First Handgun - What to get?

[Blain]

Ok, I finally recieved my class A license from my towns police chief, though the nazis still won't let me carry. :fire:

Now I can buy handguns. This brings me to an interesting development as I have neer bought a handgn before. I am not really all that into handguns and am more a fan of long guns. I am not too familiar with hanguns. However, I know I want one and need one. I will most likely get more than one, but what should I look for in my very first handgun? I need to know the following criteria.

1. What calibers should I get?
2. Revolver or semi?
3. What brands to buy/avoid?
4. What prices the recommended guns/brands go for (new and used) so I don't get ripped off. Dealers around here will take you for all you're worth if they think they can.
5. What barrel length?
6. What accessories do I need, cleaning and otherwise?
7. Anything else you think I should know?


This being my first handgun I REALLY want to make sure that I do it right the first time. I also need to know the market value for certain guns so I don't end up paying $550 for a .45 Ruger! I might be tempted to buy one as soon as tomorrow so any help would be much appreciated!

[Jason Demond]

A revolver is always a good first gun. I would go for a S&W Kframe in .38 Special.

[denfoote]

Hi Blain,
Funny you should mention Ruger!! They make a good first handgun. If the P97, .45ACP, is on the MA (I assume that is where you are) approved list, then I would pick one of those up!! A good starter 9mm would be the P95!! Both should be well under $500!! I spent $350 for the P95 in '97 and just recently spent $408 for the P97.

Did you ever get your shotgun barrel chromed???

[Blain]

S&W Kframe in .38 Special.

These run around how much$????????

[caz223]

I'd say get a wheelgun first.
A nice ruger GP100 or smith 686 .357 magnum.
4" barrel lengths seem to be a good all-purpose compromise.
A very good alternate would be a smith 610 with a 4" barrel.
10mm power, can also shoot .40 s&w for practice.
Very accurate.
Moon clips for quick loading.
Fun at the range, very good for home defense.
Ammo can be had locally, and for not a lot of money.


***EDIT***
Ruger GP100 series run around $425 locally here.
S&W wheels run between $550-$600
Used, in good shape, a little less than a new ruger.
Both can be had for less money if you have a little patience, and carry cash.

[Blain]

So how much do such guns cost, as I want to make sure I do not get ripped off. Did you say that 10mm guns can shoot both 10mm and 40 cal?!?!?! If so that seems like a nice option to have! Kind of like how .357 can also fire .38 specials!

[caz223]

The smith 610 can shoot both 10mm and .40 s&w.
The 10mm autos cannot.
It's a function of headspacing on the moonclip that makes it possible in a wheelgun.

[XavierBreath]

Go to a rental range if possible, and shoot each one there. Read a bit. Research a bit. Everyone has their favorite, but that pistol might not be right for YOU. In the end, it's the shooting that counts, not the pistol. A pistol is only a bullet delivery system.

For a first pistol, I recommend a .22 such as a Ruger or Buckmark to learn the shooting basics with. That may be the best $250 you will ever spend on a gun (around $150 if you buy used). Once you can hit consistently, move up. If you do not learn to shoot, no pistol can make you into a better shooter. Use Auction Arms or Gun Broker to check prices. Take a NRA course on handgun safety. The instructors will help you with your shooting skills as well.

Put $500 away to invest in a quality pistol. You will not be disappointed. Expect to pay between $400 to $700. There is nothing worse than having to fight a pistol while learning to shoot.

Have Fun.

[oscar]

A good 22 revolver. After you learn that, a 38 of the same type.

[TheMariner]

If you plan on using autoloaders for SD and what not... Might as well buy an autoloader and forego revolvers... I didn't shoot a revolver until 13, but had already spent 5 years with autoloaders.

Trust me, you won't miss them and I found that going from autoloader to revolver is easier than the reverse... going from complex to simple always is...

