Kodiak 260


PDA






atf163
January 22, 2007, 07:22 PM
My brother inherited this rifle from my grandpaw and it really needs some TLC. Rifle in question is a Kodiak Model 260 .22wmr, #13***. I really need to replace the bolt, springs, and a few other parts and would like to know if there is possibly some sort of breakdown guide or manual. Also, I haven't been able to find out too much about the manufacturer except that they were in business only a few years, so any info from that angle would also be greatly appreciated.

If you enjoyed reading about "Kodiak 260" here in TheHighRoad.org archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join TheHighRoad.org today for the full version!
Steven Mace
January 22, 2007, 09:16 PM
atf163, here is some information on Kodiak rifles:

Previous manufacturer located in North Haven, CT circa 1963-66.
Kodiak Co. was in business for only a short time. They produced the first .22 Mag. semi-auto rifle (Model 260), as well as a centerfire bolt action (Model 158 Deluxe), and a slide action shotgun (Model 458). While Kodiak long guns are rare and extremely well made, collectability to date has been minimal with most specimens selling at a slight premium over similar quality trade name counterparts of that era. Prior to 1963, Kodiak firearms were marketed under the trade name of Jefferson.

Reference - https://store.bluebookinc.com/download/Category.aspx?product=GUN&id=563

I would recommend visiting Numrich Gun Parts Corp. at the link below for replacement part.

http://www.e-gunparts.com/products.asp?chrMasterModel=7380z260&MC=

Hope this helps!

Steve Mace

atf163
January 23, 2007, 01:27 AM
Thanks for the info Steven Mace, but something is still bothering me. Of all the photos of the rifle I've scrounged up, not one shows the same type bolt as my brothers. On my brothers rifle the charging handle was made of plastic and attached directly to the right side of the bolt with the proper cut in the reciever to cycle the action; the plastic handle has long since broken off and needs to be replaced. Anyway, in the other photos I've seen, and the only rifle I've seen on Gunbroker, the charging handle is on the left side of the rifle forward of the reciever and was made of metal. Could my brother's rifle be an earlier production model, and if so is Numrich the only place known to still sell parts for this particular firearm?

http://gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=64239342

SDC
January 23, 2007, 12:10 PM
Have you disassembled your brother's rifle at all? It's conceivable that it originally had the cocking-handle on the left side, but that it broke early on, and, rather than try to find a fairly rare part, it was modified to a bolt-mounted cocking-handle. If nothing else, the stock should show a slot where the left-side cocking-handle SHOULD have gone. :confused:

SgtMaj
January 23, 2007, 03:17 PM
I have the same Kodiak 260 - 22mag with the cocking handle as part of the bolt with the reciever machined for it. Just for grins I checked the left side of the forearm stock and there never has been anything modified. I don't know what any of this means other than the fact that our rifles have not been altered.

If you ever do find any information, drawings or schematics please let us know because I inherited mine also and got nothing with it except a half box of bullets. It is a good shooter WHEN it does fire. The trigger has a problem and is intermittent. I never know if it will fire or not because sometimes the trigger feels like the safety is on and won't move at all.

If you would like to see what it looks like, I can take a picture of the receiver with the cocking handle and try to post it on here for you.

Regards,
SgtMaj

atf163
January 23, 2007, 06:07 PM
I've disassembled and cleaned the rifle before when my brother wanted me to look at it. The rifle is original, no modified/missing parts, just plain worn out and in need of repair. I've left a couple of messages over at Numrich about their parts but no response yet. Also, I talked to my uncle and it turns out that Grandpa bought the rifle new in about '65 and it was used fairly often without any problems.

atf163
January 25, 2007, 10:54 PM
SgtMaj, does your rifle's bolt handle also have a recoil spring and guide rod attached to it? I've never seen my brother's rifle with rod or recoil spring attached to the bolt.

