I think I have my equipment in order, need double check.


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Nickodemus
December 5, 2006, 10:54 PM
I have never reloaded before and know no one with real practical experience to show me, however I did watch a video and put the basics together. The rifle I want to reload for is a Winchester Model 70 Stealth II with a Burris 6X HBRII scope mounted on Leopold rings. The barrel is 26” long with a 1:10 twist. All I have to shoot in it at the moment is this box of hand loads I bought at a show.
http://img105.imageshack.us/img105/5121/dsc00149yc6.jpg

I “broke it in” at the range and was not overly impressed with the accuracy, I hope it gets better since later I cleaned out a lot of copper. I shot 60 rounds of factory Winchester 55GR ballistic silver tip. Now I have those 60 cases, the 20 handloads, then 150 bulk Winchester cases I bought, for a total of 230 available cases.

I need to know what else I have to get to begin reloading. This is what I have so far:
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/7039/dsc00151sv2.jpg
Tumbler with modification to hold case for trimming
Lee Powder Scale
Primers – standard large rifle
Dies – RCBS .223WSSM (have 30-06 also; will reload that at later date)
two Lee Auto-Primers
two sets of universal shell holders
Digital Micrometer
Chronograph
Aerosol case lube
two Lee presses
Powder measurer
Deluxe Deburring tool (can I trim case neck with this?)
Hodgon H4831SC powder

I think I still need, and would like any suggestions for:
Projectiles – I am punching paper, not hunting.
Shellholder for .223WSSM (universal kit doesn’t have one to fit it)
Bullet puller
More cases?

After this next order of supplies, I want to be set up to begin reloading, so if I am missing something please inform me. I do not want to shoot out the barrel early, so I am going lighter on the loads. Thanks for advising me.

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qajaq59
December 6, 2006, 07:59 AM
You didn't list one or more loading manuals. If that isn't an oversight, I would definitely add buying and reading several of those to what you need. There is better then a 100 years of info in them that will help you.

Walkalong
December 6, 2006, 08:40 AM
Manuals?????

"Manuals, we don't need no stinking manuals" - NOT
( Oh yea... it was badges not manuals. ) "The Treasure of the Sierra Madre" Awesome bogie movie.

loadedround
December 6, 2006, 10:32 AM
As the others have said the most important accessory you need is one or more reloading manuals. Your 22WSSM shell holder is available from Hornady or RCBS if Lee oesn't carry it. A bullet puller is very handy for tearing down any mistakes you may have made. A chamfering tool is not designed to neck trim cases, only to chamfer the inside case mouth for easier bullet seating and to remove burrs on the outside of the case mouth. This is done only one time on new cases, or after you have to case trim long cases. You can never have too many empty cases. Good luck!:)

Ben Shepherd
December 6, 2006, 11:25 AM
Safety glasses! If you ever need them, you'll be very glad you had them!

cracked butt
December 6, 2006, 11:58 AM
Loading block - its a tray to hold your cases during various stages of reloading.
You can make them by drilling wells into a piece of hardwood using a wood spade bit and a drill press, or you can buy them for about $5 a piece.
I use two of them.

Manuals are very important.

Case trimming- I'd reccommend a lee case trimmer system, it consists of a cutter, a lockstud and a case guage specific to the cartridge you are using. The entire case trimming systemwill cost you $10-12.

longrifleman
December 6, 2006, 12:48 PM
One thing I have found helpful is enough ammo boxes to keep different loads separate, and to keep your brass organized ie, once fired, twice fired etc. I use stuff from Midway mostly, as it is available in different colors and sizes and priced pretty reasonable. When I started, I used plastic baggies but they tend to break at the worst possible times. I think everything else has been covered well.

Nickodemus
December 6, 2006, 09:03 PM
Thanks for the suggestions guys,
I did not list the literature that I have. I only have a skimpy reloading manual that came with the powder, some equipment manuals, but nothing specific for this cartridge. Should I buy specific manuals for each caliber or a larger more encompassing book? I don't ever mind spending money on books, if you all suggest an efficient one.

I do have a loading block that I over sighted listing; it is the red and green thing in the photo. Unfortunately the half inch diameter .223WSSM doesn’t fit the holes, but 30 cals sit nicely. I guess I could bore them out wider.

It sounds like I need to get a case trimmer; I do have new brass that will probably need cutting.
I have many shooting safety glasses and also lab goggles, but I didn’t think to wear them for this. It’s good to be safety conscience.