Autoloaders have a steep learning curve.... you must practice and understand it. I'm not going to go into all that "picturing and training with the weapon as an extension of your body" bull crap... Authors write that poppycock to make their characters seem cool... Just know the wep down pat and let your subconscious take care of the rest...

[WingZero]

I would go with a semi-auto in either 9mm, or 45acp.
I would look into Glock, Kimber, or Sig.
Thats my opinion.
Hope it helps.:D

[Jeff]

I think a revolver is good first choice, especially if you are not really a "handgun" kind of person. I know a few people-- hunters and such-- who are not really into handguns, but if they do own one, it is almost always a wheelgun.

The Ruger GP100 is a very nice first revolver. 4" barrel, as suggested by someone else, is an all purpose length.

Caliber should be .357. It is as versatile a handgun round as you can get. Powerful, relatively flat shooting, economical. Not too much recoil. And, of course, with a .357 magnum handgun, you can fire .38 special ammo in it, without any modification.

Choice: Ruger GP100 stainless steel 4" barrel in .357 magnum.

[sig970]

I too would pick up a revolver as a first handgun. Very straight forward. Easy, accurate, fun.

Glock Sig Kimber???? Al good but.....

DAO
DA/SA
SA

Three completely different trigger systems to learn????

TRY before you buy if you can is my opinion.

[Waitone]

Figure out how you want to use it. That'll point you in any of several directions.

When you get to the point of drooling on the display case, tear yourself away and spend time over at the ammo rack.

There is the cost of a purchase, then there is the cost of ownership. Ammo prices vary greatly.

.22LR at Huge-Mart goes for $10 / 550 rounds.

.38 spl can go for $10 / 50 rounds

9 mm on sale can go for $5.50 / 50 rounds.

.357 mag can go for $15 / 50 rounds

.45 ACP steet price is $14 / 50 rounds

So how good you wanna get. I tend to shoot more of the smaller calibers. 100 rounds of .45 acp is a good workout. I found out I couldn't afford to get good with a .45 acp so I started reloading.

[Sir Galahad]

For your first handgun, if it's a revolver you want, then I suggest a Smith & Wesson .500 Magnum or a Magnum Research BFR in .45/70. If it's an auto you want, then I suggest the Desert Eagle in .50AE. Any of these fine firearms would make a perfect first handgun.

[Blain]

Well I just came back from the gunstore. The guy showed me what he recommended for a good carry gun. the pistols he picked out were the following.

1. S&W CS40
.40 Caliber with a 3 1/4" barrel stainless
Comes with two seven round mags for $450

He also had the same gun in .45 for $500. They were both very small, light, and compact. I like both .40 and .45 calibers, so I am having a hard time deciding which I would like better. Before I bought one I had to narrow down which caliber was best, and if that price is good for that gun, and if that gun is good!

.40 vs. .45...... tough decision. They both use 7 round mags, right?


Another gun he showed me that I liked a bit was,

2. Walter P99
.40 SW with a 4" barrel. It can hold 10 rounds.

The stainless/black one was $500, and the all black one was only $400! This was also a very nice gun, and even cheaper than the smaller one! (It also held more rounds) Is this a good pistol and a good price? Which out of those pistols I listed would you prefere and in what order? The small one is really small and easy to conceal, the larger one is a bit harder, but has a larger capacity. What do you guys, who know these guns a lot better than I do, think?

[.45FMJoe]

HAHAHA at the DE and S&W .500 :) Good stuff. A revolver would be a good choice, I lean towards anything that says Colt on it myself. If not a revolver than a good 1911 or how about a Glock?

My first handgun was a .45. Expensive as hell to shoot compared to my 9mm Glock. Wal-Mart 100 round value pack of winchester white box (9mm) is $10 compared to $13 for a box of 50 .45acp.

[Sean Smith]

(small, light & compact) + (.40 or .45 caliber) = nasty recoil.

