[Monkey White]

Remember a while back Monkey traded his Hipoint compact for the TRS ?
First day at the range for the TRS:
*Monkey was very happy with the performance
-The accuracy was excellent.
-Recoil was almost to nothing, good.
*Monkey was very sad because 2 out of 4 mags didnt workout of the box.
-The slide didnt lock up after the mags were empty, could be the mag follower? Monkey does not know!
Now Monkey knows why my TRS came with 4 mags while the Hipoint only came with 2 mags.
-Monkey also learn that limp wrist plays an important role in accuracy. Monkey may have to practice more. With the Hipoint it was kinda hard to notice cause I did never hit a damm thing with it.
-UMC ammo is very dirty for monkey's gun, specially for the hard chrome one! It kidda hard to notice on monkey's ex Hipoint cause Monkey coulnt tell was it dirt, ash, burning powder residue or just the color of my Hipoint!



By the way, its my lunch time. Bananas? not again!


http://www.hunt101.com/img/048457.jpg

[Kahrma]

Are they all Wilsons?

Monkey around with would extra power mag springs and check the folower contact point for wear.

[Jim Watson]

A new TRS?
Raise Cain with Les, those guns are supposed to WORK and well they should at their price. Tinker with magazines after he brushes you off with recommendations of 5000 rounds "breakin" or some such nonsense..

[denfoote]

Monkey needs to feed his bear with Wilson mags!! :D

[Tom B]

Why does Monkey speak in third person? :uhoh: :D

[Tamara]

I'm still a little unclear on the "Traded my Hi Point for a Baer" thing.

Tamara thinks this may be a joke. :uhoh: :confused:

[Black_Talon]

I'm still a little unclear on the "Traded my Hi Point for a Baer" thing.

Tamara thinks this may be a joke.

Heck yeah it's a joke. Who in their right mind would trade a perfectly good Hi-point for a Baer? At least you can rack the slide on a Hi-point. :)

[Tamara]

I can rack the slide on my Concept III just fine, but then again, I'm a girl and all... ;)

[USMCsilver]

My buddy's TRS won't take Wilson mags. For some reason, the base plate, right at the front top where the little lip is, won't clear the groove cutout on the TRS.

Now, having said that, he uses the three that came with it and some old Colt USGI mags.

At first, those mags would not work either. So, to fix him up, I ground just a hair, off the inside of where the magazine locks up with the mag catch inside the gun. This was done to the top of the cut in the magazine.

As far as the slide stop not working, it is possible that the followers are worn down a bit or there is just not enough spring tension. It is also possible that the slide stop itself is not functioning correctly. You just have to tinker with it and see.

And Tamara, if you can rack a Baer's slide "just fine," I would assume that the gun has had a couple thousand rounds through it. My buddy's TRS is stupid tight. I mean, like, dangerously tight, IMHO. There is no need for a gun to be that tight and hard to operate...

[Tamara]

Nope, I got mine new. It's had maybe 500 rounds through it.

Lockup was a little snug, but not that tight compared to, say, my Springfield Pro.

Yank the slide like you mean it. ;)

[Sean Smith]

Yank like you mean it

:what:
:evil:

I don't have huge Baer experience (mainly just feeling them up at the gun store), and some were just "normal" tight and 1 was practically unusable it was so tight.

[1911Tuner]

Wanna make that Bad Baer behave and get happy? Here's how:

Use just a dab of 800-grit garnet lapping compound in the rails.
spread it evenly, just enough to barely see. Put the slide on
and hand-cycle it about 20 times. Remove the lap with some
Next generation carburetor cleaner. Advance Auto, a buck 75 a can.

Next, go buy some J&B Bore Cleaner and a small bottle of
CLP Breakfree. Put a tablespoon of CLP into a small cup,
and add the Bore Cleaner until you have a paste that
will sag off the end of a screwdriver, but not runny enough to
drip. Be sure that it's well blended...no lumps.

Apply the goop liberally in the rails, on the upper and lower lugs,
link, slidestop pin, on the sides of the barrel at the chamber
area, and a little in the bushing. Put just a dab on the
disconnector track in the center of the slide.

Hand-cycle the gun about 200 times with the recoil system out
of the gun....guide rod and all.

Rinse it out with the carb cleaner, oil the gun as normal, and
feel the difference. Go shoot it. It will be mucho improved.

The lapping compound is about 14 bucks a tub from Brownell's.

