whole lot of others that I would rather have in a survival situation as my primary knife.

Having said that, I would prefer to have a good SAK along with a big knife such as a BK7 or 9.

[Colt46]

Expensive, heavy, not very practical and that hollowed out handle does nothing for lateral strength of blade and handle.
Almost any knife will work well if you know what you can use it for and what you should avoid. Yeah, don't split firewood with a swiss army knife! I'm a fan of simple knives.
No excessive blade length.
No serrations
no compass
convenient sheath and retaining system.

I'm a huge fan of scandinavian knives. Some firms offer a combination Leuko/Puukko housed in the same sheath. The leuko is used for the heavy stuff, chopping/splitting and the Puukko for everything else.

[Gordon]

Well based on my experience, this is it!:)

http://www.tacticalforums.com/cgi-bin/tacticalubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=7;t=001774#000001

[ArfinGreebly]

+1 on the "Rambo knives make me want to hurl"

That said, there is a line of survival knives that makes me drool.

Chris Reeve makes a line of knives with hollowed-out handles. These are machined from a single solid billet of tool steel. They're not dramatically large. They are, however, just plain tough.

Naturally, they aren't anywhere near $50. Here are a couple:

http://www.knifecenter.com/knifecenter/reeve/images/shad4.jpg

http://www.knifecenter.com/knifecenter/reeve/images/sable4.jpg

Those first two have 5.5-inch blades.

Five and a half inches not enough? How about nine?

http://www.knifecenter.com/knifecenter/reeve/images/shadow1new.jpg

Hey, after all, it's only money.

[The Cultural Woodsman]

Ask ten different guys you will get ten different answers. The bottom line is you should be capable of using any knife worth being called a knife(notice I said "worth being called a knife) to do just about any job. The question is your skill with the knife and the ability to keep it sharp.

You have to remember that native cultures around the world got by with sharp rocks for a long, long time. Were they ideal? No. Not even close, but the point is they had the knowledge and skill to complete a given task with what was available.

If you are going to pick a specific knife and say this is my "survival knife" it is hard to go wrong with a Scandinavian ground blade of good steel like a Mora in your price range. Main reason? Ease of sharpening. A dull knife is almost worthless (at least to me). This is, of course what I say for a beginner.

Learn with a pocket knife (NEVER trust any lock completely) a small sheath knife and a large sheath knife....as many different kinds as you can.

My point? Even a $50.00 knife is worthless unless you have knowledge and skills to pack with it. And the best survival knife in the world is the one you have when you need it. Just my humble thoughts, not saying anyone else is wrong.

[hso]

Welcome to THR! Nice post The Cultural Woodsman.

[sm]

The Cultural Woodsman,

Welcome to THR and I too agree with your post. Funny, when I have been on extended canoe and portage trips in Canada, I took along a Old Hickory Paring, or Utility knife and Case Camp knife. We were out from 9 days to 21 days.

Later I went to the SAK , a simple one, much like the Soldier knife, and again a Old Hickory paring, or utility knife. Small Norton India stone, small flat needle file...good to go.

For my use a small folding saw was easier to pack and tote than a hatchet, then again a old, small wooden handled hand axe one worked fine. Depended on what I was doing.

The knife I carried in Canada and all over the US and even in Jamacia was similar this one, except back then the tweezers and toothpicks were not even part of the line. http://www.eknifeworks.com/webapp/eCommerce/product.jsp?Mode=Cat&Cat=92&range=11&SKU=V5002R
I have since lost it and another SAK .

Other knives I have used include Case Trapper with CV blades, Case Sodbuster Jr, Case slimline Trapper, Case Moose I like Case knives and especially the CV blades

Quite a few Barlows with Carbon Steel blades were used over the years too.

Proven "Survival" knives used by Folks Ranching, Farming, Lumberjacking, Guides on various Trips ( a few guides used Barlows in Canada with a Old Hickory for a fixed blade as I did.) and folks still do.

Buck 110s were popular here and I preferred the Case Mako Shark for that type of knife when I carried one...fits my hands better. Just too many folks have cleaned too many fish and game with what they carried all the time and did everything with - including be out for a week at a time.





I forget the gentleman's name that went to Alaska and built a log cabin. He lived for many years up until his 80's and he used simple tools to survive. He documented with photos, movies and writings.
It was shown on PBS a few months ago. His cabin and all still standing and a "Museum" of sorts if you will.

