Proper Cleaning


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Picknlittle
May 4, 2007, 09:11 PM
Okay. You've been to the range for a couple hours or you come in from a weekend hunt. To what extent to you clean your rifle.

Is there such a thing a normal after use and a more intricate deep cleaning at a given period?

I typically use copper solvent and brush, then swab out with dry patches. Then run a lubed patch thru the barrel and wipe out the reciever and wipe down the bolt. Is this enough or is there something important I'm overlooking?

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never_retreat
May 4, 2007, 09:46 PM
Clean them when they stop working or when your hand gets dirty picking it up:D

hexidismal
May 4, 2007, 10:16 PM
Although I am a total nut in some ways when it comes to cleaning, I don't think you need many products to do it properly. I always clean my guns thoroughly after any firing (and even occasionaly when they haven't fired, which is what might be a bit of overkill). All I use though is your basic good old Hoppe's #9 and a good lubricant/protectant. I highly recommend fp-10 for that.

Lupinus
May 4, 2007, 10:19 PM
more gns have been damaged by over cleaning then under cleaning. Heck, my marlin 22 does better when it hasn't been cleaned, takes at least 200 rounds for it to shoot really good agian lol. The cinterfires get a wet patch or two down them until they come out respectably clean. The only time a brush goes down my guns is if I know there is some really tough crud down there or fouling.

Elza
May 4, 2007, 10:34 PM
hexidismal:

+1 You just descried me as well.

obxned
May 4, 2007, 10:39 PM
I clean the barrel (no wire brush) and action, then lightly oil to prevent rust. Disassembly and detail cleaning is about a once a year affair on rifles.

thebaldguy
May 4, 2007, 11:24 PM
I think it's a good idea to clean and lube firearms after each use. I think most cleaning damage is in the barrel; it comes from serious overuse of cleaning rods and wire brushes. I use a patch with solvent, then a wet brush for a few strokes, and finally dry patches. A clean patch with a few drops of oil for protection when done.

esmith
May 4, 2007, 11:29 PM
I hear its bad for the gun if you run your brush down the muzzle end of the rifle. Is this true? If it is, why?

All i do is run the brush through once and use my bore mop a couple of times with some patches until its fairly clean. After cleaning the bolt and breach i oil everything down a bit then do the action a few times to spread it evenly.

CliffH
May 5, 2007, 12:08 AM
I hear its bad for the gun if you run your brush down the muzzle end of the rifle. Is this true? If it is, why?

The way I understand it is: When cleaning from the muzzle end it is too easy to allow the rod to rub against the end of the muzzle, thereby damaging the crown. Messing up the crown messes up the grouping.

I'll run a copper brush with Hoppe's on it followed by a couple Hoppe's coated patches, then clean/dry patches until they come out clean. Follow that with a lightly oiled patch, clean the bolt face, then lightly oil the bolt & all exterior metal. I do that at the end of each day's shooting.

Elza
May 5, 2007, 02:08 AM
CliffH: The way I understand it is: When cleaning from the muzzle end it is too easy to allow the rod to rub against the end of the muzzle, thereby damaging the crown. Messing up the crown messes up the grouping.That is what I've always been told. I've seen military rifles with an adapter that attached to the muzzle to keep the rod away from the barrel. Is this a carry-over from the days of steel cleaning rods? I wouldn't think that aluminum or brass rods would damage a steel barrel.

Picknlittle
May 5, 2007, 09:47 AM
This has been very helpful. I was afraid I was under cleaning. It seems I might do well to hold back the brush a bit more.

Thanks all,

esmith
May 5, 2007, 06:17 PM
Well i probably ran the rod through the muzzle at least 10 times on my .22. Which to me, doesn't sound good. Is my gun damaged?

Liberty1776
May 5, 2007, 07:59 PM
I am new to your society...your words frighten and confuse me...what is this "kleeynyng" ritual of which you speak??? :evil:

RNB65
May 5, 2007, 08:17 PM
Here's the lowdown on gun cleaning --

If you watch a hundred different people clean guns you're going to see a hundred different methods on how to do it. Some are going to be meticulous and spend an hour per gun and some are going to be done in 10 minutes. Some are going to scrub the barrel until in it is shiny clean and patches come out looking brand new and some are going to just push thru a patch or two soaked with solvent and be done with it (and some aren't going to clean the barrel at all because noncorrosive ammo doesn't do any harm to the barrel). Some are going to use B-F CLP for everything and some are going to use a whole handful of products (and they're all going to be different -- Outers, Shooter's Choice, Hoppes, Remington, Kleen Bore, Birchwood Casey, Break Free, Gun Slick, G96, WD40, etc., etc.,).