See link...

http://www.e-gunparts.com/DisplayAd.asp?chrProductSKU=174770&chrSuperSKU=&MC=

MGB
January 31, 2007, 11:40 AM
Gents,
Some of this you have already heard, but........
I have found out a bit about this Kodiak 260. First off it was made some time between 1963 & 1966. It is stamped KODIAK, North Haven, Conn. USA Model 260 .22 WMR. No S/N. The butt plate has four circles like a target. It is tube fed and it is the first semi-auto 22 magnum. Kodiak made this in a 22 LR too, and also made a centerfire bolt action rifle (Model 158 Deluxe), and a slide action shotgun (Model 458). While Kodiak long guns are rare and extremely well made, that does not necessarily mean valuable (yet). Collectability to date has been minimal with most specimens selling at a slight premium over similar quality trade name counterparts of that era. Prior to 1963, Kodiak firearms were marketed under the trade name of Jefferson. Colt sold the 22 version under the name Colteer. Some of the Colteer parts work on the Kodiak magnum.

I found that info about Colt selling them a bit humorous as during this same time period Winchester made a 200 series of tubular magazine .22lr & ,22 WMR's. The 22lr's were 250 lever action, 270 slide action, & 290 semi-auto. The 22 WMR's were 255, & 275, no 295 semi-auto. This Kodiak is very similar to these in style and makes a nice fit if you had a collection of them.

There were two styles for operating the bolt on these. One has a knob on the left side of the barrel similar to my old Winchester 22. The other has the cocking handle on the right side of the bolt similar to the Ruger 10/22. On the 22 magnum there is no spring on top of the bolt. The return / action spring is located in front of the receiver under the barrel and the magazine tube works as a guide rod for it. On the 22 LR version (Colt Colteer) there is a bolt return spring on top of the bolt connected to the cocking handle very similar to the Ruger 10/22. Some of the cocking handles are black nylon some are metal. I have one of each. I do not have one of the left side cockers, but I have emailed a fellow that does. Numrich has in their Colteer section both styles of cocking handles w/ & w/o spring attached. I have been told that the one without a spring is the one that works on the Kodiak 260.

The following is info for my Kodiak:

To disassemble the Kodiak I start by removing the magazine tube plunger by sliding it all the way out.
Open the bolt and make sure it is clear then just leave it cocked.
Turn it over and remove the screw on the bottom and in front of the trigger guard. Then remove the trigger assembly housing from the bottom of the receiver.
Remove the screw on the bottom of the forend and slide the forend forward. Just as it clears the counter weight, you can lift it off.
Now remove the small magazine tube retaining screw from the magazine tube bracket.
Remove the magazine tube by sliding it forward away from receiver through the forend retaining bracket, action spring (remove the spring), and the counter weight.
Slide the counter weight, action bars, and bolt all the way to the rear, and just lift out the assembly.(sliding the bolt rearward, and out, etc.)
The cocking handle should just drop out from the top of the bolt then move it forward and remove it through the ejection port.
Remove the ejector plate from the side of the receiver.
To remove the stock remove the butt plate and the stock bolt beneath it.

Well that about sums up everything I know about this rifle. I can't wait to actually see how it shoots, and what particular type / brand of ammo it likes (hope itís the cheap stuff).



Regards,
MGB

SgtMaj
February 2, 2007, 08:30 AM
atf163...
Sorry it took me so long in replying to your post. However, I think MGB just might have answered your question. I know his post answered several that I had...Thanks MGB

Regards,
SgtMaj

MGB
February 2, 2007, 11:51 AM
Your Welcome it's my pleasure.

BY the way atf163, why do you think you need to replace the bolt? I only ask this because it seems like a rare thing to really need to do that. I think it is available but remember if it is from another year of manufactur it just may need some adjustment to fit right. I'd avoid replacing a bolt unless absolutely necessary. Always better to rebuild the one you have IMHO. Like I mentioned I have two of these and one is in darn near new condition and one needs a bit-o-work. That one shoots, but had some light hits and didn't fire. It ejected ok, but on one post I read someone said these 260's lose their extractors occasionally. I had that happen to me with a 10/22 once. There I was all sighted in on this big sage rat in eastern orygun, and click..... What the heck I look and all I see is the ejector spring hanging out of the bolt. Fortunately for the rest of the trip I had an old Winchester with me. If you don't have spare parts at least have a spare gun :p . Since then you better believe I have an extra spring, plunger, & extractor in my go box.

