M&p 340


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DAdams
June 12, 2007, 12:07 PM
Since there are sufficient numbers of S&W M&P 340s showing up now that the supply and prices are becoming more available and reasonable I thought there might be interest in a dedicated site.

This will assist others in their quest for the "ultimate snubbie", and cover the care and feeding of the beast.

Specifications:

Model: M&P340
Caliber: .357MAG/.38+P
Capacity: 5 Rounds
Barrel Length: 1.87"
Front Sight: XS SightsŪ 24/7 Tritium Night
Rear Sight: Integral U-Notch
Grip: Synthetic
Overall Length: 6.31"
Weight Empty: 13.3 oz.
Material: Scandium Alloy Frame/Stainless Steel Cylinder
Finish: Matte Black
Frame Size: Small - Centennial Style
Action: Double Action Only

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m22/dadams111/163072_large.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m22/dadams111/163073_large-1.jpg

With the Factory Supplied Crimson Trace 405s and including the S&W Logo.

Share your experiences:

Prices
Holsters/carry methods.
Range Reports.
Likes and Dislikes.

If you enjoyed reading about "M&p 340" here in TheHighRoad.org archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join TheHighRoad.org today for the full version!
DAdams
June 12, 2007, 12:12 PM
Here are some photos of my recent 340 acquisition.

I purchased it NIB with CT 405s. $779 included shipping.
Same dealer had it w/o the CTs for $599 including shipping.
At the time Bud's was at $603 plus shipping.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m22/dadams111/P5210023.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m22/dadams111/P5220027.jpg

Here it is with a set of Hogue Monogrips.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m22/dadams111/P5220031.jpg

In a DeSantis Nemesis Pocket Holster.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m22/dadams111/P5220029.jpg

In a Robert Mika Round cut.

20nickels
June 12, 2007, 12:59 PM
I noticed that instead of all lightweight materials they are now adding steel cylinders. How has this helped recoil management, Is this a welcome change?

Brassman
June 12, 2007, 03:04 PM
You probably know from the 642 Club that I have an M&P 340 laid away. I hope fiVe doesn't throw me out of the club for joining here. My wife will still have the 642 with her at all times, while in 90 days, I will be carrying the M&P. I found it very easy to pick up the M&P and shoot center mass at 50 ft. with the skills I have learned from practicing a high grip with the 642 for about 2 1/2 years. Not much difference in perceived recoil with this weapon between my heavy .357 loads and factory Remington .38 sp. FBI loads. I was very pleased with my first outing with it yesterday. It's definitely a keeper! When it finally is mine I will probably get some wood grips since my Hogue monogrip will probably be put back on the 642 for my wife. She loves that grip and shoots the 642 very well.

DAdams
June 12, 2007, 03:39 PM
Brassman-

As long as we all have our 642's I'm sure fiVe will be ok. ;) There are enough differences in the two and since it is new handgun from S&W current owners should be able to provide guidance to prospective owners so they don't have to wade through the hundreds of pages for Club 642.

You are further ahead of me. Iv'e had mine for a month and it is still NIB.
I haven't had a chance to get to the range with lots of family activities and work keeping me from one of my favorite activities.

I am not recoil sensitive so I'm relatively certain the speciality .357 loads for short barrels will although not be perhaps a day at the beach also will be quite tolerable. Glad to hear it wasn't a "howitzer". Empirically it should be somewhere between a 642 and a Scandium, Titanium 340pd in terms of proportional weight and felt recoil.
I really plan on carrying +P anyway and was just looking for something lighter to pocket carry. I have to admit I like the looks the sights and with the SS cylinder it should be easier to maintain.

My wife has my 642 with the CTs when I am out of town and I am still using it until I get a couple hundred rounds through the 340. I also have other auto carry options as-well. I am just more a fan of the snubs and can target with no problem.

Glad to have you here.

What is your favorite pocket carry holster?

20Nickels....two ounces worth of felt recoil reduction over the lighter versions. :rolleyes: Just kidding, or two ounces worse than the 642. :D with the ammunition all being the same in our hypothetical test.

Brassman
June 12, 2007, 04:02 PM
DA

I have the Nemesis that I used for about a year. The holster I use now is from K&D Holsters. It's leather and called the Combination Pocket Defender.

The reason I don't use the Nemesis is that the grip was hard to conceal in short pocketed dress pants. I started to cut the Nemesis off at the bottom and keep using it since it never comes out of the pocket on the draw and is the easiest to draw from. I didn't have the heart to take a razor to it, so I just kept it.

I had a Pocket Defender made for my P3At and liked it very well. Then I had one made for my P11 as well as for the 642. The Defender lets the weapon ride lower in the pocket, but has nowhere near the draw capability of the Nemesis. I'm still trying to break the 2 newer holsters in. The one for the 642 is loosening up some and makes for an easier draw. I must admit I very seldom carry the P11 because it's too thick and heavy for the pocket, even though it has been 100% reliable right out of the box in the last year.

If I ever get another pocket holster, it would have to be the Mika since that seems to be most everyone's favorite.

DAdams
June 12, 2007, 04:04 PM
A comment from Florida Bob over on the S&W Forum about light weight snubs.

When I bought my new 360SC Saturday as my main new carry weapon, I really had worries about recoil after reading "a dream to carry and nightmare to shoot" and other like comments.

Took one look at the Bantam grip and decided that is nuts. Changed to the Hogue that gives me room for my pinkie on the grip. Felt 100% better and immediately convinced me that it would likely not be that bad on recoil.

Got to the range last eve and was majorly surprised. The recoil is not at all scary. Significant, but not much more than any small .38 or .357, including my wife's 60LS. The Hogue seems to have made the difference.

Accuracy was surprising, too. Shot the first 10 rounds at 21 feet and put all into a 8" target with 4 inside the 2" bullseye. Handed it over to the wife and she did about the same thing.


If you are even thinking about the 12oz weight, carry-ability and stopping power of this S&W, go for it. If you are a novice, it will open your eyes but in one afternoon, you should get comfortable.

This should bode well for anyone considering a M&P 340 since the sc is 2 oz lighter yet. Hey who knows, I may get one of these too. :banghead:

See a photo of the Hogue Monogrips above. Great for control with a full hand grip and I don't find them a negative for concealment or draw unless you have shallow pockets. Anyone purchasing a 340 has to have deep pockets anyway. (drum roll).

Brassman
June 12, 2007, 04:18 PM
I found no difference in accuracy with the one I shot yesterday and the 642 I've had for 2 1/2 years. The first five shots at 21 ft. could have been covered with a half dollar. These were my light .38 wadcutters. Then I changed to my light .357 LSWC's and the next 5 shots at 50 ft. could have been covered by a 45 record album, if there's anyone here who remembers what 45's looked like. That's about what I'm accustomed to with my 642. All of this was slow-fired, of course. I'm sure using a Monogrip could tighten any of this up a bit.


We found out that using the Hogue kept my wife from twisting the weapon in her hand as she was squeezing the trigger. She loves that grip! She doesn't have big hands, but it made her grip more stable.

Brassman
June 12, 2007, 04:19 PM
Yes, I do hear that drum rolling........$635 tax and all! And that's for the M&P!

buzz_knox
June 12, 2007, 04:27 PM
DAdams, you wouldn't happen to make it out to Coal Creek Armory in Knoxville on occasion would you? I'm considering the 340 and would love the chance to try one beforehand, if that were possible.

Nematocyst
June 12, 2007, 05:43 PM
Hmmm. Sure are a lot of familiar user names in this thread. I wonder why? :rolleyes:

Just subscribing to read. I'm not really interested in a 340. No, really, I'm not interested. You believe me, don't you? :uhoh: Really, I'm not interested in a hand-held howitzer. Really ... I just want to read all the stories about broken wrists from firing fullbore loads. :neener:

But I'm not really interested in ...

OK, so maybe just a little curious.
But I won't buy one. No way in hell ...

Well, OK, maybe someday ...

:D

T. Bracker
June 12, 2007, 06:12 PM
How much heavier is the 340 M&P than the Scandium version?

Brassman
June 12, 2007, 09:41 PM
642 is 15 oz. empty
M&P 340 is 13.3 oz. empty
340PD Scandium is 12 oz. empty
These are S&W's numbers.

The M&P 340 that I bought weighed in at 14 oz. on the dealer's scales.

Brassman
June 12, 2007, 09:45 PM
Please, read all you want to, but you KNOW you WANT one. Come on now, admit it. You can have the 642 for your 870's partner, but you know your 336 or 39A need a playmate. Why not come over to the dark,... and I do mean dark....side?


Somewhere off in the future for me: SP101, PF9, Bushmaster A3, Remington 1187, Vaquero in .357................They're all out there, somwhere.

coach22
June 12, 2007, 10:03 PM
Is a 340 PD welcome?

coach22

fiver
June 12, 2007, 10:31 PM
Damn, I am really kicking myself here. I've been looking for a M&P 340 with CT grips for a while now. Everyone was either out of stock or asking too much.

I ffinallyl ound a stocking dealer with the standard model and figured what the hell, I'll order it and get some LG-405's off ebay or something in the next few months.

The gun will be here tommorow. In all the reasearch I did before purchasing, I never noticed that little S&W logo on the factory grips. So now I will probably have to pay $250 to Smith so I can have the damn logo on there instead of the CT logo :banghead:

I don't normally care about these things but with a gun this nice it'd kill me not to have the smith logo on the grips.

jfh
June 12, 2007, 10:46 PM
My M&P 340 is at the 'smith's, getting its action job. Got it about a month ago, and I even used it to shoot my (very basic) CC qualifying. Incidentally, I weighed it on my postal scale here, and it came in at 13.34 oz...so the S&W specs are accurate.

Mine has the Meprolight front sight, and I added the aftermarket CT-405 grips. Courtesy of you guys in the 640 thread, I got a couple of Mika pocket holsters as well.

FWIW, the hard rubber speedloaders from speedloaders.com are clearly the best speedloader I have used. Takes a bit of practice, like any other defensive skill, but they work, and work fast. IMO, 'way better than a Speed Strip. Here's a link to the 'factory' page--http://www.speedloaders.com/ Brownell's and other places carry them.

Until I get more familiar with it, I think I'll be carrying the FC .38 Spl 110-gr. PD loads, or possibly the 129-gr +P loads.

And, I even bought a 640 to practice with.

Jim H.

DAdams
June 12, 2007, 11:51 PM
Coach if you are a glutton for punishment and a hand canon handler, you are welcome.

We will take on all S&W snubbies with exotic metals under 15 oz. :scrutiny:

So, what's the largest .357 load you put through your pd and your hand was able to sustain the pain? What is your carry round? Do you have to sign documents with the "other hand" now?

