[Radjxf]

I just recently acquired my first Colt revolver (own many Colt 1911's). It's a Diamondback from ?era. Question is, should I be concerned over a slight amount of rotational cylinder play? Also has a very small amount of front-back play, but barrel to cylinder gap looks pretty close. The "little cutouts" in the cylinder where the bolt (maybe wrong term) contacts them has tiny "scuffs" from the bolt, and a very slight cylinder turn line.
Seems to be a very neat, well-made revolver, shoots good. Being a S&W man, the trigger is no where near as good as any of my smiths, needs to be slicked up IMO. So should I be concerned about the above issues?
Thanks for any replies.

[Jim Watson]

A DA Colt revolver is not fully locked up until the trigger is pulled and the hand holds the cylinder against the bolt. Do you have any slack when you dryfire and hold the trigger back?

Scuffs in the bolt notch leads and a cylinder drag line are signs of use. If you don't want wear marks, don't shoot it.

Trigger work on a Colt is a real specialty, not to be trusted to a general gunsmith. Maybe somebody will recommend a 'smith who knows his way around a V spring Colt for you.

[Radjxf]

Jim thanks for the info. First off, I'm not concerned in the least about wear marks, this gun has moderate finish wear from holstering. My comment about the scuffs and turn line are because "I heard" that Colt's shouldn't have a turn line due to the system by which they lock up vs. a Smith and that it was a sign that adjustment was in order.
The cylinder play was noticed while the gun was in full lockup.
To be honest, all of the S&W's I've observed so far new and used, had a slight amount of rotational and to a lesser degree, front-to-back play.

[BigG]

It needs to be adjusted if cylinder moves at all in full lock up.

[GrantCunningham]

If the cylinder has ANY rotational movement with the trigger held firmly to the back, then it needs repair. If the cylinder has any noticeable rearward movement when at rest, then it needs repair.

Continuing to shoot a Colt in this condition will result in further damage to the internal parts and the expensive-to-replace ratchet (ejector.) The Colt lockwork isn't like a S&W, where a bit of looseness is designed into the action. A Colt must be tight, otherwise it's not right!

(Hey, that's pretty catchy! I think I'll use it...)

[Radjxf]

If the cylinder has any noticeable rearward movement when at rest, then it needs repair.


Good to hear your opinion, Grant. Shall I assume that "at rest" means without applying any tension? This revo has no rearward movement UNLESS you push back on the cylinder, then it "springs" right back.
I may or may not keep it, seems like a great little gun that just needs some minor attention. Bought it with the intention of warming my wife up to guns, but that task seems almost impossible.

[Steve C]

People do more damage prying on revolvers cylinders. When checking lockup use a very slight pressure only. When the pistol fires there isn't any rotational pressure to the cylinder so prying on it to see if you can move it does more damage than shooting it. If the gun shoots well and functions reliably quite looking for problems to imagine. Don't fix what isn't broke.

[Dr.Rob]

Read the sticky at the top of this forum about 'used revolver checkout' it explains in great detail what you should or shouldn't be alarmed about.

[Radjxf]

If the gun shoots well and functions reliably quite looking for problems to imagine. Don't fix what isn't broke.

I was asking a simple question, not looking for problems.
My question was answered very succinctly by Grant.
....but thanks for your advice.:rolleyes:

[GrantCunningham]

By "at rest", this means not having the trigger held back. In that state, if there is any* rearward movement (yes, the cylinder is under spring pressure from the latch and should spring back when released) it is worn.

How much is "any"? Colt specifies no more than .003" of endplay, which is the rearward movement of the cylinder. That is not much movement; for most people who don't do this every day, it it almost imperceptible. Thus if you can feel it, it's probably too much.

What happens if you continue to shoot a Colt with excessive endplay? First, the ratchet will be compressed from the hammering effect of the moving cylinder, leading to even more endplay and possible frame damage (battering.) In addition, the hand will be cammed back into compression as the cylinder slides into it, which increases wear on that part. As the hand wears, cylinder lockup becomes loose, which eventually leads to an out-of-time condition.

Colts aren't like S&W; every single part of the action is dependent upon the proper fit and function of every other part. Defer maintenance on one, and you may end up wearing another prematurely. Given the proper maintenance, a Colt will last forever (as many of the guns that pass through my shop attest.) Lack of same is what gives many people the mistaken impression that Colts are somehow "delicate."

[Radjxf]

Thanks again Grant. Apparantly I was being too careful when evaluating the "full lockup" condition. If I apply a little more pressure on the trigger when all the way back, the cylinder has NO rotational or back and forth play at all. NONE.
Next item on the agenda is to try and trade one of my buddies out of one of his Pythons.....:)

[Majic]

My comment about the scuffs and turn line are because "I heard" that Colt's shouldn't have a turn line due to the system by which they lock up vs. a Smith and that it was a sign that adjustment was in order.
If a Colt is in perfect time then the bolt will not cause a turn line when the action cycles. To keep that line from forming you do have to be careful when you close the cylinder. You must line the notch up with the bolt so the action goes into lock without having to turn the cylinder. You will seldom find a model like this as most people are not that careful about closing the cylinder and like most revolvers most Colts are slightly out of time (though not enough to bother anything).

[Old Fuff]

Another point: Double check to be sure the cylinder is unloaded. Then close and latch the cylinder. Turn the gun so that you can view it from the front, and then press on the left side of the cylinder. See if you can spring it away form the frame, leaving a tiny gap between the frame and crane. If you can the crane is slightly sprung - something that can be corrected - but the condition can contribute toward a rotational movement problem. On occasion I have completely eliminated a loose lock-up issue by straightening the crane barrel.

[Radjxf]

Almost forgot, the gratuitous pic, for some reason the pics are only up for less than a day and turn to red x's??
http://www.esnips.com/imageable/medium/d37ead30-a1d2-47e1-9692-46b07e0c1db8