Duracoat Pics


May 8, 2007, 09:35 PM
Here are my Colts with Duracoat on the frames (Coyote Brown on the 9mm and Stainless on the Delta Elite). My friend Craig at sweleg@worldnet.att.net did them; he does all the Duracoat work for many of the local gun shops:



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May 8, 2007, 09:40 PM
Nice. More and more pictures of duracoated guns keep showing up here on THR lately, and it continues to make the idea more appealing to me.

May 8, 2007, 09:43 PM
Where do you live!!!

May 8, 2007, 09:43 PM
I had the front straps checkered, so I had to have the frames refinished. This gave me an excuse to change the color.

My crappy Kodak does not even begin to do the finishes justice.

I live in Las Vegas Nevada.

May 8, 2007, 10:56 PM
I absolutely love DuraCoat!

A friend recently said he was going to Krylon an AR-15 reciever he had. I told him to loan it to me and I would DuraCoat it for him.

His color choice was OD Green. I think it came out pretty good. Without further ado, onto the pics!

Here is the reciever just after I finished degreasing it. You can actually see some of the degreasing liquid in the buffer tube threads.


And here she is with her new color and the selector markings picked out in grease pencil. The flash actually makes the finish look kind of mottled, it isn't. DuraCoat is an awesome product, photos hardly do it justice.


From another angle. The guy I did this for was really pleased. I was actually kind of sad to return it to him. It looked so nice sitting on my bench. :(


May 8, 2007, 10:56 PM
OMG that is beautifull!

The Amigo
May 8, 2007, 11:29 PM
Did you had to sand blast? I'm looking to do this on a gun that the bluing is starting to wear. Will the duracoat stick to the old bluing or does it need to be removed? By the way that looks very nice.

May 8, 2007, 11:43 PM
I'm probably going to get my 10/22 duracoated. I discovered after buying it that I didn't like the Stainless look that much. It would look better, and match accessories better, in black.

May 8, 2007, 11:48 PM
how does duracoat work? what steps do i have to take im going to be doing a pistol soon here

May 9, 2007, 12:01 AM
I know he disassembled the small parts from the frames, degreased/sandblasted the frames, shot the frames with the color Duracoat, and finally shot the frames with clear. I don't know how much time he allowed between steps. I have seen some of his camo rifle/Glock jobs and restoration work for vintage rusted guns, and compared to those jobs, the work on my frames was pretty simple.

The frames look so good I am thinking of having the slides done (in black).

May 9, 2007, 12:04 AM
does it come in a spray can or????

May 9, 2007, 11:16 AM
I have no idea how the finish is applied, just what Craig told me. I doubt that it comes in a spray can, but anything is possible.

Outlaw Man
May 9, 2007, 11:51 AM
Man, those turned out great! I've been really impressed with how good Duracoat can look when it's done properly.

May 9, 2007, 11:58 AM
does it come in a spray can or????

It needs to be airbrushed. Check out this site: duracoat (http://www.duracoat-firearm-finishes.com/)

May 9, 2007, 01:13 PM
selector markings picked out in grease pencil.

Exposure could you elaborate?

May 9, 2007, 02:44 PM
I never have much luck with duracoat. I tried on two project guns (Keltec PM-11 and Sistema 1911) and the coating easily comes off the high wear areas like the slide ends, trigger guard etc. I did remove all the bluing, degreased, roughed-up the surface, and applied several coats. I understand it works better on Parkerized surfaces.
With those whom had success with duracoat...what did you do to prepare the surface?

May 9, 2007, 04:05 PM
Exposure could you elaborate?
He wrote over the "Safe" and "Semi" markings with a red and a white grease pencil to make them stand out.

May 9, 2007, 04:39 PM
Those are some nice coating jobs there :)

May 9, 2007, 04:43 PM
does it come in a spray can or????

I'm going to step out of my lane a bit, but if memory serves Duracoat is just repackaged Sherwin Williams Polane.

Regardless, there are some folks out there using it to make some very attractive firearms.

May 9, 2007, 04:46 PM
Thx 1k, that makes more sense, I thought he was masking and then filling in after or something.

There's also Armacoat, supposed to be very hard and wear very well.

May 9, 2007, 05:35 PM
I'm going to step out of my lane a bit, but if memory serves Duracoat is just repackaged Sherwin Williams Polane.
As the kids say, O RLY?

Time to hit up the account rep for a sample. Need to test it for a 'job,' honest.

May 9, 2007, 05:37 PM
Another spray and bake product to look at is Gun Kote. I've heard very good reviews about that one.

May 9, 2007, 05:41 PM
DuraBake comes in an Aerosol Can but you need to let the paint set and then as the name would imply Bake it in a 350 degree oven, for 15 or 20 Min. or 3 hrs in a 180 degree oven.
It is also available from Duracoat.

May 9, 2007, 06:26 PM
Here's some information about Duracoat from a company called LMT refinishing:

DuraCoat is a hard polymer thats self lubricating to a certain extent; extremely hard, oil, solvent, and wear resistant. It resists 100 inch pounds of direct impact and 80 inch pounds of reverse impact. Its pencil hardness runs H to 2H. DuraCoat has passed a 300 hr salt spray test, which far exceeds military requirements for firearms finishes. Major manufacturers such as DSA utilize DuraCoat finishes on their rifles. DuraCoat has proven to hold up extremely well under field conditions. Even on parts such as FAL bolts, which are subject to significant abrasion as the bolt cycles, DuraCoat has held up well and proven to be extremely durable. DuraCoat will dry to the touch in 20 min and can be used after curing 6 - 8 hrs. How ever it will continue to cure for 4 to 6 weeks after application. DuraCoat is not a flash cure application which will become brittle after curing resulting in chipping and flaking. DuraCoat cures slowly so it remains flexible after it cures which contributes to its excellent abrasion and wear resistance. We like to say DuraCoat doesn't wear out, it wears in. DuraCoat can be applied over just about any surface including, metal, plastic, or wood as long as the surface is properly prepared. We have had great success using it on forearm rail covers such as the textured Magpul covers. DuraCoat is available in 55 stock colors and 7 new electric colors. With 3 Mirageflage camo patterns , 2 advanced camo patterns and 11 standard camo patterns available, a color / pattern is available for any terrain.

May 9, 2007, 06:48 PM
http://img2.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/th.8b2d5d5750.jpg (http://img2.freeimagehosting.net/image.php?8b2d5d5750.jpg)

I did the DuraCoat on a very abused 10/22. Straightened the bent barrel with a rubber hammer, replaced the broken stock with a Ram-Line, made a home-made peep sight, preped and shot on the Dura-Coat, and it will shoot good enough for squirrel hunting in TN.


May 9, 2007, 06:55 PM
I do my own..I use a Detail gun. This is not a Bake on finish..it is a 2 part epoxy type paint...Sandblasting is not required.


May 9, 2007, 08:16 PM
If you prep and clean properly Duracoat goes on very very easily with an airbrush-One day I'll take some pics of the ones I did and post it.

May 9, 2007, 10:14 PM
Craig does sanblast before applying the Duracoat. Whether or not other people do that is obviously their choice.

May 9, 2007, 10:42 PM
I had this done to my girl friend's Beretta for Xmas. It definitely gets looks at the range.

May 10, 2007, 01:34 AM
CDignition, I really like that RIA 1911. The white and black is stunning. I think I may have to stealy your idea for the CZ 75B project gun I just picked up. Great looking pistol.

June 1, 2007, 06:44 PM
My first attempt at refinishing and duracoat:

June 1, 2007, 09:48 PM
awesome job on the AR SSR.

June 1, 2007, 09:49 PM
BTW, SDignitions Rock Island Arms 1911 looks sharp too. im considering getting a rock island arms.

June 1, 2007, 10:25 PM

Sorry to shout there, but that important step was skipped when I had my Vektor SP2 done. The results looked beautiful until they started chipping away like nail polish on a five-cent hooker. :scrutiny: :eek:

To this day, I'm still really apprehensive about ever getting it done again. :uhoh:

Il Duca
June 1, 2007, 11:10 PM

Not only that, but it's a good idea to wear gloves when you touch it after that. The oil from your hands will affect it too.

Here's an AK I did, not the best pic though:


June 1, 2007, 11:23 PM
And as soon as my friend completes some barrel modifications on my Savage 24 I will also have a DuraCoat prodject to do. So a couple questions for those do-it-yourself'rs ?

What degreaser are you using ? The DuraCoat CD mentions a couple but I was thinking acetone would meet the requirement .

DuraCoat instructional CD is pretty vaque when discussing solvents for both degreasing and for use as a thinner (reducer) yet in the CD they mention if you mess it up you can use lacqer thinner to remove the fresh finish - can you use a standard lacqer thinner on DuraCoat ?

June 2, 2007, 09:25 AM
I used the TruStrip from Lauer Custom Weaponry, also where I ordered the Duracoat. I used about 3 large cans on my AR.

June 2, 2007, 10:43 AM
I use mold cleaner..we use it for cleaning tools(Plastic injection molds) at work. you can use Acetone, or paint thinner also. ONLY use Duracoat reducer for thinning the paint though.

June 2, 2007, 10:47 AM
here is a CZ I did...first attempt with Duracoat

June 2, 2007, 02:32 PM
Thanks SSR , but the cost of $16.50 per 16oz can is what I am trying to avoid.

CDignition , I'm unclear as to what degreasing agent is in mold cleaner, but I also suspect as I indicated earlier that acetone should work.

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