Cheers!
Tuner

[uglymofo]

Wanna make that Bad Baer behave and get happy? Here's how:

Use just a dab of 800-grit garnet lapping compound in the rails.
spread it evenly, just enough to barely see. Put the slide on
and hand-cycle it about 20 times. Remove the lap with some
Next generation carburetor cleaner. Advance Auto, a buck 75 a can.
Next, go buy some J&B Bore Cleaner and a small bottle of
CLP Breakfree. Put a tablespoon of CLP into a small cup,
and add the Bore Cleaner until you have a paste that
will sag off the end of a screwdriver, but not runny enough to
drip. Be sure that it's well blended...no lumps.

Apply the goop liberally in the rails, on the upper and lower lugs,
link, slidestop pin, on the sides of the barrel at the chamber
area, and a little in the bushing. Put just a dab on the
disconnector track in the center of the slide.

Hand-cycle the gun about 200 times with the recoil system out
of the gun....guide rod and all.

Rinse it out with the carb cleaner, oil the gun as normal, and
feel the difference. Go shoot it. It will be mucho improved.

The lapping compound is about 14 bucks a tub from Brownell's.

Cheers!
Tuner


....and there ya go! Now you've got a gun that's finished with the attention deserving of the pricetag, AND you can say with pride, you did it yourself:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :what: . Don't forget to call Les personally and thank him.

[1911Tuner]

Yep...and just think of the pride factor when he tells his
buds that HE straightened it out without Les' help...not
to mention that he won't be sittin on pins and needles
while his pistol is in the hands of the USPS for the round
trip.

Cheers!
Tuner

[Shake]

Shake likes 1911s and all, but if Shake pays THAT much for a gun Shake darn well better get one that works out of the box.

And another thing. . . Shake's not going to spend $20 and half a day racking the slide with some kind of grit soup on the rails just to get the slide to slide. . .

Shake

[1911Tuner]

Awwwww...I understand how ya feel, Shake, but it's a neat
trick that the builders use, and it don't take a half a day...
'Bout 45 minutes, and the gun feels like it's runnin' on buttered
glass. It's also a little reliability trick that gets the gun to
pass the gravity test with flyin' colors. It's a good thing to
do to any pistol, and works like a charm in the lockwork
of a double-action revolver, too. Bolt-action rifle got a
sticky bolt throw? Put the goop to work.

If the pistol ain't too tight to start with...like the Baer...
just skip the lappin' compound and go straight to the
slurry. It'll make that old Colt 1991 or Springer Mil-Spec
sing. I garon-tee.

I just handed ya'll a good thing. Try it. You'll like it!

Cheerio!
Tuner

[Shake]

1911Tuner ,

Hey, I believe every word you said regarding the process and don't doubt that it works wonders. I just feel like some of the $3K I spend on a Baer should cover that 45 minutes of work and the lapping material.

Seems strange to pay that kind of cash and then have to "finish up" the job.

Not that I wouldn't buy a Baer if I had that kind of cash laying around. . .

Shake

[El Tejon]

Tamara, there you go, showing up the boys here yet again.:uhoh:

I own several TRSs. I lube them up and shoot them. Somehow this has always worked.:rolleyes:

Mine work just fine with Metalforms or Les Baers. I now use Les Baer mags only for training (hey, if I carry them, might as well train with them).

[Handy]

If you buy a Rolls Royce, Les Baer or a Rolex, that overpriced mechanical miracle had better work out of the box. Neither home fixing nor shipping is necessary.

If the mags are screwed up, Les should have the new ones in the mail already. If the gun doesn't work, the shop should be handing you the cash back. This isn't true for every consumer product, just the ones that cost 6 times more than anything normal.

[1911Tuner]

Man! You can take a course and build a better pistol for
less than that! Fact is, unless ya gotta have the fancy
checkering, the dee-luxe finish, and the signature, you
can build one for less than 700 bucks, and it'll work.

I just got through with a pair of twin Commander clones
that turned out great. I built one while my ex-step son
watched, and then he build one while i watched and guided.

The first one is nicely fitted, has all the good internals, and
shoots better than I can prove without a sandbag rest.
After initial tuning and working things out, it went 2500
rounds without a burp...without cleaning. You can upgrade to
a Caspian frame and slide for another 250 dollars, and have
a super pistol. (I used Essex for the slide and frame) The
second one hasn't been tested yet, but I don't have a doubt that
it'll go the distance too. Total time invested was 15 hours per
gun, and just under 600 bucks each, due to my discount at Brownell's.