Do you see a M&P 340 in your future or are you happy with what you brought? :evil:

DAdams
June 12, 2007, 11:54 PM
Nem

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please, read all you want to, but you KNOW you WANT one. Come on now, admit it. You can have the 642 for your 870's partner, but you know your 336 or 39A need a playmate. Why not come over to the dark,... and I do mean dark....side?



Nem really is a closet 340 wannabe but he is on another mission right now ;) he is pumping iron in preparation of the new Model 65 and all the polishing ahead. He is heading in a heavier direction at this time in his life (K Frame) :rolleyes: if you know what I mean. :eek:

DAdams
June 13, 2007, 12:02 AM
The gun will be here tommorow. In all the reasearch I did before purchasing, I never noticed that little S&W logo on the factory grips. So now I will probably have to pay $250 to Smith so I can have the damn logo on there instead of the CT logo

I don't normally care about these things but with a gun this nice it'd kill me not to have the smith logo on the grips.

Fiver, welcome. I feel kind of the same way about that brass logo thingy on the Pachs I didn't get as standard grips. ;) when I got the 405s.

Yep, gotta have those S&W logo grips fo sho.

If you get off for $250 at S&W let me know, it may become my most fashionable shopping address for CTs. Now, if they would only offer optional 305s. Don't forget to get a set of Hogue Monogrips. Inexpensive and feel real nice. Don't loose the lanyard post in the shagadelic carpet if you change out your grips. :D

DAdams
June 13, 2007, 12:06 AM
jfh-

count me in--

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

My M&P 340 is at the 'smith's, getting its action job. Got it about a month ago, and I even used it to shoot my (very basic) CC qualifying. Incidentally, I weighed it on my postal scale here, and it came in at 13.34 oz...so the S&W specs are accurate.

Mine has the Meprolight front sight, and I added the aftermarket CT-405 grips. Courtesy of you guys in the 640 thread, I got a couple of Mika pocket holsters as well.


Consider yourself in, and Welcome.

Glad someone is getting some "action" around here. :D What does an action job on a 340 consist of? Who is doing it and what does it cost? What spring weights are being used on th AJ?

Meprolight front sight? How does that differ from the standart Tritium sight?

Two Mikas? Nice going, both for the 340? One square, one round?
They are sweet holsters. Kudos to Robert Mika.

What's your carry round and have you put any .357 rounds downrange?

Nematocyst
June 13, 2007, 03:15 AM
Nem really is a closet 340 wannabe ...Who?

Me?

:rolleyes:

... but he is on another mission right now ...
he is pumping iron in preparation of the new Model 65

Yep. ;)

{3rd set}

You guys go on without me for now.
I'll get there as soon as I get this 65
polished up ... :cool:

Nematocyst
June 13, 2007, 04:10 AM
The only .357 I carry .38's in is a 12 oz snubby j-frame--and that's because I experimented with it long enough to decide that I give up too much control with any real .357 load in that gun.Quote is here. (http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=3454594&postcount=17)

Here's another (http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=3455078&postcount=20):

I carried full-charge .357s in my Colt M357 in Viet Nam. My daughter carries .357s in her 3" Ruger SP 101 (which I bought for her.) I feel that gun is about the limit for .357s for most people -- any lighter and you start to develop bad habits in practice (or stop practicing.)

:scrutiny:

fiver
June 13, 2007, 11:01 AM
CT direct from S&W (http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=54005&langId=-1&parent_category_rn=32818&training=) $285 after shipping and tax.

I read over on the CT forums that S&W is the only manufacturer that allows you to buy CT's with thier logo after the fact. For other brands if you want thier fancy logo you have to buy it installed on the gun from the factory.



If you get off for $250 at S&W let me know, it may become my most fashionable shopping address for CTs. Now, if they would only offer optional 305s. Don't forget to get a set of Hogue Monogrips. Inexpensive and feel real nice. Don't loose the lanyard post in the shagadelic carpet if you change out your grips.

coach22
June 13, 2007, 12:00 PM
Thanks for the welcome.
I tried Federal "reduced recoil" 357's.
They are full power loads. NOT "reduced recoil".
Shame on Federal for marketing that way.
I loaded Corbon DPX and Speer Gold Dot Short Barrel,
in 38+P and 357 in the same cylinder.
The Speers had much greater recoil.
Mine is loaded with Corbon DPX.
First 2-38+P and last 3-357. Both easy to control.
I ordered Buffalo Bore Standard Pressure
Non +P in 38 Special (158 grain).
They say 900 FPS out of a 2 inch and no leading.
I haven't had a chance to try them out yet.
Might load those as first 2 after I try them out.
I've had it for about 2 years. NOTHING carries better.

coach22

jfh
June 13, 2007, 12:03 PM
Glad someone is getting some "action" around here. What does an action job on a 340 consist of? Who is doing it and what does it cost? What spring weights are being used on th AJ?

Meprolight front sight? How does that differ from the standart Tritium sight?


1. Although I am an experienced novice 1911 'smith, I have not done anything with revolvers. From what I have read in forums and manuals, though, there is not a lot to be done to a j-frame action. You can 'drop in' a spring kit--and I have read in forums of owners being highly satisfied with that.

My 'smith probably just polished the action and may have clipped a spring--something like that. I got the 640 back from him last Saturday--it has a very smooth pull, with a distinct 'notch' at the takeup. I've found it very easy to adapt to staging the trigger. The pull weight is 10-lbs in standard DA pulling--but it's very smooth.

Cost was 70.00; no issues there. Someone else (don't have the link) is promoting himself as a j-frame guru, and his charges start at $180.00--and may well be worth it, for all I know. The point is, my 'smith is experienced with j-frames (now carries a 642 in his hip pocket at his shop--which is remote / out in the country). However, he's mostly a rifle builder who will do general gunsmithing.

2. I misspoke about the brand of front site--it's the standard 'small dot-white circle' one--is that an XS brand?

FWIW, I paid about 234.00, shipping included for the CT-logo 405--that was from Ultimate Outdoors. Over the weekend, I paid $205.00, shipping included, for the CT-Logo 305 for the 640. That was from Impact Guns.

I'M LOOKING FOR A NIGHT-DOT FRONT SIGHT FOR THE 640-- can't seem to find one. Does anyone know of one for that standard pinned & slot design mount?

RELOADING: If some of you posters here also do reloading, you'll find I have a topic going in that forum about handloads for the 2" barrels. Basically, I am developing practice ammo for 2" barrels, primarily using .38 Special / +P loadings. However, I have also found reload data for .357 magnum that provides lower-pressure loads, but stronger than .38+P.

If any one has reload data that's appropriate for these 2" barrel guns, feel free to add to the link:

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=278146

It looks to me right now like there may be real promise for PD loads, or practice loads, under the Speer GDSBJHT 135-gr. bullet--but loads development is just getting under way, with no real organized data yet.

Personally, I have no desire to shoot full-power .357 loads in either of these guns--I'm a placement-kind-of-guy, not a max-power one. I'll practice a lot with the 640, and shoot the 340 as needed to keep the skills developed for actual carry use. There might be full-house SB loads in the speedloader, however.

Jim H.

DAdams
June 13, 2007, 12:33 PM
I ordered Buffalo Bore Standard Pressure
Non +P in 38 Special (158 grain).
They say 900 FPS out of a 2 inch and no leading.
I haven't had a chance to try them out yet.
Might load those as first 2 after I try them out.


Anxious to hear how these work out for you. I bought two boxes and haven't had a chance to range them out either. I bought the soft nose.

fiver-
That's is not a bad price for the S&W CT grips after the fact. I think I paid 239 for mine OTD on one of the on-line stores.

PaladinX13
June 13, 2007, 12:51 PM
I'm using the 20D (150gr very hard cast, full wad-cutter), I absolutely adore this load. After a little practice, I've become very accurate with it. I suspect you'll enjoy the 20C which seems pretty similar.

I've had a PD and don't need a M&P and yet I feel the pull for one!

Brassman
June 14, 2007, 11:39 PM
We'll probably lose the battle at trying to get Nematocyst over to the dark side with these comments, but I have to say them anyway.

Went to the range again today and shot the M&P 340. Began with 5 rounds of my 148gr BBWC with no problem. Then proceeded to my light .357 158gr LSWC. Shot 5 rounds with some discomfort at the base of my right thumb. Next went with my heavy .357 158gr JHP that I use Alliant 2400 on. Shot 3 rounds and on the 2nd round nearly took out my right thumb with the recoil. The 3rd round had jumped crimp and locked the cylinder down. Removed the round which had jumped crimp and didn't fire the 5th round because of thumb and web of palm pain.

Concensus: will not shoot any more rounds charged with 2400 for a while, and when I do, they will have an extra heavy crimp applied to see if they still jump. For now, the Remington FBI load in .38sp +P will be the maximum power carry load for this weapon. I think the history of this round proves it is a more than sufficient stopper anyway.

All of this testing was done with the factory grip. Later, when my thumb heals a little, I will take my wife's monogrip off her 642 and try this sequence again to see if things are different.

Don't think I don't still love this piece. It's 2 oz. lighter than the 642 and is more than controllable and comfortable with the FBI load (my usual carry). The monogrip will probably do its normally sufficient job of controlling recoil and making second shots easier. It also costs only about $15 to install a new one.

PS Have I got a good woman, or what? She went with me to the range today on our 27th anniversary and shot better than I did left handed. Maybe that's why we've been together for so long. She's a good 'un!

Nematocyst
June 15, 2007, 02:15 AM
We'll probably lose the battle at trying to get Nematocyst over to the dark side ... Who, me?

Just taking in all the data here. :rolleyes:

Sure am glad I'm gonna have a model 65 soon for .357s.

;)

wardog
June 16, 2007, 03:22 AM
Is the CT grip more comfortable for shooting than the boot grip?

Looks like it might be since there appears to be some rubber on the back.

I'm wondering why no one seems to be making a grip for the J frames like what comes on a Ruger Super Redhawk Alaskan. Nice cushiony portion at the top of the grip in the back.

fiVe
June 16, 2007, 04:47 AM
You probably know from the 642 Club that I have an M&P 340 laid away. I hope fiVe doesn't throw me out of the club for joining here.

Dude, once you join the 642 Club, you are a member for life (so concerning your being here---hey! it's cool...)


As long as we all have our 642's I'm sure fiVe will be ok.

True. Actually, I just want to perpetuate/propagate revolvers. (I'm somewhat partial to snubbies, and the 642 is my favorite.......just so you know.)

