First Center Fire Rifle


April 27, 2007, 02:54 AM
Thanks to many of the guys here, i have been having a great time with my ruger 10/22 and reloading for my pistols, but the time has come to upgrade to a centerfire rifle. I will be using it for target shooting at the local range which has 50,100,200,300 yards. No hunting. I was planning on getting a Remington 700 in a .223 but lately have been thinking about an ar-15 clone like the bushmaster. I have heard good things about the bushmaster and bad things including its hard to clean, has problems with carbon build ups, rings wear out, etc. But i heard its extremely accurate up to 1000 yards even though its semi auto. So my question is what do you guys think would be best for my situation? If i go with the bushmaster, i was looking at the target .223 with the a3 upper. its got a 20 inch barrel. I was also looking at the varmint special with a 24 inch barrel but its like $300 more and i still need a scope and rings. Any advice you guys can give me so i can be happy with my purchase as i was with my 10/22?

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Nomad, 2nd
April 27, 2007, 03:04 AM
500 with the .223, not 1,000

out to 300... just about any rifle. I recomend an EBR (Evil Black Rifle) as they are more fun.

Due to the price of ammo the AK74 is worth looking into.

I'd also look into the AR108B



April 27, 2007, 03:32 AM
Sorry i should have mentioned i am reloading, and will reload .223. ebr? is that like an ar-15?

April 27, 2007, 08:13 AM
EBR= Evil Black Rifle. Just a nick name for an AR15 rifle.

April 27, 2007, 11:41 AM
thought so, i am picking it up today i think!

Bushmaster XM-15 20in Heavy Barrel A3 Rifle for $999 ($100 less than their website) i am in nj so thats why its not like $700 like some of you probably pay. I was thinking of the varminter and varmint special and the vmatch, but i could always upgrade to that later, plus a 20 in heavy barrel should be good for shooting up to 300 yards with high accuracy i assume. Is this a good choice? In an hour once i pick it up i am stuck with it of course. and yes, and ebr is so much fun, thats why i want one so bad and decided not get get the boring rem 700 (which still rocks but is a little boring).

April 27, 2007, 04:06 PM
It sounds like you want to stick with a semi-auto, but if it's accuracy you're after, IMHO, you can't go wrong (at half the $$$) with .223 CZ-527 boltgun.

If you don't care for the protruding magazine on the 527, there's an EZ fix - I had a 'smith, over on RFC, shorten my mag to a flush mag. It really streamlines the gun.

April 28, 2007, 12:47 AM
Well i ended up spending a bit more than i wanted, i bought the Bushmaster Predator. Its got a 20 inch heavy fluted barrel, floated barrel with aluminum hand guard, competition trigger, hogue hand grip, etc. Real nice gun, i also bought a BSA sweet 223 scope 6-18x40mm. Looks like its going to be alot of fun.

Also, the guy at the store said that it was actually better that this gun does NOT have the chrome lined barrel. He said that the chrome lined barrel takes away from accuracy thats why this gun and the varmint/target gun doesnt have a chrome lined barrel either. He said chrome lined barrel is really only needed for the jungle or if your not going to take good care of the gun and clean in regularlly. I am a little unsure if i should have ordered the varmint special which is the same gun with a 24 inch barrel....

Mr White
April 28, 2007, 10:56 AM
500 with the .223, not 1,000
ARs can be accurate out to 1000 yards. Not your average plinker, but accurized match guns shooting 80 or 90 grain bullets are shot in the 1000 yard matches at Camp Perry all the time. They aren't the most common guns on the line but they are competitive.

ARs aren't hard to accurize. Buy a good barrel and float it. That's pretty much the process. A good trigger helps a lot. Sounds like you'll have a pretty accurate gun.

What's the twist on your barrel?

April 28, 2007, 03:05 PM
the twist is 1 in 8in RH twist

Nomad, 2nd
April 28, 2007, 03:15 PM
Mr White: Agreed. But, if he were one of THOSE shooters... he wouldn't be asking us!;)

My statement was intended to reflect 'normal' shooters...
I should of been more clear.:o

Mr White
April 28, 2007, 07:41 PM
Or I shouldn't be so picky. :)

Mike, 1:8 is a good versatile twist. It'll shoot 55 grainers just fine, it'll shoot 80-90 grainers for longer range accuracy, and shoot well with anything in between.

With your gun as you describe it, it should be good out to at least 600 yards. 1:8 20" floated barrel is a standard service rifle setup for across the course matches, shot at 200, 300 and 600.