A week-long course at Cylinder and Slide is very reasonable,
and well worth it, so I hear. Dave Sample has an online course that will net you some good skills, you'll have a great pistol
when you get through, plus the tools to work with for the next
project.

Give it a whirl. You might be surprised.

Cheers!
Tuner

[uglymofo]

Not that I wouldn't buy a Baer if I had that kind of cash laying around. . .

Shake,

Ya either got more money than brains, or more nerve than me. Since y'ain't "put your money where your mouth is", I'd favor the second.

If I was to hold $3000 and be lookin' for a pistol, I'd look at Brown, Wilson, Valtro, and maybe even Rock River before I'd give Les Baer Inc. another chance (yeah, I had more money than brains a while ago; but that gun's gone now). Les'll never get another chance from me. Glock first, and you don't know how it pains me to say that.

[El Tejon]

1911Tuner, gave it a whirl, it did not work. I've had pistols built for me from coast to coast--nothing but headaches, even from the ones that the gun hacks in the gun rags waste trees on. I'd rather spend the money up front and get a pistol that works and buys others just like it.

I have enough frustration in my life for 6 men. I do not need to add to it with "custom guns.":)

[Shake]

uglymofo ,

What happened?

$3K is an exaggeration for most of the Baers, but it wouldn't take much to get one to $3K.

If I were so inclined to buy a custom 1911 (I'll be more inclined after I'm done spending money on a new house) I'd not spend anywhere near $3K and I'd likely go the Wilson or Rock River route.

Is there something I've missed with the Baer's (other than the very tight slide issue mentioned in this thread)?

Shake

[Sven]

http://www.imageseek.com/valtro/sven/1998A1_s.jpg

Mmmmm.... Valtro.

[uglymofo]

Shake,

Check your PM please.

mofo

[1911Tuner]

El Tejon,

If it didn't work, it's likely something else is wrong. Maybe
a mechanical timing problem, or the bushing wasn't relieved
enough to allow barrel linkdown. You can check this if you have
another bushing that is a loose fit. If the function improves,
the bushing is your bug. Seen this one after accuracy tweaks,
more than a few times. If a loose bushing diesn't help, it's
time for a trip back to Les...

Good luck,
Tuner

[El Tejon]

1911Tuner, you misunderstand me completely. I have purchased custom guns from most the big name and small name gunsmiths across the nation, they did not run. I sent them back, they came back, and they did not run. I cannot tolerate this frustration.

This is why I buy Les Baers. They work without adding to my frustration. Les Baers run. One less thing to worry about.:)

[1911Tuner]

Ahhhhh...Okay El T...I hear of baers coming in too tight
sometimes, and thought you were talkin' about the Baer.

The problem with guns that are too tight, especially in the
upper lug fit, is that the cause short-cycling, and the problems
can vary from ejection to feeding, or both.

Most of the time, a little smoothing in the tight areas will
set things straight. If it doesn't, there's something else
at work.

Sorry for the brainfart...Ain't gettin old a pisser though?:rolleyes:
T

[El Tejon]

Too tight? Nah, guys just need to cowboy up and work on their hand strength.:D

[makdaddy03]

I say again. "You did What!!!!!":eek:

[Sean Smith]

This is why I buy Les Baers. They work without adding to my frustration. Les Baers run. One less thing to worry about.

Dude, it's nice to hear that your Baer works and all. But alot of people have gotten Baers that aren't reliable out of the box. And frankly, the Baers I've seen just aren't comparable to a good pistolsmith's work.

Baer has their fair share of problems, and to pretend otherwise is just counter-factual. Just a cursory search of the Baer section in 1911forum.com will turn up several...

http://www.1911forum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=50923&highlight=problem

http://www.1911forum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=50289&highlight=problem

http://www.1911forum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=45401&highlight=problem

http://www.1911forum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=46759&highlight=problem

http://www.1911forum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=46633&highlight=problem

http://www.1911forum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=46601&highlight=problem

http://www.1911forum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=42727&highlight=problem

Turns out the frustration you had with gunsmiths is similar to the frustration some Baer customers are having... go figure.

[gpo1956]

I must be the luckiest guy in the world! I have owned 3 Baers and all three have been flawless. Tight (some more than the others) yes, but flawless none the less.

If I had $3000 to spend right now I guarantee you I would buy 2 more Baers or an Ed Brown Classic. I would bet that same $3000 that any custom maker could not build a more accurate or reliable gun than my current Premier II for anywhere close to the $1500 I paid for it.

