[JP1954]

I recently acquired an old WW I military surplus rifle that has a very filthy bore.. I've used Hoppes 9 and countless patches.....I've brushed it.....I've used the foaming bore cleaner (2 or 3 times).....I even tried a patch soaked with brake cleaner.....After all the above, it is still dirty.I get alternating patches of either gray/black (powder residue) or blue/green (copper residue)...Has anybody else ever had this experience? If yes, did you ever finally get it clean? If yes, how'd ya do it?:confused:

[Southern Raider]

You might try JB Bore paste, which is a mild abrasive. The fellow that sold me my jar told me "it will even remove evil spirits"...

[dfariswheel]

I second JB Bore Paste.
It can be bought in many gun shops, or you can order it direct from Brownell's.

This is a super-fine, non-embedding abrasive originally used by benchrest shooters to deep clean a bore.
It won't harm the bore, but will clean it.

[nicholst55]

Check out the link: http://www.google.com/search?num=20&hl=en&safe=off&rlz=1T4ADBS_en___US205&q=electric+bore+cleaner

You can make a homemade version of the Outers Foul-Out unit very easily and inexpensively. If you're not handy, try sealing the bore with a cork or rubber plug; fill it with something like Shooter's Choice and let it soak for several hours. Drain it, and then hit it with JB Bore Cleaner. Hoppe's is not a very aggressive bore cleaner, and there are much better alternatives available today.

I have a M1903 Springfield that I wore out three brand new bore brushes on, using JB, before it finally came clean. Soaking the bore really helps in these instances.

[JP1954]

Thanks guys for the info........I should have probably come here first....might have saved a lot of time.....and patches.;)

I just read about the electronic bore cleaner....I think I will give that a try......I wonder if hooking it to car battery would kick it up a notch? :D

[Ifishsum]

I cleaned on my grandpa's old Krag for several days with the same results, even tried the "foul-out" rod and came to the conclusion that you'll never get it to where it looks clean. Further, the bore is pitted enough that using the bronze brush was leaving enough copper in the bore that my patches would come out blue again, so I thought it was still dirty. It is as clean as it gets, I'm afraid.

It still shoots surprisingly well so I've given up trying to get it squeaky clean.

[JP1954]

Well......I wouldn't recommend the car battery for the homemade electro cleaner.....I didn't use one but I used a 6 volt lantern battery. It boiled the solution and popped the cork out.:o.....Best to stick with the flashlight. I guess bigger isn't always better,,,,,,:D

[Sunray]

Stop up the muzzle, fill the bore with regular solvent and leave for an hour or so. Then dispose of the dirty solvent safely and run a patch through. Repeat the soaking if required. You need to give the solvent time to work. Mind you, some milsurp barrels, especially a 90 year old barrel, will still be black. Eons of corrosively primed ammo.
Brake cleaner is a degreaser. It does nothing for a dirty rifle barrel.

[JP1954]

I think I got all the powder and copper out. I think I still have lead though. With magnification and a bore light I see "lumpy" spots between the lands and there are tiny silver flakes in the bore. The patches now come out light gray. I couldn't find any shooters choice around here but I did buy Tetra Gun solvent and some JB bore cleaner.
The guy at the gun store told me he has had good results with Tetra for removing lead, copper, and plastic. I have the barrel soaking it up now. I plan on giving it a dose of JB next unless I'm surprised and the Tetra does the trick with one application..

[xdshooter1]

Are you sure it isn"t rust? If it is try this. You simply pluge the barrel on the chamber end with wood or a cork plug. Mix a solution of 10% Nitric Acid (that's 9 parts water and one part acid). Carefully pour the mix down the bore from the muzzel end until the bore is full. Allow ten minutes to pass. Remove the acid from the bore, remove the plug and flush with water to remove all traces of the acid. Follow this with one clean white patch if there is any rust on it repeat the process. A 10% nitric acid solution will not act fast, (the dilution slows the action). Rust is ferric oxide which is weaker than iron or steel in strength as it is an oxide. So the acid attacks the rust first. It will of course attack the iron or steel but at a later time. That"s why you only allow the ten minutes and is flush with water to remove ALL TRACES of the acid. (CAUTION: DO NOT ALLOW ANY OF THE ACID CONTACT WITH THE BLUEING ON THE BARREL IT WILL REMOVE IT VERY QUICKLY!!!!!!!!!!!)