April 28, 2007, 08:00 PM
You got a good rifle. I don't really know how much accuracy improvement you will get with an un-chromed barrel as I have no experience with chrome as yet. I do find that my Preditor is very accurate and reliable with everthing but Wolff and the Serbian stuff. I have a chrome A2 upper on order just to save the Predator barrel. Probably a good, long lasting barrel but ARs turn out to be Fun To Shoot and the round count climbs pretty fast.

You will probably be happy with the 20 barrel but you have bought a Barbie
Doll and can always order a 24" upper if you want.

Bartholomew Roberts
April 28, 2007, 09:22 PM
The Predator is an excellent rifle. Really, I don't think you'd gain much besides a little more velocity (and not even that much) from the 24" barrel; but if you want that, it is easy enough to swap out.

Mr White
April 28, 2007, 09:27 PM
I don't know how much bragging I'd do, mec. .78 inch or not, it looks like the rabbit is still alive! :D

April 28, 2007, 09:45 PM
Not bragging. I see too many people posting .25" groups with 16 inch carbines and generic ball ammunition to do that!

April 29, 2007, 01:15 AM
Thanks guys! Mec, great pic, i am glad you like the predator, it looks like an awesome gun! I bought a bsa sweet 223 6-18x40mm scope for it too, the scope is very cheap $150 and i was very impressed with another bsa sweet 22 i saw at the range for the money i liked it better than the 300 nikons.

Its awesome you can change so much stuff with the gun, its one of the reasons i got it instead of a remington 700. I appreciate you posting the target picture too.

Another good thing is that i am not getting a rifle sitting on the shelf for 3 months with every moron in the area playing with it, dry firing it, sweating on it, etc, etc, mine will be brand new in the box... the gun stores sell you ones that have been on display as "Brand new" to me, they are "Display Models" or "Floor Models" but of course they wont give a discount.

Anything i should buy or any must haves or tips/tricks that i should know? I was thinking of getting the "Best Gun Vise" that allows you to work on/clean ar-15's pretty nicely. I was going to get a 10 round mag since it only comes with a 5 rounder too.

April 29, 2007, 06:28 AM
I bought several 30 round mags because the liberals hate them at least three times as much as ten round mags. The five rounder that came with the rifle is real handy for shootiing from the bench and i suspect a 20 round mag would be just about as good for that.

That type of group doesn't happen for me with generic ball ammunition like S&B or fed 193 . I usually get three or four rounds under an inch at 100 and one or two slightly out. I eliminated this with my reloades by weighing and sorting the brass. Even so, the ball ammo will stay well within these half sized rabbit targets.

April 29, 2007, 09:58 AM
Mike - Awesome choice. Mec - excellent shooting.

April 30, 2007, 01:00 AM
btw what is best to clean the butt stock etc? its such a weird material that cant be cleaned without lint getting all over it, etc.

May 1, 2007, 01:46 AM
Also am i going to need a punch set or anything fancy for cleaning/working on the ar-15?

Bartholomew Roberts
May 1, 2007, 09:10 AM
No punch set is needed for most cleaning; but one will come in handy if you want to change triggers, change a gas tube or barrel or a few other tasks. You don't need one for routine maintenance though.

May 2, 2007, 01:51 AM
I got the rifle today, awesome! I cant wait to shoot this thing. is there any trick to cleaning this thing? i need to clean the barrel before shooting according to the manual. i have a gunslick 22 caliber kit that i got with my 10/22, i assume its all the same though since its still a 22.

May 2, 2007, 02:19 AM
The kit you have now will work fine, but you'll also want to add an M-16 chamber brush. These have an extra wide area of bristles that clean the recess which the bolt lugs lock into. Your local gunshop should have one.

Have fun with your new AR.

May 2, 2007, 03:25 AM
funny, they actually gave me one with the gun, lucky me i guess. i assume the manual describes the cleaning procedure in detail without leaving out any pertinent details? i havent had time to read it yet. i am so afraid to touch this thing, i dont normally spend this much money on something, actually i cant think of ever spending this much money on something other than a car and my lcd tv. funny considering its made for war, so its built pretty well, and i am afriad to put my greasy fingers on it :)

The competition trigger on the predator is truely amazing. i am extremely happy i didnt get the basic model, even though its lacking the chrome barrel that would have made me feel a little safer with it.

