Ejector broke...


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The Deer Hunter
December 3, 2006, 07:41 PM
So the ejector to my turn of the century break barrel 16GA broke the other day. It just fell out, broke right in half.

What would be the best way to repair it?

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Jim K
December 3, 2006, 08:57 PM
Unless you mean the 2000-2001 turn of the century, I strongly recommend you retire the gun and buy something newer, even if the barrels are solid steel and not Damascus.

Depending on exactly what broke, it might be welded but it would take a very good and careful welder to avoid ruining the part completely. The part could also be made, but that would be very costly. Even for a common (at that time) make, finding an ejector that would fit would be nearly impossible, especially for 16 gauge.

Jim

Chawbaccer
December 3, 2006, 10:48 PM
Why don't you check Numrich for a replacement.

The Deer Hunter
December 4, 2006, 08:51 PM
Whos numrich?

Jim K
December 4, 2006, 09:04 PM
George Numrich was the former owner of Gun Parts Corp. (www.gunpartscorp.com) and some folks still call the company by that name.

In order to get a part from them, you would need a make and model number, and I get the impression you have neither for that gun. Most of those hammer doubles were "no-name", many were foreign, and parts just are not available. If the gun should happen to be an expensive or rare gun, making the part might well be worthwhile. If, not the gunsmith's bill will be more than the gun is worth.

While it may not apply to your gun, this may be of interest.

http://www.briley.com/articles/grampas_shotgun.html

Jim

The Deer Hunter
December 5, 2006, 08:47 PM
Its a single barrel 16GA. "armory gun co." in on the receiver.

Someone told me who made those but i forget now.

Jim K
December 5, 2006, 09:25 PM
Armory Gun Co. shotguns were made by H. & D. Folsom (Crescent) even though the name is not on the list on that web site.

I stand by what I said. There are no spare parts. The gun is of minimal value and, in my opinion, it would not be worth spending time to try to locate an ejector or having one made.

If you know a good welding shop, it might be fixed, but there would be no guarantee.

Jim

1911Tuner
December 6, 2006, 09:04 AM
This-> http://www.briley.com/articles/grampas_shotgun.html
was an excellent link, and thanks for posting it.

I've seen a damascus shotgun barrel that came "unwound" and it's not pretty.
Rust between the strips was apparently the main cause of the failure, but the
thing that made the biggest impression on all who saw the gun was that the
edges of the strips were as razor sharp as a long chip from a twist drill in some places. Not where you'd have wanted your hand when it came apart...not to even mention the blowdown escape of the gasses and pressure at the point of failure. It literally splintered the forend and caused injury to the shooter's hand, though he got extremely lucky and didn't wind up permanently maimed. He had inherited the shotgun from his grandfather, and only knew that it was 16 gauge.

Those old shotguns are best hung over the fireplace so that everybody can speculate on their histories instead of trying to use'em to recreate the glory days.

Jim K
December 6, 2006, 01:12 PM
A man brought an old Damascus double into the shop one day, telling everyone how strong it was and that he had no problem shooting modern loads in it. I advised him very strongly to hang it on the wall. A few weeks later, he came in with a bandaged hand, and I asked him, "How many?" He knew what I meant and told me he had lost two fingers and part of a third. He told me, "I wish I had listened to you."

Not only are those barrels weak, but the pressure curve of smokeless powder is different. Black powder pressure peaks early, but smokeless pressure stays high past the thick part of the barrel, and it is at the point where the barrel thins that they usually let go. Of course, that is right where the shooter's hand is, so when they do go, pieces of the hand often go along.

Tuner is speaking the truth and deserves listening to. I have sectioned some of those old barrels that blew up, and while the outside looked good, the inside looked like Chantilly lace. The barrels were so raddled with rust and corrosion that I easily punched one through with an awl. But just looking at or looking through the barrels, they seemed OK.

Jim

The Deer Hunter
December 6, 2006, 09:22 PM
Its not damascus by the way.

mete
December 6, 2006, 09:58 PM
There is good damascus and poor damascus ,and even fake damascus ! But they should all be handled with great care .Putting over the mantel is a good place for most of them....Older guns in general are often made of soft materials and not made for even significant target use ! There was one fellow who had his father's old and not well made gun and insisted in using it for trap. I couldn't convince him otherwise so it was repaired and something else broke.That was repaired and again something else broke .After many repairs he finally saw the light !!

Jim K
December 7, 2006, 02:10 PM
The movement to solid steel occured around 1880-1900. But many of the best guns were made with Damascus barrels even after that, as it was considered the mark of a good quality gun; one writer of the period even said something to the effect that using a Damascus barrel gun was the sign of a gentleman.

But Deer Hunter has said his gun does not have Damascus barrels, so that is not the issue. To me, the question is whether the gun can be repaired at a reasonable cost. There are no parts available, and I think that making an ejector would not be cost effective - just too high a percentage of the value of the gun. Deer Hunter, I suggest taking the gun to a gunsmith and getting an estimate. That way, you will have some basis for making a decision. You might also look over similar but more modern guns.

Jim

The Deer Hunter
December 7, 2006, 04:23 PM
I see no need for a gun that doesnt work. How much could it cost to have two pieces of metal welded back together?

Sleeping Dog
December 8, 2006, 09:42 AM
Welding may not cost much, once the steel is identified and matched (or something close). Then because some welding material was added, it'll need to be filed/stoned to fit. Then probably heat-treated. Maybe blued or parked to match, if aesthetics matter.

A gunsmith should be able to give you an estimate for the total job, then you can decide what you want to do. If it costs more than the gun is worth, it may still be a good move if the gun has sentimental value and you still want it functional. It's not always about pure economics.

Regards

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