Old English Furniture Polish


February 16, 2007, 08:50 AM
Would Old English furniture polish be good for stocks?

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robert garner
February 16, 2007, 09:30 AM
Unless, you have a urethane finish?
There's little that would effect plastic!
I have several stocks that are finished in OTHER THAN urethane for easthetic reasons, and have used Olde English on for years. However and for about the last decade have been using a mixture of Linseed oil,Beeswax and turpentine.
Over time this builds up into a water-resistant finish that enhances the looks of a fine stock, and even mil-surp rifles.
The formula I use is one part each,melt the wax(careful here) add turps and
linseed oil,pour up into jars or tins and let cool. It will reach the consistancy of
shoe polish,which will liquify as you rub it in, hope this helps
p.s. avoid boiled linseed oil, as it is not the same as our grandfathers used and contains lead.

February 16, 2007, 09:49 AM
Ohh Man Old English....My dad use to make me clean the outside of his (then mine) rifles with a rag of oil for the metal, and a rag and some Formby's lemon wood polish for the wood. When I got older I used Old English on some of my wood stock. It does make the wood very pretty and shiny and probably protect the wood well BUT it makes the wood a little slick. DO NOT use it on a wooden pump shotgun, I got a nice little blood blister when my hand slipped off racking the pump of an overly polished shotgun. I also would not use it on anything that you considered your primary defensive weapon. I always use Old English if I'm going to store or sell something with a wooden stock.

Other than that I don't see a problem with it, just use a little, not a lot.

Mal H
February 16, 2007, 11:38 AM
Old English "Scratch Cover" does an excellent job of hiding those little nicks and scratches everyone will get on their furniture, both firearm and household type.

I don't see how they stay in business, because you will need to buy only one bottle since it will last a lifetime or more. In fact, mine was passed down to me from my father, and I still have over half of it left!

February 16, 2007, 11:50 AM
Ditto on the Old English w/scratch cover. I used it just last weekend on a Marlin 22 mag I'd bought. It had a pretty good boo boo on the stock. I thought at least the O.E. would make the blemish dark. But after I worked the polish in, a person who didn't know the flaw was there, would be hard pressed to find it.

February 16, 2007, 12:43 PM
robert garner ...

I too use the linseed oil, min spirits/turp, beeswax mix to treat my stocks. I've been doing it for years, but was unaware of the difference between linseed oil "now and then" ( nor the lead content in BLO :what: that's the worse part ) Sounds like it is regular linseed oil from now on for me... Thanks for the HU.

Vern Humphrey
February 16, 2007, 05:18 PM
I've used Old English for a long time -- I have a pre-64 Model 70 Winchester, for example with all the varnish worn off by hard hunting in tough conditions. It looks great after a treatment with Old English.

February 16, 2007, 07:46 PM
OK--the old stuff were talking about was 'raw' linseed oil. Boiled linseed oil is more of a solvent and contains less water. The lead caution is out there--but I don't know how high that content is (or honestly) what the source is.
Don't eat it or use it to finish eating utensils and it's probably not so bad --or at least not worse than shooting itself in terms of exposure.

Use gloves and be more 'sparring' than you might be with raw. It is really only appropriate for an unfinished (non-sealed or varnished) stock. If you get too much on and have it congeal and get sticky, rubbing alcohol and steel wool (0000 only) will take the 'goop' off.

I'm not a woodworker by any means. One caution--keep the linseed off the metal and direct contact areas.

February 16, 2007, 09:38 PM

My wife uses the "red" kind on the stock of her SKS, and it works beautifully.

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