When I had this apart it looked like the hammer spring was rubbing hard against the sides of the receiver and were worn down a bit. This could be part of the cause of the light hits. Also I could just feel a worn area on the back of the firing pin. A little bit in this area can cause light hits. I had that happen with a 10/22 where everything looked fine and yet it had light hits. I replaced the firing pin and that solved it. Bottom line here is I have ordered several parts to deal with mu issues and ward off some that may come up. After all this is a present for my Marine when he gets home :D .

One part I need and cannot find is a mag tube retaining screw. I just happen to have a friend that has a fastener supply business and we are working on an answer to that. He gave me a 4-40 screw that I tried and it is small but the right size to go all the way through. Then he gave em a 5-44 screw that I am going to grind down all but a couple of turns by the head. Then rethread the rest of the shank to 4-40 and see how that does.

Here is my list of rebuild parts from Numrich some I need and some are just to have on hand:
firing pin, firing pin retaining pin, extractor - spring - plunger, hammer spring, hammer spring pin, throat assembly, trigger assembly, trigger bushing (2), sear, & Colteer nylon bolt handle w/o spring.

I also got a new butt plate, but instead of getting the Kodiak one with the circles on it they sent me a Colteer one with the Colt logo on it. If they don't have the right one I may use it an put the other one away.

There are many more parts available but I was only looking to replace the ware parts. Things like pins unless something is moving on them don't need to be replaced, neither do some springs if they don't reside under stress IMO. It all depends on the function and stress on parts. Inspection is the best test as to wether a part needs replacing. Two thoughts on that are if it works don't mess with it, and If it ain't broke fixit until it is :D

My 2 cents

MGB
February 4, 2007, 03:30 AM
Well I am getting smarter about this rifle. Last night I replaced the firing pin and hammer spring to cure the problem I had with the light hits. That fixed the problem. After disassembling the trigger assembly and putting it back together one gets smarter about things. There is this little spring under the trigger that pops out when you remove the hammer spring pin. The easy way to get it back in place is to remove the trigger and hammer then install the hammer spring and the trigger return spring on the hammer spring pin. Then install the trigger and hammer. Just to check that I had the problem resolved I pulled the bullets from a few rounds dumped out the powder and popped the primers. Got really stong hits on all of them.

Another thing I noticed was one of my 260's has this forend retainer at the front of the indside hollowed out area where it goes over the magazine tube. This supports and retains the front of the forend as it has a hole the magazine tube goes through. Guess I'll have to make one for the missing one. I thought it was strange that I could tighten the forend screw on one but if I did that on the other it would rub on the bolt counter weight.

I am sure I'll have more revelations as I continue to tinker with this toy.

Regards,
MGB

atf163
February 4, 2007, 03:41 PM
Thanks for all the info and updates MGB, I really appreciate it. I ordered a new bolt cocking handle, recoil spring, and a new mag tube assembly. The rifle seems to be in good working order now. Thanks for all the help guys :).

MGB
February 4, 2007, 10:15 PM
Your welcome, I think given the limited info on these it is improtant to get posted as much about them as possible, for the next guy like us that has been hunting all over and finding nothing.

GO BEARRRRRS, and todays my birthday :p :D I wonder how my wife got them to play the Superbowl today for just me??????

I tell ya she's a keeper :D

loachdvr
May 11, 2008, 09:56 AM
Hey MGB,

I have a Kodiak 260 with the left side bolt. Thanks for the history info and the disassembly instructions. I might add that the forearm on mine won't detach completly until you slide the tube magazine past the wood hole in the front of the forearm. Also, be careful when cleaning the trigger assembly, as there are two little springs (one on each side) in the aft portion that can pop out when hit with a toothbrush.

It was given to me about 10 years ago, and was taken well care of, as I don't see a single spot of rust.

A word of caution should anyone try to shoot 22 LR in this rifle. It will fire, but probably won't eject the shell casing, AND the next one in the chamber will most likely not feed correctly, causing a jam in the magazine well. (Sound like the voice of experience?? :)

MGB
May 11, 2008, 12:51 PM
Your comments are correct. There are some slight variations with this rifle, and those little springs usually only get out of position, depends on how hard you are scrubbing I'd guess. LOL

There is a great difference between 22lr and 22wmr starting with the diameter of the round. It does not surprise me that it would not eject since it was fire formed to the chamber by the expansion in the larger hole, and smaller rim for the extractor to grab. Then there is the bullet that went rattling down the barrel to who knows where. Just not a good idea at all.

