[floridaboy]

I have knives in lots of different steels, ATS34, D2, HC420, VG10,1095 among others. I can sharpen mosy pretty well. But the ATS34 and D2 give me problems. I have a variety of stones, ceramics, and a diamond hone or 2, but those few are still a problem. Suggestions, please?

[Kingcreek]

Not enough information.
sharpening is pretty much the same. If the technique is right, it works regardless of the type of steel. might take longer for harder steel.
the problem might be different edge geometry? inconsistant technique?

[whited]

What is it they say about D2 ?

It takes a mediocre edge and holds it very well.

:neener:

[Kingcreek]

It takes a mediocre edge and holds it very well.

I never heard that before.
D2 is an excellent steel if the heat treat is right. I've got Bob Doziers and blades treated by Paul Bos and they are all shaving sharp.

[jahwarrior]

IMO, anuthing is better than 420 or 440. come to thnk of it, i',m not fond of AUS either.

[Zeke/PA]

As a retired toolmaker I can say this.
D-2, a WW1 era die steel has saved my butt more times than I can count.
With upwards of 10% Chrominum content the material approaches 400 series stainless in rust resistence and it ranks very high in abrasion resistence.
Paper, because of impurities (glass especially) is a very good test of edge holding ability.
I have built literally tons of steel rule dies and slitter type cutters using, you guessed it, good ole' D-2 as it outperformed other available tool steels.
In my semi-pro knifemaking days I used mostly O-1 and D-2.
D-2 is harder to sharpen but my Spyderco system takes care of that.
In my opinion D-2 is tops.
Zeke

[whited]

I don't seem to have many problems with AUS-8 or 440C blades.

Not very difficult to sharpen, and take very fine edges. Practicality.
Value. I haven't identified any personal need for a "wonder" blade in
high-speed tool steel yet. I wonder how many have bought mega-dollar
D2 blades just because its the latest darling of the manufacturers.

I think there is a sharpening FAQ at the top of the page, if that helps.

[DogBonz]

but the ATS34 blade in my Benchmade CQC7 is awesome. Its 10 years old and still in good shape. I have a fine diamond stone that I use on it every once in a while to put that shaving sharp edge on it, but it holds an edge for a long time.

[LHB1]

ATS34 is my favorite knife steel and all but one of my hunting and pocket knives are made with it. (The lone exception was a mistake on my part.) I use 8" Arkansas novaculite oil stones for sharpening: Soft (medium), Hard (fine), and Black (Extra Fine). Maintaining a consistent edge angle on each sharpening stroke is critical.

Good shooting and be safe.
LB

[DogBonz]

Maintaining a consistent edge angle on each sharpening stroke is critical.

Thats why I love my CQC7. Only one angle! I love those chisel grinds... so easy to sharpen and they stay sharp longer...

[Valkman]

There's enough great makers using D2 that I'd say it's the heat treat and not the steel causing your problem. Same with ATS-34, I can't get it as sharp as tool steel but it gets pretty sharp.

[Zeke/PA]

D-2 as I mentioned is an older (WW1) die steel.
Over the years however quality control and new heat treatment methods have improved the overall steel availability considerably.
Heat treatment alone is a constantly changing science.
Cyrogenics as an example:
As part of the heat treating process, the material is subject to a sub zero quench to better distribute martensites throughout the part.
When this occurs the part may be tempered to a point higher on the Rockwell scale (harder) wtihout sacrificing toughness.
D-2 responds well to this process which of course makes the knife harder to sharpen.
I have for years, used Fine India and Hard Arkansas stones to both sharpen and maintain blades. With some practice, the technique involved CAN be mastered.
However, a few years back, I was introduced to the Spyderco Sharpmaker and now I use no other method.
Zeke

[hso]

Good information Zeke/PA!

Properly heat treated D2 makes marvelous knives with great edges.

floridaboy, what do you mean by "problems"?

[floridaboy]

I mostly meant that it takes quite a while to get truly sharp. That said, it does get sharp, and tends to stay that way. I use a Lansky system and/or a Razor Edge tool, so I boubt that its a case of angle change. Maybe the 420, aus8, and 1095 ease of sharpening just make me impatient.

[Kingcreek]

I also use the Spayderco Sharpmaker. works great but I'm careful not to drag the point off the sticks too much.
I learned to sharpen freehand with good quality stones. As a child, my grandpa sat me on his knee and guided my hands as we sharpened his chisels and planer blades in his workshop. When he thought I was ready, he gave me a small stockman and a small stone.
There are newer, more exotic steels than D2 but it's hard to beat.

[Boats]

D2 is a great steel. It has great wear characteristics and some measure of corrosion resistance.

My secret to D2 sharpening is to use a Lansky jig with diamond hones on the 20 degree guide. I have found that D2 is genuinely harder to sharpen freehand than are most other steels, so I cheat and let the jig keep it consistent for me while using hones that can actually remove some of the metal. I have no problem getting a fine edge on well executed D2 blades.

My favorite stainless is ZDP-189. The stuff shouldn't cut, edge hold, or be tough enough, according to what is known about its composition, but it outperforms every other stainless I have used.

[hso]

floridayboy,

If you are comparing it to 420, aus8 and 1095 for ease of sharpening I think you can gather now that this is an unrealistic comparison. D2 would be expected to take much longer to sharpen than the others.

As a suggestion, don't let it actually get dull. Get a good steel and steel it after each use. You'll find that you more than double the time between sharpening and that if you sharpen it as soon as it starts to dull you'll have next to no trouble keep in the edge very, very sharp all the time.

[Hawk]

Something I only recently learned of is the Spydie "Mule Team".

Looks like a fun way to get a steel education.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=445613

[hso]

Mule Team is an interesting idea, but it's a multi year effort. Good for me, not so good, maybe, for others.

[coelacanth]

If you are using diamond hones then your sharpening equipment is up to the task of taking metal off regardless of the steel in question. Larger sharpeners are easier to use whether they be stones or diamond hones or ceramics. Make sure you understand the edge geometry and sharpening angles. I find that most factory grinds are a bit on the blunt side and benefit from some thinning of the blade just back of the edge. If necessary practice a bit on an inexpensive blade to get the details right before taking on your more difficult pieces. Good luck.

[RonSC]

floridaboy:

If D2 is giving you a fit stay away from S30V...:what: This stuff is harder than Chinese Arithmetic. !!!:)

Ron

[bowfin]

When you are sharpening a knife, you are "wearing away" or abrading away enough material to form a new cutting edge.Regardless of what methods or equipment used to sharpen a knife, a blade from D2 steel will take longer since it is more resistant to abrasion and wear, even if that abrasion and wear is in the form of sharpening.

I have made two knives out of D2 steel before I found out that I could buy one a lot easier than I could make them. The double tempering after the heat treating gave me fits. Still, the guys who ended up with them swear by them keeping an edge.

I can't prove it, but my perception is that a high carbon steel will take a keener edge and made "sharper" than any of the stainless steels, even those stainless steels with a higher carbon content.

[Valkman]

but my perception is that a high carbon steel will take a keener edge and made "sharper" than any of the stainless steels

Me too, as far as I've worked with them. O1 gets much sharper then the ATS-34 I've used. I've milled a integral out of D2 but haven't ground it yet.

On sharpening much also depends on what type of grind it is. I'm not much on flat-ground knives because over time they'll turn into a chisel. :) A good hollow grind will keep sharp for a long long time.

[mp510]

In all honesty, I have never had a problem with any of the following:


1095
420
440
any of the low AUS's
Victorinox Steel



The only steel I have a problem with is the dollar store steels that rust when touched or simply carried. Other than that, I'm very liberal as to what I'll accept.

[JTW Jr.]

course that depends on who does the hollow grinds as well and also the size of the wheel used ;)
I would doubt most people will use a knife to the point where they notice the difference.
I have a Hossom in S30v and a BLackwood in S30v that are 2 of the sharpest knives I have ever handles , the Hossom has a convex edge , while the Blackwood has a reg edge ( unsure of the angle ).

You can get em all sharp , some just take more work.
I sharpened my Strider PT on the edge pro apex and it is a hell of a slicer.

[Valkman]

Chisel! :D LOL

John, I just got off the phone with Lovett. Man with a great guy!

[JTW Jr.]

oh fine , you are gabbing it up with the big wigs while I am in the shop hand filing ( 20 LPI checkering file ) thumb serrations on the spine of 17 fixed blades that are headed for Paul Bos this week.

;)

[Valkman]

neener neener.

:neener: