May 9, 2007, 02:00 PM
Home Depo? Can't find it online.
Just got a sonic cleaner, and need a solvent/cleaner for it.

Where can I get 2 gallons of it for a decent price?

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May 9, 2007, 02:03 PM
I would think any paint store would have it. I know painters use it for oil base paint clean up.

Big Calhoun
May 9, 2007, 02:05 PM
Try a store that only sells paint -- household paint.

May 9, 2007, 02:09 PM
I buy it at Wal-Mart in the paint section.

May 9, 2007, 02:11 PM
Home Depot doesn't list a lot of items they sell online. They do sell it though. Just about any hardware or paint store will stock it. It should be located near the paint/stain area. It goes for around $5.99/quart here or so. I haven't seen it in bigger containers at the big box stores. You're better off going to a mom & pop store or a painter's supply store if you need a larger amount.

May 9, 2007, 02:13 PM
Pretty much any place that sells paint. Don't just request "paint thinner" or "paint remover" because there are a bunch of different solvents out there. Do NOT get paint stripper: that stuff is seriously nasty and gave me some mild chemical burns, along with melting the plastic items I used it on.

Home Depot, Wal-Mart, Lowe's, Mennard's, Coast-to-Coast, Do It Best, Ace Hardware, True Value... they should all have it.

May 9, 2007, 02:55 PM
Is it safe on polymer frames, aka Glock ?

May 9, 2007, 03:03 PM
I think ordinary paint thinner is cheaper, and that's what I've used for years in ultrasonic cleaners.
It's also a little easier on the fumes and odor and doesn't affect MOST plastics.
Remember, any solvent that will attack something, attacks it faster in the warm ultrasonic solution, so I don't run plastics for really long times.
A Glock or any other polymer gun frame is made of plastics that most solvents won't attack.
I buy cheap thinner at Wal-mart.

Even though mineral spirits and thinner are not super flammable, you still have to be careful around the cleaner.
One trick is to put an inch of tap water in the cleaner and stand small glass, plastic, or metal containers in the water.
Fill the containers with solvents for small parts.
The water passes the ultrasonic waves through the containers and into the solvent.
If you're careful, you can use small amounts of Acetone or lacquer thinner.
Lacquer thinner is an excellent degreaser and brightens metals slightly, especially brass.

May 9, 2007, 03:08 PM
AFAIK, paint thinner and mineral spirits are the same thing....but mineral spirits is refined a little more, and stinks a lot less.

If your using it in doors, choose mineral spirits.

You can even get a finer "low odor" mineral spirits, which is often used by artists in a studio environment.

May 9, 2007, 03:08 PM
I bought a fairly giant jug of the stuff at Lowes, but Home Depot also sells it.

May 9, 2007, 03:25 PM
Does it lubricate as well???
Or do I still need to drop some gun oil on it after Mineral Spirits bath?

May 9, 2007, 03:28 PM
walmart is the cheapest by a LONG shot... $4.50 a gallon here.
it's in the paint section next to the stripper, bottom shelf. Comes in a transparent plastic jug with a brown label.

They also have paint thinner the cheapest I've seen it.

May 9, 2007, 03:37 PM
I'd try e-mailing Glock about the use of mineral spirits on their frames. I doubt it'd hurt, but it'd be a shame to ruin a firearm.

Do not use mineral spirits as a lubricant. When you use it, you'll see it's greasy/oily, but it's not slick and clingy the way RemOil or CLP are. Proper lubricants are cheap enough that it'd be silly not to use them.

Of course, keep mineral spirits away from open flames and use in a well ventilated area. I'd keep pregnant women and small children away from it too.

May 9, 2007, 04:40 PM
I second LOwes. I have bought it there myself. Also seen it at Wal-Mart too.

May 9, 2007, 05:03 PM
Does it lubricate as well???
Or do I still need to drop some gun oil on it after Mineral Spirits bath?
No, it's a solvent, not a lubricant. It will strip oil off your gun. Definitely oil afterwards.

I get mine at Lowes, Ace, Walmart. Whichever is most convenient.

May 9, 2007, 05:46 PM
I buy mine at the paint department of Home Depot or Lowe's. K-mart, Wal-mart, etc., all have it. It's very common.

Mineral oil doesn't lubricate at all. It makes a great, safe solvent. I use it myself. It evaporates away, leaving dry metal. Oil after cleaning. I use an old gunsmith trick for lubricating. I spray oil (or dunk) all over the parts and let them set a while. Then I blow off the excess with an air compressor. You can use "canned air" if you don't have a compressor. Wipe off any excess and reassemble. You don't miss any areas that way, and you don't have any excess oil running around inside the gun either.