Other than that it is a fun gun to shoot, just do it safely:

THESE ARE 22 MAGNUM ONLY NO ONE SHOULD SHOOT ANY OTHER ROUND IN THEM! that's a good way to get hurt.

MGB

thefrosted1
July 8, 2009, 07:53 PM
I recently came into possession of a Kodiak model 260 .22 WMR. I did manage to put some rounds through it, and noticed that I had some extraction problems. It finally jammed and I took it back to my shop and started dis- assembly of the weapon and found that it still had two rounds in the magazine tube. Thanks to you, I think I will be able to put it back into proper operating order. God Bless America

MGB
July 9, 2009, 10:09 AM
Your welcome this is a fun gun to shoot and if you need any further info I'll be here to help if I can.

BTW to complement this rifle I now also carry an AMT Automag II. It is a perfect match since it is the first 22 mag semiauto pistol.

Regards,
MGB

WCP1
July 24, 2009, 02:17 PM
Gents,
Some of this you have already heard, but........
I have found out a bit about this Kodiak 260. First off it was made some time between 1963 & 1966. It is stamped KODIAK, North Haven, Conn. USA Model 260 .22 WMR. No S/N. The butt plate has four circles like a target. It is tube fed and it is the first semi-auto 22 magnum. Kodiak made this in a 22 LR too, and also made a centerfire bolt action rifle (Model 158 Deluxe), and a slide action shotgun (Model 458). While Kodiak long guns are rare and extremely well made, that does not necessarily mean valuable (yet). Collectability to date has been minimal with most specimens selling at a slight premium over similar quality trade name counterparts of that era. Prior to 1963, Kodiak firearms were marketed under the trade name of Jefferson. Colt sold the 22 version under the name Colteer. Some of the Colteer parts work on the Kodiak magnum.

I found that info about Colt selling them a bit humorous as during this same time period Winchester made a 200 series of tubular magazine .22lr & ,22 WMR's. The 22lr's were 250 lever action, 270 slide action, & 290 semi-auto. The 22 WMR's were 255, & 275, no 295 semi-auto. This Kodiak is very similar to these in style and makes a nice fit if you had a collection of them.

There were two styles for operating the bolt on these. One has a knob on the left side of the barrel similar to my old Winchester 22. The other has the cocking handle on the right side of the bolt similar to the Ruger 10/22. On the 22 magnum there is no spring on top of the bolt. The return / action spring is located in front of the receiver under the barrel and the magazine tube works as a guide rod for it. On the 22 LR version (Colt Colteer) there is a bolt return spring on top of the bolt connected to the cocking handle very similar to the Ruger 10/22. Some of the cocking handles are black nylon some are metal. I have one of each. I do not have one of the left side cockers, but I have emailed a fellow that does. Numrich has in their Colteer section both styles of cocking handles w/ & w/o spring attached. I have been told that the one without a spring is the one that works on the Kodiak 260.

The following is info for my Kodiak:

To disassemble the Kodiak I start by removing the magazine tube plunger by sliding it all the way out.
Open the bolt and make sure it is clear then just leave it cocked.
Turn it over and remove the screw on the bottom and in front of the trigger guard. Then remove the trigger assembly housing from the bottom of the receiver.
Remove the screw on the bottom of the forend and slide the forend forward. Just as it clears the counter weight, you can lift it off.
Now remove the small magazine tube retaining screw from the magazine tube bracket.
Remove the magazine tube by sliding it forward away from receiver through the forend retaining bracket, action spring (remove the spring), and the counter weight.
Slide the counter weight, action bars, and bolt all the way to the rear, and just lift out the assembly.(sliding the bolt rearward, and out, etc.)
The cocking handle should just drop out from the top of the bolt then move it forward and remove it through the ejection port.
Remove the ejector plate from the side of the receiver.
To remove the stock remove the butt plate and the stock bolt beneath it.

Well that about sums up everything I know about this rifle. I can't wait to actually see how it shoots, and what particular type / brand of ammo it likes (hope itís the cheap stuff).



