Revolver question


December 24, 2002, 08:44 PM
I am pretty new to the world of handguns just got my permit last week and before that it was a crime to even look at one funny:( So today I was using a friends GP100 at the range and when I went to drop out the spent brass I would get one or two that would stick in the wheel. Is this normal in revolvers, and if so how can one be used as a defensive weapon?

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December 24, 2002, 09:05 PM
Umm, just to make sure we're both on the same page. You did push the ejector rod? That's the rod that sticks out the front of the cylinder. BTW, that "wheel" is properly called a cylinder.

December 24, 2002, 09:18 PM
Assuming you pushed on the ejector rod, did the ones on top drop in front of the ejector star. If so, tilt the gun up and give the rod a swift stroke, so they all drop clear.

If one or two are sticky, the chambers may need cleaning. There's also a chance the ejector star is out of alignment on a couple of chambers. In that case, the cases might be binding. Usually in revolvers with that problem, you have to give the ejector rod a hard push, and the cases fly free. If everythings clean and lined up, it takes a very light push on the ejector rod to empty the cylinder. Just a little puzzled. :confused:


December 24, 2002, 09:27 PM
I like to empty with the muzzle elevated, stroke the ejector rod smartly full travel, then lower the muzzle to reload.

Elevated muzzle with brisk ejector rod action helps throw the empties clear and minimizes the chance of unburned powder or other debris getting between the star and the cylinder.


December 24, 2002, 09:39 PM
Were you shooting .357 cartridges in it? Thinking it could possibly have .38 Cal rings in the cylinder. Have also had that problem with S&B ammo .. casing expands and becomes hard to eject.

Just a couple other ideas to think about.

December 24, 2002, 10:13 PM
OOPS don't I feel like a freaking dumb SOB. And NO I didn't use the ejector rod. Damd guess and idiot like myself can learn something new everyday LOL.

December 24, 2002, 10:19 PM
Don't beat up on yourself.

Learnin takes doin, tryin and askin.

Besides, twas one of the easiest problems to fix in a long time.:D


December 24, 2002, 10:38 PM
Your right Sam. But still very stupid. And it's my pleasure giving an easy one :D

December 24, 2002, 10:51 PM

Am amazed that the gun owner didn't go through the manual of arms with you before letting you shoot it.


December 24, 2002, 10:59 PM
Peetmoss, I would like to make a few comments.
First, you need some training on that revolver, how to shoot it right, safety and so on. Many places offer it. Try a local shooting range. They will help.
Second a related topic, I have had problems out of those bullets that have aluminum casings. I can't recall the name of them right now, but I'm sure others on the board will help out with that. Those aluminum casings almost always get stuck in my revolvers also. I'd stick with brass casings.:)

December 25, 2002, 12:17 AM
Originally posted by 4thHorseman
I have had problems out of those bullets that have aluminum casings. I can't recall the name of them right now, but I'm sure others on the board will help out with that.

CCI Blazers have aluminum cases, I am not fond of them either.

Brass .357 mag cases stick in my S&W 360, while nickel cases drop right out. There may be a solution out there, but I just use nickel cases in it : )


December 25, 2002, 01:21 AM
There's one danger point on a revolver you should know about. If you look at one from the side, you'll see a small gap between the cylinder and barrel, about .006", depending on fit and wear. This is the cylinder gap. Some gap is necessary so powder fouling doesn't bind the cylinder. Naturally, some hot powder gas, unburned powder and possibly bits of lead escape though this gap. They hurt, so don't let your left hand, if you're shooting right handed and using a two hand grip, get ahead of the front of the cylinder. Don't let anyone stand in line with the cylinder gap when you're shooting.

You can quickly convince a bunch of 12 year old students about this. Tell them to watch for the flame as you take one shot. (This doesn't work in bright sunlight or with some powders.) Then fold an old target in half, drape it over the revolver like a tent and pop one into the backstop. By the time the target comes down, with the sides blown out, they understand. Thanks for the tip, Dave.


December 25, 2002, 10:41 AM

I've shot thousands of rounds of CCI Blazer in nearly every caliber they make, never a hitch.
S&B (in .357 cal) have given me nothing
but trouble (brass splitting and/or expanding).