Survive? Yeah, for decades with the simple tools, all by himself.

[The Cultural Woodsman]

I appreciate the welcome guys...and just so you know I didn't pick my name because I am "cultured and refined", I picked it because of an intense interest in blending cultures in all things, from woodcraft to woodworking and survival techniques.....the world has a lot to offer.

I am particularly fond of the old Russian cultural ways and our American Indian ways, and of course, Scandanavia.

I absolutely love some of the blends of Russian steel for any kind of knife but for a beginner with a budget I think they would be a little harder to sharpen but without question more durable. Try surviving in Siberia...lol

One Russian former Officer that taught me a lot about knives insisted I be able to use any kind of knife for any kind of task. This has served me well and even though I have my "favorites" in woodsman/survival knives I can indeed use most knives for most purposes if they are sharp.

Again I really appreciate the welcome:)

Oh yeah and most beginners will find carbon steel much easier to sharpen but that it requires more care than some want to give....again just my 2 cents..

[3 gun]

Of course it depends on how you define survival as to what would be best. A vote here for a Leatherman like tool rather than a large fix bladed knife for most uses. Of course if you have the room for more than one knife, a large fixed blade survival does have its good points. Still I think the Leatherman style tool and a small axe/hatchet combo would be better, unless your area would be better suited to a machete over an axe. Either way a big fixed blade survival knife is more a movie prop than real life. IMHO

[Exmasonite]

I picked up one of these for $35 about 7 years ago and have taken it hiking/backpacking 3-4 times a year since. i've beaten on it pretty well and it's held up. holds an edge very well (sharpen every 1-2 years although i don't require "surgical" sharpness).

http://www.a2zoutdoors.com/alce_knives.htm

i got the top one w/ the serrated edge.

[LAK]

Zero_DgZThere's much more you can do with a ten dollar machete and a forty dollar folder of reasonable quality (Kershaw?) than you can do with a 50 dollar fixed blade halfway in between.
And there's wisdom for you.

Even in desert or very sparsely timbered terrain. A short machete can, in a pinch, be used to dig, pry, even form the basis for a short splint. Chop/cut snow blocks for a shelter, or break ice to gain access to water underneath. Not to mention a good weapon.

Like ArfinGreebly, I have a weakness for quality cutlery; in particular knives by several makers such as Chris Reeve, Randall etc. And they are worth every penny IMO - if you can afford it. Like a budget folder or small fixed blade these can be paired nicely with a short machete or ax.

--------------------------------

http://ussliberty.org
http://ssunitedstates.org

[LAK]

How tough is a Mora? Will they break pretty easily??
They are as tough as any other quality blade of the same thickness and materials.

Their carbon steel blades can be made super sharp - the Sandvik 12c27 will take a pretty sharp edge too. Both make for effective and practical cutting tools.

---------------------------------------

http://ussliberty.org
http://ssunitedstates.org

[snow]

Well I have to agree that a knife with a blade over 5" is a lot of extra weight to carry around all day. When my son first joined the boy scouts I bought the becker 7 and don't get me wrong it is a wonderful knife but I found for most of my chores my SAK trekker did most of the jobs and for the few things that a bigger knife would have been better lest just say my SOG field pup now takes care of those. Like I said it a good knife just found to be heavy. Now if I were going say to the wilderness for extended periods over a month I would consider taking it then again I might just take two of my smaller lighter fixed blades.

under 50.00
Becker 7 or better yet 5, KaBar
I just found out in brigadequatermasters about the becker necker sounds like it could be a option also.
Two other great knives are the grohmann boat knife 69.00 AGrussell and the yukon belt knife by knives of alaska ( I have in D2 steel) great knife also gets used regularly on fishing and camping trips. 89.00

[hso]

I think you can apply a version of KISS to this question. KISS can be Keep It Simple Stupid by looking at what "survival" you're talking about. Then it can be Keep It Small Stupid to fit that survival model you're identified.

Most of the time a small blade around 3-3.5" is all that is needed for a knowledgable person to use in "survival" situations. In some cases a larger blade is a big advantage though (machete), but they are not common.

Keep the guards small. A knife with a cross guard or a single guard that is designed for "fighting" knives isn't good for a "survival" knife. You want to be able to keep your fingers off the blade, but you don't need a big piece of metal keeping the blade off of the cutting surface.