Nematocyst
June 16, 2007, 04:58 AM
Rumors are spreading that
fiVe is a closet 340 guy ...

:scrutiny:

Understatement of the year:

"I'm somewhat partial to snubbies."

:D

DAdams
June 16, 2007, 10:06 AM
I certainly like my 642 since I am somewhat proficient with it and it is still my primary carry.. for now. Drat if I could just get to the range to try out the 340.
Perhaps not, maybe I will turn it into a NIB safe queen. Then again.;)

Having read another thread on the evolution of man and handguns I read somewhere that the elusive Model 65 K Frame in 3 inch is the nads. :D
Maybe Arguy made that statement. I will have to investigate and keep my antennae tuned at the pawn shops now. I wondered what my next wheeler was going to be. Nema may be on to something.

:banghead: This hobby/lifestyle is like, well addictive.

Speaking of levers (I am easily diverted) I need to take some pics of my recent inheretence items and postem up. Marlin, 3 Winnies and a sweet .410.

JMFred
June 16, 2007, 09:43 PM
I've got a 3" 65 already but I sure do want a 340! I'd like to set up my 642 with a Barami Hip Grip and a Tyler T and convince my wife to carry it. Then I can put my 405's on the 340 :evil:

fastbolt
June 16, 2007, 10:41 PM
I suppose I can visit here every once in a while, considering I picked up a M&P 340 Centennial a couple months ago ... ;)

I took my new M&P340 Centennial out to the range back in April and ran a little over a hundred rounds through it.

More than half of the rounds fired were various .38 Special loads ... (probably closer to 3/4's of the rounds fired) ... including standard pressure 110gr Winchester STHP and Federal Low Recoil 110gr; Speer 125gr & 135gr +P; and El Dorado Starfire 125gr +P (found a couple boxes in my ammo locker I'd forgotten I had) ... and I ran several cylinder loads of some Remington 125gr Golden Sabre and Federal Low Recoil 130gr .357 Magnum through it, as well.

The Magnum loads I tried seemed as though they were less brutal than the Remington 125gr Magnum rounds I've previously fired through a few other Scandium Magnum J-frames equipped with titanium cylinders. It probably wasn't just my impression, either, as I had another instructor try it, too. He hadn't enjoyed shooting the last Airlite Magnum J-frame he'd tried, which I'd loaded with Rem 125gr SJHP Magnum rounds, and he described this one, loaded with one of the other Magnum loads, as easier to shoot.

I did notice some bullet-pull with the Remington Golden Sabre Magnum loads, though, with the 5th round exhibiting bullet movement from the case mouth, apparently caused by the recoil from the 4 fired rounds. It was the same with a few cylinderful's. Guess I won't be using that load in this particular lightweight Scandium gun. The Federal Magnum load didn't seem to exhibit any bullet movement, and I may pick up some more.

I decided to buy this new model mostly because I looked at it as sort of an 'improved' version of my 642-1 (in my mind) and my original thinking was to just use .38 Spl +P ammunition. However, since the felt recoil of the Magnum ammunition wasn't as bad as I remember from the last few experiences of shooting one or another of the Airlite Magnum J-frames I might change my mind and actually carry Magnum loads from time to time.

In the meantime I'll probably continue to load it with a .38 Spl +P load. ;)

I'm going to try some Winchester 145gr STHP Magnum next, as that used to be one of my favorite standard service loads when I carried an issued .357 Magnum revolver. I felt it offered me some improved controllability over the 125gr Magnum loads in the full-size guns, and I liked the bullet design and weight.

The XS dot front sight is much smaller than my early Ashley Big Dot, so I'm guessing this is the standard size front sight. It seems to fit the gun well, size-wise. Once I remembered to cover the intended POI with the XS dot (like I have to do with my Big Dot sight on my CS45) my POA/POI at 10 yards was fine. It was bit low until I did so.

All things considered, this seems to be an interesting example of the J-frame line. I like the steel cylinder and the XS tritium sight.

There are a couple of minor details I wish they could've done better at the factory when assembling my particular example, but that's the way it seems to be nowadays, and not just with a single manufacturer, either.

For example, what I thought was a weirdly colored patch of something on the frame, around the front screw head, easily wiped off with a dampened patch. However, when it was gone it revealed a smooth & shiny narrow crescent cut in the frame surrounding the screw head. Probably resulted from someone experiencing a moment's inattention at the factory during assembly, during which the screwdriver tip cut into the black finished frame ... after which a felt-tip marker somehow came by to visit, covering the shiny 'oops'. :scrutiny: Oh well ...

My purchase of the M&P340 makes the second J-frame I picked up since I first visited the 642 thread. If I'm not careful I may end up going back to spending more money on guns than I do on cigars and adult beverages. :eek:

Something I found interesting about the 642 thread, though, is that back in my first posting I made a comment to the effect that if S&W ever made a Scandium alloy J-frame with a stainless steel cylinder (instead of titanium) that I'd buy one.

Guess I did.;)

I weighed my M&P340 on an electronic scale and received a consistent reading of 13 3/8 oz. (empty). I can feel (by hand) the difference in weight when comparing it to my 642-1 and 37-2 Airweights.

Nice J-frame.

Nematocyst
June 16, 2007, 10:58 PM
Fastbolt, that's a great review. Thx.

Very interesting observations on rnds.

I'd like to hear from you and other 340 owners about how the quality of materials and workmanship and feel of the 340 stacks up v. the 642. Are they comparable, or does the 340 have an edge?

I realize that's kind of an apples and oranges question (or maybe red delicious v jonathans) given the caliber capability differences, but I think a comparison is still possible.

Brassman
June 17, 2007, 12:20 AM
My thumb seems to be healing quickly from the bruise inflicted by the recoil of my heavy .357's on Thurs. The next time we go to the range I'm going to see if factory .357 jump crimp like my hand rolled ones did.

I may also experiment with mixing a cylinder between Remington FBI loads and heavy .357. If factory JHP .357's jump crimp after 3 or 4 rounds, one could carry with two .357's loaded up front and load the rest of the cylinder with the FBI. You could fire the first 2 rounds with no crimp jump and have the best .38 +P rounds in reserve.

The reason I bought the M&P 340 was to replace the 642 that my wife is now carrying, but if I could carry at least 2 rounds of .357 that would be a nice thought.

Nematocyst
June 17, 2007, 01:40 AM
...one could carry with two .357's loaded up front and load the rest of the cylinder with the FBI. You could fire the first 2 rounds with no crimp jump and have the best .38 +P rounds in reserve.Ah, watching the evolution of loading strategies for ultralight snubs.

Da'um, life is good.

jfh
June 17, 2007, 12:55 PM
...one could carry with two .357's loaded up front and load the rest of the cylinder with the FBI. You could fire the first 2 rounds with no crimp jump and have the best .38 +P rounds in reserve.

How about the .38 Special / .38+P as the first three loads, so you can get off the followup shot without suffering that bruised thumb and the concomitant distractions....

Jim H.

DAdams
June 17, 2007, 02:37 PM
Great review of the 340.

I may have to revisit those Federal 130 low recoils. Aren't those the ones where you need a PhD and a sledge to open the box? :uhoh:
Maybe I won't.

The Magnum loads I tried seemed as though they were less brutal than the Remington 125gr Magnum rounds I've previously fired through a few other Scandium Magnum J-frames equipped with titanium cylinders. It probably wasn't just my impression, either, as I had another instructor try it, too. He hadn't enjoyed shooting the last Airlite Magnum J-frame he'd tried, which I'd loaded with Rem 125gr SJHP Magnum rounds, and he described this one, loaded with one of the other Magnum loads, as easier to shoot.


I'll bet that is just what S&W had in mind when they developed this beauty. ;)

Civilization is "a hundred layers of ten thousand decisions, only a few of them even interesting". Procurring a 340 falls into the interesting category.

fastbolt
June 17, 2007, 03:28 PM
Aren't those the ones where you need a PHD and a sledge to open the box?
Pretty much.;)

The 'low recoil' is only by comparison to a couple of other loads I've tried. The report is sharp and the pistol wants to torque in your hand and whip upward. Achieving fast AND accurate groups on a target takes some determination, especially when shooting 1-handed. That's what training's for, though, right?

The bottom edge of my trigger finger generally takes a bit of a beating after a couple of boxes of rounds of +P loads, and the Magnum loads seem to quicken the process.;)

I'm going to try a few cylinder loads of some Winchester 145gr STHP next time out.

In the meantime I'm fine with continuing to carry .38 Spl loads.

Nice to have the option of the Magnum loads, though.

rich642z
June 19, 2007, 12:06 PM
DADAMS,One Question om the M&P340,How is that steel under the top strap holding up?????? I am thinking of getting one also,but, being disabled,its going to take me awhile to get the money up to pay for that since I am only on Social Security Disability checks. Thanks,Rich@642z

kashton
June 20, 2007, 06:24 AM
How did you get such good prices on the M&P 340 regular and CT?

At my local dealer, the regular is $683 + tax

travl4me1
June 20, 2007, 07:25 PM
re:s&w 340

Could someone post a good picture of the gun turned the other way? Every photo I can find of this firearm (anywhere) shows the gun pointed to the right. Much like the first photo in the thread but have the barrel pointed to the left instead of right?

I wish I had my camera here to take a photo if mine. For those that have 100+ rounds out of their 340 has your cylinder started to come in contact with your frame? It's happening as I open it up and it falls out - the rear edge of the cylinder is rubbing the frame. It's noticeably silver, rather than black where this rubbing is happening. Maybe its normal (maybe it was always there) but I just noticed mine this past weekend.

On the opposite side of my gun are two gold dots (frame pin - I dunno) under the cylinder. Just beside those is where I am looking.

travl4me1
June 20, 2007, 08:56 PM
Not sure how to post pics , so let me try. It looks like glare but actually is scratched black. My other 2 s&w revolvers are stainless and not noticed.

Again, maybe it has been there all along, but would appreciate somone confirming they see the same wear on theirs.

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=59684&stc=1&d=1182382938

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=59685&stc=1&d=1182383002

jfh
June 20, 2007, 09:34 PM
I have exactly the same rub mark.

I noticed it at the store, before I bought it--didn't really bother me. I did examine it more closely after the first shots--limited to five, BTW, because I was test-firing the 640 first, and ran out of time--and I did (and still do) think it isn't black, but a bright rub mark.

Although my cylinder and crane movements are within spec, it is caused by contact with the cylinder when you open it. In the nominal 70-plus shots total I put through the 340 before I brought it to the smith, the freeplay did not get any worse, nor did the mark.

And yes, the two pins are 'gold' on mine.