In the end, as long as the action is reasonably cleaned and lubed, all the guns are going to work well regardless of how much time and effort went into cleaning them. As long as the bolt will move, the slide will slide, and the cylinder will rotate, the gun doesn't care how clean the rest of it is.

Molon Labe
May 5, 2007, 08:43 PM
Here are some things I've learned over the years on the subject of cleaning the bore:

1. Use brushes with brass (not steel) cores.
2. A dirty bore has copper and carbon in it. You should attack them separately.
3. It is more difficult to remove carbon than copper. This is because carbon cannot be dissolved.
4. Most "carbon solvents" do not do a good job of removing carbon from the bore.
5. The best carbon remover is a product called Carbon Killer (http://www.slip2000.com/carbonkiller.html). It is a surfactant.
6. When using Carbon Killer, let it soak in the barrel for ten minutes, scrub bore with a bronze brush, wipe bore with patches, and then repeat.
7. The best copper removers contain ammonia.

Molon Labe
May 5, 2007, 08:50 PM
I think most cleaning damage is in the barrel; it comes from serious overuse of cleaning rods and wire brushes.

A bronze-bristled brush will not hurt your barrel. As for the cleaning rod, you should only use a one-piece coated (or graphite) rod.

bogie
May 6, 2007, 12:42 AM
It's not "overcleaning."

It's "incompetent cleaning."

DO NOT use those aluminum rods that they sell at wal-mart. They'll eat a bore faster than you can say "What was Bogie blathering about this time?"

Do not use stainless brushes if you care about a barrel.

Use a bore guide.

Ready2Defend
May 6, 2007, 01:05 AM
I use gun scrubber spray on the action, then brush and patches through the barrel. I recently got a good light to look down the barrels with. Looks the same before/after brushing so with the above comments I am going to brush less.

Any comments on the gun scrubber spray?

armedandsafe
May 6, 2007, 12:50 PM
Is this a carry-over from the days of steel cleaning rods? I wouldn't think that aluminum or brass rods would damage a steel barrel.

Take a look at the ingrediant label on many sand papers and grinding wheels. You will find "aluminum oxide" listed. Then take a look at what happens to the surface of any untreated/coated piece of aluminum. You will find that the surface of a piece of aluminum will oxidize almost instantly. Therefore... :eek:

Pops

Rustynuts
May 6, 2007, 02:55 PM
No one uses a boresnake? Self centering and no need for a road to scratch the bore. Has built-in brass "brushes"

Molon Labe
May 6, 2007, 03:37 PM
No one uses a boresnake? Self centering and no need for a road to scratch the bore. Has built-in brass "brushes"

I heard a lot of good things about bore snakes. So a couple years ago I bought one. It's the most worthless thing I've ever purchased.

CliffH
May 6, 2007, 03:51 PM
I'ved got & used a bore snake. I don't depend on it for making the barrel "clean", instead I'll run it through the barrel a couple of times during a long range session - maybe every 50 to 60 rounds. Probably don't need to, but it doesn't hurt anything that I can tell. And the bore snake'll come in handy if I ever get stuck in the field for a while, it's a lot easier to pack than a full cleaning kit.

Molon Labe
May 6, 2007, 04:05 PM
And the bore snake'll come in handy if I ever get stuck in the field for a while, it's a lot easier to pack than a full cleaning kit.I suppose a bore snake might come in handy as a field-expedient tool. Other than that, I consider them worthless.

RNB65
May 7, 2007, 12:15 AM
I own Boresnakes in all the common calibers, but I never use them. When I clean guns, I concentrate on cleaning the action not the barrel. Also, I found it is easier to just use a cleaning rod rather than trying to feed a long string down the barrel.

esmith
May 7, 2007, 12:20 AM
well what else do you people decide is important for cleaning guns with. It sounds like a 1 piece rod with a bore guide would do fine.

gezzer
May 7, 2007, 11:49 PM
Any comments on the gun scrubber spray?