[SpookyPistolero]

For that money you could get your own version of the 'Nessmuk trio'. Get a Mora for a solid fixed blade, a Wetterlings hand axe and a good SAK (preferably with a saw). All for right around $50, and not a task I can imagine that wouldn't be covered (except slicing through thick vegetation, but that's relative to your locale. Replace hatchet with khukri/bolo in this case). You also won't cry if it gets damaged, and if an individual blade out of the trio is lost or ruined somehow, you've got other items to fall back on.

[steeltiger]

A machete ( cold steel kukri machete is my preference[$20] ), and a good stout folder ( cold steel voyager[$50], buck 186 odessy[$30], anything that can be called upon to do more than its fair share ) and you should be set, also a dmt diamond sharpener can be very handy[$25].
I second the notion that ''the best survival knife is the one that you have with you'' so I consider my basic survival knife to be my edc ( usualy a five or six inch voyager, crkt m-16, or sog autoclip ).
My leatherman wave has an amazing saw, but thats all it boasts, nothing else that I'm very fond of, or thats hardley worth considering.
As far as most linerlocks go, I dont trust them. If you baton them they usualy lock open so ''well'' you cant close 'em. The gerber E-Z out lockback I have cant stand batoning, it started opening beyond 180 deg. !!, no damage, but scary.

[snow]

I am sorry but if a folder is opening beyond 180 degrees that is damage and a dangerous situation. Replace that folder before you end up hurting yourself.

[steeltiger]

For me at least, gerber will always be known for sloppy tolerances. I really should have expexted, given my past experiances, don't get get me wrong here I do like gerber, just they are not very reliable. As far as learning, it taught me not to put too much trust into anything unless its already proven itself. The spring doesen't have a definate ''stop'' so if you push far enough it will ''ride up with wear'', I'm just happy this happened in practice, not an emergecy. Also its used, in good condition, but used, so there wont be any returning it. Thanks for the consern, and you can bet I wont be batoning that knife anymore!!!

[Eleven Mike]

As far as most linerlocks go, I dont trust them. If you baton them they usualy lock open so ''well'' you cant close 'em. The gerber E-Z out lockback I have cant stand batoning, it started opening beyond 180 deg. !!, no damage, but scary.

I once saw a girl batonning an EZ Out. She spent the rest of the survival course with a bad cut on her hand.

But why on Earth would anyone baton a folder? That just sounds crazy to me. Better to keep your knife intact for other chores, and do without whatever it is you're batonning.

That being said, EZ-Outs are junk that should never be batoned or even carried. They're not pretty enough to be a wall-hanger, so letter-opening seems to be their only use. :p

[steeltiger]

In keeping with the likleyhood that your survival knife is the one with you, I decided to attempt this with a knife I was likley to carry. Consider that, due to some unfortunate circumstance ( car wreck, lost, trapped in a burning building, ect ) where you dont have the best tools for the job, but only what you have carried, a folder, wouldn't you like to get out of that building, or make a overnight shelter. Its not the best tool, certainally, but it will still help, If you read a blade article entitled ''how to turn your folder into an axe'' in the december 2004 ( cover knife camillus heat ) It will grant you alot of information and if you have that issue, its worth a read.That article also gives several other reasons one may need to use his knife in such a manner, its fairly well written.
All I know about battoning was from this book, so I thought I could use some experiance aswell, hope this is explanitory enough:D

[jcramin]

I have one of these

http://www.m9bayonet.com/

J

[Eleven Mike]

In keeping with the likleyhood that your survival knife is the one with you, I decided to attempt this with a knife I was likley to carry. Consider that, due to some unfortunate circumstance ( car wreck, lost, trapped in a burning building, ect ) where you dont have the best tools for the job, but only what you have carried, a folder, wouldn't you like to get out of that building, or make a overnight shelter. Its not the best tool, certainally, but it will still help, If you read a blade article entitled ''how to turn your folder into an axe'' in the december 2004 ( cover knife camillus heat ) It will grant you alot of information and if you have that issue, its worth a read.That article also gives several other reasons one may need to use his knife in such a manner, its fairly well written.