May 9, 2007, 06:47 PM
Can I clean magazines in the sonic cleaner as well?
Assembled or disassembled?

May 9, 2007, 06:50 PM
"Mineral oil " is NOT the same thing as mineral spirits (AKA paint thinner or Stoddard solvent).

Paint thinner, mineral spirits and Stoddard solvent are a witches brew of similar boiling point hydrocarbons.
They are all pretty far from pure anything.

May 9, 2007, 06:57 PM
+1 brickeye

Mineral oil is a laxative or with scent baby oil. ;)
Mineral spirits won't hurt polymer frames.

If you add in some more ingredients you'd have Ed's Red.

May 9, 2007, 09:29 PM

May 9, 2007, 10:18 PM
This sounds dumb, but I like to buy my mineral spirits in a plastic container (half gallon, I believe). If I buy in cans, I usually dump it into an empty plastic one that previously had mineral spirits in it. Cans rust and I hate those child proof caps. Any Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes, Kmart, paint store, or hardware store will have what you seek for the most part.

May 10, 2007, 12:33 AM
Regardless of the fact that it probably won't hurt--don't use it near rubber parts, grips, polymer frames, plastics you care about, etc.

It really works as a pre-soak agent for removing old, old grime and cosmo.
It doesn't completely remove all oils like white gas does.

Buy at Blaines Farm & Fleet (good prices and MANY solvents to choose from--employees are usually nice and solid citizens who have knowledge about such matters).

Also (as stated) don't ***K around with lacquer thinner!!!! It is bad news! And I'm not suggesting white gas as a tank solvent--it is too volitile also.

After, a nice boiling h20 rinse is a great idea before oiling up.

May 10, 2007, 11:50 AM
I like a pretty strong solution of TriSodium Phospate (TSP) from H'depot or Lowe's in a sonic cleaner better than Mineral Spirits. Both cut oily crud but TSP is non-flammable and leaves most surfaces as clean as mineral spirits. TSP is harmless to metals and plastics but can remove oil paints quite well! As a safety issue, since TSP is a caustic and will also remove skin oils, I use goggles when using it and have a small spray bottle of vinegar - a mild acid - handy to neutralize any TSP I spill on my skin. (Use the goggles with M.S. too.)

Both solvents do require oiling afterwards because there will be NO oil left on the metal.

Perhaps the best light "gun" oil at any price is Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). It has a very low evaporation rate, provides good lubrication, leaves no detectable gumming (as many/most oils do) and is highly resistant to water penetration to prevent rusting. I use it on everything; guns, fishing reels, small electric motors and even coat my table saw's cast iron top with it! It's really cheap and easy to get from the auto sections of the various "marts".

May 10, 2007, 11:57 AM
I'm thinking the reason you didn't find it online is because shipping it is not an option. Virtually anywhere that sells paint will have it.

May 10, 2007, 02:20 PM

Ultrasonic cleaners work quite well on magazines too, with the caution that you do have to make sure any plastic followers or floor plates aren't attacked by your cleaning solution.

Ultrasonics work on just about anything you can fit into the tank: Gun parts, watch bands, your wife's jewelery, auto parts, paint brushes, air brushes, and on and on.

After cleaning with MOST solvents, you do have to do a GOOD job of re-lubricating.
Ultrasonics will strip ALL lubricant, including tiny hidden areas, holes, and crevices no ordinary cleaning will reach.

When the parts come out of the cleaner, they'll be surgically clean and TOTALLY stripped of lube.
After you dry the parts, you MUST be careful to get lubricant everywhere, to prevent rust and to lubricate.

May 11, 2007, 02:51 PM
These days most "paint thinners" have an acetone/keytone base as in "lacquer thinner". Mineral spirits is something different and normally will not affect "hard" plastics. That said, it is always best to test a small out-of-sight/non-critical spot before using any solvent on any plasic.

Darth Muffin
May 12, 2007, 01:50 AM
You might consider parts washing fluid from the automotive store. I got mine at Napa, but if you can find a local petrolium dealer like one that sells oil to diesel shops, you might find it cheaper. I use it in an automotive parts washer I got at harbor freight. It's a good solvent that's safe for plastics, low odor, low flammability, and the jug says not bad on your hands (I still use gloves though).

It's expensive though, like $20 a gallon, but that will last a very long time. Most of the crud will settle to the bottom given time, then you're back to new fluid again.

May 12, 2007, 02:11 AM
The ONLY time I've ever seen a Glock that was too "dry" to operate properly was at a rental range that used an ultrasonic cleaner. The slide was extremely stiff to rack and it was jamming occasionally. A strategically placed drop of oil fixed it.

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