Since you can't carry it anyway, you have ZERO reason to get a small, light gun that will kick harder and, probably, be less accurate. Even less than zero since you are a handgun newbie... rifle experience won't do squat for you as far as shooting handguns goes. The guy's suggestions for you were dopey, though the guns aren't bad per se.

My suggestion: get a full-sized gun in 9x19mm. Pick from any of the following for maximum enjoyment:

Beretta 92FS/G/D/Vertec/Elite/Elite II
SigSauer P226
Glock 17 or 34
CZ-75B/BD

If you think 9mm makes you a sissy, remember that SEALS and SAS shoot alot of 9mm from their P226's. 9mm +P has the same muzzle energy as most .45 ammo. And if you can find it, Winchester 127gr +P+ is seriously hot stuff. :evil:

9mm ammo is also way cheap, so you can do more shooting for the dollar and build your skills faster. From there, move up to bigger boomers if you want, or just save all your money for a P7 or SIG P210. :D

The other good choice is a .357 Magnum revolver, since you can get tons of .38 Special ammo for way cheap, and use the .357 stuff for more serious work. No reason to go light-n-tiny either. Get either a Smith & Wesson 686, or a Ruger GP 100, 4"+ barrels. Used S&W 19 and 66 models are nice if you can find a good deal on a used one.

[Blain]

Just because the nazis/Reds don't want me to defend myself doesn't mean I will put my life in jeapordy.

Anyway, what do you think of the Walther P99? It is larger than the CS', has a 4" barrel and a 10 round mag. IT is $500 for the stainless steel version and $400 for the black one. Is the SS version worth $100 more? Just what warrents such a price increase? Pretty looks? $400 seems like a great deal for such a pistol as it is even cheaper than the police specials.....

Think if I offer cash on the table he will knock off $50 from the price?

[XavierBreath]

Your first post led me to believe you would not carry, but your next implies you plan to carry. Your number of posts leads me to believe you have a bit of experience with firearms. Do not carry illegally. If you live in a shall issue state and have a clean record, you cannot be refused. Go here to learn more. http://www.packing.org/

If you plan to carry the weapon, caliber is important. .40S&W or .45ACP are what I consider minimum to stop a threat under stress. Some say 9mm, some say .380. I call that a compromise. The average number of shots fired in self defense is three. At 7 rounds plus one in the chamber, a .45 is adequate in most situations, especially if you have a spare mag on your belt.

As with any firearm, it's purpose determines your choice. For a carry weapon, I require minmum .40S&W, absolute reliability with JHP, quick sights, adequate accuracy, and ease of concealment. The only time I compromise any of these is if my mode of dress does not allow concealment. In scrubs or scivies, I carry a P32. I drop the caliber to get concealment. Any other time my carry weapon is a HK USPc in .40S&W. It holds 10 rounds. I have also carried a Beretta Mini-Cougar in .40S&W (10 or 6 rounds, depending on magazine), and Commander sized .45's (7 rds).

Remember that no pistol is inherently "better" than another if they both can do what you need them to do. The real determining factor is what you will use the gun for. Everyone has a favorite, and will say this one is great, that one is superior. If you feel the need to learn handgun basics, get a .22 to learn with. Trade it in later, or use it to teach others with later. If you feel you can skip the learning phase, and want a carry weapon, look towards the .40s and .45s. From your selections it appears you are still deciding what you will use the gun for, and still need to shoot a few loaners and rentals to determine which type of action you prefer. Once you determine use and prefered action, your selection will be narrowed down considerably. Then you can start looking at price, reliability, accuracy, whatever. Right now, there are simply to many choices and variables.

Keep in mind that 99.9% of gun shop owners will try to sell you what they have in stock. Do your research (hands on and written) and ask him to order what you want. If he refuses, go elsewhere.

[Blain]

Just curious, Xavier, how does the .40s muzzle energy compare to te .45s? I have heard that the .40 is very close to that of the 45's, but out of a short barrel the .40 is better because the heavier bullet of the .45 can't get enough velocity to be effective.

