Questions about 1911 parts


November 17, 2006, 08:57 PM
I have a 5" RIA, and wanted to add a few features that didnt come with.

It seems the Wilson beavertail jig is easier to use than the Brown. Is this in fact true? It seems that it takes all the "art" out if it, and makes it error proof. The only problem is that I dont know if the jig advertised for wilson, will in fact fit the wilson beavertail (or ducktail, whatever). It says you need the 298 model, but only the 402 is listed.


Ive been told the Kuhnhausen's 1911 book is good, so ill have that too.


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November 18, 2006, 01:15 AM
Check out .

Has everything you ever need to know about 1911s.


November 18, 2006, 10:03 AM
I looked at their site before, but then I joined the forum and searched, found some of my answers:cool: thanks.

But I am still wondering the difference between the jigs. Anyone with experience with both?


November 18, 2006, 01:36 PM
The 298 is still available from Wilson.
The radius is different between the two, so the correct jig is critical. The 298 used the old compound radius of the Clark which Wilson purchased and repackaged as his own back in his early days in the business. I've not installed the 402 as I usually use the Brown or King GS, but I'm told that it uses the .250" radius of the Brown. Call the Brownell tech support guys and they will walk you through the correct jig for your choice of beavertail.

November 18, 2006, 08:34 PM
Thanks, I didnt think wilson did direct ordering.

Any opinons on ease of use?


November 19, 2006, 07:22 PM
Just to confuse you, I vote for the Smith and Alexander jig. Super easy to use, available from Brownell's. Gives you the correct .250 radius. Highly recommend it.

November 20, 2006, 12:03 AM
Ease of use on the jig really depends on the beavertail to be installed. A Brown or similar requires more removal of material to get it to mate well with the frame. An S&A still uses the .250" radius but doesn't sit as low in the hand so it doesn't need as much removed. I haven't personally fitted a Wilson, but from what I have read they don't need much to be removed to fit well.

Good beavertail fitting takes practice and is not easy. However, it isn't that difficult to do it better than most production makers.


November 20, 2006, 03:32 AM
Just FYI. I have a Rock Island .45 and its had a few things added to it.

STI match trigger and guide rod
Wilson hammer and beavertail

Of course I let the prefessional do the work.

November 20, 2006, 06:54 PM
Thanks for the info on the S&A, I assume you mean the is less blending than with the brown.

DG, Im tempted to take it to a smith, but just because im scared of messing it up.. I bought it to try my hand at home gunsmithing. I have solice in knowing it will look better than a drop in, but dont expect it to look like a prof job (but that is what Im striving for).

Thanks for all the help.


November 20, 2006, 08:54 PM
I don't imagine you will have much trouble if you take your time and read everything on the subject. Like I said, you can't make it worse than the production makers do now.


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