May 2, 2007, 10:04 PM
ok the manual says the proper break in procedure for the predator (non chrome lined barrel) is to clean it after every 20 shots during first 60 rounds. the following way:

clean with shooters choice
clean with shooters choice copper remover
clean with jb paste.

and to do this like i said every 20 rounds up to 60. I went to the store today to buy the stuff and the guy said not to use the jb paste, that the barrel companies are saying that the paste like jb paste and breakfree paste is really bad for the barrel and even voids some warranties. i am unsure now what i should do. i am planning on taking all the cleaning stuff to the range and doing this every 20 shots right at the range so i dont go home and clean it after 20 rounds 3 times. it also says to lube everything in "Breakfree" (i assume they mean breakfree clp)... Anyone with experience with this rifle and whats best to do?

the guy said i should get this cleaning pin thing that holds it open to clean it and a bore cleaning guide and one piece cleaning rod, any experience with this stuff? highly recommended?

May 2, 2007, 10:26 PM
I followed their break-in routine.actually, I cleaned and de-coppered a bit more often that every 20 shots. I used some cleaning chemestry I got from bushmaster and used sweets 7.62 for the copper. At first, quite a bit of copper came out- blue patch. Now, it takes quite a while to build up so, I guess the break=in routine works. I didn't use jandb bore paste but some of the local bench resters do and are not ruining their barrels. when I get through, I always wipe the copper solvent out with a regular bore cleaner, dry the bore pretty well and run a lightly oiled patch through it.

by the way. don't use paper towels for patches. ( and don't tell anybody I did) what happened is that a small piece tore off and got in the way just enough that the rifle wouldnt fire. Went click and all but was just enough out of battery that the firing pin wouldn't hit the primer.

May 3, 2007, 05:44 AM
thanks mec, good info. i am thinking of ordering the jp enterprises bore guide its pricey but looks nice and figure might as well buy it once. i am also trying to find that sinclair cleaning pin thing that holds the gun open while you clean....

May 3, 2007, 07:59 AM
When I clean I like to take the upper off the lower and my vise will hold the uppper alone just fine.
You want a rod guide,this is a plastic or metal tube that slides into the rieciver and chamber to guide your rod into the barrel.
You also want a one piece rod. I use and like the Dewey with the jag as you can wrap a patch around it or spear a patch which saves you from threading the needle with the normal type of patch holders. Get yourself a bag of pre cut patches. Lots of the cleaning supplies at your local store will cost an arm and a leg in smaller sizes,start with that but then mail order from midway or Natches to save on larger sizes of cleaning stuff.
Different folks think highly or poorly about the bore paste , you will make you own choice, I am conservative and use it only now and then. The point is with your non crome barrel (which will be slightly more accurate) you need to clean not only powder fouling but copper based jacket material with a specific cleaner. Any of the regular cleaners will take some of it but a complete job needs a specific copper solvent , I use Butches Bore Scrub,I have used Sweets 7.62 in the past.Both are nasty smelling strong chemicals , take precautions and read directions ,proper use requires some soaking

Bartholomew Roberts
May 3, 2007, 10:00 AM
I've got a stainless match barrel myself and let me just say that the foaming bore cleaners like Wipeout are worth trying. I used to use Shooter's Choice myself and I've been really impressed with Wipeout.

May 3, 2007, 10:17 AM
Great choice for your chosen use!

I have a Bushy XPM15 E2S which is just their copy of the HBAR. It shoots great - 1" at 100 yards with Hot Shot SS109 ammo (no longer offered unfortunately as it really likes this ammo). I need to work up some good handloads for this as the Hot Shot won't last forever!

mec is right - Bushy's can and do often shoot much better than this. Especially the target/varmint models.

Here's a pic with an eotech scope and mount that I recently got:

I think I'll get a carbine with flat top in the near future (given funds forthcoming) and put the eotech on that.

May 3, 2007, 10:00 PM
Ok i brought the gun to the range for the first time today. After taking it out of the box i cleaned the barrel well with shooters choice, did not touch or clean anything else including the bolt.

i fired one round and then it wouldnt fire again, so i racked the bolt, and it fired again, then it wouldnt fire again. so i tried a different brand ammo, this time it fired the first round and the bolt got stuck closed, i had to do the whole banging on the ground while pulling the bolt. and it kept not feeding from the mag right. so i tried tightening the mag catch by turning it clockwise once, no luck, tried turning it clockwise again, no luck.

it seemed like for the most part it worked best when i only loaded 3 rounds. its the stupid 5 round restricted hunting mag. does it sound like the mag? or maybe there was too much lube on the bolt assembly from the factory? it didnt say to clean it, just the barrel before shooting.

My plan is to a) buy a new 10 round mag before the range tomorrow to rule out the mag. and b) to clean the bolt assembly with clp tonight.

Any other ideas? Is this a common problem? I am a little upset that i am having problems with a brand new $1300 gun which broke my bank lol. I would appreciate any help.

Below is a picture of the damage done to the cases when they werent fed. i dont know whats crushing them, maybe a lip of the mag?

May 4, 2007, 02:15 AM
I forgot to mention, the 3 bullets in the picture above were still in the magazine or on there way out of it, but were not taken from the chamber. After the rifle didnt fire i pulled the bolt, no round flew out, i ejected the mag and found the bullets above still in the mag/partly out of the mag/hanging out of the mag diagnanolly

Any help would be greatly appreciated i want to go back to the range with the gun tomorrow but dont want to till i know whats going on.

May 4, 2007, 02:58 AM
That picture is HUGE!!! You really should crop out all the needless area around the shells.

May 4, 2007, 06:21 AM
oops, i thought photobucket would resize it, i have cropped out all the blank space, and left the bullets full size so the damage is easy to see in detail.

Bartholomew Roberts
May 4, 2007, 02:29 PM
Anytime you have a problem with an AR15, you should first check:

1) Ammunition
2) Magazine
3) Lubrication of the rifle

When you have ruled out those three elements (or at least cast doubt that they are the sole source of the problem), then start looking at the rifle and its parts.

In this case I would be willing to bet that the problem is #2. #3 may also be in play since new rifles often have some rough edges and need to run with a little more lubrication at first. Don't know where you are at; but if you can buy a GI mag to test it with (20 or 30) I would buy that instead of a 10rd. The aftermarket reduced capacity mags often have issues.

May 4, 2007, 02:49 PM
Thanks for your insight. Unfortunately, as you have probably already guessed, i live in anti-gun, pro liberal, smoking banned everywhere (even in your car in some towns) NJ. And we have a retarded 15 round max mag law. Since there is only a 10 and a 20 i am stuck with the 10. Its gotta be better than the 5 ronder though. I cleaned and lubed the gun real good last night, i will see how it goes at the range today.

May 5, 2007, 12:12 AM
Well I called bushmaster on my way to the range and there tech support thinks that the rifle was short stroking due to a gas problem. They had me tighten the gas block allen screws, i was able to tighten them about 1/4 of a turn with a small allen wrench, so its possible that was the problem because now the rifle is working great. it could also be that i cleaned the bolt carrier and parts out real good last night and didnt before i shot the gun, only the barrel was cleaned before shooting. I didnt even try my new magazine since it wasnt needed.

So hopefully it stays working cause its working great.

Does anyone own a sweet 223? I am having a problem getting it zeroed and the picture looks like crap compared to the sweet 22's i have seen. i am trying to figure out how these turrets work, i think you zero it at 100 yards and then take the turret off and set the turret at 100 yards but i am not sure. no instructions came with the scope except real basic general scope stuff. i also cant figure out how to focus it, i guess i cant, the paralax isnt a focus from what i understand.

Bartholomew Roberts
May 5, 2007, 12:23 AM
Well I called bushmaster on my way to the range and there tech support thinks that the rifle was short stroking due to a gas problem. They had me tighten the gas block allen screws, i was able to tighten them about 1/4 of a turn with a small allen wrench, so its possible that was the problem because now the rifle is working great.

Yes, that was probably the problem. You might want to put witness marks across the allen head screws so you can tell if they have worked loose in the future. Bushmaster really should have sent the rifle where that wouldn't be a problem to start with.

May 5, 2007, 07:35 AM
they claim they test fire every one of these. My "Target" upper came in yesterday. It's an A2 configuration ( 20", carry handle, battle sights). I got it sighted in at 25 yards according to the instructions in the bushmaster manual. After returning the elevaton knob to 300yards, it appeard to be about right, hitting several inches high at 100 yards. I had to get my windage right at one hundred yards as my perception of zero at 25 was not very close.

I also tried some of the serbian ammuniton that will not function in my Predator upper. The A2 type eats it just fine.

May 5, 2007, 08:27 AM

Congratulations on that new rifle! Thanks for posting this thread. It contains some real good reading! I have the exact rifle you just bought. You will enjoy it. They are quite accurate! I would like to pick up one of Bushmaster's heavy varmint rifles. From all I have read, they are capable of consistent .5 MOA groups. That's unbelievable for an autoloader.

The problem for me, as others have hinted at here, is "free-price-abuse"-market. It is common to see Bushmasters listed for $150.00 to $200.00 over MSRP!!! Point and case, Bushmaster lists its MSRP for the Model 15 pistol at $970.00! I can buy it at Jay's in Clare, MI for $699.00! At Target in Royal Oak, MI, they had it listed at $1,095.00! Same pistol, different business. When I noticed Bushmaster's MSRPs listed, I confronted the workers at target about it and they retorted, "We have been after Bushmaster to remove the MSRP from their website! We can't sell our Bushmasters as long as they continue posting the MSRP!"

The rifle you just bought for $999.00, I paid $1,195.00 +.06 % tax at Target!!! That's "Jokeland" County for of the perversely rich, and morally bankrupt!

Closing note, if you want to test that rifle out for its maximum accuracy, consider one of the BSA 36X scopes. I bought mine (on sale) at MidwayUSA for $59.00ish! That's a lot of reach out magnification. It's the scope I use when I want to see how accurate of my long guns is.

Oh wow...almost a container of Moly Slide Lubricant from Bushmaster! It is a must use product for durability. (Link provided):

May 5, 2007, 10:28 AM
I use that molyslide on the sear as they recommend. One canister should last a long time.

New "Target" upper on predator lower:

Almost there on the sight regulation:

Adventitious Runny Babbit. Not the best choice of rifle for this but the ball load eviscerated him without ruining any meat.

May 10, 2007, 04:43 AM
Well unforunately my little problem has returned. Or never went away is more likely... at the range yesterday i tried loading the winchester ammo i had from day 1, it short stroked, didnt feed and the brass landed less than 1 foot away, 5 feet less than normal. so i stopped shooting and checked the 2 little allen screws in the gas block, they were able to be tightened a tiny bit, so i went home took them out and put locktite on them, and tried it the next day. American eagle as always shot well with no problems and the brass went flying. Next, i shot the same winchester, short stroke, no feed, problems. So i opened another box of winchester, same problem. So i looked around and found a guy shooting almost the exact same bushmaster at the range, he kindly fired my "possibly faulty" winchester ammo with great results, no short stroke, the brass went flying 10 feet and he said it was even more powerful than his custom loads and raised the hit point, so its not the ammo.

So now i am at a juncture of, shoot the ammo it likes or send it back for repair. I am not sure what i should do at this point... i was thinking of doing some hand loads and testing them at "start loads" and if they dont work def. send it back but if they do work, then maybe just keeping it the way it is. its weird it really works fine with american eagle and it did work with remington ammo over the past week but i havent tried it since, i will do that asap too.

Any help? everything seems fine, as far as i can tell, either the barrel hole into the gas block is too small or misaligned, we cant find anything else that could possibly be the problem...

bushmaster gurus?

Bartholomew Roberts
May 10, 2007, 08:19 AM
What type of Winchester ammo are you firing? Is it marked 5.56mm or .223? Also, take a look at the rim of the fired cartridge and see what kind of bite the extractor is getting on the rim.

So i looked around and found a guy shooting almost the exact same bushmaster at the range

Did he have a Predator barrel or the standard Bushmaster barrel? It makes a difference because the two barrels use different chamber sizes and the standard chamber is chrome-lined as well.

May 10, 2007, 02:42 PM
It was marked 5.56 on the box. I think it also said .223 in small letters.

Isnt the predator supposed to shoot both? I think the american eagle said .223 on the box, so did the remington.

Now that i think of it, he didnt have the exact same gun, it looked the same but it had a 24 inch barrel and he custom made it.

Are you saying i have a.223 chamber and he had a 5.56 chamber and the tiny difference in headspace makes a difference on the gas system?

EDIT: I just checked bushmaster's website and it says for caliber 5.56 or .223 on the products page.

Bartholomew Roberts
May 10, 2007, 03:11 PM
Well if he had a 24" custom barrel then all bets are off. There is no telling what the chamber dimensions were.

Are you saying i have a.223 chamber and he had a 5.56 chamber and the tiny difference in headspace makes a difference on the gas system?

The problem you are describing is a classic case of symptoms describing a chamber that is cut too small or too tight. I checked the Predator's specs and it is supposed to have a "hybrid" chamber similar to the Wylde that shoots either 5.56 or .223.

However, if the Winchester is marked 5.56, shoots very hot in another rifle and short strokes in yours while .223 AE works just fine, that is a classic example of a chamber problem. It typically happens when you fire 5.56mm in a .223 chamber. With the shorter leade of the .223 and the higher pressure of the 5.56mm, pressures build up to a high level. It generally isn't dangerous; but in a gas impingement rifle it means that the pressure is high enough that the bolt starts trying to extract before the pressure has dropped and the brass has shrunk away from the chamber wall. By the time the pressure drops to designed levels, the bolt has used all its energy and short strokes.

I would recommend calling back Bushmaster and explaining that you are still having short-stroking with Winchester 5.56; but that Federal AE223 runs just fine. They will likely want to blame the ammo. If they go that route, explain that the same Winchester 5.56 ammo was fired with no problem from a 24" target barrel. Suggest to them that you are concerned the chamber dimensions are not correct and ask them what they intend to do to fix the problem.

However, if you want to be on the safe side first, then just buy some commerical .223 loads and some military surplus 5.56mm loads. Try both and record where you have function issues. You might also consider making witness marks across the set screws of the gas block to insure that this does not contribute to the problem. I know it sucks to win the "You got the problem gun" lottery; but the Predator is a very quality rifle when built correctly and I expect Bushmaster will correct the problem fairly quickly. They have most of the same staff they had in the past and have always been good in the past; but a year or so ago they were acquired by a new company. So please let us know how they handle your concerns.

May 10, 2007, 04:14 PM
I got into these ARs last summer with the Predator. Possibly about time as they have been out for about fifty years now. I decided I would not pay attention to anything I saw or read until I had some shooting under my belt and had been through the owner's manual several times. At this point, I'm starting to be able to evaluate the quality of information from various other sources.
Let me say that Mr. Bartholomew Roberts is providing a wealth of credible and interesting data. He's a rare resource

May 11, 2007, 01:04 AM
Mr Roberts, I thank you for your amazing insight. It sounds like you hit the nail right on the head, based on my limited knowledge its the only thing that makes sense. If the gas hole was too small or misaligned as i previously thought, the .223 wouldnt work (especially since its less powerful/pressure)

I did call bushmaster today before talking to you, they did not blame the ammo actually ( i didnt really give them the option to, since i had already tested it).
they gave me an rma and said to sent the upper receiver to them via ups. they said the turn around time currently is 7 to 10 days, not bad. I will probably shoot some .223 this weekend (assuming its safe) and will send it out monday. I am betting they will either fix the chamber or replace the barrel. (the chamber is not removalbe from the barrel on these guns i assume?)

I do need to remove the scope, i have the leopold rings, the PRW models. I dont think they are detachable as in quick detach, maybe i should just remove the risers from the gun that the predator comes with? that way as long as i put them back in the same slot on the picatinny rail it should be close to zero.

I am not wanting to send out my favorite gun and be without a centerfire rifle during this beautiful time to shoot but i guess i dont have a choice....

Bartholomew Roberts
May 11, 2007, 01:54 PM
You're welcome. If it is a chamber problem, I expect they will hit it with a chamber reamer or polish the chamber a bit to correct the problem. The other alternative is to replace the barrel. The chamber is not removable from the barrel; but headspace is set by the barrel extension, so I suppose that might be an option too.

I am not wanting to send out my favorite gun and be without a centerfire rifle during this beautiful time to shoot but i guess i dont have a choice....

That is how I ended up with at least pairs of everything I shoot regularly. If you shoot often enough, stuff just breaks from wear and tear and it is nice to have a spare.

May 14, 2007, 01:46 AM
I am having trouble with my sweet 223 bsa scope. Its cloudy as all hell. I know i have to send it back but was thinking of getting a new one.

I was looking at the nikon buckmaster 6.5-18x40mm scope which is onsale $90 off for $260.

or the bsa target 8-32x44mm which is only $115 and has a better zoom which i might need at 300 yards. 18x seems good for 200 yards but i havent tried it at 300 so it might be good enough if its clearer.

Any recommedations?

May 15, 2007, 01:33 AM
I ended up ordering the Nikon Buckmaster 6.5-18x40mm BDC Reticle scope. They are refunding my sweet 223 that is totally messed up. Its going to be so nice owning a nikon scope, i am so sick of these cheapo's.

May 24, 2007, 02:02 AM
mike back your magazine release button out one more turn. i had the same prob on my new predator when i first got it. what happens is the mag catch where it goes into the slot on the clip is actually rubbing the side of the cartidges and not allowing them to feed up in time till the bolt is almost already closed.i had the same fubar cases. an retired armorer for the army told me exactly that was my great ever since. also had the loose gas block screws from factory afterwards. put some blue locktight on em. this was also my first AR. I LOVE IT.

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