On a slightly different topic--my Hip Pock-its arrived today--that's the multifunction tool holster I read about in the 642 club thread. I forget who posted the link there--but here it is now:

http://www.niteize.com/productdetail.php?category_id=28&product_id=100

At any rate--yes, I'm impressed--it's a good quality unit, and complete with four different attachment methods (included HD belt, two sets belt loops (large and duty-belt size), and an IWB flap). It will hold either the 340 or the 640 nicely, with enough padding to prevent any printing, and there is plenty of room for a camera, spare batts, pens, tools, etc., etc.

It's a bit geeky--but that's all right. To me, it doesn't shout 'gun' to savvy sheeples.

Jim H.

DAdams
June 20, 2007, 11:23 PM
On a slightly different topic--my Hip Pock-its arrived today--that's the multifunction tool holster I read about in the 642 club thread. I forget who posted the link there--but here it is now

That would be me.

It's a bit geeky--but that's all right. To me, it doesn't shout 'gun' to savvy sheeples.
Perfect description Jim H. Anyone looking at it would think camera, large flask or "what the hell is that".

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m22/dadams111/P3200057-1.jpg
Closed Position a bit blurry, let's clear this up.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m22/dadams111/P3200002.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m22/dadams111/P3200003.jpg
Shown with S&W 686 CS-1 3 inch.


http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m22/dadams111/P3200056-1.jpg
Still plenty of room for other goodies, small GPS, cell phone, a couple of speedloaders, energy bars etc.

This would swallow a 642/442/340 with lots of room to spare.


Here is a smaller vesion. This one has a "rain shield' that completely covers. Quite fast on the out take. Not as attractive as the large version but faster access to the snubs or small autos. Flip, grab.

With the Kahr PM9

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m22/dadams111/P3200020.jpg

With the ubiquitous 642-2

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m22/dadams111/P3200006.jpg

In the covered position

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m22/dadams111/P3200013.jpg
Prints a bit with the 642 grip to someone aware...."yeah, that's right leave me alone."

Travl4me1, here you go.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m22/dadams111/P5210023.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m22/dadams111/P5210021.jpg

Rich642-
Look closely at the two photos above.
On the frame of the 340 front top there is a piece of metal seperate from and inserted in the frame.
I took this to be a "flame shield" or sacrificial piece which could be replaced once nearly worn from flame cutting.
Anyone else have a theory on this piece?

Kashal
Check with these guys. This is where I got mine.
http://www.randyshuntingcenter.com/
They had the best price two months ago, better than Bud's by $5. and they included shipping, Bud's wanted to add that.
Randys advertizes on GunsAmerica and has a high rating. They were a pleasure to do business with and performed flawlessly.
Sent to my transfer agent on time as promised and out the door I went,..but not before picking up some Speer Gold Dot 135s and a set of Hogue Monogrips.

jfh
June 20, 2007, 11:55 PM
relevant to the current segue.

Now, on the 340:

1. The steel insert on the top front cylinder opening is a shield, alright. It should stop torching, but I still wonder about long term effects there.

2. On my 340, there is a sharp spot on / by the crane hinge, toward the rear of the hinge; since the gun is not here right now, I cannot confirm this location exactly, but I believe it is on the frame and not on the crane. It's a sharp little sprong, all the world like a piece of flashing that was missed in cleanup. Does anyone else have this?

3. When I get mine back (Saturday), I think I will use a black permanent marker to cover the back rub mark and see just how much rubbing occurs. For sure, there is no touching if the cylinder is shoved forward prior to opening. Has anyone else played around with this?

Jim H.

tarheel
June 21, 2007, 08:39 AM
What are your thoughts on having a trigger job, not for a "light" trigger just to smooth the action and still keep a "self defense" pull? This will be a CCW in a pocket holster most of the time; but still in some type of holster the rest of the time. I asked this question in another thread and it was suggested that I move it here! Thanks DAdams!

jfh
June 21, 2007, 11:09 AM
because I didn't want to use 500 rounds or so to smooth the actions out. But, I have a marksmanship background; as a result, I am very conscious of trigger pull characteristics.

It's my understanding that the DAO actions (all J-frames?) are hard to lower the DA pull on. Indeed, my smith (who carries a 442 at work), kept the DA pull at about 10 lbs for ignition reliability.

But, the pull was a lot smoother--and, in accordance with his shooting style, the trigger is now able to be staged beautifully. I'll practice with full-stroke pulls, but the option is there. So, for me it's worth it; much better than the NIB pull on either the 340 or the 640.

Jim H.

DAdams
June 21, 2007, 11:16 AM
Welcome to the Club, by virtue of having a M&P 340 you are now a member, like it or not. ;)

On the trigger job. I don't know how it will effect the "smoothness" of your trigger pull.

I have both a 642-2 and a M&P 340. Out of the box I think the 340 pull is/was much smoother than the 642 new. I dry fired the 642 about 1000 times until it smoothed out. The 340 out of the box feels about as smooth as the 642 does now, without a round through it yet.

I had to send the 642 back to S&W for a sear replacement. It felt even better since they may have cleaned out the MIM dust and perhaps lubed it??

I guess with my limited knowledge I would recommend dry firing it a few hundred times (with or without snap caps, S&W says you dont need them, your call), then take it in for the clean and light lube. Part of the "smoothing process" revolves around wear. Perhaps your smith can accellerate that by working internally?

I certainly wouldn't mind having the trigger pull reduced by a pound or two but I don't know what the optimal would be. I found spending some time building up grip and finger strength with a ball or "grip master" helped too.

Perhaps you have seen the internals of a 642 with ILS? I suspect the "guts" of the 340 are the same. I would be interested to know if there was anything done internally to make the M&P superior?? I doubt it though.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m22/dadams111/642innards.jpg

Let's see how others weigh in.

Again Welcome. Share your photos, range reports etc.

fiver
June 22, 2007, 04:26 PM
So what's the consensus on cleaning these bad boys? Does the "nothing containing ammonia" rule apply to this finish as well? Safe to use a soft brass brush everywere, or only down the barrel?

I'm a bit paranoid, unless anyone knows otherwise I'm nervous to touch this gun with anything more than CLP and a nylon brush.

DAdams
June 22, 2007, 06:02 PM
That's a good question. I didn't check in the manual does it say in there?

I am traveling and don't have mine with me for reference.

I posed the question on the S&W Forum, Gunsmithing Maintenance and also sent an email to S&W.

Let's compare notes when the jury reconvenes.

Ion Bond BLACK Diamond Finish. That's what the spec sheet calls it. Now if we can just figure out how to deal with cleaning.
===============================================================================

I ran into this on another forum. A guy by the name.....IonBond.

"For anyone wanting information about services that Ionbond offers Please contact Ryan Flynn and discuss details... He will only take on work that he has time to deliver on. Our main productiion in for Major Firearms Companies
that we are part of there supply chain. It has alway been difficult to handle custom firearms and meet everone expections. This is the reason Ionbond hired Ryan Flynn as Gunsmith in Greensbogro to try to support after market custom firearms. Ionbond does coat product for every company listed in this thread. during the past two years Ionbond has process over 200,000 firearms.

I'm not sure what Pistolwrench is refering to... DANGER DANGER Will Robinison but I noticed he removed his post.. If he would like to discuss it feel free to pm me and we can discuss it further.

Ionbond also sponsors Taran Butler 3-Gun Nation Champion and Tony Holmes
please feel free to contact either. Check out Matt Burkett's radio show each week for updates on Ionbond..."


Thank You
Ionbond

fiver
June 23, 2007, 01:37 AM
The manual is kinda worthless. It is a generic manual for all "Modern Style" revolvers. For instance, on page 14 it says no bullets less than 120 GR for "All Scandium Revolvers". We know this is not true for the M&P. The manual should say "All Scandium cylinders"

On cleaning it doesn't say much useful. It does say that ammoniated cleaners should never be used on *any* S&W firearm. I have seen some heated discussions before about whether Hoppes #9 has ammonia in it or not, well here are the MSDS for Hoppes Products and we see that it DOES have ammonia

http://www.copquest.com/knowledgebase/index.htm

The final note on cleaning in the manual says "As a rule of thumb, if you would be comfortable applying the solvent of your choice to the finish of your automobile, it will probably be safe to use on your firearm."

I picked up some Hoppes Elite Gun Cleaner tonight, in addition to using it on my car I'd be comfortable drinking the damn stuff. Seemed to do a good job on my grungy Kel Tec.

I forgot to get nylon brushes tonight when I picked up the Hoppes Elite. :banghead: I'll get some tommorow and give the M&P a full clean then get out the the range and finally shoot it!!

Nematocyst
June 23, 2007, 01:40 AM
I picked up some Hoppes Elite Gun Cleaner tonight,
in addition to using it on my car I'd be comfortable drinking the damn stuff.:scrutiny:

DAdams
June 23, 2007, 10:00 AM
fiver-

The owners manuals (S&W) are pathetic. They really are just a legal shell document to mitigate and possibly minmize legal issues. The safety material is of course necessary.

You would think that a gazzillion $$ company would put out a germane manual specific to each of its handguns. Care and feeding type of information instead of what the lawyers mandate.

I have been all over the internet and can find nothing helpful or substantive regarding Ion Bond cleaning and maintenance. :fire:

coltrane679
June 23, 2007, 11:08 AM
Hey, are M&P 360 owners allowed in here? I just gotta have a hammer....

DAdams
June 23, 2007, 12:35 PM
Yep, your are welcome.

M&P 340 sung to the tune "if I had a hammer".

You are especially welcome if you know how to clean the exterior of the "Ion Bond finish" any ideas?
What works, what doesn't. What to stay away from.

How many rounds through it and what's your favorite ammo and holster?

How about a photo. No one has posted a 360 pic yet!!

DAdams
June 23, 2007, 05:36 PM
Here is what my research has revealed.

IonBond

ADLC
Amorphous Diamond Like Carbon. An amorphous carbon material with mostly sp3 bonding that exhibits many of the desirable properties of diamond and graphite.

Advantages of the process:

Extreme toughness of coatings
High loading capacity of certain tools (but long cycle times)
Items to be coated do not require rotation within the retort
Possible to coat complex geometries, including certain inner diameters
Excellent coating uniformity, independent of part geometry

My guess is that it is the same material on this Kershaw Knife.

http://www.ionbond.com/pix/files/knife.pdf

Hardness (HV) 4000.

http://www.ionbond.com/

Rohrbaugh's new "stealth version", is coated with "Diamond Black DLC".
Recall the S&W M&P spec sheet calls the coating: "Ion Bond BLACK Diamond Finish".

I have the similiar coating on the stainless slide of my Kahr PM9.
Here is their description, look familiar?

"Tungsten Diamond Like Carbide (DLC)
The KP9094 matte stainless slide is blackened using an ultra hard and super thin coating called Tungsten DLC. This coating has been used successfully in the knife industry to protect blades from corrosion and scratches."

On my Kahr I have used Outers Tri-Care that came with a cleaning kit, I have used it to clean the barrel and wipe down the exterior finish and including cleaning the interior of the slide with the Tri-Care to get rid of powder residue with no ill effects.

ewayte from the S&W Forum contributes:

"The S&W Product Guide lists it as IonBond DiamondBLACK. The manual states, "Ammoniated solvents or other strong alkaline solvents, should not be used on any Smith & Wesson firearm."

340PD
June 24, 2007, 12:00 AM
On my 340PD. I have not had one problem with the coating coming off. The gun has fired lead, as well as copper plated, and copper jacketed bullets. All were over 125gr. I claen the cylinder face with a nylon brush and Shooters Choice. I really like this thing. It is carried on a daily basis with both 135 gr gold dots in 38 sp. and 357 mag.

DAdams
June 24, 2007, 02:03 PM
Welcome to the 340 Club.

Thanks for the information. How about a picture or two. :D

travl4me1
June 26, 2007, 05:27 PM
For those of you with the Lg 405 Crimson Trace grips - I think that is the model - the newest one anyways.

Why is there a groove cut out of the rear bottom of the grip? Is it for a lanyard of sorts, or just to reduce more weight?

I shoot my 340 approx 25-30 times a session, and notice the bulk of the pain is right where my hand flesh touches this groove. Like it gets pinched. Am I the only one?

I have considered filling it with some black caulk, but would like to understand its actual purpose before doing so. If anyone else has tried anything else, please chime in.

jfh
June 26, 2007, 06:45 PM
OK, I dug out my 340 with the same grips--just got it back from the 'smith for its action job, but I've been sick with the creeping crud and have not been to the range yet.

1. The slot is for a lanyard.

2. I've only shot mine about 80 rounds total so far, including nominally 50 for the CHL field test.

I felt no discomfort from the frame cutout at the back. However, I quickly adjusted my grip for a really high hold: the web between my thumb and forefinger rides well above the top of the grip to maximize the soft rubber and anti-recoil design of this grip. That kind of hold also concentrates the recoil into the meatier part of my hand and reduces a direct transfer into the bones from a lower grip.

I also am not shooting ass-to-the wall loads, like a .357 / 125 Rem load. Until I gain more proficiency, I'm using the FC 110-gr .38 Spl or the 129-gr. .38+P PD loads. There's no point in such punishment, I think.

So, the question is, what are you shooting, travl4me1?


In a slightly different setting, my 'smith friend test-fired my 340 after completing the action job. (He has his own 442 for shop carry, but had done no work on it.).

His test-fire was with a 'standard .38 Spl round'--whatever that means.

One round--without the grip installed.

He said it was distinctly uncomfortable, and suggested I never do it.

Jim H.

travl4me1
June 26, 2007, 07:07 PM
The Rem 357 125gr as you mentioned is what I have been actually shooting the most of, and a fair amount of the Speer short barrel 357 135 grain which I have the laser sighted to.

I will try holding higher as you have done, and see if its comfortable or makes a difference. I have no use for the lanyard as far as I can see. I might carefully caulk the groove and see what I end up with.

I had a shooting glove at one time, but never took a liking to it, so I don't use one. Maybe I need to dig it out. I;ve heard people say "like hitting your hand with a rubber mallet" and that is not what I am experiencing. I just feel like I'm getting skin pinched in that groove. Could be shape of my hands, or soft skin from pushing a pen too much now days.

get to feeling better & thanks Jim.

travl4me1
June 27, 2007, 12:50 PM
Caulk complete. I haven't shot it, but I sense this might remedy my pinch issue. Doesn't look great,but doesn't look awful IMO

Brassman
June 29, 2007, 12:28 AM
After having about 150 rounds of .38 and 50 rounds of .357 through the M&P 340 that I have on layaway the cylinder is beginning to lock down on me. I assume this is because all of the rounds through it so far are of the lead variety. This happened once on my 642, but with a good dose of Gun Scrubber around the cylinder, the binding broke loose and has not frozen up since. I tried this today on the M&P while I was at the range and the binding was relieved, but only for about 2 cylinders worth of rounds, then began binding again. I was hesitant to do much more than this since the weapon still belongs to the range.

I have never removed the cylinder from my 642 or the M&P, so I don't know the procedure. I have done it a couple of times on my GP-100. Is this difficult on a Smith? Can/should it be done at the range while the gun is still on layaway? I certainly don't want to pay the range to remove the lead binding up the cylinder. Any suggestions?

jfh
June 29, 2007, 01:06 AM
1. lay the revolver on its left side
2. loosen the forward side plate screw--it doesn't need to be removed.
3. Open the cylinder, slide the crane assembly out.
4. to reassemble, do the reverse. You may want to secure the screw with a touch of low-strength threadlock, loc-tite, etc., etc.

Be aware of all the usual caveats: use the correct screwdriver bit, do not be ham-handed, etc., etc. If you cannot loosen the screw yourself, hire the gunsmith to do it.

Jim H.

DAdams
June 29, 2007, 04:51 PM
I sent an email to S&W Customer service regarding cleaning of the M&P 340.
As usual the email is short and without detail.

Hi,
Hoppes Elite is recommended for this Model 340 revolver
Do not use anything that has ammonia in it.

cpirtle
July 10, 2007, 12:58 AM
Figured I'd bump this thread and throw in my contribution...

Here's my 360 knucklebuster and a Wilson Combat Shark skin holster.

http://www.pirtleranch.com/images/Guns/M&P_360/360-1.JPG

http://www.pirtleranch.com/images/Guns/M&P_360/360-2.JPG

Spiff_P239
July 11, 2007, 03:56 PM
I'm doing my best to rejoin this club since I foolishly sold my M&P 340 a couple of months ago. I'm having trouble finding a dealer with one in stock. The range that I shoot at has one in stock but it's the display model and would run me another $50 to $60 over what my online sources can get for me.

Brassman
July 19, 2007, 10:10 PM
It has been a while since I have posted anything, but went to the range today and put about 100 rounds through the M&P. I think I love it more than the 642!? Even at 25 yards it's grouping inside the 7 ring on an Anatomy Man target slow-fired. Just practice rounds though. Very lightly charged .38 sp with BBWC's. The trigger is starting to smooth out nicely, as it has been fired about 500 times now. I only put 10 of my light .357's downrange. At 21 feet, rapid fire, all 10 went into the head of the target. Did not fire any of my heavy stuff nor factory today. I'm just trying to warm up to it and get the 642 off my mind since my wife is carrying it now. It's still in the family and goes with her everywhere.

JMFred
August 5, 2007, 11:33 AM
This thread needed a bump (and I need a 340 M&P).

rodensouth
August 5, 2007, 08:50 PM
I was fortunate that my dealer couldn't get the CT version and ordered the base 340 m&p planning to just replace grips with CT's of his shelf. Turns out that I did not like the feel of the CT grips at all. The little hogue's that come on it have more of a palm swell and are softer, so I got off cheaper.
The recoil was nothing like I expected, totally manageable with 158 grain 38 and 357 mags. I would not want to shoot more than a few cylinders of 357 at the time, but I could keep them in the targets chest at 40 feet after shooting a box of 50 specials.
My wife filled out the paperwork, because she also aquired a 640 and planned on picking them up, but they didn't arrive until she was out of town for a week. So, I was able to shoot it, and oooh and ahhh; and then had to leave it at the shop. :banghead:
I've just ordered those Maxfire speedloaders mentioned earlier on this thread because they looked very cool. Has anyone else used them?

DAdams
August 5, 2007, 11:28 PM
rodensouth welcome to The High Road and M&P bunch. Let us know how you like the Maxfires.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=268498&highlight=MAXFIRE+SPEEDLOADER

Here are a couple of responses to a question I asked about this a few months back. I decided not to try them. Most agree that the Bianchi Speedstrips carry well and might load faster than most.
totally manageable with 158 grain 38 and 357 mags. I would not want to shoot more than a few cylinders of 357 at the time, but I could keep them in the targets chest at 40 feet after shooting a box of 50 specials.

I agree with shooting the 340. This revolver weight seems to be the ideal compromise between the 642 and the 340pds.
I found spl and plus P rounds to be manageable for me.
I haven't done any 357 yet, next time. I have some short barrel SGD waiting in the wings.
The sights on this gun are great despite its roll as a point and shooter.

JM Fred, thanks for the bump and we all agree you need a 340.

rodensouth
August 6, 2007, 11:21 AM
DAdams, thanks for the link to the great info. I will make sure to search database next time before making purchases and asking questions!

I also think the sight picture on the 340 is excellent. I can't wait to get my hands on the little beauty.

DAdams
August 6, 2007, 12:37 PM
My life is such a mess some times. I need to get my priorities straight...I know.

I purchased my 340 about 3 months ago and believe it or not hadn't taken it to the range due to business activities and travel committments. When I did get to the range a couple times I didn't have it with me.

That all changed last week. A buddy of mine, a long time long gunner wanted an education on handguns. Even getting around to this has taken 6 months.

I was in Raleigh on business and we got to Daviis to get some range time in.
We shot a couple rentals, a 686 4 inch, a 60 series K frame with CTs, and my 340.
Shot mostly MagTech .38 spl 125 gr fmj through all and then a box of plus P, SGD 135 gr short barrel jhp through the 340.

I had the Hogue Monogrips on for this range session. I ordered it with the 305 Crimson Trace grips and, have a set on my 642 so I know how they perform and feel.

I am more than thrilled with the M&P 340. I originally wanted it for lighter pocket carry (lighter than a 642 I have). It has attained that goal and feels lighter than the actual 2 ounces in hand.
The recoil with the std pressure .38 and plus P was as expected but the Houges probably knocked down the recoil and improved control vs the standard grips or the short 305s. It is safe to say...I am enamoured with these grips. Alot! Hand placement is perfect due to their layout. No pain in the hand nor web pinch. Didn't have time to do .357. That's for another range visit when I have more time. This trip had numerous items we wanted to accomplish and ammunition wasn't the focus, except a few plus Ps on the 340.

Trigger was smooth right of the box. Does that mean the more you spend the more time they may actually take during assembly?
I had only dry fired it 50 or so times but it was noticeably smoother than the 642 was when it was new. No gritty feel. Stacked up S&W style prior to release.

