Cleaning methods/tips for revolvers.....


May 4, 2007, 03:24 AM
Hey guys, I'm fairly new to revolvers... I've got a K22 (blued) and a 640 (stainless) I'm just wondering what products you find to be the best for cleaning, oiling, etc. and what methods/tools you guys use. I don't have much experience with this at all, so if you feel like getting detailed, thats cool with me. thanks

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May 4, 2007, 09:51 AM
I use #9 cleaner, both for powder and copper. I use Remington gun oil and lead-away cloth to clean the front of the cylinder of the revolver. Use it only on the Saltiness revolver because it will remove Blue.

I found that brass tools are better than the Aluminum or plastic so save some money and buy them first.

I start with a brass brush, then finish with a plastic bristle brush on all dirty surfaces. I use a brass "push through" tool first on the barrel soaked with cleaner, repeat until clean then dry with a final patch. I do the same for inside the clyinders. Some people push a final patch through the barrel with a VERY LIGHT covering of oil. If you do push another clean dry patch through after the oil to remove any excess. In the end I put a light covering of oil on everything, and I mean very light and then wipe clean with a soft cloth.

That's what I usually do. It's not the best way or the worse way, just the way I do it. I'm sure you will get many answers. Take them all and find the best way you think will work for you.

Also, look at this site, it might help:

May 4, 2007, 10:34 AM
ArchAngel described my general cleaning technique as well.

For occasional thorough cleanings on my S&W's I loosen the front screw (with ONLY the proper Brownell's screwdriver) and remove the cylinder and crane. Then I can clean the ejector rod and housing with some No. 9 and an old t-shirt rag. Also I occasionally use BLUE Scotchbrite pads to remove stubborn deposits on the cylinder face and around the forcing cone ONLY on stainless steel revolvers. The bores get a dose of Hoppe's Copper Eliminator occasionally if there's still copper the No. 9 is having trouble getting to. For leading, I take an older brass bore brush and wrap some filaments from a chore boy steel scouring pad around it and run through 4-5 times slowly followed by a plain brass brush then a few patches.

A caution though for guns with a finish of any sort - Airweight frames especially. Use nothing abrasive on these finished areas because many have a clear coat of one type or another which if you remove, will leave permanent marks.

Once a year, I take off the sideplate (again with ONLY the proper screwdrivers) and spray the lockwork with CLP Break Free then blow it out with compressed air - usually repeat this several times with a clean paper towel under the gun and stop when no more crud shows on the towel.Then I give a more thorough blowing with air to blow out most all of the break free leaving a film of it on the lockwork. Add just one drop of Mobil 1 to the sear area then close it all up tightening the screws back gently without overtightening.)

That all may be a bit much, but I'm just anal about certain things and clean guns is one of those.

May 4, 2007, 12:23 PM
1. Run patches sopping with Shooter's Choice through the bore and cylinders. Run a patch sopping with Shooter's Choice over the rest of the gun. Brush under the ejector star with a GI or discarded dental toothbrush if necessary. Go away and do something else for around 1/2 hour.

2. Come back and run a brass bore brush of the appropriate size at least ten times through the bore and chambers.

3. Run clean patches through the bore and chambers. If the patches are still coming out dirty after 3-4, go back to 1.

4. Wipe the solvent off of the rest of the gun with clean patches.

5. Run a mop or patch sopping with ClenzOil through the bore and chambers. Remove the excess ClenzOil with a dry patch.

6. Run a patch sopping with ClenzOil over the rest of the gun, including the ejector rod, on either side of the crane. Put a drop of ClenzOil in the front of the crane at the frame. Remove any excess with a dry patch.

For extended storage, a thin film of Shooter's Choice red grease applied all over works very well.

Don Lu
May 5, 2007, 07:49 AM
for blued guns Breakfree CLP is a good product, Its a 3 in one product and saves a little time and still works great.

May 5, 2007, 09:01 AM
Good post. Everything that AACD and everyone else posted. May I add what I do when pushing a brush, mop or swab is I keep the grip inverted or upside down with muzzle running downhill. Keeps the gunk I push through from running into places I can't get to without disassembling especially semi pistolas, shotguns and bolt actions. Nothing like sitting at the table after a good day of shooting with the buds watching tv and soaking in some suds, telling stories while cleaning your guns. :)

May 5, 2007, 09:08 AM
What's "lead away cloth".....unfamilair to me. Thanks.

Vern Humphrey
May 5, 2007, 11:20 AM
I like Ed's Red and a wooden cleaning rod. A good spray with brake clearer and a thorough draining period followed by a drop or two of Ed's Red does good things for the lockwork.

Don Lu
May 5, 2007, 11:29 AM,300,0xffffff&cvt=jpg

May 5, 2007, 07:24 PM
What's "lead away cloth".....unfamilair to me. Thanks.

As pictured above and it comes in 1" patches as well.
Great for removing rings on cylinder face and forcing cone on stainless steel guns only. Do not use on blued guns. I've found it's the only thing that works on those areas.

May 5, 2007, 07:26 PM
I wasn't familiar with that, but will look into for cleaning my S&W Model 25 in .45 Colt.

May 6, 2007, 05:50 PM
whats the best place online to order stuff from? I'm trying to find a one stop shop... I'm looking to pick up some cleaning supplies, oil, brushes, etc. as well as a holster and possibly some grips

May 6, 2007, 07:24 PM
Sorry but I don't usually buy my cleaning supplies online. (that's about the only think I don't buy online) I usually buy at Dick's Sporting Goods, Gander Mountain, Cabela's, WalMart, K Mart or where ever the supplies are on sale.

May 6, 2007, 09:34 PM

tasco 74
May 6, 2007, 09:50 PM
lots of good info here.. when i clean my smith i always take the screw out that keeps the crane in and remove the cylinder so that all isn't hangin out there and it's easier to clean... i use the aluminum rod with the loop in it that came with my model 27....... the one thing i would add is to be sure to keep your cleaning rod off the muzzle crown as it has alot to do with accuracy.......... also use the proper screw driver bits to remove gun screws as to not bugger up the slots.......... always be sure to wipe the whole thing down with rem oil to prevent rusting......

May 6, 2007, 09:58 PM
I've dropped the No. 9 and nastier nitro cleaners almost completely. I've gone over to Mpro style cleaning spray and CLP for all but really nasty bores. They don't bother my skin and don't make me choke for air while using them. And they seem to get the job done just fine. CLP in particular is a fantastic product. I don't even use regular oil anymore.

May 6, 2007, 10:25 PM
Is CLP that much better than Hoppe's #9? If so I'll have to give it a try... Does it take the place of Hoppe's Copper Solvent too?

May 6, 2007, 11:48 PM
CLP Break Free is the best cleaner I have used on my revolver. I remove the cylinder and using a small narrow plastic cup I soak the cylinder down and leave it for a few hours. It works wonderfully. I doubt it actually happens but the metal feels like it absorbs the CLP, leaves it feeling smooth and soft to the touch.

I use Smith and Wesson foaming Bore and Action Cleaner on everything else.
About every third cleaning I run a bore brush down the barrel.

Rem Oil is my lubricant of choice of auto's. use it sparingly and then wipe down before assembly. It leaves a film that makes parts slide well.

May 11, 2007, 08:52 PM
Revolver cleaning 101 (with photos!):

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