So now here is my updated list:
More brass
Quality reloading manual/book
Lee case trimmer
Ammo boxes (I am going to build a small shelving structure onto the bench as well)
Bullet puller (any model suggestions)
Projectiles (Will I decide this from the reloading manual? Any grain weight suggestions for my velocity/barrel twist & length)

Does that seem to complete what I need? Thanks again folks!

SUBMOAS
December 6, 2006, 09:18 PM
Stoney Point O.A.L. guage.
If I read right you are a paper shooter. This will help in finding the true O.A.L on your cases.


http://www.tjgeneralstore.com/stoney_point_gages.htm

KHawk
December 6, 2006, 10:36 PM
Nosler, Hornady and Sierra have loads of interesting info that has taken years to accumulate. I own all three. But the manuals that I keep on my workbench are the calibur specific books. These have data and loads for your cal. that is taken from all of the other sources. I load 5 different cals and have a book for each.

Chawbaccer
December 7, 2006, 07:09 AM
You need a pair of calipers to see how long the cases are. And I suggest you get the all encasing manuals, I like Lymans and Speers, they have a wealth of information in them.

Doug b
December 7, 2006, 10:03 AM
Nick current load manuals will teach you alot but I'm betting you won't find much data for the .223 wssm in them, www.hodgdon.com will get you started.Click data tab> click rifle tab>click .223 wssm in the whats new menu.
My experiance with 1 in 10 twist in my bushmaster .223 has been it will stabilize everything up to and including 69 gr. bullets you'll need a faster twist for the 75 and 80 grain bullets.
Keep me posted with your progress as the .223 wssm will be my next buy,4,000 fps start loads have to be like shooting a laser.

Nickodemus
December 7, 2006, 05:02 PM
New to the list: OAL gauge
I own a digital caliper made by Frankfort Arsenal. Should I still get an OAL gauge? What exactly does this gauge do? I can sum my bullet length and case length before assembly, then subtract from that the length of the finished cartridge and get my seating depth, right? Would this procedure accomplish the same? Generally, is the OAL gauge worth $40?

As I read it the load data on that Hodgdon site is for a 1:8, 24” barrel. Does it matter that mine is 26” and 1:10? Can I use this data even though the powder mass to velocity will differ with my longer barrel? From this data I can use the powder I have for listed 55gr, 60gr, 69gr, 75gr, and 77gr. I pick 55gr HDY V-max, any thoughts on this one? I have a chronograph that will read anything from 22 to 7,000 fps, and it is precise. I used to play A LOT of paintball and I found it a necessary piece of safety equipment to own. (300fps max for a paintball, most people set at 280fps to avoid spikes over 300. Not a flat shooter by any means, but what you’re throwing is more like water balloons then bullets anyway.) I can check my velocity and adjust my loads accordingly, so I was thinking I should start pretty low and maybe with a little math work up to 3600fps. I’ll try and find a load specific manual. My bullet pick doesn’t have to be super lethal, just a good shooter.

Yes I am punching paper, which is what is available for me to do since I live in city limits and must shoot at a range. I do prefer “plinking” with buddies and occasionally perforate junk on friend’s private property. I am in FL and our game is limited, when I hunt it is hog and I use no gun, but dogs. Fortunately I have friends who are more into it then I am, so they get to splurge on the kennel and such, and I get the privilege of tagging along whenever I want, and it can get exciting! It’s enough for me; I don’t feel the need to annually blow a hole in one of our scraggly little Florida deer. I was hoping that this rifle/cartridge combo would be a real tack driver for bench shooting, without getting into an expensive custom target rifle. I shoot well but at this time I do not do any competition. If I am able to get it sub-MOA I will be happy to post all my data and procedure.

Thanks for the help again, I really appreciate you all eliminating my doubts.

Doug b
December 8, 2006, 08:33 AM
The money spent on an oal gauge is money well spent imo, it will save time and headaches.I also recommend Stoney Point with the comparator set so you can measure oal from the base of the caseing to the bullet ogive, a more consistant location than the bullet tip.Checking www.sinclairintl.com you'll have to get a modified case made for your wssm but no big deal dirt cheap,also Sinclair sells the inserts seperately you don't have to buy a whole set.
The data for a 1in8, 24" barrel will work for your rifle,just start with suggested start load and work your way up watching the pressure signs.Varget might be a good second choice powder to try.
As for bullets shoot them all and let your rifle be the judge.

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