Or just carry a fixed-blade as EDC, as I do. :)

[Eleven Mike]

I have one of these

http://www.m9bayonet.com/

Worst recommendation ever. :cool:

[steeltiger]

Untill recently I thought a fixxed blade (concealed) was illegal to carry in TX, I have no desire to carry openly as my folders scare enough people already. That said I do occasionaly (illegaly) carry a recon tanto, but other than that I really don't have any ''cut through a door'' tough as nails knife under 5.5'', but if I found a legal knife I'd probably carry it:D

[Lurp]

Check into the BK7 made by Becker. It has a 7 inch blade and can withstand a lot of abuse. I think it’s about $54 on New Graham but its well worth it. If you are looking for good survival folders I would definitely recommend Opinels because of their cost and durability. They are very easy to field sharpen and hold a decent edge. You could buy 5 opinels for that price just to make sure your always prepared ;) .

[Waywatcher]

I'm another believer in smaller knives.

From butt to tip I like it to be about as long as my hand.

[steeltiger]

I'm certanly not an expert on Opinels, but don't they just make the cheap wooden ''penny knivess'', I don't think I would trust them. My cold steel knives are proven, I know they can handle it.
As for the RAT seven, my state grants five and a half inch carry, so it (as far as I know) is illegal, but they do look like they could handle about anything, do they have anything just a bit smaller? If I come across an officer, I can make the claim that concealment is legal by my knowledge, but I think he would have me on blade length (as it seems no officer has the same take on 5.5'', some say tha as long as its shorter than your hand is wide, some say they get to decide, and some just plain don't remember) I want to appear as the responcible, harmless knife user that I am.

[coelacanth]

the kukri is the best knife design on the planet regardless of the terrain or task at hand. If you have not used one you will not believe how user friendly they are. If price and weight are genuine sticking points ( ack - sorry about that one:D ) then i would recommend the Kabar marine corps issue or perhaps the Cold Steel Bushman which comes in two sizes. Just remember that any knife large enough to be an effective chopper will not excel at splinter removal and the like so plan on taking a very small folder to round out the package.

[steeltiger]

Don't have a bushman but in the CS video they look like they have too much blade flex, and the slick finnish is notorious for, well, being slick:confused:

Just have the CS kukri machete, gurkha not in yet, and in the side of a standard fence picket(pine/1/2'') it'l bite 5'' deep:D

[the lone gunman]

Isn't the best survival knife still a swiss-army, or a leatherman?

A couple blades, a can opener, some screw drivers, a saw, and a few other tools seem to make more sense in a survival situation than a 6 inch blade combat knife.

Grizz, I agree, in fact all these are already in my swiss army knife. I would seldom see the need to "Split or cut " firewood. When camping we just burn our big long logs in half. the smaller blade and awl are great for making snare triggers. and the 3" saw will cut you up a nice shelter. and when you make it out alive, The corkscrew will open you a nice bottle of wine.

[Eleven Mike]

Isn't the best survival knife still a swiss-army, or a leatherman?

No, never was. "Survival knife" means fixed-blade. Simple, durable, hopefully not bulky or overly-long. A wider blade that's more useful for batonning. Also useful for two-legged trouble. Folding knives and multi-tools are ancillary.

And the Leatherman tool is not a survival knife because - um - it's not a knife. It's a funny pliers with a knife blade attached.

[spankaveli]

I bring a Kabar into the woods with me...

[Joe Demko]

If you are on your way to and from the office, and that route doesn't take you through the jungle, it doesn't make too much sense to carry a jungle survival kit, now does it?
For office personnel, folders and multitools make a lot of sense...goloks, machetes, and kukris do not. Tailor what you carry to what you are actually going to encounter. I live in a temperate deciduous biome, so I seldom carry much in the way of desert survival gear aound with me. Try to be realistic. I know that, if you really get creative, you can come up with a scenario where the only possible way to get out of the Xerox room is with a kukri, a crate of marshmallow peeps, and three yards of linsey-woolsey, but let's not go there right now.

[Vern Humphrey]

My advice will be different.

First of all, you should select a knife based on your anticipated use. Is this knife for cleaning small game? For caping out big game? For whittling shavings to start a fire? For cutting your way out of a downed helicopter? For building a shelter? For fixing small parts on other survival gear?

Secondly, make a list of anticipated uses, and pick a knife for each one.

Third, compare choices. See if a knife selected for one use will fill another.

