[Handyman]

I have a blued GP100 . ONE of the reasons I bought it was because I thought it looked kool . But now I'm thinking maybe I should have bought the stainless . It is my colder weather hiking/outdoor and what if a disaster struck , gun . How much moisture or very wet exposure can a blued revolver take before it gets ruined . I keep it lightly oiled when in storage but wipe off the oil when I carry it . Do any of you think it would be worth the $100 or so I might lose by selling the blued and buying a new stainless . When I used to hunt with my shotgun [ duck hunting in particular ] the gun would get a little rust but after a cleaning didn't seem any worse for the wear . But that was just one day afield . What happens if your'e out several days or longer before you can clean and/or oil the gun ?

[Boxerrider]

I haven't tried everything, but I've tried a few things and Eezox is my favorite, blue & stainless. Dries without leaving an oily film that attracts lint & dust.

Enjoy!

[Biker]

I'm a big fan of stainless, as well as Tennifer finished and Titanium guns. I like to look at the worst case scenario as it concerns maintainance.

Biker

[mainmech48]

Back before stainless was an option, we used to use silicone car wax on our hunting and CCW weapons. It works well. Although it doesn't entirely eliminate routine maintenance, it does give you a great deal more leeway on how frequently and thoroughly you have to go at it.

Silicone waxes are history, but there are a couple of current products which equal or surpass them in performance. Blue Wonder "Armadillo" and "Renaissance Wax" (available from Brownell's and several other sources).

Used as diected they will protect the finish on your blued firearms from moisture and body acids much, much better than oils or "WD-40"-type silicone sprays. Another plus is that they also help keep your wood sealed and protected, too.

Just be sure to remove the stock or grips and coat all of the metal surfaces they normally cover. On your revolver, I'd do the chambers and bore too.

On CCWs, this will usually cut your routine maintenance wipe-down and inspection from daily to once a week or so. On hunting rifles and shotguns, it will save you a lot of potentially nasty surprises when you get ready to store them at the end of the season.

Stainless is nice, but you needn't take a big hit on trading your blue GP-100 just to get it. With a little care and the proper preparation, your practical maintenance issues won't be any more frequent or serious than they would for SS.

[MountainBear]

If you like this particular gun (I am sentimentally attached to several of mine), then look into sending the gun to Robar to get a protective coating. Roguard (I think thats the name) is supposed to handle corrosion resistance very well. Might be a good alternative to selling one to buy another...

[MachIVshooter]

Keep your blued model and buy another in stainless. Simple solution;)

[NineseveN]

I'll second Robar (www.robarguns.com)...get the gun NP3'd and never worry about it again, ever.

[Deanimator]

I find stainless esthetically unattractive.

Having said that, I recently bought an S&W 3" Model 65. I would have greatly preferred a blued Model 13, but they're simply unavailable in this part of Ohio. Didn't see any from the major gundealers either. The 65 is a great gun, and since I bought it for CCW, I have far fewer worries regarding corrosion.

Still, I wish I could have found a 13...

[Ala Dan]

Rub a blued weapon that is going too be exposed to the elements down with
Blue Wonder Armadillo, then top coat it with a thin coat of Eezox or Break Free CLP and your weapon will be well protected.

[wacki]

Roguard will take far more punishment than any other black finish available - tested both in the laboratory and in the field.

http://www.robarguns.com/roguard.htm

hrmmmmmmmm........

does this mean black finish isn't the best? Stainless certainly isn't. So what is the best? Some green or brown color finish? Yes I know it depends on the chemicals but their wording is peculiar.

[Huddog]

Keep the blue, buy the stainless. I carried a blue revolver on LEO duty for several years and a blue auto after that, in all kinds of weather. Unless you just neglect it rust should not be a problem. Just dry and oil it after it gets wet.

[kd7nqb]

This is slightly off topic but since coatings came up does anybody know anything about DiamondKote (http://www.mrarms.com/colors.html). One of my shooting buddies has a S/W 910 that he wants to get done and my answer was "I thing S&W knows how to coat a gun"

[dragongoddess]

Blue is for every day use
Stainless is for formal wear

[22-rimfire]

Blued guns have soul. Keep the blued GP100. I love my 3". Gun is a tool; if it gets wet, it gets wet. Wipe it down. From a practical perspective, couldn't you just keep it shielded from the rain?? You wear rain gear don't you?

[highlander 5]

+ 100 on rogard or NP 3 finish. I had a Ruger Blackhawk done in
Armorloy and it was quite durable,grey in color with an oragne peel apperance. Remember this,the 2 most corrisive things your pistol will come in contact with blood and human persperation
Side note SS is rust resistent,it will rust you just have to work at it a little harder

[Onmilo]

While I enjoy using blued finish firearms for pleasure weapons I have to admit that stainless steel and synthetic materials for stocks and grips is making more and more practical sense to me in the hunting environments.
No matter how nasty the weather, wipe the gun down with a little light oil and it is good as new.
Stainless steel barrels take a great deal more abuse without pitting that carbon steel and game animals do not seem to be aware that the long shiney stick is a firearm aimed in their direction.
If you have ever fallen down a steep hill or fallen off a horse you will totally understand my preference for synthetic stocking materials.