[XavierBreath]

I'm not sure Blain, I'm no ballistics man. I do see a lot of gunshot wounds working in the ER over the years though, and base my choices on that. I also tend to carry the same type of ammo as the local police as well, to prevent an attorney from claiming I had special "killer" bullets. I have heard some ballistics guys say the ballistics are similar, others say better, still others call the .40S&W short and weak. I see it as a decent compromise to get magazine capacity along with an effective round. Both damage a lot of tissue.

What I have seen in the ER leads me to believe that the terminal ballistics of the .40S&W and .45ACP are similar, and the damage done has more to do with mass and expandability of the bullet than muzzle velocity. Many more people shot with a .40 or .45 are DOA, the numbers drop as bullet mass drops. Of course the number of bullet wounds has a big impact, but that can trip you up in court later. It's easier for a jury to aquit with two .45 shots than four 9mm. As the number of shots goes up, the defensibility of the shooting goes down.

FWIW, stainless is worthwhile if you want to checker the frame, or melt the edges, as you do not have to refinish. It does not wear away like bluing, and carry weapons get a lot of holster wear. It also is less susceptible to rust from your sweat. Other than that, it's what you like to look at. A stainless slide on a polymer frame would wear better if you sweat a lot, and if the weapon may get wet from the rain, or whatever.

[AirPower]

For first time, get a .22LR so you don't have to worry about recoil, it'll be a good 1st choice. I'd suggest the Walther P22, and then later you can upgrade to the P99 9mm, the handling are similar.

[Akurat]

9mm. Cheap ammo, hi-cap, great stopping power, low recoil.

You can't go wrong with the flagships from these manufacturers, some will fit your hand better than others...but all will fire reliably and accurately, for years to come, without waiver:

Beretta, Ruger, Glock, SIG, CZ, HK, Springfield XD.

[David4516]

I would buy two cheaper handguns if I were you. I'd get a Ruger .22

http://www.ruger-firearms.com/Firearms/FAProdView?model=173&return=Y

And a Makarov.

http://www.makarov.com

Both cost around $150 to $200, and are very well made.

My Makarov is my carry gun. I like it because it is cheap to shoot, 100% dependable, and small enough for carry. They are avablible in 2 calibers, .380 and 9mm Makarov (aka 9X18 ). These are not 'powerful' rounds but they will get the job done. 9mm Makarov is between .380 and 9mm Luger on the power scale.

The .22 will be good for plinking.

Remember, just because Gun X costs more than Gun Y doesn't make it a better gun. You should think very carefully about Exactly what you want your handgun to be able to do. Then go and buy one. It's not a good idea to just say "I feel like getting a handgun" and buy one because it looks cool or somthing. Your life might depend on it someday, so be sure to get one thats right for you...

[only1asterisk]

Do yourself a favor and buy a fullsize gun first. The advice to get a revolver is solid. A 22 is the pefect beginners gun, but you may be better served with something more useful. There is no better teacher than a S&W 686 or Ruger GP100. Cheap to shoot, powerfull with as much or as little recoil as you want. Get a 3" or 4". Start with 38's and shoot a lot. When you think you are ready to move on shoot more, then shoot some +P's. When you get to the point where you can shoot them as well as the lesser 38's you will be ready to move on to 110 grain 357's or medium velocity 125's. When you get good with these, you should be ready to shoot any handgun within reason. You will have leared a great deal about handguns from being at the range and watching others. Hopefully you will be a decent shot. Most of all you will have a gauge to measure other handguns buy. This is important. You can even carry it, although it will be more difficult than some other guns, it is not impossible.


If you must have a auto, you may want to get a full size all steel 9mm. Easier to conceal than an revolver, it will however take more time to become proficient. Ammo is still cheap, which is good because you will shoot it twice as fast.

