[TimeToShoot]

Good evening: My ruger Mk I 5" bull barrel has been shot a lot. Accuracy is about 1" with match ammo at 25 yds. (I think it should be better) If I could find another barrel, is changing them out as easy as unscrewing one and screwing the other in? The new barrel would be a Ruger factory 6" stainless bull barrel from a Mk II pistol. If the phrase "minor fitting may be required" is the answer, what would you do to improve the accuracy of the current barrel? Any thoughts and suggestions are greatly appreciated>>!!
When it's timetoshoot, be sure your powder's dry!!

mike

[jaybar]

In the simplest of terms changing a barrel does mean unscrewing one and screwing in the other. Problem is that unscrewing the current one requires special fixtures to hold the receiver to avoid distorting it. The current barrel is screwed in with a significant crush fit and removing it is not an easy task. Then when you go to screw in the next barrel you will have to contend with the likelihood that the barrel won't line up correctly and you'll need a lathe to set the shoulder back to line things up correctly. Not a job for the under-tooled and uninitiated.
I doubt that your barrel is "shot out". That's almost impossible to do. It might be leaded up or the crown may be damaged. Clean the barrel really well and if you still get unacceptable groups, have the barrel recrowned. Shouldn't cost more than $25.

[DWARREN123]

Is it scoped? I would think that 1 inch at 25 yards is pretty good for a off the shelf 22lr pistol.

[RavenVT100]

If your .22 pistol barrel is "shot out" it would be the first one I've heard of that happening with. How many rounds have been through it?

I suspect that it very well may be a crown issue as those here have been suggesting.

[BSlacker]

The Mark series barrel is threaded and screwed into the reciever very very tight. I change them with a barrel vise that is used for rifle barrels it is big and bolted to a very stout metal bench. You must use a special receiver wrench that fits the receiver like a glove or you risk warping it. The barrel is tapered and that adds to the complexity of clamping it. I use oak wood blocks that have about 2 hours each in filing to get the taper close enough to work. Then when installing the new barrel it will have to be timed to the receiver so when it is final tight it will line the extracter grove up and the sights will be straight. Timing is done by cutting the face a small amount so the barrel stops screwing in by hand at about the 10 oclock position. Then put back in vise and tighten like crazy until the sights are straight and BTW you can't see the sights because of the vise is in the way. If you go to far start over but only once. If using a used barrel you only get one try as the shoulder is thin from the second fit. You do have a lathe don't you?
Just send it back to Ruger and get a new barrel free. Shipping is cheap compared to a receiver wrench and lathe. Your mileage may vary.
And yes I have shot out a Mark 1 barrel but I started in 1959 and just changed it in 2004. Raised myself and a good buddy and my kid with it you could tell it had rifling but very little. It was cleaned several times over the decades. :)

[Sunray]

I'd be changing ammo before I changed the barrel. Just because you're using match ammo doesn't mean your pistol likes it.

[TimeToShoot]

Well I asked for it didn't I? Thanks for the technical advice, I will either buy a new pistol or try the crowning idea. A new pistol sounds better each time I say it, new pistol hummm.. there is a gun show this weekend...
Enjoy and thanks again.

mike

[Zeke/PA]

My Ruger Mk1 is over 40 years old and is shot about 500 times / year.
It is definitely not shot out as yet.
1 inch at 25 yards ? That sounds darn good to me.
Truthfully, I think it would take a damn good rifle to do as well.
Zeke

[Plink]

Mike, I have to echo what the others have said. I doubt your barrel is shot out. I have a 22/45 that's going on 100,000 rounds and it's not even close to shot out. Give it a good (but SAFE-no brushes) cleaning, check the crown, check the chamber, etc. I doubt if it'll shoot any better than 1 inch at 25 yards, even when new.

If you want more accuracy, you might look into having Clark Custom rebarrel it for you with one of their match barrels, or buying a Pac-Lite barrelled receiver for it. I bought one of the Pac-Lites and I love it! It wasn't as expensive as rebarreling and shoots amazingly well. Being aluminum, it's a lot lighter and balances nicely too. Of course my gun has a polymer frame, so it was a bit top heavy before the Pac-Lite.

[Buzztail]

my MKI at 175k- I did rebarrel as it was pretty rough, but mostly from cleaning. Later when accuracy started going south, I recrowned it. I doubt I'll wear another one out. I seldom clean the bore on that one anymore, just hose it down with brake cleaner and put it up:D

[highlander 5]

just a side here its damn near impossible to wear out a 22 rf barrel of any kind have it recrowned as the cost of a new barrel would be expensive cheaper to buy a new pistol. If you do buy a new Ruger stay away from the Mk IIIs they are a bitch to assemble and disassemble.

[Magnumite]

I chatted with a major smith, a Guild member. He did alot of Rugers, too, a few years ago. I had him mill a Bo Mar cut in a 1911 slide for me and told him I would like him to also rebarrel my MkII bull barrel. He told me those guns were utterly accurate, to buy one box of every brand and load possible, sit down at the bench, and to use with bags and find the best load. He told me anything else was a waste unless I couldn't get a good group with any loads I tried.
I agree with the others, if the rifling is good, clean it real good and get it crowned.

[scrat]

i love my mark II. I can say without a doubt it probably has had over 10000 rounds put through it. in fact i just used it today. the only problem i have ever had with it is the front site. Every time i go out shooting after about a half hour of shooting the stupid screw comes loose and i have to tighten it. I have tried everything from locktite to teflon. it will just not stay tight. it is the original screw too. im just afraid that the threads are getting worn out. IF this happens i dont know what to do as i imagine a gunsmith will have to put on a new barrel as i dont think you can tap a hole that small. Especially located on top of the barrel

[Buzztail]

i dont think you can tap a hole that small

I tap to 0-80, and heli-coil 2-56.

[scrat]

so your saying it can be tapped. I guess i need to take it to a gunsmith to get repaired then. Wow thats good to know.

[Jim K]

Ruger pistols are not easy to rebarrel, in part because of the way they are made and the barrel installed. They thread the barrel and cut the feed ramp, ejector slot and front sight boss. Then they screw the barrel into a threaded piece of blank tubing. Using the feed ramp as a reference point, they machine the ejection port, magazine opening, and all the rest of the receiver. So they can really crank down on barrel installation since there is no need to stop at a any given point or line anything up.

Jim

[Magnumite]

Jim, did you see that at Ruger or is that research info. Interest process. It makes sense.

[ntsqd]

Turned up this thread in a search. I am in want of having the barrel on a Mk I replaced with a match grade barrel in the factory Mk II 10" bull contour. So far my searches for a reputable shop to do this work has turned up Clark and Volquartsen, though I do not yet know if Volquartsen will do this exact job. Clark only offers a non-tapered 10" barrel. I like the balance of the 10" taper.

I am looking for suggestions for other reputable shops that can do match quality work.

Just to head off other suggestions, I have a very specific goal in mind for this piece and a Mk II will not do the job so just buying one isn't an option.

[ntsqd]

NuuB-itis?
I'd have thot someone would have a suggestion or two by now. Oh, well........