.243 Bolt Face


November 15, 2006, 10:14 PM
If I were interested in rechambering a Remington 700 in .243, what other calibers will fit that bolt face?

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November 15, 2006, 10:18 PM
From what I can tell it needs to be a short action with a rim diameter of .473
That sound about right? Any intruiging suggestions?

Jim K
November 15, 2006, 10:38 PM
Rechamber? There isn't a lot of leeway there if you stick to factory calibers, and nothing that would be any great improvement over the .243. I think the 6mm Remington has too much taper to clean up the .243 chamber and would be no great improvement anyway (though it is one of my personal favorites).

Rebarrelling opens up the field to .22-250, .308 Winchester, .358 Winchester, and any other short/medium round with that base size. Of course, it is a more expensive proposition and it might be more economical to trade the rifle.


November 15, 2006, 11:04 PM
True Jim, but I'm a gunsmithing student. Trading the rifle would rule out it being used to experiment on. I don't have this gun yet, but am looking to aquire it in a trade for a gun I already played with. I just need new and exciting things to do. To change the caliber of the gun would only cost me the price of a new barrel blank. I can install, headspace, ream the chamber, and refinish the gun myself...

By the way, are you the only one who responds to threads in this section? I'm not complaining by any means, you've answered several questions, and I enjoy reading your responses. It just seems as though your the only one responding...

November 15, 2006, 11:33 PM
the 243 is a necked down 308, so anything based on that same case you could rebarrel to without modifying the bolt face.

November 16, 2006, 09:28 AM
How about a .260 rem or 7mm-08. There's a lot of good 7mm bullets out there. Good Luck

November 16, 2006, 10:16 AM
The .473 boltface dimension is standard on a TON of cartridges---from .22-250 on up. BUT, you're limiting yourself by using the .243 as a starting point, because it only allows the use of "short action" cartridges.

I've been toying with a similar idea, but I'm gonna use a Savage, because its easier to change barrels, and if I start with a "long action" I can go from .22-250 up to 35 whelen(or beyond), and about 100 (including wildcats) calibers in between. May have to work out feeding issues, but that's OK. AND, you can change the bolt face (as opposed to the whole bolt/action, on a Savage, to add even more (e.g. magnum .532 rim size) calibers.

Jim K
November 16, 2006, 08:51 PM
OK, Mountain Bear,

You said "rechamber" and I answered on that basis. If you are going to rebarrel, that opens up a more possibilities limited only by the action length.

You obviously know better, but a lot of folks ask about "rechambering" a .30-06 to .45-70 or "rechambering" a .375 Mag to .308. Just can't be done.


November 16, 2006, 09:14 PM
Sorry Jim, I'm still figuring out a lot of the technical lingo. I don't start the machine shop section of gunsmithing school for a couple of weeks yet.


June 23, 2010, 08:15 AM
I have a Remington 788 in .308 Winchester. (I own 2 of these BTW)
I am thinking about rebarrel to 6 mm Remington. My question is will I need to modify the bolt face to accommodate this round? From what I read above if I change to a .243 it will not be necessary.

Also if you have any input on barrels that would be great. I am looking at trying to use a shorter 22" varmint taper barrel from PAC-NOR with a 1 in 9 rate of twist.

June 23, 2010, 09:20 AM
Welcome to THR, Bowser.

The 6mm Rem uses the same bolt face as the 308, and when handloaded, easily out performs the 243.
PAC-NOR barrels have a good reputation, and a 1in9" twist is good to handle nearly all available bullet weights in 6mm, but I would opt for a 24" barrel.
I would say go for it, you wont be disappointed.


June 23, 2010, 11:21 AM
Thanks for the input. The bolt face was pretty much my only concern with the change over but I knew that I could always fall back to the 243. I am looking at using a Hornady 87 grain V-Max. What are your concerns with using the 22" inch barrel vs the 24" as you suggested. I am trying to make the gun some what compact and several of the factory guns come with a 22" barrel. This gun will be used for some white tail or varmint hunting but will probably kill more paper than anything @ 100 yards. I have several guns of different calibers so I am not trying to make this my do all gun it just happens to be my latest pet project with a certain idea in mind when I started. But if it will not work or accuracy will be hindered severally. I obviously don't want to do it. This is the first time I have ever gone into this depth of changing this much stuff on a gun. I am going to a timney trigger, laminated stock from rifle-stocks.com and stainless fluted barrel with 1 in 9 twist from pac-nor as mentioned above.

June 23, 2010, 12:17 PM
For me, the 24" is just extra free velocity. If your choice is 22", it will work fine with a loss of maybe 50FPS over the 24".
I was only voicing my preference, and realize not everyone shares my reasoning.
No one can argue with your choice of components, and it should be a great rifle.


Jim Watson
June 23, 2010, 01:29 PM
The 788 magazine for 6mm is different from the .243/.308 box. Add $38 to the project.

I don't know if the magazine well in stock and action is different or not. But you should.

June 23, 2010, 01:32 PM
Strictly speaking a "rechamber" means to cut a new chamber for a cartridge of the same caliber as the original barrel. This would limit you on a 243 to 243 AI or possibly 6mm Remington or 240 Wby IF your action was long enough to handle a longer case.

If you have the option of rebarreling, then you can use a lot of different cartridges:

250 Savage
260 Rem
338 Federal
358 Win

These are the short action cartridges, if the action is long enough you could go to the 7x57 family or even the 30-06 family. Lots of choices.

June 23, 2010, 02:55 PM
"Any intruiging suggestions?"

The .473" headsize includes a LOT of factory cartridges plus a really LOT of wildcats. What you're asking would require a long look at a good loading manual; I'm to lazy to do that for anyone.

June 23, 2010, 03:04 PM
I was thinking the same thing.

IMO: Anyone going to gunsmith school should already have done the necessary reading to build a backround knowledge of stuff this basic a long time ago.


June 23, 2010, 03:47 PM
Well, its been three and a half years, his profile says he is a gunsmith and he is still active on the forum. Maybe he will drop by this thread.

June 23, 2010, 04:14 PM
Bowser, the guy who reactivated the old thread, has started a new one.


June 24, 2010, 01:01 PM
IMO: Anyone going to gunsmith school should already have done the necessary reading to build a backround knowledge of stuff this basic a long time ago.

For what it's worth, ballistics and cartridge design were not my strong point at that time (I was a month into gunsmithing school, forgive me for not knowing everything or where to find everything). I was trying to plan some projects. At the time, I had never reloaded, and didn't own a reloading manual. Since then, my library and experience has grown and I know better than to ask a question like that. Instead of getting valid opinions from people who have practical, real world experience, I get flak from people who insist I should already know or must be lazy for not checking a manual that I didn't own...

My general specialty is in handgun/armorer work. I still play with the occasional custom rifle, but always end up dealing with some jerk who thinks I should know everything. I asked an opinion and some guy like you assumes I must be stupid because I don't already have the answer. This is why I prefer to do armorer's work rather than full blow gunsmithing. I can avoid people like you.

February 12, 2012, 12:47 AM

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