Fourth, don't be afraid to have more than one knife.

Beginning with my first tour in Viet Nam, I carried two knifes -- a Swiss Army folding knife -- the biggest with the most tools -- and a Randall Model 14. The former was used for everything from making field expedient booby traps to making up charges of C4 to blow up bunkers. The latter was used to clear fields of fire, cut through dense jungle, cut poles for shelters, cut firewood, open cases of ammo and C-rations, and so on.

I think this is close to the ideal pair. If I were to add a third knife, it would be a 3-4" lock-back.

[Eleven Mike]

I know that, if you really get creative, you can come up with a scenario where the only possible way to get out of the Xerox room is with a kukri, a crate of marshmallow peeps, and three yards of linsey-woolsey, but let's not go there right now.

That happened to you, too?:eek:

What's a linsey-woolsey?

[Kaylee]

What's a linsey-woolsey?

A linen-wool blend fabric, popular in the Days of Old, and hence also used a fair piece by historical re-enactors. :)

[Bondo_Red]

I always use my trusty dollar-thirty folding pocket "shark" knife. made in china that was in a bin at the hardware store

[hso]

Looks like what we're seeing here is what you see in survival schools and knife/outdoor magazine articles - there is no single knife suitable to perform "survival" duties. A small knife with a 3 inch or under blade, a larger knife and a chopper are the "Trinity" for survival. Force one function to be covered by 2 knives and you compromise their efficiency. Push it into 1 knife and the compomise becomes more dramatic.

Tailor your knife to your anticipated uses.

[rugerfreak]

I picked up a Buck short Nighthawk at Walmart for around $35---a good stout knife for pretty cheap.

[SniperStraz]

The Buck Nighthawk is a sweet looking knife!

[mainmech48]

This's probably already been suggested, but there're too many posts for me to want to sort through them all to find out for sure at the moment.

IMO, for maximum utility and toughness for the lowest buck it's hard to beat the old USGI issue item, usually reffered to as the "Pilot's Survival Knife".

Not especially pretty, and certainly not 'trick', but just as tough, versatile, and efficient for its purpose as it was back in the '50s when it was first issued. Comes with a decent leather sheath and a small sharpening stone in its own little built-in pouch. Usually found for about $30, brand new.

Beware of cheap Asian 'knock-offs'. The most common names to look for are Camilus, Ontario, and Kabar.

[steeltiger]

You guys have mentioined the, former camillus pilot and the gerber that was vying for the position, but I don't rember mention of the current issue ontario, of did I just not read as thourghly as I thought I did?

this is a dumb question, but is there any possible use for a saw speficly designed to cut rocks? It sounds useless to me, so I thought I'd ask if anyone else has heard of this ''implement'', if so could you give me a scenario in wich this might be a necessity?

[Gustav]

Genuine Wenger or Victorknox Swiss army knife model Champ check e bay or froogle.com last one I bought as a gift was $48.50 delivered from e bay.
They also offer the SOS kit to go with it.
Combine with a good Buck or Kershaw folder and a flint and steel and your a few steps ahead.
Best of luck.

[Eleven Mike]

Dude, if you have to ask that question, it just means you ain't spec ops. Don't worry, little civilian. :neener:

[hso]

ST,

Interesting idea (I actually had to think about this one), but I can't see a rock saw in a handtool being much use in a survival situation. Cutting rocks by hand using saphire or diamond tools is a laborious process and very labor intensive. Cutting wood with one wouldn't be very good because the diamond grit would quickly clog with fibers and sap. In survival it's often a trade off between how many calories expended on a task vs how many calories gained or conserved by performing it. Not much that I can think of that would warrant cutting rock.

[Eleven Mike]

Look, guys. In special warfare, we're called on to do a lot of things that wouldn't make sense to civilians. I know, sawing rock seems a little tough to you guys sitting at home, drinking beer. But out here, we have to do what we have to do.

[steeltiger]

OK, but why? doen't seem to be of any use, especialy in a survival situation, could you give me a full explanation please?:confused:

[Eleven Mike]

:D

[Coyote3855]

Some folks don't get satire. Others shouldn't try.

[steeltiger]

I am sorry for my stupidity but I would rather like to know because it's been playinng my mind ''WHY?''

[markk]

To get to the soft tasty filling inside.DUH...