[mugsie]

I'm loading .223 on a Dilllon 550B for the first time. Prior to this I've loaded only handgun. I noticed that when metering the powder into the cartridge, the Dillon powder die / funnel does not flare the mouth of the cartridge as it does with pistol cartridges. This makes it very difficult to get the bullet to seat, it keeps falling off prior to me getting it into the seating die. Am I doing something wrong? Should the powder funnel flare the mouth somewhat to allow the bullet to seat or is this just another technique I've got to master?
Thanks guys....

[snuffy]

Bottle necked rifle cartridges are not flared, unless you are loading lead bullets. Then a Lyman "M" die is the best bet for that operation.

For your dillon 550, you have to follow the shell/bullet up to the bottom of the seating die, while holding the bullet on top of the case. At least that's how I do it on my XL-650. Just be carefull not to get your fingers between the end of the case and seater die, the case will take a chunk out of it!:what: :( :eek:

[P0832177]

Perhaps a review of reloading bottle neck cartridges is on your horizon.

It is hard to reload in a true progressive fashion, rifle cartridges need much more case prep then say loading straight walled handgun cartridges. Not that some do not do it, but I do not advocate such practices.

Most rifle cartridges need to be FL sized or neck sized depending on application. Trimming the case is usually necessary, and thus you would have to removed the case from the press, and then chamferred and deburred. Attention to the primer pocket especailly if you have once fired military brass with the crimp still intact. Then there are some that will deburr the flash hole, too. Then of course dealing with the case lube.

Some powders are not friendly when used with the max charge and may require a drop tube, ie Varget.

For the sake of expediency processing your brass before loading them on the Dillon is good idea. Reconsidering powder choices.

Working up loads on a Dillon is bit of challenge, but not a big deal. It just means charging with powder by hand, and then using the Dillon to seat the bullets.

[distra]

I've just started loading 7.62x39 and will load .223 when I build up my AR15 :D on my 550B. With the 7.62, I have to follow the bullet like snuffy said. It really is not bad once you get into a rhythm. As for using a progressive for rifle, prep the cases first ie trim, deburr, and lube then load away. I've been able to take my time and easily load 200rds of my standard 7.62x39 load in 45min. I have not had any trouble measuring A1680 or H335, but have no experience with Varget. Working up a load on the 550B does not seem too bad to me. I generally dial in the powder (I installed a micrometer dial from UniqueTek) check the weight on the scale, adjust if needed, then cycle the machine a few times checking for charge consistancy. Once I'm satisfied with charge and bullet seating depth, I run off 10-20rds. Change charge weight and repeat.

[mugsie]

I guess I'm doing it right then.

What I did was purchase two tool heads. In the first head goes the FL resizing die. I lube the cases an Alcohol and Lanolin mixture (works great, here's the link - http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm ) then I resize and deprime. Clean off the lube, trim the case for length using a Lee trimmer in my drill. Next I deburr inside and outside, and clean the flash hole. Now they're ready to load.

I swap tool heads, removing the one with the FL resizing die, and put in the one with the powder die, seating die and taper crimp die. Now I use everything as a progressivs. The first station has no die in it so I only prime there, then I drop BL-C(2) which is a psherical powder and it meters well in the Dillon powder measure in station 2. Seat the bullet and apply a very slight taper crimp (.001 - .002).

My only problem was I had to hold the bullet on top of the case and I was wondering if there was an easier way - guess not.

Thanks for the replies people. Stay well and good luck in all you do....

[SlamFire1]

Mugsie: For safety sake, trim your cases. Rifle brass grows when sizing. I found this out over twenty years ago when my 30-06 cases started blowing primers. It was once fired Federal ammunition. The case neck had lengthened enough to pinch the bullet. Brass grows the most the first time it is sized.

As distra wrote, trim, de burr, and bevel your cases. You will still find even with a bevel you will have to hold the bullet in the neck until it enters the seating die.

Also, the .223 powder horn is prone to powder bridging. I recommend doing a search and find out what people have done to reduce this. I polished the interior of my powder horn, others have done more.

[snuffy]

Most rifle cartridges need to be FL sized or neck sized depending on application. Trimming the case is usually necessary, and thus you would have to remove the case from the press, and then chamferred and deburred. Attention to the primer pocket especailly if you have once fired military brass with the crimp still intact. Then there are some that will deburr the flash hole, too. Then of course dealing with the case lube.

Good points, but if you don't have to trim, the shells can be run through the entire process without removing them from the press. Here's my set-up;

http://photos.imageevent.com/jptowns/terrysoops/websize/dillon%20.223.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/jptowns/terrysoops/websize/image9.jpg

For blasting ammo in .223, I spot check to assure there's no over long brass in a batch. Then they are spray lubed with RCBS case slick, then run through the entire process on the XL-650. That's a Hornady measure with their case activated linkage. I use surplus WC-844 powder most of the time, but varget runs through it very well.

For match ammo, I pre-process using a lee collet sizer to semi-size, just to get the mouth round, then trim, deburr and chamfer. I just bought a RCBS case prep center, so it gets used to clean primer pockets.

As for the lube, I run the finished ammo in bare corn cob in my midway tumbler for 15-20 minutes to remove the lube. All brass is tumbled clean and shined up with corn cob and midway case polish prior to loading.

[dmftoy1]

I found the Hornady Seating dies helped me out alot with this on my 550b. It has that sliding sleeve that extends below the die and you let your fingers ride the case up until that sleeve starts to compress back into the die and then pull them out. (at least that's the best I can describe it. :) )

Have a good one,
Dave

[jkr266]

If you need to Fl resize your brass, the RCBS x-sizer die is the best invention of the decade. Trim .020 below max case length and reload, you'll wear the case out before you ever need to trim the cases again.