Redhawk SA pull


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Pappy John
June 12, 2003, 12:53 PM
I've got this Redhawk that, after a trip to Ruger service, has a great double action pull.....smooth, easy, and always goes off. The single action pull though is gritty and inconsistent and I want it better, so I got out the rubbing compound and some Q-tips to smooth the sear engagement sufaces. Okay, I figured out where to work on the hammer, but I'm not sure where that surface engages the trigger sear. Could someone enlighten me with which edge I should polish. They both look rough to me under a magnifier and I can't tell where the hammer has been resting at full cock. I'm not sure if its A or B.



http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid65/p703a27537741d56e7ce83a71ce33b2a1/fbf14cab.jpg





http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid65/p9df872910f8971c0a6ea9bbe96d98c68/fbf127e2.jpg

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bountyhunter
June 12, 2003, 01:41 PM
Hmmmm. If it was a SW I could tell you, I don't work on Rugers. Can't you set the trigger and hammer in the frame (without springs) and see what hooks up to what as you cock it?

If I was to guess I'd say "A", because the SA cock position has the hammer farther back than it goes in DA travel.

BTW: not to discourage you, but all the manuals I have on SW say the #1 way to ruin a gun is to stone the sear surfaces. On a SW, you only have about .030" or so of SA sear surface to start with, hence the reason the trigger only moves less than 1/10" when you pull it SA. Also, the hammers and triggers on SW guns are surface hardened after fitting and it only goes about .006" deep so it's pretty easy to cut through with a stone. Then, the parts wear away really fast.

Be careful using any abrasive on a sear surface. You might try the old gunsmith trick of "forcing" before going after the sear with a stone. That's where you cock the hammer and apply a slight pressure to the back as you pull the trigger. That generally will work off any burrs or rough spots in quick time. It's also the mandatory safety test for a revolver: you should be able to apply a fair amount of pressure to the back of a cocked hammer without it slipping off and falling./ If it falls, it usually means somebody stoned the sear.

Regards.

I'll dig out my Kuhnhausen book and see if I can pin down the SA sear face on yours from the pictures.

Pappy John
June 12, 2003, 02:40 PM
Hi, Bountyhunter.
Can't you set the trigger and hammer in the frame (without springs) and see what hooks up to what as you cock it?

Nope...unlike S&W, there's no sideplate to remove. The only crack you have at seeing what is going on is by looking past the hammer face when it is cocked and working the trigger as you hold the hammer back. From this angle it looks as if the hammer is resting on "A", but its a poor view, so I'm not 100% sure.



all the manuals I have on SW say the #1 way to ruin a gun is to stone the sear surfaces

Don't have stones. Leaving Dremel on the shelf. :p Do you think I can remove enough material with auto rubbing compound on a Q-tip to do harm? If so I guess I'll just live with it, but it seems like a good SA pull should be easy to accomplish compared to smoothing the DA .

bountyhunter
June 12, 2003, 04:33 PM
"Do you think I can remove enough material with auto rubbing compound on a Q-tip to do harm? "

Doesn't seem likely. I was going to suggest my old favorite: I take a popsicle stick and cut small strips of sandpaper (600# or 800#) that are the width of the stick and about 1 1/2" long. Then I tape them tight to the stick at each end with masking tape. You can do some flat polishing with oil. As long as you just do a light polish on the flat surfaces (and don't lean on any sharp edges) you should have no problem.

Pappy John
June 12, 2003, 09:05 PM
Thanks, bountyhunter. I might try the popsicle stick trick if the compound can't smooth it enough.

bountyhunter
June 13, 2003, 05:29 PM
I checked Kuhnhausen book for SW last night. I am pretty sure the SA faces are the ones:

1) The lower left edge of the hammer as shown in your photo, that "two-step" machined face is the SA cocking point.

2) The trigger face you have just to the left of it in the picture (surface A).

Inspect the faces on the hammer carefully for burrs or uneven cut marks. Anything that doesn't look right. "gritty and inconsistent" SA pull sounds like maybe they stoned the face there and left it rough. You should be able to see it.

Surface A should have a flat face on the end and rounded over above it.

As to how much you can polish to take out rough spots? I'm not sure if Ruger uses surface (case) hardening like SW or how deep it goes in. On mine, I will give them a few gentle strokes of a flat side with 600# paper and oil and that's about it.

Good luck.

Bren
June 15, 2003, 06:46 PM
For one you need a nice ceramic stone and you need to jig it up square so the cut is even.

This is your SA hook on the hammer (top notch) , if it's heavy, take a feeler gage like this and bring the hammer hook down to about .013-.014

I would start at .014 since the hammer comes out easy for checking the pull. .012 would be the max but don't go there.

I'll bet your creap problem is on the sear and I'll post the pic on the nect thread.

Bren
June 15, 2003, 07:00 PM
Well, I didn't keep a picture but see were you have "A" which looks like this " \"

the bottom edge is sharp \ ,, << That is your sear, Just break that edge a hair (.005 wide max!) do it nice and even and this should take care of the creep. (to much and you will be buying a trigger! Just a small break)

Other parts on the trigger are very sensitive to the timming of the gun so do that and get out unless you know more. :uhoh: The spring kits do the most otherwise.

I had a little creep in my SA and solved the problem doing the above and left my SA at .014 (it was .015 1/2) Hope this helps Bren

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