Model 18, .22LR - cylinder cleaning?


April 22, 2007, 11:38 PM
Shot a bunch on Saturday, and had some problems getting cartridges to fully/easily seat. Spent a lot of time cleaning the fouling out of the cylinder. :mad: I'm not even sure I got it all. I would like to polish the charging holes, and have a couple questions-

1) Should I do this?

2) If yes, what is best method/tool?


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scratchy wilson
April 22, 2007, 11:42 PM
Badger, a quick question:

Is the firing pin on the -18 frame or hammer mounted? Something I've been wondering about for a while now.

April 23, 2007, 12:36 AM
frame mounted (rimfire .22lr).

April 23, 2007, 12:57 AM
The chambers probably don't need polishing, and if they do, it's best left to a pro gunsmith with the right tooling.

To clean revolver chambers, buy a couple of M16 bore brushes and use it with a Tee handle to scrub the chambers.

"Screw" the brush into the chamber then give it a few turns, push the rest of the way through, then pull back out.
This will usually clean all fouling out.

April 23, 2007, 02:41 AM
Every few range trips, I take a Q-tip, and soak it with CLP, open the cylinder, hold the extractor out, and clean both the cylinder and the underside of the extractor. It takes quite a while, but eventually some crud will build up under there. It won't cost you anything to give it a try, and maybe it will help.

Ala Dan
April 23, 2007, 03:27 AM
Most definitely, clean under the "star", better known as the extractor. Crud
does biuld up under here, and can cause all kind's of problems in revolvers.

April 23, 2007, 08:44 AM
If I'm not mistaken, all S&W rimfires are frame mounted FP's. Joe

Jim Watson
April 23, 2007, 09:25 AM
The underside of the star will stay clean longer if kept dry, with just a little lube on the extractor rod. Brush the chambers hard.

Best not to try to "polish" the chambers, there are a lot of .22s, even good ones like S&W, that foul and give hard loading and extraction because the chambers are already oversize and let crud blow by the brass.

April 23, 2007, 11:15 AM
Excessive fouling is the only complaint about my 617. My older Taurus model 96 without recessed chambers will shoot a box of .22 without hard loading or sticky extraction. The 617 might go 60 rounds before everything becomes difficult.

It is annoying but unless there is a brand of rimfire out there that shoots extremely clean I will accept the frequent range cleaning as a cost of cheap shooting.

April 24, 2007, 02:00 PM
I suggest trying a few different brands of ammo and keeping the charge holes and extractor star clean and dry. Excess lube combined with unburned powder can grab the brass case when it swells during firing, making extraction a pain.

I would not polish or burnish the charge holes.

April 25, 2007, 11:12 PM
I use Hoppe's Benchrest Solvent on my S&W Model 34 4" cylinder. Just follow the instructions on the bottle usually one cleaning session removes all fouling. First time you might need a second application. I agree with leaving the extractor "star" dry. Just wipe it off. Lube will only cause a build-up of powder and dirt.

April 26, 2007, 01:24 AM
I've run into a similar issue w/ my K22. The chambers are tight. From what I've read, Masterpiece revolvers are known for this. There are certain brands of ammo (e.g. CCI Green Tag) that I don't use because I'd have to force the rounds into the chambers, much less try to extract them.

Federal SV ammo has been fine - RWS, Aquila and lapua SV rounds haven't been a problem either.

But I still have to clean the chambers after every session.:D

April 26, 2007, 09:14 AM
I think there is enough differences between various makes of ammo to try a few types. Maybe the "milk carton" specials that a lot of shooters like is not the best ammo for your K22.

April 26, 2007, 09:51 AM
Ammo sticking in the cylinders of the older S&W model 17s is a pretty common complaint and probably in the model 18 also. I polished mine with a small dowel and crocus cloth. If you try this, DO NOT overdo it. Certain brands of .22s are worse than others about this so you might try different kinds first, and be sure to clean the cylinder chambers thoroughly.

April 27, 2007, 11:43 AM
Someone, I can't remember where, recommended chucking a pistol cleaning rod with a bronze bristle brush into an electric drill to really get gunk out of .22 revolver chambers.

I tried it on my 617, and it really worked well... but my cordless drill ran out of juice after three chambers. Being a very patient man, and also a genius, I immediately thought of my Dremel.

I was actually using the end bit of a three piece rifle rod with the brush, and my hands were a little slippery with solvent, and I kind of bumped the Dremel RPM control all the way up when I meant to slow it down.

No harm to the 617, fortunately, but the rod segment and brush kind of pretzled, and I discovered just how much of myself and the room I could cover with only a tiny bit of filthy solvent. It was impressive.

So long story short, the drill trick works pretty well, but stick with low RPM's, and no dremels.

April 27, 2007, 05:14 PM
45 Badger,
You might try using ammo with less outside libe. For example the CCI-SV and Aguilla SE have alot of lube on the outside and tend to gunk up the chambers. I shoot a lot of the federal copper plated/washed hivelocity ammo in my S&W 19 and it requires the very minimal amount of chamber brushing or cleaning.

April 27, 2007, 09:15 PM
I find the Federal hi-velocity shoots cleaner in my 617 than the Winchester X-pert, which also seems to leave a lot of lead around my forcing cone. I can't shoot well enough to determine an accuracy difference between them.

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