Another good way to go with an auto is a smaller cartridge in a medium size gun. The one that comes to mind is the CZ 83 a double action high capacity 380. Bigger than a pocket pistol, but smaller than a full size gun, it may be the way to go if you really want to carry in a hurry.

You should probably avoid any compact 40's or 45's until you master a fullsize gun. Whatever you choose, let us know. I for one am very interested.

Dave

[Tommy Gunn]

Check the used gun market for a used .38 caliber S&W M10 revolver. There are alot of police trade-ins for just under $200 retail.

These are quality guns. The .38 Special chambering is very accurrate and will do everything you need a handgun for.

[Ala Dan]

Greeting's From The Deep South-

For a first gun, I would recommend a revolver also.
They are a bit easier to become proficent with; but still it
takes practice, practice, practice! For a type selection,
I would have to say a (good used, but NOT abused) S&W
model 19, with a 4" barrel. This will allow you to shoot the
low cost, low recoil .38 specials for plinking/target shooting
and the potent .357 magnum's for defensive purposes.
One can usually we found in LNIB for between $250-300.
I would stay away from the Taurus and Rossi .357's. Buy
only quality firearms; is a good rule of thumb to follow!

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member

[Rich357]

Hi Blain,

Think safety now and every time you pick up a handgun. Don't ever assume it is not loaded. Watch that muzzle. Think, think, think.

What do you want to do with this handgun?

Are you looking for a carry piece? Or, will it mostly be for use at a range and / or home defense?

Do you have rental ranges in your area? You should try before you buy.

It is hard to find one perfect gun the first time. Your needs and interests will likely change over time. A handgun that is reliable, accurate and shoots modestly priced ammo is one that you will likely enjoy and want to take out to the range an use.

A .22lr revolver or semi-auto can give you years of shooting enjoyment and not cost you an arm and a leg.

If you want a more power full hangun, 9mm and .38 Special ammo is relatively inexpensive and easy to find. Bullet placement is more important than a little more power. Check the stats on the Ammo Lab site. There is not a huge difference between 9mm, .357SIG, .40S&W, .45auto.

Handguns in 9mm, I recommend:
Walher P99
Glock 17, 26 and 34 (I find them easier to shoot well than the G19)
SiG P239, P229 or P226... all are excellent. The P239 is the least expensive.
HK USP Compact

Handguns (revolvers) in .38/.357Mag, I recommend:
S&W 686 4"
S&W 66 4"
Ruger I'm sure is fine but I don't first hand expereince.

Rimfire handugns:
Ruger MkII semi auto
Browning Buckmark
S&W 617

Good luck,
Rich

[YodaVader]

I agree with the revolver choice - that is , if you really want to become a proficient handgunner. Trying to learn with low profile non adjustable sights like those found on most service autos is not the way to go. Trying to learn with a creepy , gritty , heavy trigger pull is highly detrimental to good shooting. A lot of service autos I have fired fall into that category.

Most of the new shooters , mostly kids , come into the range with their new semi-autos and proceed to spray bullets all over the place , some hitting the target , some the walls well to the side of the target , even seen bullet marks on the ceiling! Some really poor shooting.

Not saying that a revolver will make you instantly a good shooter , but buying one like Ala Dan recommends - a good 19 or 66 - you have good sights which can be adjusted , a handgun capable of shooting very mild ammo to begin with and a an extremely crisp creep free trigger which is a great aid in learning to shoot well. Plus you will have a gun that is usually capable of one inch accuracy with the right loads at 25 yards. Not that you will be able to shoot that well , but having a gun that is capable always helps confidence.

A good 22lr will go a long ways into making one a good handgun shooter. Smith 17 wold be a good choice. Low noise , recoil and cheap ammo all adds up to a handgun that is extremely pleasurable to shoot. Does not have the macho factor of a Glock , Beretta or HK but to me me it is far more impressive to make hits than to spray lead. Hitting the 100 yard silhouette (Ram) is almost routine with a good revolver or 22 target auto.