Regards,
MGB
Your disassembly instructions for the Kodiak 260 were very helpful. However the one that I am working on has the left side cocking handle instead of the of right side cocking handle. Do you have or know of anyone that has the disassembly instructions for this model? The forearm will not slide far enough forward to clear the counter weight. Any help would be appriciated.

MGB
July 24, 2009, 02:51 PM
I'm sorry I do not have that information. Have you done a google search? I didn't find much info either I just figured most of it out.

One thing that I came across is that when removing the forend on one of mine it can be a bit tough as that plastic retainer can get hung up in the wood. Is there any chance that is what is happening to yours?

Can you post pics of it? What do you think it is getting hung up on?

Regards,
MGB

WCP1
July 24, 2009, 08:11 PM
I'm sorry I do not have that information. Have you done a google search? I didn't find much info either I just figured most of it out.

One thing that I came across is that when removing the forend on one of mine it can be a bit tough as that plastic retainer can get hung up in the wood. Is there any chance that is what is happening to yours?

Can you post pics of it? What do you think it is getting hung up on?

Regards,
MGB
Evididently that was the problem with the forend. I managed to get it disassembled, cleaned it and put back together and it functions as it should except for the firing pin. I have ordered a new one from Numrich GPC. I searched Google without luck and checked all my books on Assembly/Disassembly with the same results. Haven't taken any photos but will if you want them and I can figure out how to post them. Disassembly instructions and drawings are no longer needed.

Thanks for your response to my request.

Bill Pitts (wpitts8855@att.net)

MGB
July 24, 2009, 09:21 PM
Bill,
by all means please post them or email them to me and I will post them. This is important info for other with your style of 260.

Regards,
MGB

WCP1
July 24, 2009, 11:06 PM
Bill,
by all means please post them or email them to me and I will post them. This is important info for other with your style of 260.

Regards,
MGB
I will get some photos taken tomorrow and email them to you. Will need your email address. My email address is wpitts8855@att.net. I am new to the forum and have not figured out all the in's & out's of how to include photos, but I am working on it.

WCP1

MGB
July 25, 2009, 11:26 AM
Thank you, I will get them posted right away. My add is:
alpha924@hotmail.com

Regards,
MGB

MGB
July 25, 2009, 12:27 PM
Pics from WCP1

"The disassembly instructions are the same as you have written for the right handle model except for the bolt guide. The bolt handle is permanently attached to the counter weight bar."

102152 102153

102154 102155

102156 102157

102158 102159

Thanks for your info Bill I'm sure this will be a help to others.

Regards,
MGB

MGB
July 26, 2009, 01:19 PM
From WCP1

"Forgot to mention that the barrel is only screwed in hand tight and can be easily unscrewed from the receiver should you find it necessary to separate it from the receiver."

That might seem to be conveinent, but it is dangerious, as a loose barrel can change the head spacing and cause an accident. I made up a spanner wrench from I think it was a 17mm opened end wrench. Which ever one that fit the barrel best. Then tighened the barrel nut real good. Any tools you may need for working on this gun will most likely need to be made or pay way too much for them if one could find them.

Be smart be safe! KYPD

My 2 cents,
MGB

mickeytkd
July 30, 2009, 07:26 AM
Hello all,
Just came onto this site by chance. I too have just recently receievd one of these rifles which seems to be in excellent condition. A new question i have is has anyone mounted a scope on theirs?

MGB
July 30, 2009, 11:12 AM
By all means yes....... I'm cheap so I use a Tasco 2.5-10x42mm mil-dot with adjustable objective ($70). This scope is great for shooting ground squirrels.

Now the main issue with this is the mounting, you have to use the mounting grooves on the top of the receiver. These are standard mountings for .22's, so be sure to get the correct mounts. No matter how you tighten them the rings are going to slide a bit after shooting several hundred rounds. I have used red loc-tite in the groove to help put off the inevitable after all this is a magnum...... LOL

I really enjoy this gun when walking through a field shooting ground squirrels. You can have a pocket full of shells and after shooting several you can just flip it over and drop a few rounds in. You don't have to mess with loading magazines and swap them out, it is so simple to never run empty. Well unless there are just so many of them one can't load fast enough and the gun gets too hot..... Things can go sideways in a hurry, then it can get down to hand to hand combat..... all you have to remember is to keep the last round for yourself...... ;)

But ya scopes on these are ok.... :cool:

see post #8.

