[John C]

How much powder do you put in the priming pan of large horse or sea pistol? While we're at it, how much do you put in the priming pan of a musket or large bore rifle? I'm assuming that the amount would be different in a small pistol or rifle.

Thanks!

-John

[.38 Special]

I don't know anyone who measures, so can't answer in terms of weight or volume or such.

Simply put, it depends on the size of the pan. Some people like a pan full of powder, others like 3/4 full or less. Regardless, if the gun has a large pan you will use more powder. If smaller, less. In my experience, large bore muskets tend to come with larger locks/pans/etc. than smaller bore guns, but not always.

Hope that doesn't sound trite, but it's the only answer I know.

[Burt Blade]

As a general rule, fill 1/3 of the pan with FFFFg, and you want that on the end of the pan away from the touch hole.

I put the powder in the pan, close the frizzen, roll the gun so the pan is down, and give it one good tap. This gives me a nrear perfect prime every time.

If you get one of those brass priming flasks that delivers a measured priming charge, get the smaller one unless you are priming something like a military musket.

[oneshooter]

The ammount used dependes on the size of the pan. On a properly set up flintlock there should be no more than 1/2 of the pan filled. By propelry set up I mean that the touchhole is of the proper size, at the same lvel as the top of the pan and centered on the pan. A large musket lock will use more priming than a small pistol lock. Hope this helps.:D

Oneshooter
Livin in Texas

[Steve499]

My small priming horn has a push spout I got from Dixie years and years ago. You push it down once into the pan and it drops a small amount of powder. One measurement works fine in my squirrel rifle. If I had a musket it might take two but I think less is more, sometimes. I guess I could actually weigh the amount it throws if you want, but maybe just a look at it will tell you better.

Steve

[oneshooter]

Most of the priming flasks throw a 3 grain charge. The larger ones throw a 6 grain charge.

Oneshooter
Livin in Texas

[.38 Special]

Slightly OT, but I disagree with the folks who insist that less-than-full is the only proper way of doing things. My experience has been that a properly sized flash hole (.078" or thereabouts) drilled into a very thin cup and then used with a pan full of powder is quicker and more reliable than any other setup.

Obviously there are experienced men who have different opinions, but at the least I can promise that "My way is the only correct way" folks are full of beans on this one. :)

[oneshooter]

My way is NOT the only way. It is a method that has worked for ME. And a suggestion that MAY work for you. My advice is worth EXACTLY what you paid for it, and not a penny more.:evil:

Oneshooter
Livin in Texas

[Plink]

I use about 1/3 panfull, away from the vent. This gives me the fastest ignition. You'll need to tinker to with your priming horn to get it to throw the right amount. Mine throws 3 grains and 1/3 pan full is 2 grains. I'm going to deepen the pan though, so I haven't modified the spout yet, until I see if 3 grains will be right after I modify the pan. You might get lucky and be able to throw 1 spout full for the pistol and 2 for the rifle.

[JNewell]

Slightly OT, but I disagree with the folks who insist that less-than-full is the only proper way of doing things.
More is OK, but ignition time will be slower (depending on where the vent is relative to the pan) because the priming charge will have to burn down to the vent to ignite the main charge.

[Sistema1927]

In my experience, less is more.

Depending upon the weapon, I find that somewhere between 1/4 and 1/3 full works for me. YMMV, IANAL, NROE.

[John C]

Thanks, fellas. Everyone gave a different answer, but ultimately by describing their process I think I have a good picture.

One more question. For those of you that specified 1/3, 1/2, 2/3, etc.; what is the relationship between your priming powder charge and the touchhole? Perhaps this is the root of the difference that we're talking about? I can imagine that on the cheaper import replicas, there is high variability in the construction of the guns.

-John

[oneshooter]

At the risk of being flamed (again).

The top of the priming powder should be below the touchhole. As a general rule if it is above the touchhole there will be a "fuse effect" and a delay fire. The heat of the flash of the priming powder ignites the main charge, not the burn of the powder( does that make sense to you?)
Again the position and size of the flashhole makes a big difference in the ignition time.
I hope this helps.:D

Oneshooter
Livin in Texas

[.38 Special]

That was a flame? Whatever, mate. :rolleyes:

My point, again, is not that I AM RIGHT!, but that those who couch their touch hole/powder charge opinions as settled fact -- "More is OK, but ignition time will be slower" -- are incorrect. An absolute can be disproved by even a single example, and here I am. :)

After a great deal of reading and experimentation, I discovered for myself that all of my flintlocks -- yes, every one that I have owned -- are fastest with a large touch hole and a pan full of powder. I believe the "fuse" theory as popularized by Sam Fadala is simply a myth, although I could certainly be wrong. I have just never experienced it for myself, nor has it ever been explained to me in any sort of realistic way. If powder touching powder -- which is the way it works with a large touch hole and a pan full of powder -- is a fuse, then any charge loaded into the bore is also a fuse.

Ain't blackpowder fun? :p

[.38 Special]

BTW, a Ross Seyfried article set me on the path to exploring the touch hole/pan powder relationship, and can be read at http://www.98.net/ibha/flint1.htm

Have fun!

[oneshooter]

I refer you back to my last two posts.

Oneshooter
Livin in Texas