Handloading for accuracy...


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Afy
April 18, 2007, 01:54 PM
What additional steps tools would be needed for loading with accuracy as a prime criteria.

I am loading for 300 Win Mag and 222 Rem Mag.

Current proposed loads are:

190 gr HPBT with 65 Gr of H4831 (working loads up to Max) with Large Rifle Primer.
200 GR HPBT with 68 Gr of H 4831 with Large Rifle Primer.
Using once fired (thorugh my rifle) Federal Cases.

For the Remmi:

52 Gr HPBT over 24 and 25 grains of IMR 4895. Small Rifle Primer in Once fired Sako Brass fired through my rifle.


DO order standard dies or ro I need to swtich to compitition dies? Also I plan on doing only neck resizing for better accuracy and work loads up slowly.

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Eagle103
April 18, 2007, 02:05 PM
The neck size only dies are a big part of accuracy. Also, you want to seat your bullets about .020-.030 off touching the rifling.

Idano
April 18, 2007, 02:21 PM
Afy,

Your question is well sort of loaded, by that I mean what kind of accuracy are you trying to achieve? If you're talking the normal John Q Public type accuracy where 1-1/2" groups are good at 100 yards with a rifle then you should be good with standard dies, a loads from any of the reloading manuals that list loads tested in a barrel the same length and rate of twist, and follow good reloading protocol you should be fine.

However, if you you want tighter groups and longer distances then you are going to have to do some work. Which requires building up a load for your specific gun. Then if you still require better accuracy I would recommend checking some of the bench rest forums. Serious reloaders who want 10 shot stringers only use single head stamp brass and sort it by weight, they also do the same with their bullets and most use bench rest dies, but not all.

Afy
April 18, 2007, 02:34 PM
Well I would definetly want to shoot about 0.5 MOA 5 shot and >1 MOA 10 shot groups at 100 meters, and going to about 1 to 1.5 MOA at 500.

The rifles are capable of it and I would like to think so it the shooter can achieve it with practise (I like to flatter myself).

It will all be off either a Bench or Bipod. I am not about to try offhand or prone with a 300 ...

All my brass will be from a single manufacturer from a single lot. If that is what you mean by single headstamp.

I do appreciate that finding the right accuracy window and loads is going to take a while and a lot of shooting.

I dont own a chronograph and frankly cant affoard one they sell for upwards of USD 750 around here for some reason.

Simillarly I do not have access to Sierra Matchking bullets or a certain powders. Getting the Hogdon and IMR was a 1 month wait special order. People generally use Vectan around here.
Primers: Dynamit Nobel is about the only real choice.

fineredmist
April 18, 2007, 02:53 PM
Welcome to the insane world of accurate rifle shooting.

Remember this word "CONSISTENT" as it is the key to this exercize. Your loads must be consistent as well as your shooting, one is no good without the other.

You must first establish a over all lenght (OAL) for your round. If you do not have a measuring tool then you do it the old fashioned way. Get the OAL for your bullet from a loading book and then load (batches of 5) in increments of .005", 2 batches shorter, 1 at and 2 batches longer. Test fire and see how the groups work out. You may have to do this more than once. Use minimum powder charges for this testing.

After you have established a OAL then experiment with powders and charges. You will find that charges that are 75-80% of the max will give you the best results.

I have found the Lee Collet Neck Sizing die, the Lee Seating die and the Lee Factory Crimp die to be a good combination for consistent accurate loads. I recommend the use of the LEE factory crimp die as it will give you a more uniform neck tension and therefore more uniform pressure curve.

Your OAL should vary no more than +/- .002" and you powder charges not more than +/- .3 of a grain. The tighter you hold to "0" the better.
Remember, "CONSISTENT" is the key. It takes a bit of work but the satisfaction in working up fine loads is well worth it. Take your time, record everything and you will succeed.

JackOfAllTradesMasterAtNone
April 18, 2007, 05:52 PM
I won't disagree with anything written so far.

I'm not a Lee die guy, Personally I would look more toward the Redding, Forster or RCBS BR dies for the accuracy you're looking for. Case trim length is important, as is OAL, and headspace dimmensions. Once those are figured out, then yes, test load, Shoot. There are good bullets out there, but most in my neck of the woods shoot Sierra MatchKing hp bt's for long distance stuff.

I don't know where you're at, but a shootin Chony can be had mail order for ~$100.

Another thing to add to your arsenal of reloading tools is a case neck inside/outside uniform trimmer/reamer. You're going to need that if you're expecting 1/2moa. You'll also want a means to test/set the linear uniformness of the loaded round. -Even with good brass, bullets, and better dies, there will be some that are not quite perfect. And yes, consistancy is the objective.

I would search for one of the Benchrest forums and post questions regarding specific books about .30cal and .222cal loading for accuracy.

-Steve

Afy
April 20, 2007, 03:19 PM
I don't know where you're at, but a shootin Chony can be had mail order for ~$100.

Not here in France you can not unfortunately...

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