MGB

mickeytkd
July 31, 2009, 06:34 AM
Thanks alot MGB for the info. Was glad to hear I wouldn't have to do any tapping. I have no info in this gun and previous owner had passed away a few years ago and widow decided to just give away this gun and a few other rare ones for nothing. Of course i didn't ask if she had any manuals so I'm flying blind looking up info on these and this is how I came to this site. You guys provided alot of much needed info. Again thanks

MGB
July 31, 2009, 10:39 AM
Your Welcome friend, and if you have more questions we'll be here.

Regards,
MGB

rgee
August 7, 2009, 07:24 PM
I have a Weaver V22A mounted on mine, to my eyes the smaller 7/8" diameter scope complements the lines of the gun. My Kodiak seems to cycle standard velocity 40 grain rounds the best (Winchester Super X) but it will not cycle Dynapoints. Anybody have luck with any of the newer 30 or 33 grain rounds?

WCP1
August 8, 2009, 02:59 PM
Pics from WCP1

"The disassembly instructions are the same as you have written for the right handle model except for the bolt guide. The bolt handle is permanently attached to the counter weight bar."

102152 102153

102154 102155

102156 102157

102158 102159

Thanks for your info Bill I'm sure this will be a help to others.

Regards,
MGB
Found some more information on the Kodiak 260. Colt manufactured it as the COURIER, COLTEER and the STAGECOACH. Here are photos of the exploded view and the parts list, they are from an old NUMRICH GPC catalog that I kept for reference purposes and then forgot that I had it.

THese should help others a lot if you want to post them.

http://www.fototime.com/27288B1E6FDCFD4/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/DD4202974B5DA10/standard.jpg

WCP1

WCP1
August 13, 2009, 08:42 PM
Do you know how to remove the extractor from the Kodiak Mdl. 260 with the left hand cocking handle? The spring is weak and I need to replace it.

Thanks.

WCP1

MGB
August 15, 2009, 04:19 PM
I'd say it is the same as the others. Once the bolt is removed the extractor is acessable. It's been awhile since I took mine apart, I'd have to do that to actually give you any good info about it. However it seems that there are three parts; extractor, spring, & plunger. You take a small punch and push the plunger back through the hole in the bolt on the ejection port side and then the extractor will slide out of the slot in the side of the bolt. Be careful of that plunger and spring....... I seem to recall having to look a bit to find mine....... LOL

Good Luck,
MGB

JT 22 260
November 11, 2009, 01:21 AM
Hi i also got my Kodiak Mdl. 260 from my grandpa and also its kind of damaged what happen is he loaned it to someone that put 22 lr shells in the gun and broke it well i read all the good info on this forum but still i went to the NUMRICH GPC web site and i dont know what to order first i need the name of part of 2 plastic sides where the bullet slides and goes in the barrel the other part is where after you shot where the shell ejects from the gun if someone can help me it would be great thanks THR for all the good info

MGB
November 11, 2009, 11:29 AM
the first part you need is:
KODIAK 260 Throat Assembly, .22 Mag 54 & 55 937280 $28.95

Then you need either the ejector or the extractor depending on if you need the part that kicks the shell out of the gun or the part that pulls the shell out of the chamber.

Take pics of your repairs in progress and post them here.

Regards,
MGB

JT 22 260
November 12, 2009, 02:34 AM
quick question do you need a firearms dealer to order in Numrich and do you need the serial # cause i cant find it on the gun and i will take pix of gun in progress thank you very much

MGB
November 12, 2009, 10:47 AM
NO to both parts of your question. In general you only need the intervention of an FFL holder when you are buying firearms, or serialized receivers that constitute a firearm. Parts are no big deal. Full auto parts or silencers (class 3) are another story.
Most Kodiaks don't have a serial #.

NEVER give out more info on your hardware than is needed to anyone!

MGB

JT 22 260
November 13, 2009, 04:48 AM
here are some pix hope it works

JT 22 260
November 13, 2009, 04:52 AM
this are the pixs

MGB
November 13, 2009, 10:30 AM
From the pic of your bolt you need these parts:
KODIAK 260 parts @ Numrich Gunparts

109020
Item No. 174070B / Extractor / Retail Price: $8.45

109022
Item No. 77440C / Extractor Plunger / Retail Price: $3.85

109021
Item No. 174100B / Extractor Spring / Retail Price: $3.95

All appear to be in stock.

Take pics when doing the install.

Regards,
MGB

dbriddick
March 2, 2010, 02:20 PM
I am having a problem with the ejector on my new Kodiak 260.Is the ejector made for both the 22lr/22magnum? Mine could not eject a live 22mag round, because the lead was still in the chamber when the rim hit the ejector. there were 2 locations on the ejector body, so I filed away the one nearest the chamber. Now it will elect the live round perfectly, but some times it willnot eject the fired /empty case. I have a new ejector ordered, but it will be 2 wks befor it gets here. Can anybody give me an answer?

Thanks, and keep the answers coming
david_briddick@yahoo.com

MGB
March 3, 2010, 09:12 PM
I'm sure the ejector for the Colteer 22lr would not work in the Kodiak 260. I know I'm a bit thick headed (as many can attest to) but I didn't understand what you were filing on. Can you please either post a pic or explain more about what you did?

Where did you order your parts from?

Regards,
MGB

dbriddick
March 4, 2010, 01:16 AM
The ejector I am talking about came in the rifle, along with a damaged throat. The gun jamed when you would try to load it. I ordered new parts (throat parts R&L ) I did not at this time know about the ejector.after installing the new throat parts, I started trying to load the gun when I noticed the unfired round would not eject because the bullet wasn't being extracted far enough. The projectile did not clear the chamber, it needed about 1/4 inch. that is when I noticed the two notches on the ejector. standing a 22 lr and a 22 mag side x side I noticed the difference was about the distance between the two notches. Thus I filed away the first notch. the gun functioned perfectly by hand, but when it is fired the bolt does not go back far enough to eject the empty hull. I have a new ejector coming so I guess I will realy know when it gets here/ about 2 wks.

Thanks for the answer, and sorry I didnot explain better.
dbriddick

MGB
March 4, 2010, 10:55 AM
Thank you for the explaination, but did your ejector look like this?

116944

If so where were the notches you mentioned? It sounds to me like you had the wrong part to begin with.

Where did you get your parts from that they are taking so long to send to you?

Regards,
MGB

dbriddick
March 4, 2010, 11:30 AM
I can;t see your ejector very clear, however it does look the same . If yours has two notches within the last 1/2 inch it is the same. The parts are coming from Bob gun parts, in Arkansas. www.gun-parts.com/bob
He states that he is a one man operation, and has health issues. therefore he is covered-up in orders and does what he can. The parts I got did come just as he said. I was satisfied.

thanks again
dbriddick

Whellenman
March 6, 2010, 06:52 PM
Mine is the carbine version. Short barrel, strait stock.

dbriddick
March 30, 2010, 02:31 PM
I want to say I need an ejector just like the one pictured in the display of parts.I ordered one from Bob's gunparts In Royal Arkansas, but when I got it it was the wrong one. If you know someone that might have one, please let me know. Numrich Arms is sold out, and the part they show does not look right.

dbriddick

david_briddick@yahoo.com

MGB
March 30, 2010, 05:23 PM
I just checked Numrich Gunparts Corp. they are currently out of that part, but get parts in all the time. I'd check again in a couple of weeks. Other than that I suggest just the good o'l on line search for Kodiak 260 parts. Seems to me that there is another place that had a fair supply when I was looking but I don't recall it right now other than it was not where you got yours from. I am sure of that.

Regards,
MGB

dbriddick
April 9, 2010, 12:08 PM
MGB,
Thank you for all your help. I finelay got my 260 working.The problem I realy had was (ammo), I was using winchester 4o gr. hp. I bought a box of CCI 40 gr. hp. yesterday, went out this morning the gun worked flawlessly!!
Please pass this on it might help someone.

Again
Thank you
dbriddick:)

pvaught
July 6, 2012, 12:52 PM
Gents,
Some of this you have already heard, but........
I have found out a bit about this Kodiak 260. First off it was made some time between 1963 & 1966. It is stamped KODIAK, North Haven, Conn. USA Model 260 .22 WMR. No S/N. The butt plate has four circles like a target. It is tube fed and it is the first semi-auto 22 magnum. Kodiak made this in a 22 LR too, and also made a centerfire bolt action rifle (Model 158 Deluxe), and a slide action shotgun (Model 458). While Kodiak long guns are rare and extremely well made, that does not necessarily mean valuable (yet). Collectability to date has been minimal with most specimens selling at a slight premium over similar quality trade name counterparts of that era. Prior to 1963, Kodiak firearms were marketed under the trade name of Jefferson. Colt sold the 22 version under the name Colteer. Some of the Colteer parts work on the Kodiak magnum.

I found that info about Colt selling them a bit humorous as during this same time period Winchester made a 200 series of tubular magazine .22lr & ,22 WMR's. The 22lr's were 250 lever action, 270 slide action, & 290 semi-auto. The 22 WMR's were 255, & 275, no 295 semi-auto. This Kodiak is very similar to these in style and makes a nice fit if you had a collection of them.

There were two styles for operating the bolt on these. One has a knob on the left side of the barrel similar to my old Winchester 22. The other has the cocking handle on the right side of the bolt similar to the Ruger 10/22. On the 22 magnum there is no spring on top of the bolt. The return / action spring is located in front of the receiver under the barrel and the magazine tube works as a guide rod for it. On the 22 LR version (Colt Colteer) there is a bolt return spring on top of the bolt connected to the cocking handle very similar to the Ruger 10/22. Some of the cocking handles are black nylon some are metal. I have one of each. I do not have one of the left side cockers, but I have emailed a fellow that does. Numrich has in their Colteer section both styles of cocking handles w/ & w/o spring attached. I have been told that the one without a spring is the one that works on the Kodiak 260.

The following is info for my Kodiak:

To disassemble the Kodiak I start by removing the magazine tube plunger by sliding it all the way out.
Open the bolt and make sure it is clear then just leave it cocked.
Turn it over and remove the screw on the bottom and in front of the trigger guard. Then remove the trigger assembly housing from the bottom of the receiver.
Remove the screw on the bottom of the forend and slide the forend forward. Just as it clears the counter weight, you can lift it off.
Now remove the small magazine tube retaining screw from the magazine tube bracket.
Remove the magazine tube by sliding it forward away from receiver through the forend retaining bracket, action spring (remove the spring), and the counter weight.
Slide the counter weight, action bars, and bolt all the way to the rear, and just lift out the assembly.(sliding the bolt rearward, and out, etc.)
The cocking handle should just drop out from the top of the bolt then move it forward and remove it through the ejection port.
Remove the ejector plate from the side of the receiver.
To remove the stock remove the butt plate and the stock bolt beneath it.

Well that about sums up everything I know about this rifle. I can't wait to actually see how it shoots, and what particular type / brand of ammo it likes (hope itís the cheap stuff).



Regards,
MGB
Hey, what are the parts called in those two pictures on the right hand side for the Kodiak 260? I am trying to find a replacement peice for mine for the long part that has the two arms connected to the tube-thingy but Numrich does not have pictures so I don't have any idea what it is called.

pvaught
July 6, 2012, 12:54 PM
this are the pixs
What is the name of the part in your 180KB picture. I need that as a replacement part because one of the arms on the assembly is broken and I don't feel comfortable welding it.

MGB
July 6, 2012, 06:52 PM
As near as I can tell they are part of:
Bolt & Inertia Block Assembly, .22 Mag, Product No. 937110, $94.90

I don't see the individual parts of this assembly listed.

Regards,

MGB

Scott Wolf
July 9, 2012, 08:35 PM
I have the Kodiak 22 wmr that is listed in the Kodiak dealers Magazine and have a question. The guns are not serialized but there is an h19 or 61h depending on how it is read at the end of the barrel just before the model and manufacture markings. does anyone know what this signifies?

MGB
July 10, 2012, 10:08 PM
Sorry I have no information on those markings. Perhaps someone else might.

Regards,
MGB

If you enjoyed reading about "Kodiak 260" here in TheHighRoad.org archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join TheHighRoad.org today for the full version!