Kel-Tec P-11 Trigger Pull


March 7, 2007, 10:41 AM
I've had my new Kel-Tec for a few months now, and it has been reliable in respect to firing and ejecting, It is just the size pistol I wanted, works with all three weights of 9mm, but I just cant get adjusted to that strong 8.5 lbs trigger pull. In disassembling it, it seems simple to get a lighter trigger pull by changing the spring. The problem here is that I haven't found any lighter springs available, and not being a firearms design engineer don't know if the lighter spring would guarantee reliability in firing. The only places I have checked for springs is Wolff and Brownell. Does anyone have ideas on changing out springs on this pistol?

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March 7, 2007, 08:38 PM
Before trying to change out the spring, you should try the V-pin mod. Well known to Kelteckers, you just bend a paperclip to have a sharp V in the center and replace the retaining pin with it. The main spring is held by the V which reduces the preload on it.

Works to reduce the pull a bit while still allowing reliable ignition. My pistol has had this mod for 3 years with no problems.

Also, you might look at the Wolff extra-power firing pin spring as it increases the drop safety range to over 8feet, from the 4feet or so for the stocker.

Aside the V-mod, there isn't a lot you can do to reduce the pull weight....which really isn't bad for a DAO pistol. Some dedicated practice to strengthen your shooting muscles will help make the pull feel lighter.

Dry snapping a double action revolver can really help build up the muscles. Try 100 snaps per hand as fast as you can do them. Keep practicing once or twice daily until you can do the 100 without slowing down. Then, the P-11 will feel like nothing to shoot!

March 7, 2007, 09:09 PM
Yeah I see what you mean by the V-clip. Shortens the trigger spring so lowers the pull in pounds. really don't have that much trouble pulling the trigger it's just that I have four revolvers, a Python, a Trooper Mk III, a Webley MK VI and a pre-war S&W M&P and these are nothing compared to the pull on the Kel-Tec.

I had originally planned to buy a Glock 26 but many on the forum warned me that if I was going to carry without a pocket holster not to get the glock. I didn't take into consideration that since I never carry a round in the chamber it really doesn't make that much diff. I'll try the v-clip and see what happens. I can always trade it on the G26. Trades are expensive tho.Thanks for the advice.

March 7, 2007, 09:52 PM
First of all, the DA on the P11 isn't that bad, the weight. The length is a bit long, but the action is much smoother than most revolvers including the Smith's I've owned. DA takes practice. If you're not willing to practice, why carry a gun in the first place? You get used to the long trigger on the P11 and the little stage at the end of the throw helps with accuracy, I've found, and doesn't deter rapid double taps.

I always carry condition one. Jackin' a round into the thing when I need it is too much time, not an option for me. My P11 rides in a pocket holster (you should always carry in a pocket holster) loaded and ready. That's why I carry a long trigger travel DA gun, ready to go, one up the spout. In the pocket, the hammer is down, no way it's going to fire unless you pull that long trigger. That's the whole purpose of DA, safe carry while carrying with it loaded and ready.

Perhaps you should think about a M642 Smith and Wesson revolver for pocket carry if you're too paranoid of condition 1 carry with a DAO auto. Really no difference in safety, though. Both guns are inert so long as the trigger isn't pulled. You wouldn't carry a revolver unloaded and toss in a speed loader if you needed to use it, would you? With a Glock, yeah, I'd consider condition three, but not a true DAO autoloader like the KT. That's the whole purpose of the design, to be safe with a round in the chamber. If you want to pocket an auto and don't like the P11's trigger, try one of the Kahrs or a Kel Tec PF9, lighter, shorter triggers.

With the P11, practice makes perfect. Mine is 3.5" accurate at 25 yards off the bench. I can routinely mow down the 6" plates at that range off hand, always get all 6 with a mag full, though I usually miss once or twice especially if I push for speed. We have some pepper poppers that I practice on, about 1/2 human size. Move in to about 15 yards and it's a little more realistic. I can knock 'em down about as fast as with any of my revolvers from the pocket and I get 11 tries instead of five.:D Usually only takes four, though.

March 8, 2007, 08:11 AM
McGunner, I don't know how old you are but I've probably had more practice with a revolver than you have with a knife and fork.

And on the practice of carrying condition one, in the several times a firearm has gotten me out of a very bad situation it wasn't a quick draw and fire situation. I don't play cops and robbers games in my mind, anticipating situations that have very little chance of materialising. If it happens, it happens.

But we've both gotten a little off topic, haven't we? Have a nice day.

March 18, 2007, 08:50 PM
I know that this is an old thread but I am replying in case someone else has the same problem. I had a problem with stiffness and a rough trigger pull on my PT11. After 500 rounds, it wasn't much better as I thought it should be so I called the factory. The had me send it back. In about 10 days after I shipped it to them, I had it back with a much smoother trigger at no charge.

It felt as though there was a lighter trigger pull but it could have just been the overall smothness after them working on it. I was told that the action job they do has been known to lighten the trigger pull up to about 7 lbs. but I don't have a trigger pull guage to check it. Whatever they did, it worked.

Now, if I can just figure out how to keep the darn thing from rubbing my thumb joint raw during a range session.:cuss:

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