Not saying that I dislike a autos - fired a Les Baer 45 bullseye gun last year which was amazingly accurate , crisp trigger and a fantastic gun! That is my idea of a desirable semi-auto pistol!

[1goodshot]

Get a 4"-6" 357, either a S&W 686 or Ruger GP100. Everybody needs a good 357. They will both last a lifetime with normal use.

[only1asterisk]

Further infomation:

Dealer Prices
357 Revolver
S&W 686 $425+
S&W 66 $370+
Ruger GP100 $325+

9mm Fullsize
Cz 75 $325-350
S&W 5906 $450+ ($275 police trade in)
Ruger 9mm's $270-340

(S&W prices are all stainless others are blued)

Police trade in revolvers are $150-275, but you need to be able to reject bad ones.

When you pick a specific model, let me know and I will research a price for you.

All above prices are what the dealer pays, and honest dealer will get you any of these guns for $50-70 markup!

Add ons and extras:

Good locking case for transportation and storage

Holster and belt

Cleaning kit

Books with pictures Gunsmithing: Pistols & Revolvers by sweeney. Covers cleaning, used gun buying, lots of good reading.

Training Classes

AMMO!!! and lots of it!

Range membership!

NRA Membership

GOA and SAF donations

Have fun,

Dave

[only1asterisk]

I forgot,

Buying a used 357 K-frame S&W is not a bad idea, but be extra careful. Model 13, 19, 66, 65 Smiths are not as robust as L-frames 581, 586, 681, 686 or Ruger's GP100. Too many full power 357 mags will accelerate wear and tear. On a used gun were you don't know the history, this is a risk. Paying a little more for the stouter gun might be a wise investment.

6" barrel revolvers are great to target shoot with, but are a PITA to carry. If you want, or find a great deal on a 6" don't feel bad about buying it, you can always cut it down, or have a new barrel fitted ($125-175) when you get ready to start carrying.

Good luck,

Dave

[Blain]

Well I did it, I bought a handgun!!!!!


had made up my mind to get a .40 handgun by the time I had gotten in the store. The dealer pulled out and showed me the .40 SWDS. I tried it out for a bit and asked to also see the titanium finished P99 in .40 to compare them with. Both were nice guns, however, the P99 just felt better and seemed lighter, even!

The DS40 came with the case, two mags, and a holster for $450. The P99 came with all of the above (but without the holster) for $500.

IT was a hard decision, and the lower price + the addition of a holster for the DS40 almost made me purchase that gun instead. However, as the guy said, I should buy a gun based on how it fits/feels and not on a holster. I just had to buy the P99, it just felt right to me! Not to mention, I get an inch more of barrel length for added velocity.

The P99 also came with a 3 round higher capacity (10 round mags) with the capability to buy preban 12 and 16 rounders later on if desired.

So the P99 it was!

There was also a black P99 .40 selling for $400. Even though it was an identical model in all black for $100 less, I just had to go with the titanium finish! It just looked so.......money!

BTW, is it me, or is it almost impossible to fit 10 rounds inside the factory mags?

[only1asterisk]

Congradulations!

The p99 is a fine gun, I'm sure you'll be happy with it. Don't let it discourage you. Lots of cop learn to shoot with a 40 (many learn to flinch too). You may want to check out the P22. It looks feels and works like your P99, but it's a 22 LR. It will pay for itself in the price difference of 20 boxes of ammo. Should be able to pick one up for $240 or so. Also will help you to cure flinching, should you start.

Again, congradulations! Welcome to the club.

Dave

[Sir Galahad]

So ya didn't pick the .500 Magnum S&W or Desert Eagle .50AE, ya chicken!:D Just kiddin! Load the mags to 10 and let them sit overnights a week. They'll start getting easier to load.

[Rich357]

Some compact .40s and .45s.