I know that the snubs are point and shooters but the sights were an unexpected pleasure. Big round dots in an ample ramp. They were dead on and easy to acquire and great in the range low light conditions at our station.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/dmadams/P5210020.jpg

The friend that was along to determine what he wanted for a first handgun...
Tried 686, 4 inch, K frame 60 3 inch, M&P 340.
He is ordering a 340, he couldn't keep the smile off his face and I couldn't believe how well he shot it after just a few rounds. Maybe it was my training ;), maybe it was his skill, :cool:, maybe, just maybe it was the 340.

It seems to be the winning combination of weight, balance, and with the full size Hogues, its just awesome.

We stuck with 7 yards for all guns for his comparison purposes. The range had a 3 second rule, we broke it several times with 5 rounds in less than 10 seconds with the 340. Evil grin. I think I could do 7 with decent accuracy.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/dmadams/P8050029.jpg

I can now with experience state that paying twice as much as a X42 was worth it and would recommend that if you have one snub, this is the one to have. Of course one snub is never enough. :rolleyes:

TruPatriot
August 6, 2007, 09:47 PM
I would love to join the 340MP club however, I am having trouble finding any for sale! With that said, can anyone help with a dealer and a great price? Buds has them on order but, has no idea when they will arrive. Please help!

DAdams
August 6, 2007, 11:20 PM
We certainly must assist someone who is Jonesin for a 340.

Did you do a search on Guns America?

How about http://www.randyshuntingcenter.com/
Randy's is where I purchased mine. Shipping was included in the purchase price, ground, and 30 dollars transfer fee charged by a dealer in my home state FL to handle the paperwork.

cpirtle
August 6, 2007, 11:49 PM
I bought my M&P 360 at www.vanceoutdoors.com (http://www.vanceoutdoors.com/) for $619.

They are about 3 hours from me but worth the drive. They are also running XD9's on sale for $399 so I bought one of them as well.

Not sure of their shipping policy but you can give them a call. If Vance's doesn't have one also call Buckeye Outdoors which is the same company but different inventory.

Be sure to download the monthly flyer - right now they show both M&P's for $629.

DAdams
August 7, 2007, 07:42 PM
I checked GA to no avail. Not a one listed. As usual I did see some vintage snubbies I liked though. :banghead: I need to stay away from GA.

They must be popular items.

360 at Bud's but no 340s.

JMFred
August 26, 2007, 12:32 AM
If you guys read Gunblast.com they just put up a review of the 340 :D

ewayte
August 26, 2007, 01:07 AM
I just picked up a M&P 340 to go with my M&P 360 today. It was in the used section and was marked "as new." I traded in my 6 week old M&P9c as I had read too many stories of problems with magazines dropping to broken strikers to rust.

I thought a "high cap" 9 was the way to go, but now I have 10 for sure!

DAdams
August 26, 2007, 10:19 AM
but now I have 10 for sure

I like the way you think. Congrats on a great find. Nice to know some previously owned 340s are hitting the market.

That's a great combo you have going now. There a bunch of folks with 442/642 but I'll bet you are one of the first with 340/360, nice. :cool:

DAdams
August 26, 2007, 12:29 PM
Jeff Quinn reviews the M&P 340.

I think he did a good job of summarizing why we like the snub nosed, J Frame, Centennial, Airweight format to begin with.

He also picks apart the Sc/Ti. Which was a noble endeavor but turned out to be a bit over the top.

The M&P 340 is the best of or greatest hits of the two designs. Where the sum of the parts of the two yield something better than both.

http://gunblast.com/SW-340MP.htm

DAdams
August 31, 2007, 03:05 PM
Looking for a 340?

I was at my LGS in Palm Harbor FL, Take Aim Guns, today and they have a NIB M&P 340 at $699 on the shelf.

travl4me1
August 31, 2007, 03:13 PM
$680 is about as cheap as I have seen them. Buds Guns in Paris,KY. I have bought a few other handguns since my 340, but it's the one I love the most.

DAdams
August 31, 2007, 04:58 PM
Thanks for stopping by and welcome to the Club!

Tell us about your 340 experiences. Grips, ammo, range work etc.
How do you carry your 340?

Pictures always welcome.

travl4me1
August 31, 2007, 05:09 PM
You can spend a small fortune on holsters...and I have. Without a doubt, "Mika's pocket holster" is the least expensive, yet best holster I have purchased for my 340. It rides in my front right pocket. You can't see it and I forget it's there. I typically use Rem 125's for practice, and carry the 135 Speer short barrels 357's.

25-50 practice shots per weekend...weather permitting on private acreage near my home. I've made a pretty good little range area. I am equipped with the Crimson Trace Laser grip as well as the trijicom front night sight. Unless arthritis gets me later in life (and the recoil begins to hurt), I really can't see ever buying another firearm for carry purposes. The M&P 340PD w/ CTC is everything I ever wanted and more.

It's all good!

DAdams
September 4, 2007, 12:11 PM
pcmike

Regarding the "now I have seen everything" J Frame with M&P on it.
AKA M&P 340.


I have not found much information on the the M&P with the exception of a few posts here and there on the S&W site. Even those weren't meaty.

I started a "Club" Thread a few months ago and have tried to accumulate information when I run across it.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=282173

There have been some gun magazine reviews but I haven't seen them.

I purchased it NIB with CT 405s. $779 included shipping. Plus $25 for FFL.
Same dealer had it w/o the CTs for $599 including shipping.
At the time Bud's was at $603 plus shipping.

I saw an advertisement for it on GunsAmerica.
http://www.randyshuntingcenter.com/
Through this dealer in MI. Good service, no issues. Would purchase from them again.

I rotate carry it with a 642 w/CT405s. The reason? Right now I have Hogue Monogrips on it. This form factor won't work in shallow pockets, so I grab the 642 in the Mika.

I am also getting used to my first IWB carry holster with the Hogues. Eventually I will put the CTs back on.

I'm going to paste this in the 340 thread. I will be posting some holster updates and range reports so check back.

DAdams
September 4, 2007, 01:40 PM
I pocket carry 100 percent of the time.....thought is was time to break out.

Just on an impulse I purchased a Uncle Mik'e Sidekick (inexpensive) just to try the concept of IWB which is new to me.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/dmadams/P9040021.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/dmadams/P9040023.jpg

Can be worn strong side or weak side cross draw. The 340 had the Hogue Mono's on so it wasn't as comfortable sitting as with the CT 405s. Cover could be sweater, shirt etc.

I don't know if IWB is for me; but I thought I would give it a try.

travl4me1
September 4, 2007, 03:06 PM
Great pictures Dadams. Until Mika's pocket holster, I was using a Galco ankle holster for the 340 (and carrying a Kel-Tec 32 in my front right pocket.) I find the Galco ankle pretty comfortable, although opinions are mixed.

My biggest concern was being able to reach it if I ever really needed it. I have no first hand experience with a self defense situation, but from what I read it generally happens very quickly with little time to respond. I'd hate to have to kneel down, pull up my jean leg and unholster the weapons. Mika's holster keeps it within reach 100% of the time.

I like and have a lot of faith in my little Kel-Tec, but it took a lot of time and money to get it to function reliably. Still I always felt underpowered with it being the gun I would likely reach for in my front pocket. I am very thankful to be able to carry the 340 up front now- even with dress shorts. I tend to buy an inch or two bigger than my actual waist and wear a belt. This seems to give me just a little more pocket space, and hides any printing.

For what it is worth, and completely off the 340 topic. I bought a M&P compact 40 last weekend. Not even in the same ballpark of concealability of a J frame revolver, but it is a sweet firing small semi auto. I am not a semi auto fan at all, and over the years I eventually have sold or traded any semi auto I have owned (Berettas and Glocks) and replaced them all with revolvers. I don't believe I will get rid of this semi auto. 150 flawless rounds, and it felt like it was custom made for my hand, and operated very smoothly. Even my 95 lbs, 4ft 11in wife took 30 rounds with it before deciding her wrist had enough...her everyday purse carry is the 32H&R Mag J frame.

Glad the 340 club is here! I hope more people consider this fantastic J Frame. If anyone in Middle TN wants to take one for a test drive, I'd be more than happy to get together and let you shoot mine all you want.

DAdams
September 4, 2007, 04:13 PM
I'm not certain I will carry IWB, but the Uncle Mikes was inexpensive and a cheap way to try out the M.O. I tried the holster with the 642 and with the shorter butt it was more comfy. Just a proof of concept, concept.

Glad to hear you like the M&P40c. I have come close a couple times to just purchasing a M&P 9, 40 as the are quite reasonably priced... or I'm really hoping S&W comes out with 45c one of these days.
The only thing, I don't know what I would do with it except have fun at the range or use it for home protection or carry it in the truck. I already have a few handguns to cover all those basis, but still I want one.

One thing I really like is the ILS is optional and I would definitely take a pass on it. Multiple grips are nice too and the axis is lower than the XD which makes it more attractive than blocky.

I have another semi-auto I'm pursuing which is taking all my time and $$ trying to track down.

The more time I spend with the 340, the more I like it. Have you run any .357 through it yet?

travl4me1
September 4, 2007, 07:34 PM
"The only thing, I don't know what I would do with it except have fun at the range or use it for home protection or carry it in the truck. I already have a few handguns to cover all those basis, but still I want one."

:D That's the true sad stories of our lives, isn't it? My plan is to keep mine in the car console. I only got it cause I was home bound for two weeks recovering from some surgery, in a lot of pain, and decided getting the M&P 40 would make me feel better and aid in my recovery. It sure did!

Maybe I am just use to the heavy trigger pull of my 340, but I would be a little uncomfortable carrying the M&P 40 concealed on me. It's 6.5 lbs on the trigger and no external safety. It feels lighter than that to my finger - 2/3 lighter feeling than my little Kel-tec, and a lot shorter pull. There is a hinged trigger safety mechanism, but it would take a very hard and secure holster for me to feel good about shoving this gun in my pants. I'm usually not bothered by that this kind of stuff.

I had such a bad experience with my last semi auto that I swore them off forever. It was one of the first Beretta 9000 compacts. The safety was recalled a time or two, and just junk out of the box. I had a few gunsmiths work on it, but it couldn't fire 3 rounds in a row without something jamming or breaking. I threw it in a closet and forgot about it. I dug it out when I purchased my 340. Didn't give me zilch for trade in based on the reputation of the gun, and I fully disclosed it was a malfunctioning P.O.S.

