Removing Marlin 336 rear sight Properly


February 11, 2007, 01:40 AM
I am putting a Lyman tang sight on my 336cb and the instuctions say its a good idea to remove the rear sight.

Whats the proper way to remove it without damageing it? I see it in a dovetail, but do you just take a brass punch to it or is there a special tool?

thanks for any info.


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February 11, 2007, 03:53 AM
Isn't it held in place with a screw? IIRC that is how mine was secured.

February 11, 2007, 07:49 AM
Mine knocked out with a brass punch. I suggest a filler piece to save the dovetail and prevent a few snags.

February 11, 2007, 11:56 AM
Same here, used a brass punch and filled the dovetail with a blank from Brownell's. Don't forget to stick the rear sight and elevator in a little envelope and write "Marlin 336" on it, so you remember what you took it off of after it's been sitting in a drawer for a few years.

February 11, 2007, 06:39 PM
The first part of the advice was easy. Logan got the hard part right. :D

February 13, 2007, 12:48 AM
Got a blank on order with Numerich. As soon i get the Tang sight it in, I will drift the rear out.

Thanks for the input.


Fred Fuller
February 13, 2007, 07:17 AM
Remember- out from left to right, in from right to left. Glad you ordered the filler, it looks a lot neater that way.


February 13, 2007, 07:53 AM
I mounted a receiver sight on my 336. I found the aperture on it high enough to clear the sight on the barrel if it was put at the lowest elevation. I left it on figuring I'll have backup iron sights. You might want to try this.

February 13, 2007, 01:26 PM
Can't argue with the method as described. A padded vice will help a good deal, though.

FWIW, while the slot blanks make for a 'cleaner' profile and protect the dovetail from harm there's another option worth considering, IMO. One of the little folding leaf open sights from Lyman or Marble's of the proper height makes a very unobtrusive and functional 'back-up' in case of damage to your primary sighting system. The Marble's model with built-in windage adjustment is especially handy on rifles where you switch loadings a lot, and all are priced at less than $20.

Some folks may discount the value of the 'suspenders-and-a-belt' approach, but it's saved more than one hunt for me over the years. When you haven't traveled with a back-up rifle, an extra aiming device pre-installed and sighted-in can save the day should your scope, etc. get buggered-up in transit, only to be discovered when you arrive at camp.

February 13, 2007, 06:36 PM
My only issue with the folding sights is that they don't generally stay folded for me, at least on my 1895 .45-70. Might work better on a .30-30.

February 16, 2007, 11:29 AM
In my own experience this has happened more with the stock fold-down open rears on my Marlin 1895G and 39M than the Lyman folding leaf on one of my 10/22s or the Marble's units on my Marlin 336, Norinco ATD, or Savage 99F.

The 336 is from the early '60's and got one to replace the non-folding stock rear when the William's FP was mounted. It stays put nicely with factory .35 Rem. loads and my moderate practice handloads. The original was replaced with one of the newer W&E adjustables a few years back, and it's been perhaps even a bit more secure.

My Savage wears a scope with a rather large (42 mm) objective bell. As the comb height of the factory stock made it tough to get a consistent cheek weld when high rings were used, and the bell wouldn't clear the open rear with medium rings, I removed it and installed the folding leaf. It saved an expensive out-of-state hunting trip for me when some ham-handed airline baggage gorilla managed to mess-up the internals of my original scope to the point where it wouldn't hold zero at all. If it hadn't been there, I'd have been pretty much SOL, turning a long-anticipated and saved for hunt into an very expensive camping trip.

FWIW, the springs on the little folders seem to run a bit stouter than the ones on Marlin factory opens do. With no elevator ramp or long spring-tempered steel 'body' to resonate and transfer vibration to the leaf, they tend to stay put better, IMO.

February 16, 2007, 12:15 PM
carefully slip a thin shim (playing card, etc...) between the sight and he barrel so you don't scratch the barell as you "drag" the steel buckhorn sight horizontally accross it.

I didn't buy the plug and have had no problems.

The plugs are black annodized alluminum, so your going to have a discontinuity regardless.

But then again, I'm not going to "run through the jungle" with it.

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