Triggers,single stage,2 stage,please explain.


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Matt1911
May 20, 2003, 07:53 AM
While i'm pretty sure i know the differance,i am having a bit of trouble relateing it to my 15 year old daughter(who's taken quite an intrest in high power,and my AR:D ).
Maybe some of you can explain it better than i.

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Steve Smith
May 20, 2003, 09:36 AM
Very cool, man, get that girl out on the line!

The explanation is best preceded by the reason for them.

HP SR guns like the M1A and AR are derived from full auto versions. On top of that we all know that its easy to bump fire a semi-auto centerfire rifle. What's the best way to prevent an "accidental" bump fire? Make the trigger heavier. Only match shooters don't like that. How do you compromise? Make the entire break point worth 4.5 lbs (NRA HP minimum) but divide it into two distinct stages. The first takes up about 75% of the weight, and then you feel a distinct stopping point. Then you have about 1 lb to add and it will (should) break like a glass rod with that extra 1lb. You still have a true 4.5 lb trigger, but the actual break is more like a pound. After the take up you really don't realize you're holding 3.5 lbs back.

Art Eatman
May 20, 2003, 09:43 AM
Steve's quite properly given you the modern version about how it's done today. Now, from the dim pages of yesteryear: The WW I era (and maybe earlier) two-stage military trigger had take-up slack, and then the actual resistance or "trigger pull" in some number of pounds of force required. The take-up slack was the first stage and was regarded as somewhat of a safety feature.

Hunting rifles of the 1920s and 1930s commonly didn't have this "slack" feature.

Thus, there was little comment in the gun media about a single-stage trigger, but articles about surplus military rifles for a sporterizing project usually had some comment about "I just stoned the sear, but left the military two-stage setup in place."

FWIW, Art

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