I've never had a misfire, or any problem in my 340, and I am well over 500 rounds. I pretty much only run 357 ammo through it. I did buy a case of Winchester target 38 Specials the other day for my 642 revolver, and I suspect I will use some of it in the 340 for fun. I am taking a "stress shooting" class soon in Nashville, and was going to use the 642 since I was told to bring 500 rounds! But this weekend, I bought a case of 40 cal, and I might take the M&P 40...or both. :confused:

The defensive load I use in the 340 is the Speer gold dot, 135 grain short barrel 357 mag's. The recoil of those don't phase me. Now the 357 remington 125 grain target load has some pepper on it. I've done 50 rounds of it in one range visit, but 25-30 is really my average. Anything over that gets a little punishing for me.

You're in East TN DAdams..you should know I flunked out of UT Knox once. Never got the chance to go back and redeem myself, I got busy working instead. Now my "continuing education" centers around self defense shooting courses offered by APPS in Nashville. If you ever have the time and means, I highly recommend them. I learn so much everytime I take a class there.

Mr. Designer
September 4, 2007, 10:56 PM
My 360 with Crimson Trace Defender Laser Grip.

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=63005&d=1188233197

DAdams
September 5, 2007, 12:06 AM
Welcome to the Club. One of the Sc/Ti Air Lites I see. Very nice.

We are all light weights here. :cool:

Nothing like a .357 158 gr out of a J Frame snub to let you know you are alive. :D

craig_o
September 5, 2007, 08:31 PM
anyone have an opinion on how the 135 Speer SB .357s stack up against CorBon's PowRBall? Shootability, that is, unless you have some ballistics tests lying around :)

Mr. Designer
September 6, 2007, 12:03 PM
travl4me1 and jfh

My cylinder slid past the frame stop and caused a rub mark like the one on your 340. I called S&W and they told me to send it in and they would fix the finish. When I got it back they did the entire frame and tightened everything up. It took a couple weeks because they close for two months in the summer but it was worth the wait.

jfh
September 6, 2007, 03:34 PM
OK, based on the comments last week in the 642 thread, I ordered in three pair of their jeans.

One was the medium-weight 5-pocket jeans ($34.50), another was their heavier "F.O.M." work jeans ($39.50), and the third was the 'fire hose 5-pocket jeans' ($44.50).

The front pockets on all three are extra-deep (12"), and made of a material much more durable than on standard jeans. I can easily carry my 340 in a Mika square pocket in any of them. The medium-weights are not "loose fitting", so of course the 340-mika print is quite obvious (to me).

I would buy these jeans instead of other brands from now on for the better front pocket characteristics alone. Since Duluth Trading seems to be heavily-market-driven and works a niche market they might even be amenable to some design refinements oriented to CC needs.

Value--OK, neither good nor bad, I guess. (In my mind, jeans should still be costing $9.98).
Style--OK; work design, not trendy at all. No status here, unless its obverse.

Shipping was high, I thought--$14.95 from WI to MN. I do think they have promotional marketing, however, so one can probably get a good deal if they want them.

Mr. Designer Thanks for the finish / rub marks update. I may just send mine in after a few more months.


Jim H.

DAdams
September 6, 2007, 06:35 PM
Did you try any of the Columbia Landers?
Deep pocket with zipper behind the regular pocket. Great for CC and $29.
Unfortunately in FL it's cold enough to wear "jeans" about two days a year.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/dmadams/Lander.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/dmadams/P7260004-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/dmadams/P7260005.jpg

I took this pic with a 642 in a Mika round cut. It won't print even with the front pocket empty, let alone with a cell phone, keys etc.

pcmike
September 7, 2007, 06:44 AM
340CT or 642CT... that is the question... I can't make up my mind. The price difference is roughly $200-300 depending on where you end up purchasing either revolver. Someone want to help me out a little in the decision process? :)

DAdams
September 7, 2007, 10:34 AM
pcmike. Part of it is an emotional, aeshetic decision, here are most of the objective points.

If you get the 340 do you think someone like a wife or significant other will want it upon inspection?

If so get the 642 set them up with it then get yourself a 340. ;)

If you are the only one who will be in possession of said revolver go for the 340, particularly if you are going to pocket carry. If you are going to carry IWB or OWB and don't have any urge to possibly shoot .357 (.38 spl +P is adequate for personal protection that is for sure) then go for the X42 since 2 ounces on your belt and hip is not significant and you won't feel the difference. In the pocket that's 10%+ less weight and noticeable.

The 340 is more $$ primarily due to exotic metal alloy frame to reduce weight, the DLC coating and cover the cost of the Trijicon night sight.
With a set of CTs the night site is really not necessary unless the CT switch is off, or batteries are dead at an inopportune time (low light or night).

cpirtle
September 7, 2007, 10:43 AM
I don't know... my wife liked my 360 better than my 638 because of the weight difference (and she knows she can shoot 38's in a 357) - - guess I trained her too well..

Edit to add: spend the extra money on the 357 IMO, you have more options and a lighter pistol. Arguably the 357 should hold up better to consistent firing of full house 38's if that's what you choose to shoot all of the time.

pcmike
September 7, 2007, 03:07 PM
Well, I put in some emails last night on various models and it appears that the M&P 340CT is not available (so said one retailer) due to having issues with the finish. I don't know how true this is or not, but man that sucks as thats what I wanted. Anyone else here this?

Aside from that.. I was quoted $670 on 340PD HIVIZ and $550 on 642CT..

Brassman
September 7, 2007, 04:58 PM
DA is describing my situation. I had the 642 for about 2 and a half years. My wife got her CCW permit and said she wanted to carry that weapon in her purse. I was more than glad to let her, since the weapon would still be in the family and I got to purchase the M&P 340 for my pocket. Now everyone's happy...only cpirtle's wife seems to know more than my wife. I guess you are a good teacher....and that's what I do for a living.

DAdams
September 7, 2007, 05:09 PM
it appears that the M&P 340CT is not available (so said one retailer) due to having issues with the finish.

I heard this from an moderately reliable source. A friend of mine was told that by one of his LGS. The also told him they were only shipping a limited number to LEOs. Which is totally not true.

I think they are having some quality issues with finish but not on every one they make. Mine is fine, the one I am referring to here was fine and I even rubbed the heck out of with my finger to see if I could force any flaking or make blemishes. The DLC finish is not the prettiest thing to begin with and its claim to fame is non glare and scratch resistance.

There was one at my LGS earlier this week and I scooped it for a friend of mine. It is headed for NC. $699.

The price on the 642CT is reasonable. Figure at least $200 minimum for new 405s and they are usually more. That puts the 642 at $350. I give that deal a very good rating.

$670 on the 340PD seems good, Bud's is at $705.
Bud's is at $390 on a 442. and $559 for a 642 with CTs. Verifies a good price on your deal.

No M&P 340s at Buds.
None on Guns America

None on Gun Broker,....
Check this out a 340SS Talo.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=79990266#PIC
You would have to add CTs at $240.

I called Randy's where I bought mine. He said the have 8000 on order just to move to the top of the allocation list. He said they are coming in, in dribs and drabs.

They are around I would be diligent and keep calling around. You will find one if that is what you want.
I just found something even more rare than a M&P 340 yesterday but it took me 3 hours of calling around. It's part of the challenge and fun.

DAdams
September 7, 2007, 05:16 PM
Yep, mine too. DA is describing my situation.

I forced the 642CT on my wife so I could buy the 340. :D

"But honey that big ole 686 is just way too much gun for you. I got this one just for you":evil:.

DAdams
September 7, 2007, 09:57 PM
I don't know if there is exactly the test around you are seeking.

This one is interesting.

http://www.hipowersandhandguns.com/38%20Snub%20Ammo%20Test.htm

And this one on .357 mid power loads.

http://www.hipowersandhandguns.com/can_less_be_more.htm

You might ask Stephen Camp. He is one of the moderators.

mic214
September 11, 2007, 03:17 PM
Mind if I join the group? I carry my 340PD every day in either a Galco or Don Hume pocket holster. It is loaded with Speer, 135 grain .38spl +P Gold Dots. I bought mine used for $525.00. The original owner shot it only once and then promptly returned it for something less volatile. I was not sure of the "HI-Viz" front sight at first, but with my aging eyes, it sure stands out nicely for me. I have touched off exactly one cylinder load of full house .357 magnums out of her and, quite frankly, that was enough.....My hand was tingling for a while after that!!!

This is my set up:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/mic214/DSC_0331.jpg

These are not my pics, but I can attest to the fact that this is what happens when you touch off a .357 magnum round out of one of these little blasters (Shooting gloves are a must!):

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/mic214/357_fire.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/mic214/357_big_fire.jpg

Somebody once referred to these babies as "12 ounces of pure Titanium & Scandium evil" (or words close to that).... I think that is a pretty fair description!

DAdams
September 11, 2007, 04:25 PM
Welcome to the Club. I like the light pipes they definitely gather and focus the light well.

Nothing like full house .357 out of a snub to let you know you are alive.

Speer has a 135 gr .357 for short barrels. I bought some but haven't tried it yet.

I just like the weight of these hybrid/form factors. I don't really care if I ever put .357 through it, but it's nice to know I can.

Nice holsters and good pics.

"12 ounces of pure Titanium & Scandium Hellfire" Glad the M&P weighs 13.3. Just enough extra weight to take the edge off. Then again.

Brassman
September 21, 2007, 05:03 PM
I finally brought the M&P 340 home with me from the range yesterday. It was on layaway for 90 days. I paid it off a little early, since I was getting embarassed to shoot it because it was so dirty. There was so much lead build-up under the cylinder that it felt like a 30 lb. trigger. It probably has had around 1000 rounds of 148gr. BBWC through it so far and just a few of my 158gr LSWC in .357mag. After having it home with me for about 30 minutes, it was clean and the trigger pull was about 1/3 the pull before I cleaned all the crud out. A good dose of Hoppes #9 and it got put to bed in its new K&D pocket defender. I really think I am going to like carrying it and my P3AT can stay at home, except when I'm riding my bike. It nearly disappears in a jersey pocket. LONG LIVE THE M&P 340!!

DAdams
September 22, 2007, 05:18 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/dmadams/P9110030.jpg

Isn't it a sweet shooter! It's my favorite snub (except when I'm on the 642 Club Thread). :D Then, well you know.

I was at the range today. No revolvers, today was auto day. I was exploring the cases and they have, count them, not one, but two M&P NIB in stock.
That's the good news. The bad news is they have them at $799. and this store has a reputation for no negotiating.

I hooked a buddy of mine up to a new one last week for $699. :cool:

fastbolt
September 22, 2007, 05:46 PM
As far as the weight difference between my MP340 and 642 ...

I was a little surprised that the MP340 did, indeed, feel lighter in my pockets than my 642.