Bottom-line: Use what works for you!

December 25, 2002, 11:22 AM
Second the S&B problem. Shooting .357 a pain- unable to even push the ejector rod down- i had to tap it down with something hard to get the cases out. I won't buy them again even for cheap target ammo.

December 25, 2002, 11:38 AM
What is S&B? Never heard of them. Are they a local brand?

Marko Kloos
December 25, 2002, 11:50 AM
What is S&B? Never heard of them. Are they a local brand?

S&B is Sellier & Bellot, a Czech ammo company. I've bought S&B in multiple calibers for years, rifle and handgun, and never had a problem with them. Never used S&B in .357 Magnum, though.

December 25, 2002, 11:59 AM
Now the that issue has probably been resolved, there's one more thing to check for. If you're shooting lead bullets (LSWC etc) it's possible to get lead between the cartridge case and the cylinder wall. You effectively solder the case to the cylinder. Once it cools and contracts it will free up, but it's a good reason to ensure the cylinder is clean. I had this problem with a S&W Mod 28. Another reason I don't shoot much lead in fast movers.

December 25, 2002, 05:10 PM
As for training with a revolver I couldn't agree more especially in the area of acctually shooting technique. I am so used to scoped rifles and shotguns open sights just throw me for a loop.

As for safety I think there is never to much training in that area. I do however think that I am safe.

December 25, 2002, 06:51 PM
Congratulations on becoming a handgunner!
You have a lifetime of joy, learning and consternation ahead.

The best single piece of advice I ever received about shooting (as opposed to handling) a handgun was: FOCUS ON THE FRONT SIGHT.

December 27, 2002, 08:55 AM
Have an H&R 939 that you could not get empties out of without using a hammer to tap the rod.
A gunsmith finally advised me to use to #400 paper and lightly sand the very end of the chambers.
From that point on, no problems.

December 27, 2002, 09:18 AM
CCI's tend to stick also.

December 27, 2002, 09:46 AM
Last check. Did anyone (like the owner), shoot .38 specials out of the gun before you shot it? .38 spl (shorter case) leaves fouling that will cause .357 cases to be sticky. Easy way to figure this out is, was it easy or not to load the .357 into the cylinder. If they didn't just drop in cleanly, this might be the problem. Easy fix is a thorough cleaning of the cylinder that gets rid of all fouling. Lots of solvent and vigorous use of a brass bristle brush. If that doesn't do it, stronger methods, like a lewis lead remover, or a copper solvent like shooters choice, will work (depending on whether lead or jacketed bullets have been fired).

This also remedies fouling from .357 loads too, so a really good cleaning is the cheapest, easiest fix for sticking cases in a revolver. If that doesn't work, then you look at other things. There are lots of things, like shooting really hot loads, too tight a crimp, etc., that lead to higher pressures, which over expand (for lack of a better term) the fired case, or worse. Like someone already said, it really shouldn't take much of a push on the ejector rod to get fired cases of 'normal' .357 loadings out.

A clean gun is a happy gun. (Disregarding the benefits of shooting a 'dirty' gun that has been function checked before combat, or a target gun just before competition).

December 27, 2002, 01:12 PM
FWIW, I have also heard some bad things about S&B recently. I haven't had any problems, but others have. Splitting cases, apparent overcharges, etc.

I haven't had any prob's with the "super aircraft aluminum" Blazers, I like them when I don't get a chance to police the brass well.

December 27, 2002, 01:44 PM
From my experiences, S&B works well in my KP-90 Ruger (.45acp), and the new Springfield Santy Claws left for me. Haven't used any S&B in my .357 Vaquero, though.

Blazer works in all my guns, but it is just that.....Blazer. Had more apparent muzzle flash with Blazer that with S&B/PMC/Win WhiteBox. Also, the Blazers were a bit 'Sticky' in the Vaquero.

Bottom line, find what works in YOUR weapons.

December 27, 2002, 09:04 PM
I have had pretty good luck with S&B in 9mm. But S&B in .38 special has had some problems. I have run into case heads that were too thick to allow the cylinder to revolve.


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