i've read the manuals provided by S&W and Taurus, and I think I understand how you go about cleaning the cylinder/barrel/muzzle etc. They don't discuss the internals, like the firing mechanics, instead saying that if you have other issues they should be taken in to a gunsmith. But it would seem to me like they would need cleaning too. is that accurate? If so, how often?
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November 14, 2006, 08:13 PM
Get Jerry Kuhnhausen's S&W book and a set of the correctly sized screwdrivers from Brownell's and clean the inside lockwork and ejector of your S&W revolvers once a year. It really doesn't get very much crud inside the frame when shooting, but the insides should be cleaned sometimes just to keep the oil fresh and the trigger action crisp and clean.
November 14, 2006, 08:48 PM
I've never cleaned the insides of any of my Smith & Wesson revolvers, and when I've opened them they've always been clean. With stainless guns you can just give them a good rinsing in warm water and hit it with a blow drier afterwards. They say you should cock the gun and put a single drop of a good grade oil or lubricant and snap it a couple of times.
One company made an ultrasonic cleaner a few years ago. Just fill the tub with mineral spirits and flip on the switch. All the gunk collected in the bottom. Don't know if they still have them.
November 14, 2006, 09:37 PM
The reason that the manuals refer you to a gunsmith for internal work is because everyone doesn't understand the internal working of all the various revolvers. They do have small springs and possibly pins that can get lost. Some have springs that must go in a certain position (that's not readily seen) to function correctly. If you don't know and don't want to learn the the small investment to have a gunsmith clean it once a year (unless you do a lot of shooting then it's more often) is chump change.
November 15, 2006, 12:56 AM
I had the same questions when I bought mine. Most important thing you can do is clean the gun after every time you use it. Never use steel wool on the front of the cylinder, you'll eventually increase the clearances between the cylinder and forcing cone and get that oh so favorable "obviously cleaned with steel wool" look. Flitz works very well in removing the mess on the front. Just make sure to not get the stuff in the charge holes of the cylinder, if you do make sure you clean that out as well.
With the internals, it's a good idea to take the plate off, just to see what sort of condition they look like. The first time I took mine apart, I couldn't believe how much crap congregated behind the grips! If anything, take the grips off and you should be good to go as far as cleaning. If you're very concerned with the internals, play around with the action, seeing how all the parts work, you can decide which parts then need small amounts of lube on them, but as long as you keep your gun out of filthy environments (and I know this always can't be avoided), I wouldn't worry about it too much. Just take off the grips every now and then.
November 15, 2006, 02:48 AM
These two links tell you everything you need to know: