S&W model 40 - help me ID??


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wahoojohn
January 26, 2007, 09:51 AM
I have a S&W J-Frame, model 40 Centennial (I believe). It's nickel, shrouded hammer, grip safety, wood grips. 5 shot. .38spl. Cylinder swings out. Serial # is 1705 - it's on the bottom of the grip and inside the cylinder.

How old is this gun and is it worth anything?

Here's two pictures. . .

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p175/wahoojohn/100_3116.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p175/wahoojohn/100_3118.jpg

Thanks for your help!

-John

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Gordon
January 26, 2007, 10:52 AM
Not worth anything , BUT I'll give you a quick $300 tp save me from getting a 2007 one thats case hardened!:D I think your gun is a 1947 one,not 100% sure though.

wahoojohn
January 26, 2007, 10:55 AM
Not worth anything, but you'll give me $300??

yeah, right!

Iggy
January 26, 2007, 11:38 AM
Yeh, nickle plated means it's a cheap re-do.. No doubt the barrel is worn out, it's missing a hammer.. Not worth much.. besides it's old...:evil:


PS. Don't believe a dammed word I said!!

I can't help you much with the value, but it is a very desirable revolver. If it doesn't have any family connection or history, and you do choose to sell it, don't let it go cheap....

deadin
January 26, 2007, 12:11 PM
SCSW 3rd Edition shows the Centennial as first produced in 1952-1974 in an original serial number series of 1 - 30160 Values shown are $325 for VG to $425 for Exc . (ANIB $650) with a 25 to 50% premium for nickel.

Dean

wahoojohn
January 26, 2007, 02:31 PM
thanks for your help.

Does the low serial # (1705) and no letter prefix indicate an early model?

How do I find out for sure? Contact S&W?

-John

wahoojohn
January 26, 2007, 07:43 PM
just added 2 photos. . .

Gordon
January 26, 2007, 08:26 PM
Ah photos! Offer up to $400 for the extra screw! It IS transferable to Ca. and ME!:)

deadin
January 26, 2007, 09:03 PM
Does the low serial # (1705) and no letter prefix indicate an early model?

I would guestimate that it is early first year production. i.e.1952. The only way to find out for sure would be a factory letter. This would also confirm if the nickel is original.

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