[ghettofab]

I have recently fitted a smith and alexander high ride grip safety to a full size springfield mil spec. In the process of radiusing the frame tangs, I have either overcut one of them or the fitting jig/safety is uneven. At any rate, a small gap about the thickness of a sheet of paper exists between the right side frame tang and the safety for about 10-15 degrees of rotation from the top of the tang. I would like to ask about filling this gap, as no gap whatsoever exists on the opposite tang. I was thinking about silver solder, as I have no access to a welder. I am unsure as to whether parkerizing would adhere to the solder, or whether it would survive the heat of a bake on finish. Sorry for being long-winded, and I do appreciate any responses.

[Jenrick]

No clue if solder will park. I do know that depending on how hot you need to get the frame certain solders will melt.

Brazing or fill welding are going to be the two best options. Both will use a filler metal that will not melt when heated to a reasonable degree. Neither of those however are something you just buy the tools for and do. If you've got a shop in your location that does costum fabrication of small items they can probably do a decent job. I'd personally have them just fill it in, then clean it up myself, rather then have them grind/file it down.

-Jenrick

[ghettofab]

thanks, Jenrik, I'll look into brazing and welding, or perhaps I'll learn to live with the gap, maybe I'll call it "dirt clearance"

[GeorgeR]

Parkerizing is done at about 200 degrees, but won't adhere to anything except carbon steel. In my experience.

[dfariswheel]

Bluing or parkerizing will not work on either silver solder or brazing.

Silver solder will not work since it melts and runs and you can't really use it to build up areas.
Since it's an alloy of silver, parkerizing will not color it.

Brazing is difficult to use to build up with, and since it's a brass alloy, parkerizing won't color it either.

Parkerizing only works on carbon steel.

Your best bet is to find a good welder, or better still a good welder/gunsmith and have the area built up with Tig welding.
This is a very clean weld that shouldn't affect the heat treating if the welder does the job fast with fine wire.

However, since the metals will not be the same and for other reasons, you will likely be able to see a slight color difference between the frame and the new metal after it's refinished.

Depending on circumstances, this will be more or less noticeable.

[ghettofab]

Thanks guys. Assuming I can get some metal to stick, would it be noticeable through a bake-on finish? And, I know this is going to sound "bubba", but would it be possible to build up the area with jb weld or some sort of steel epoxy prior to a bake-on finish? In addition, will bake-on finishes adhere to parkerized steel?

[dfariswheel]

A bake-on finish will cover most anything, since it's really just a form of paint.
In that case you could use brazing, but in a tight joint like that, the moving grip safety will quickly wear the coating off, exposing the brazing or what ever is under it.

Originally parkerizing was developed to be used as an undercoat for paint, and paint adheres nicely to it, AS LONG as the parkerizing is thoroughly degreased.
The rough bead blasted surface gives the paint a good "tooth" to bond to.

JB weld will adhere..... for a while, then it too will wear away and start flaking off.

[GreenFurniture]

Send it to CCA in Knoxville.

They can fix it and coat it.

Ends your troubles.

[HSMITH]

EGW, fixing your problems for 20+ years that I know of.

If I have a gun welded on EGW is where it is done. Period.

I have screwed up a few, bought a few more that were screwed up, George at EGW can make Milk Duds from Goat *****. I kid you not, pun not intended.

[1911Tuner]

Having seen one of George's weld repairs a couple years back...I hesitate to call it "welding" because it looked more like he "thought" the repair onto the gun. I couldn't tell that it had been welded...and I looked hard. I think he must be some kinda Jedi knight who makes things happen through the power of the Force or somethin'.:cool:

HSMITH...+1. If I ever need any welding done, that's where it's headed.

[ghettofab]

thanks everyone, I'll probably go with welding. I appreciate all your help.

[mrmeval]

Welding would be the better and more long term option. Solder can be blackened which is done for SXS and O/U guns.

Strongest non weld would be to solder or bond a shim in place, it can be done well enough that the solder or bond is not easily visible. JB Weld is a variant of metal impregnated scotch weld, if you want high heat resistance you'd need a more expensive version of 3M scotch weld.

[Jim Watson]

gap about the thickness of a sheet of paper

If that is all, then it is just a cosmetic flaw. I'd leave it alone until I was ready to fancy the gun up a lot more, if and when, then have it welded and remachined. Right now, go shootin'.

[Bret4207]

If you just want a cosmetic repair on a parkerized finish, I would think JB Weld would be the ticket. Then you can save your bucks up to have it done right later. You also might try a different beavertail to seei if it's that and not the frame thats mis-shaped.

[ghettofab]

I appreciate your responses guys. Say, mrmeval, might you be able to tell me what kind of shim you're talking about? A wafer-thin strip of steel sheet? I agree that it would work, but as I said, the gap is so small that I'd probably file right through it re-fitting the safety. Let me know what you think. Also, will solder stick on its own, or would I have to rough the area first?

[Clipper]

There is a process called spray welding that only adds a few thousandths of material at a time. Machine shops use the process to build up worn shafts. Perhaps you could find a shop that can point you in the right direction...

[medmo]

"Weld & Re-shape" would be the traditional fix. Anything else should be labelled as experimental. Don't feel bad as this kind of thing happens. If it was my frame I would contact Jeff Mangum, (Magnum Precision), 602 200 0943. He is an expert welder and gunsmith.

[mrmeval]

A shim is just a spacer of the right thickness. If you must use a shim it would be one that is the same or close to the same material and is the same finish. You can get carbon steel or stainless foil An easier though expensive source for carbon steel is a feeler guage but you can find the same material by the foot at a machinist supply shop in several varieties. It's sold in strips and sheets.

Just an example
http://www.smallparts.com/products/descriptions/shss.cfm

It sounds like it's such a small gap that it's not worth the effort to try and use this method.

[RogersPrecision]

Looky here:
http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=163348

[mrmeval]

+1 Rogers Precision

Outstanding work! It always pays to pay the expert who paid dearly for the experience. :)

[ghettofab]

Thanks so much for all your responses. I think I'll try and live with the gap for the time being, as I have ordered a can of Teflon-moly oven cure spray that should help fill it in for now. Once again, I appreciate all your help.

[DeltaGunner]

Unless it's a show gun............ shoot it.
Brownells sells accru-glass with metal mixed in it, black dye too, works well for cosmetic cover ups along with it's intended purpose. Comes in a gel formless runny. I have used it with their bake on finishes.