I don't understand this! Everybody in the world knows Baers are tighter than others. If that scares or concerns you, DON'T BUY ONE!!! But don't sit on these forums and take potshots at a maker that does things differently than your "True Custom Idols", especially when you have never owned or even shot one! You can find all kinds of threads bashing any maker under the sun, but you really have no way of knowing how legitimate the complaints are.

[Tamara]

You need to pick better links.

Four of your seven links are one guy ("vic bastige") griping about his gun. One is some cat whose Trijicon front sight busted off (maybe Les Baer, Inc. should take over QC at the Trijicon plant?), and two are dudes who had FTF probs with their guns that were apparently solved.

Maybe you should do a fresh search? I'm sure there are more unhappy Baer customers buried in the archives over there... ;)

Handy,

If you buy a Rolls Royce, Les Baer or a Rolex, that overpriced mechanical miracle had better work out of the box. Neither home fixing nor shipping is necessary.

If this was coming from a Hi-Point shooter, it'd be a whole lot easier to take seriously. The next time my P7 spits its white dots out of its rear sight, I'll be sure to scribble an anti-HK diatribe. ;)

(PS: What adhesive do you recommend to keep those troublesome white plastic rods in their holes? :confused: )

[Handy]

I was referring to the custom guns costing in the $3000 neighborhood, as previous posts had led me to believe the Baers do. Since $3000 is more than twice the expense of most every possible "factory" or "factory custom" combat gun, I felt the extra $1500 to $2000 should be justifiable in regards to initial quality.

As it turns out, and as I posted in a different current thread, many Baers are priced in the "factory custom" category, like P7s, Performance Center S&Ws or older Walthers.

My mistake.


But I'll stick to my point when pistols get into the several thousand dollar range. All that extra coin better have gone toward QC and pre-ship evaluation.

[Tamara]

But I'll stick to my point when pistols get into the several thousand dollar range. All that extra coin better have gone toward QC and pre-ship evaluation.

That I'll agree with wholeheartedly.

For ~$1,000, I expect a superlative gun.

For ~$2,500, I expect a damned perfect gun. :scrutiny:


(PS: Actually, I wasn't being sardonic about the P7 sights. I know that the non-night-sighted ones spit the sight inserts out eventually like my last one did, and sure enough, the right rear dot on my latest one was hanging out an eight of an inch after my last shooting session. Have you known anyone to have luck with replacing these with white epoxy? Eventually I'll have tritium vials stuffed in the holes, but I'm looking for a make-do until then and I don't want to look like a doofus in front of my 'smith if I can help it. :o )

[sm]

adhesive:
24 hr epoxy by Devcon, Leech, Duro. These work better than other brands IME.

2nd choice: 5 min Epoxy from same mfg's.

Dries clear, will not come out. One will have to drill to replace sights. AEB by having to drill when some have converted to another type sight or tritium too weak.

TIP: Do NOT use epoxy that comes in syringe, or dual configuration.. IME the product that comes in separate "tin" tubes works better. Using clean pc of paper mix equal amt and mix with a toothpick. Throw toothpick away. Using a clean toothpick apply thin amt to clean and degreased area. PUT this toothpick into epoxy mixed on paper. When the toothpick dries, one knows the area epoxied is ready for use. If it is not,one has goofed up. I cured the same sight problem for someone whom has been in Desert Storm, extreme wet, heat, cold, and exposure. Resists oil, solvents , blood,death of enemy due to head bashing.(his/their description)

[Shake]

re1973,

If it resists "blood,death of enemy due to head bashing" it's good enough for me.

:what:

Shake

[Handy]

Mine haven't moved in awhile. I suppose one could also "fix" them in place by heating the front end of the sight with a soldering iron - melting the inside end into the hole.

Don't know why superglue wouldn't work.

[Sean Smith]

Four of your seven links are one guy ("vic bastige") griping about his gun. One is some cat whose Trijicon front sight busted off (maybe Les Baer, Inc. should take over QC at the Trijicon plant?), and two are dudes who had FTF probs with their guns that were apparently solved.

You must be following different links than I posted, because I count 6 different people with Baer problems as the topic starters I linked to (Vic Bastidge, Doug in Alaska, TedG954, dd_king, Lead Poison and Fred Darling). Reading is fundamental? Or maybe 1911 forum is acting up? :scrutiny:

Trijicon didn't make the front sight, just the insert. Just like when you buy Novak or Heinie night sights, they have the little "Trijicon" logo on 'em.

But my goal isn't to prove that Baers suck (because they don't). My goal is to show that they aren't all perfectly trouble free implements like some people seem to think. That's all.