Just buy Brake Cleaner Spray same stuff 1/3 the price.

Geronimo45
May 7, 2007, 11:54 PM
Just toss it in a vat of boiling cosmoline and it'll be fine.

heypete
May 8, 2007, 02:13 AM
As others have said, everyone has their different method of cleaning. M1 Garands require grease, most guns don't. Some like being shot dirty, others need to be immaculately clean to work.

Here's my basic cleaning routine:
1. Place a few drops (no more than 5-8) of Break-Free CLP on the pre-brush area of the properly sized boresnake. Run boresnake through barrel from breech to muzzle twice.
2. Field strip the gun, wipe all parts with a patch soaked in CLP to remove carbon and other residue. Use nylon or bronze "toothbrush" as necessary. Wipe clean. Wipe down again with CLP soaked patch, then wipe with a dry patch until only a very thin film remains to protect against corrosion.
3. Detail-clean various high-wear or important parts with a q-tip and CLP (such as the track for the cam pin and bolt in an AR bolt carrier).
4. Put a small amount of CLP on "shiny" metal and other parts that wear (like pistol slide grooves). No more than a drop for the whole pistol groove, less on smaller parts.
5. Reassemble gun and function check.

I've not had any problems with any of the guns I shoot with this basic routine. When I don't have a boresnake in the caliber I'm using (not really an issue anymore), I will use a steel rod with a bronze brush and patch holder. For heavy fouling, I'll run the bronze brush down-and-back through the barrel for every 10 rounds fired that day, then alternate wet/dry patches until clean. Finish with a patch wetted with CLP, then a dry one to remove excess oil.

I'll detail-strip guns yearly or so, and clean out all the internal bits (trigger assemblies, interior of bolt/slides, firing pins and channels, etc.).

Works well for me, takes no more than 15-20 minutes per gun, and is very easy.

Red Dragon
May 8, 2007, 02:40 AM
I tend to be pretty anal when it comes to cleaning my guns but the level all depends on how many rounds I've put down range for the day.

peterotte
May 8, 2007, 02:58 PM
The main purpose of cleaning a gun is to fondle it:D

I used to oil down the outside and run a bristle brush dipped in Hoppe's #9 thru the bore and that was that. Linseed oil rubbed on the stock was also good. To prep for shooting, I would repeat the Hoppe's thing then wipe the bore dry with several patches. It worked for me - the barrel is now 25 years old and still mint. (That was in a hot, humid climate and I had a bin of silica gel in the safe).

On the other hand, I never cleaned my 44 mag single action at all - just rubbed oil on the outside. I was using lubed cast bullets.

Pete

mpmarty
May 8, 2007, 03:45 PM
Hoppes #9 on a bronze brush wrapped in the proper size patch to keep it moist.
Ten full strokes all the way out the muzzle and back to breech. Remove patch and spray brush with brake cleaner, shake off and cover brush with clean patch and saturate with Hoppes #9 and push through bore a couple times. Let it sit for fifteen minutes while you disassemble bolt assy and clean with brake cleaner.
lube with miltech 1 grease if it slides, oil if it rotates, put bolt back together. Fit a tight fitting patch on a clean jag and push through bore. If it is clean coat with light application of miltech 1 oil wipe down exterior with same oil lightly and you're done. If patch comes out blue or black you have more cleaning in your future. If Hoppes #9 won't cut it easily I use Sweets 7.62 or Butches bore shine and follow their directions.

akodo
May 8, 2007, 04:03 PM
I see a ton of products in aresol cans in the gun cleaning section, none are specifically labeled CLP,

so what are those 'gun scrubber' sprays like? any good at all?

30 cal slob
May 8, 2007, 04:34 PM
not sure if this was mentioned, but i do more than just wipe down the bolt.

1) use a q-tip dampened with solvent to clean the bolt face.

2) use a pipe cleaner to clean around the extractor

3) remove the firing pin (careful, it's likely under spring tension). clean firing pin, and use pipe cleaner to clean inside the bolt.

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