SIG 239 .40 slim, accurate, reliable, comfortable to shoot

Glock 27 .40 small, accurate, reliable, easy to shoot well, 9 round magazine

Glock 23 .40 compact, accurate, reliable, easy to shoot if it fits your hand 10 round mag or more if pre-ban

Wather P99 .40 relatively compact, accurate, reliable, easy to shoot well, DA/SA,

USP Compact .40 accurate, reliable, easy to shoot well.

The Kahr .40s small and apparently reliable. I don't have experience with them, yet.

Glock 30 .45 compact but a little wide, accurate, reliable, surprisingly easy to shoot well. 10 round mag

Glock 36 .45 compact and slim, accurate, reliable, easy to shoot well, a litte more felt recoil than the G30, 6 round mag

There are a number of small 1911 style .45s. I don't have much experience with them, yet.

Rich

[happy old sailor]

blain: get a mag loader. save frustration. save fingers.

surprised your dealer did not mention this.

[litework]

Darn Blain, that's an awesome selection. I'm glad you went with the P99. The .40 is a nice caliber and the P99 is a nice package. Congrats on your purchase.

[Blain]

Thanks for the compliments guys! I shot it today and it shoots like a dream, hardly any recoil, even one handed! I have found some speedloaders for the 9mm P99 but not for the 40....where can I find some?

[goon]

As a sidenote, I would like to tell you of my handgun experiences.
My first handgun was a Ruger Single Six .22. I couldn't hit anything with it. Eventhough I would hold just right and squeeze the trigger just right, I would miss by feet. The chances of my hitting a pop can at even a minimal distance were minute.
My next gun was a Kimber .45. Eventhough my results with the .22 were dismal, I was much better with the .45. I quickly learned to empty a full magazine into the head of a silouhette target at 25 yards with little difficulty. That has characteristically been the story for me. I can shoot automatics pretty well, and I am not too bad with a DA revolver, but the single actions elude me.
The thing is that I would advise you to try a few different handguns before you decide. A .22 revolver may be a good choice for most people to start with, but it wasn't for me. It may or may not be for you.
Hell, you could pick up a 2.5 inch .357 and knock the center out of a target with it right away for all the more any of us know. I say try some out and pick what you want to start with.
The one glaring advantage of a revolver is that they are easily found with adjustable sights, so zeroing is user friendly. Adjusting the sights on some fixed sight autos can be a PITA.

My advice for a new auto says maybe the CZ pistols or a SIG. I have examples of both and they are both top notch. The CZ wins for price. Stay with 9mm to start. Cheap ammo and powerful enough to do what needs done. And low recoil.
For a revolver, I would choose S&W as a first, but I wouldn't turn down a good Ruger or Colt. All four of the Smiths I owned/own were excellent guns. Adjustable sights and .357 would be my preference. I started with 110gr .357mag loads, but you could use 38 Spec. if you felt the need to start there. If you have absolutely no experience with a handgun, .38 may be best to start with anyhow. It is only a very little step up from a .22 when fired in a large frame gun.
Now that I think about it, I should think you will need one of each.
Good luck.:cool:

[arinvolvo]

I say get something in 9mm....It is easy and cheap to shoot, so you will shoot it more, and get more practice.

[Rich357]

Congrats on getting the P99 .40!!

This last weekend I took my P99 9mm out to the range for the first time. No problems. It was a little more snappy than my Glock 9mm. The trigger of the P99 slapped my finger a little. The hole in the rear of the grip was a little scratchy on my hand. It is easy to smooth it's edges. I'm sure the trigger will feel better with more shooting.

Before I bought my P99 I had shot a well broken in P99, so I know the P99 can be very nice after several hundred rounds.

Rich

[denfoote]

Blain,
Excelent choice!! :D
I have had a P99 for several years now and have not had any problems with it!!

[Blain]

Rich, if you don't like the grip try one of the two other ones that come with the pistol!