I bought a Stack-On 8 gun RSC today.


Evil Monkey
May 12, 2007, 11:01 PM
Sure it's not a "safe", but I didn't feel comfortable leaving my AK in the closet.

It's not big at all but for $80, I'm not complaining. I mainly bought it to store Long Guns. I have a fairly large box chest that can be locked and I use it to store important docs, ammo, gear, mags, accessories, and future hand guns I will buy. I needed something cheap to contain long guns and since I only have one long gun right now, I thought it wouldn't be a bad idea.

Right now it's just sitting in my room unbolted to the floor or wall, just sitting there. Any ideas on how to make it heavier? I'd rather keep it in my room but I can't bolt in down or my parents will probably kick my ass. I would put it in the basement for the best security possible in my house but it would be a hassle going up and down seeing how the basement is unfinished and boring.:D ........and I often like to admire my gun. Hehehe.

Anyway, later on in life when I have a bunch of long guns, especially guns like MG3, PKM, RPD,(:evil: ), I will have to get a "proper" safe. But the ones I saw at Dunhams going for $400-700 kept me thinking about the guns I can buy with that money.:D

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May 12, 2007, 11:15 PM
Put your ammo and other valuable tems in the safe to add weight. I know some people have added bricks/blocks to make it heavier. Tell your parents things will be much more secure if you can just drill a few holes to anchor it.

May 12, 2007, 11:46 PM
Evil - I'll PM you with the finished results of what I've done with the same safe to make it safer. It's a bit of wood-work, but it's worth it. It's still in the works, so it'll take a little while for me to get a photo out.

Jorg Nysgerrig
May 13, 2007, 12:00 AM
MG3, eh? Anyway, will it fit in your closet? If so, try sticking it in there, not only is it slightly less likely to be found, your parents probably won't mind you bolting it down in there.

Evil Monkey
May 13, 2007, 12:21 AM
Jorg, probably many, many years until I get one.

The safe will not fit in my closet. When the collapsing doors are open to my closet, you can look left and right and there is more room that you can barely walk into, but it's not wide enough to put in the safe with the back against the wall. The only way I can put it in is if I put it side ways. But that means I would have trouble opening the safe door to access firearms.

May 13, 2007, 12:25 AM
I've got the same gun cabinet. Not the best thing in the world, but the biggest one I could get into an upstairs bedroom. I still feel better about it being up there than a "real" safe out in the garage (my only real alternative).

You just need to get more firearms. I've got 6 longguns and 4 handguns in mine, and those weigh it down pretty well. I might just toss 25# bag of shot in the bottom of it as well.

Stack-on did recommend installing it in a closet as well, and maybe I'll think about doing that as well.

chris in va
May 13, 2007, 12:37 AM
Got one too. Works decently enough bolted to the wall.

May 13, 2007, 12:56 AM
That sounds like a good deal for $80. You can always upgrade later and keep it as an ammo locker.
As far as securing it, I don't thnk any amount of weight is going to secure an 8 gun safe. Try convincing your parents to allow you to throw a couple of bolts into the floor or put the biggest piece of steel or plywood you can into your closet and bolt the safe to that. It won't be stealproof but i'll make it a lot harder and more cumbersome.

May 13, 2007, 01:11 AM
For weight - again, this is some work, but some 3/4" plywood around it adds a fair amount of weight.

Right now basically what I'm working on for fun is a gun-locker disguised as a book-case. It consists of the Stack-On 8 gun locker and 6 "Sentinel" (really Stack-On rebranded for Walmart) pistol safes in a custom-built cabinet with a facade door and a bit of visual trickery (sometimes it pays to know a lot about magic and illusions and the optical principles behind many tricks :p ). So far the cabinet is done and I start sanding and painting tomorrow, and then will start working on the faux bookshelf door (facade). So far without the door it weighs A LOT! All that wood added up fast.

I have plans for an ammo-locker too that will also involve some visual trickery.

I'll PM photos when I'm done. So far it's only been 3 days of work (free-time - not the whole day). If done in one sitting I bet it would only take a day if you have the tools and wood available. You could easily just build a wood shell for the safe and you'd add a lot of weight with that.

Evil Monkey
May 13, 2007, 01:38 AM
Wow! Surprising turn of events.

About 10 minutes ago, I measured the width of the safe and it turned to be 21 inches. You know that open space in the closet I was talking about? It was almost 24 inches wide so I managed to fit the safe deep inside! Sweet!:D

But one more problem. The carpet in the closet is really puffy because it obviously doesn't get walked on. This means that the safe doesn't sit right and when I open the door, the safe starts to tilt forward!!! And it WILL fall if I don't hold it back. Now I'm going to have to secure the back to the inside wall of the closet. Either that or I'll put a wooden board under the safe.

B. Adams
May 13, 2007, 02:37 AM
I have the same RSC, and it works really well. I got mine on sale for $80 at Dunhams as well.

Even mine would fall over when the door was open, and I don't have especially puffy carpet. All it takes is a small screw in the wall to hold it up, but it's best to bolt it.

Just talk to your parents about bolting it down. It's much more secure that way, and the holes will be really easy to patch if or when you decide to remove it. There's no way to weigh it down enough to keep someone from stealing it if they want to, so just bolt it down like it's intended to be.

