Question on Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil?


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BsChoy
February 26, 2007, 11:23 AM
Can you cut this with mineral spirits or something to make it lighter in color? If so will it take the get protective properties out of it? Want to refinish my Garand but am looking for a slightly lighter color and want something more permanent than BLO or Tung which from what I have read requires reapplication.

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Jackal
February 26, 2007, 12:04 PM
I have never noticed Tru Oil altering the color of the wood. I have refinished about 10 stocks with it and they are always the same color after finishing, only they appear more rich and deep in color.

VietVet 67-68
February 26, 2007, 04:06 PM
Leave it as is , it will give you a great stock finish.

Keith

LHB1
February 26, 2007, 04:14 PM
+1 on using TruOil as is. TruOil is my choice for stock finishing. Have used it on many rifle, shotgun, and pistol stocks since 1964. It does NOT contain a dye and the wood's natural color shows thru the final finish with some enhancement from the oil. If you thin the TruOil, it will NOT lighten the color of stock below the present wood color. Only time I thin TruOil is for brushing into newly cut /recut checkering so it won't block up in the small grooves of checkering.

Good shooting and be safe.
LB

Plink
February 26, 2007, 05:09 PM
Thinning it won't change the color any, but it does make it easier to work with. I find it a bit too thick, so I thin it with 30% mineral spirits. It works great.

BsChoy
February 26, 2007, 05:26 PM
I am surprised that it won't lighten the color...it would be thinner therefore in my thinking it would lighten the color?? I have used it on a mauser before and the would wasn't much lighter than the M1 I am working on now but it came out pretty light without thinning. Well I appreciate the replies but I think I am going to try it and I will report my findings. Thanks again

dfariswheel
February 26, 2007, 08:21 PM
Here's a better oil finish than linseed oil, tung oil, OR Tru-oil.
It's far more waterproof, looks great, and only has to be done once in the lifetime of a stock.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=240961

cheygriz
February 27, 2007, 01:01 AM
I used Tru Oil in the past and really liked it, just as is. But after a semi-professional stockmaker told me about stock finishes from Brownell's, made by Laurel Mountain Forge, I haven't used Tru Oil, or anytrhing else. The Laurel Mountain forge sealer and oil is GOOD STUFF!:) :)

BsChoy
February 27, 2007, 01:51 AM
I used the TruOil as stated above cut 50/50 with odor free mineral spirits. I rubbed it in until my hand got hot from friction. Let it sit in front of the heater (not too close) for 45-60 minutes. Buffed with 0000 steel wool before each coat and after the last. You were all right :) it was the dark wood color not the oil. This was all after running the stock through the pots and pans cycle in my dishwasher last night! It took most of the small dark dents out and even though the gun looks a little lighter I know its marginal and due to the fact that it is pretty clean. For the money and ease of this finsh I will probably not use anything else but I have said that before! Thanks guys!

Zullo74
February 27, 2007, 09:27 AM
Oh Boy BSCHOY! (I couldn't resist)

Dishwasher is NOT for wood! Read this from the CMP web site......

http://www.odcmp.com/Services/Rifles/wood_cleaning_article.htm

"6.1 Stripping Off the Old Finish and Other Debris: Walnut and birch are easily worked with, but not cheaply and take some labor if you want a nice job without making a chemical mess of the wood. Any product or procedure that includes water is not appropriate for refinishing rifle stocks. The oven cleaner and dishwasher versions of cleaning stocks are not appropriate. Water, chemicals, and hot water are the death of wood fibers and any cartouche marks on the wood. Wood in many respects is a bundle of straws held together by glue. The active ingredient in Easy-Off Oven Cleaner (sodium hydroxide) attacks the natural wood glue (hemicellulose) holding the wood fibers together. Left on long enough, it will even attack the individual wood fibers. Even more problematic when unintended is that Easy-Off requires rinsing with water which raises the grain of the wood and requires sanding to remove the feathers raised. A dishwasher’s water and heat have the potential to swell wood fibers so much that the metal will not fit back in. Oven cleaners and dishwasher detergents chemically alter the wood fibers and remove natural oils in the wood. A lye like compound may be left in the wood to later leach out if damp and attack the metal placed against it.

Minwax Antique Furniture Refinisher, synthetic stripping pads, a stiff toothbrush, and a kitchen vegetable brush will get all the old finish off of the hand guards and off of a walnut or birch stock while putting needed natural oils into the wood and keeping the grain flat. Every bit of the stock, inside and out, should be cleaned with the Refinisher including the butt stock kit holes. It is actually good for the wood. Use something like a 3” deep 4” by 10” steel pan to catch the Refinisher that runs off so that the customer can keep applying it. It will run down the wood as the work progresses into the pan to reuse.

The directions on the can should be read carefully before use. The can clearly indicates the Refinisher must be used in a well ventilated area. The fumes should not be inhaled."

BsChoy
February 27, 2007, 11:10 AM
Zullo check out the CMP forum there are guys doing this left and right and nobody is complaining...getting the trigger housing back it was a little harder but not unmanageable and the stock looks great. To each his own I think when it comes to methods...beside its the perfect excuse to the wife to get a new replacement if I ruined it anyway :D Besides it only had 2 whole cartouches on it anyway and nothing in the rare realm. If it had really nice cartouches and some more history I probably would not have done it.

Zullo74
February 27, 2007, 12:10 PM
OK do it your way. I tried to give you info from the CMP. Like you said "To each his own".:)

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