May 13, 2007, 09:28 AM

We gonna kill two problems with one solution here, so listen up.

Measure the floor of the closet, accurately. Buy enough plywood to put two layers on the floor, full coverage. The idea here is to secure the RSC to the plywood in the closet. This makes it very difficult to remove the RSC from the closet and keeps it from tipping over with the door open, capish?

Now then, there are a number of different ways to secure the RSC to the plywood. Does the RSC have bolt holes already drilled in the bottom? If so, things just became a little easier. Cut the plywood to just fit the floor area, glue the two layers together with PL200 construction cement. Doesn't take much to do the job, don't get carried away with the stuff & and keep it away from the edges. Set the RSC on the ply in the position it's gonna be in the closet & mark the holes on the ply. Drill the holes the proper diameter, just barely over the bolt size. Now, counter-sink the other side of the ply for the bolt heads & flat washer. A small dab of Elmer's wood glue will secure the bolts & washers to the ply, don't rush, let it dry. Place the ply in the closet with the bolt shanks sticking up. Place the RSC on the studs & secure with a washer & nut.

The reason you use Elmer's & not PL200 to secure the bolts is because Elmer's allows you to easily knock out the bolts & redrill if you made a mistake. With PL200, once it dries, whatever you glued had better be where you want it. If you get PL200 squirting out from between the ply layers, you will regret it. If it's on the carpet, your parents will make you deeply regret it.

This solution allows you to remove the entire affair from the closet with no damage except the carpet will have to be brushed to let the pile spring back up. That should be an easy sell to the parental units.

You owe me a beer.


May 13, 2007, 10:34 AM
I'm not sure, but it might be a couple years before Evil can make good on that beer... legally anyway;)

May 13, 2007, 11:05 AM
I bought a Sentry 14-gun safe from Lowe's yesterday. It has the same tipping problem, so I shimmed it with some plywood which tilts the safe back just far enough to keep it steady when the door's open.

Gaucho Gringo
May 13, 2007, 10:21 PM
The reason the safes are tipping on carpeted surfaces with the back to the wall is simple. When carpet is installed a piece of wood with lots of nails called tack strip is installed along the wall. This is about 1 " wide. When a heavy object is put on it, it does not compress like the carpet & carpet pad do. The solution is to have your safe or gun cabinet about 1 1\2 inches from the wall. Solves the problem.

May 13, 2007, 11:13 PM

The idea is not just to keep the Stack-On from tipping. The idea is to prevent it's removal from the closet and prevent it's tipping.

Put a piece of scrap carpet over the plywood & there's a very good chance a thief wouldn't spot the RSC back in the depths of the closet.


May 13, 2007, 11:24 PM
My Sentra is about four inches off the back wall. I think it's just that the door itself is as heavy as the rest of the safe.

Stopped by Cabela's today and for the first time ever they had the perfect small cube safe I want for handguns, electronic lock and all for the same price as the tall sentry.

May 13, 2007, 11:42 PM
Several (4-8+) 25lb bags of lead shot in bottom will also prevent the safe tipping over (in addition to adding weight to prevent a thief from tucking it under his arm and hauling it off). However shot runs around $30-35 per bag, so bolting it to the floor joists and wall studs is the cheapest and best (anti-theft) solution. If it didn't come with lag bolts, you can probably pick up 4-8 at the local hardware store for under $3.00. Bolt it into the joists and studs, DO NOT use plastic anchor things because then the only thing securing it is drywall and maybe plywood, if not just flor underlayment particle board.

May 14, 2007, 05:51 AM
I have the same cabinet. I bolted it to the wall in a closet. It's not a "safe", but it's better than nothing and gives me somewhere to put guns so they arent laying all over the place.

May 14, 2007, 12:31 PM
with sheet lead I had come across years ago when I thought I would start making bullets.......I have two of those safes. I bolted them together then to the wall. Too big now to just carry off. I put a keyed lock on the room door where they are located and it is always locked. Now a bad guy has to kick in the front door, kick in the room door, pry the safes off the wall then take them apart, all before the monitored alarm goes off in 30 seconds and the cops arrive......And, one of us is always home so you can expect a loud noise in your direction with a followup dose of severe pain, or none at all.......chris3

May 14, 2007, 03:10 PM
I have one of those also.

I had the "tipping" problem, I tilted the cabinet back so that it leans against the back wall and wedged a phone book under the bottom at the front. Works for now, I don't know if I want commit to bolting it in.

Ammo will help weigh it down, if that's what you're looking for. I wouldn't worry about it too much though, if somebody wanted in and had time they could get it open without too much trouble. It's not the sturdiest thing you can buy, but still far better than nothing (especially behind a locked door), as people have already said. At least the thief would probably have to make some considerable noise getting inside by force.

mons meg
May 14, 2007, 07:50 PM
Mine's in the closet as well, but I did use the pre-drilled holes and conveniently provided bolts to secure the safe to the wall studs. I plan on adding the pistol box on top eventually.

Same principle as most have stated, it's not a safe that can't be pried out with a crowbar...it's more for curious kids and the burglar-in-a-hurry.

May 15, 2007, 12:46 AM
I built a platform for my 8 gun. A piece of Plywood screwed into a base made of rows of 4 by 4's. I then bolted the cabnet to the base. Makes a nice stable base and adds some good weight.


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