I expected less of a noticeable difference regarding the advertised approx 1.7 ounce weight difference, especially since I replaced the Bantam grips with a set of standard rubber Boot-type grips (w/screw).


I guess the sleeved barrel and light weight yoke assembly of my MP340 offers just enough less weight to actually be felt in my pants pockets.

Not so much of a felt difference when carried in jacket pockets, though.

I've decided to make this MP340 my frequent range training J-frame, and see if I can shoot it apart. ;)

I've noticed that after shooting my MP340, even with .38 +P, that shooting my other J-frames seems downright pleasant and enjoyable, by comparison. Sort of how my 3913 seems sort of mild after shooting my 4040PD, or my G26 feels light recoiling after shooting my G27.

Of course, I'm going to limit my use of Magnum ammunition in the little gun, since the 100+ rounds of Magnum loads I've fired through it have been less than pleasant ... and I'm having an increasingly difficult time getting any of the other instructors to shoot it when I give them Magnum ammunition to shoot in it.

Tejano
September 23, 2007, 05:38 AM
I recently acquired a used 340pd Hi-Viz. Have not had a chance to shoot it yet. I just found out about steel cylinder 340MPs, which brought a question to my mind. Is it possible to buy a steel cylinder and swap it out with my Ti cylinder?

DAdams
September 23, 2007, 05:05 PM
Fastbolt-
Regarding weight. That difference is only 10% and doesn't sound like much I know. Put a M&P 340 side by side with a X42 and heft the X42 then the 340 and you would swear it weighed 2 ounces or more less than the X42. A miracle of modern science? Nope just feels that way. Big deal in the pocket of the trousers or shorts for sure and certain.

I've decided to make this MP340 my frequent range training J-frame, and see if I can shoot it apart.

Good luck, what a worthwhile and challenging endeavor. How does the sacrificial flame piece look on yours with 1000+ rounds?
Any cutting noticeable?

Tejano-
Great question but I have no idea. That would be worthy of a call to S&W customer service and ask if it doable and if they would sell a 340 cylinder??
Get back with us if you find out.

Brassman
September 23, 2007, 11:08 PM
I lucked up and got mine for $595. I get a 15% discount from the normal range store prices with my membership. I really feel lucky and I love shooting the M&P. For me, it seems to be more pointable. I guess it's just that the front sight comes into focus so much quicker than the sight on my 642. The factory grip fits my hand better than the factory grip on the 642. My wife is carrying the 642 in her purse with a monogrip. She really likes the feel of the monogrip and it give her a lot better contol than the old factory grip.

DA, what is the empty weight of that Seacamp and what kind of money does one run? I have always liked the look of those little autos and didn't even know that they made one in .380. That might be another possible purchase down the road if that mag release and I can get along after my being so used to the thumb release on all my other autos. Are you comfortable with it?

DAdams
September 24, 2007, 08:39 AM
That is an outstanding price for the 340. You did very well indeed.
The sighting "system" is dot on, pardon the pun. That big round circle in the ramp cutout is hard to miss and POI and POA for me at 6 yards is right where it should be.
Let's see some pics in the pocket KD holster please. Particularly since it's all cleaned up.
Did you notice any flame cutting to the tab in the frame after 1000 rounds?

The Seecamp is 11.45 ounces empty with magazine. I'm not enamoured at all with the magazine release at the bottom. I have not found a fast way to release, drop and reload. I think this thing falls into one of two scenario applications in a gun fight.

A) It's a bug to the 340 (or other favorite carry).
B) The "event" is over in 7 rounds or less because I don't see being able to reload it quickly and "on the fly".

This frame/weight in a 380 is a mutha and brings new meaning to power to weight/ratio. I have to say that it is not fun to shoot barehanded and not for the faint of heart. Following 24 rounds I was done. The trigger guard whacks the inside knuckle of the index finger. Many on the Seecamp forum recommend practicing with a bandaid on the trigger finger. It is going to take some time and practice to attain mastery of this bugger.

It definitely falls into the shoot little carry often category. If you want to wait a year you can get one for $795. There are a few used ones kicking around occassionally on the Seecamp forum. I found mine in stock at a dealer in KS and paid, $895. You may want to avoid the wait and perhaps the banged up finger and try the .32. They are about half the price and available in stock with some dealers or about 90 days direct from Seecamp or Seecamp resellers, Ghen or theirishguard (Tom).

Larry Seecamp owner operator is active on the Seecamp Forum and feels a gun should be ready to go right out of the box with no break-in required. Admits he doesn't have a life other than his family, product and company and even gives out his cell phone number to answer personal questions or address concerns. Warranty is stated as one year, but seems to be lifetime on workmanship and material. Now that is service!

A Seecamp is a pistol disguised as art, or is it a sculpture acting as a pistol?

Good investment I think, particularly the way stainless keeps going up.

jfh
September 24, 2007, 12:30 PM
(Note that this post is an edit of comments I just posted on the 640 thread.) I have an M&P 340 as my carry gun, a 640 as an alternate carry gun and for for reload development, and a Model 65 / 3" barrel for other carry and load development.

I want to add comments on a couple of issues us j-frame carry devotees can think about.

It makes sense to choose a given factory PD load and then do a training program to get good with that round. After extensive reading on the internet about 2"-barrel revolvers / j-frames / alloy frames, I decided the max load I would carry was the Speer 38+P 135-gr Short Barrel load, and that I would start with the FC 110-gr 38 Spl load. The FC 110-gr. standard-pressure load was a good choice--I could fire that round reasonably effectively from the get-go even though the 340 experience was a real eye-opener. (My other revolver at the time was an N-frame .357)

Practice ammo cost: The cost of factory ammo is $1.00 per round. I turned to my reloading interests. Speer had previously published data about duplicating that 38+P / 135-gr PD round with reloads.

Using the Speer 135-gr SBJHP bullet, you can build 'replica rounds' with the Speer data for about 25 cents each--or nominally 1/4 the cost of the factory ammo. I further explored the recipes, and I developed a variant using a 140-gr. LTC bullet. That round can be loaded for about 12 cents a round, if you buy your lead bullets from the right place.

Over the last two months, I've shot about 3,000 rounds through the three guns; about 80% of them have come out of the 640. I have recipes for two calibers (38 and 357), three bullets (Speer 135gr-JHP, 140LTC, and a 140LRNFP) and four powders. All these recipes provide a cartridge that feels nominally identical to the Speer factory round.

If you're interested in pursuing practice ammo that will replicate the shooting experience of this Speer PD round, see this link: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=304225

In the course of doing this load-development project, several things happened:

1. I simply became adept at using the DAO trigger. My gunsmith had done a smoothing job, but I had to learn the trigger--and a lot of 'thoughful' shooting enable me to do that.

2. My dominant shooting hand became stronger and appropriately calloused. I now can run 125-150 rounds through a test session, with no real soreness.

3. By doing the load development routine, I ended up shooting less-powerful rounds that allowed me to acclimate to the recoil in all the guns. Now I can shoot five of the replica loads, reload, and shoot five again in the 340 without undue discomfort.

4. I am feeling totally familiar with the j-frames, and I have gained personal confidence in their use.

Jim H.

Tejano
September 24, 2007, 06:17 PM
I called S&W Customer Support Center today concerning the cylinder swap. The first rep I spoke with (didn't catch his name) said it can be done. But it was not a part they had in stock yet. I forgot to ask him if a 640 cylinder assembly would work. So I called again and spoke with Jeff. He said a 640 cylinder would work, it would just require fitting to align the cylinders and the extractor.

20nickels
September 26, 2007, 12:02 AM
Dadams; "Glad the M&P weighs 13.3. Just enough extra weight to take the edge off."

Soooo, Mr. rollyeye's. Post #3 in this thread (my query about the metallurgy , and extra carry weight of the cylinder) wasn't such a silly question after all? :neener:

DAdams
September 26, 2007, 10:41 AM
Soooo, Mr. rollyeye's. Post #3 in this thread (my query about the metallurgy , and extra carry weight of the cylinder) wasn't such a silly question after all?

I never thought it was. An ounce makes a big difference in the pocket. In a holster on a belt around the waist, not so much.

:rolleyes: :D Two dynamics at work. 360 Durability/longevity on the cylinder: Scandium Alloy/Titanium/Stainless Steel
Weight Empty: 12 oz.

And recoil management with full house 357 loads.

I was about ready to purchase one of these when I got word that the 340 was coming out. I had read enough regarding recoil, crimp jump and exotic metal failure to be a bit leary of the Ti/Sc but not leary enough to stop me from buying one. :rolleyes: I just wouldn't have frequently put any .357s through it.
My sole purpose was to find something light in the pocket with some heat. The M&P 340 with 135 Speer GoldDot or 148 gr BB for short barrels certain qualifies there for sure. I like the sighting system on the M&P also and the DLC coating.

It's the perfect blending of form, fit and function. It just took two interrations to get it right.

20nickels
September 26, 2007, 11:34 AM
I considered at one time adding a steel cylinder and crane to one of these lightweights in order to add that much extra weight. Expensive proposition, yes. Worth it? I may still do it on a larger Scandium pistol.

Tejano
September 26, 2007, 02:27 PM
I considered at one time adding a steel cylinder and crane to one of these lightweights in order to add that much extra weight. Expensive proposition, yes. Worth it?


The S&W rep I spoke with recently said the 640 cylinders were $129, the fitting of the cylinder was $60 and shipping was $14. I have seen new 640 cylinders for about $20 less. If you can do your own fitting and find a good used cylinder it might not be cost prohibitive.

Brassman
September 29, 2007, 12:12 PM
I took the old M&P back to the range Thurs. armed with only my .357mags and a few factory versions. I sent 15 of mine downrange and only 5 of the factory rounds. I had to cut the session short after that. Guess why?.....the webbing of my right had began to feel funny. I'll be back for more later, just not 20 rounds in a row. The range officer asked me if I was done already. I told him I had somewhere to be...er, "that's all I can stand for one day"....something like that. Where are all those light wadcutters I made to practice with?:confused:

DAdams
September 29, 2007, 03:35 PM
I took the old M&P back to the range Thurs. armed with only my .357mags.....Where are all those light wadcutters I made to practice with?

Some day I am going down that road and I suspect the results will be the same. I have this phantasy that if I hold the 340 in the "phat position" :scrutiny: I won't have any problems. :D I still have the SGD 135 357 for short barrel on deck for the next range session and the BB Standard Pressure 158s 20C.

I know my hand sure met its match with the LWS 380. Something about the power to weight ratio eventually catches up with all handguns as the envelope is pushed to its limit.

Thanks for the report. I hear weight lifting gloves help.

mavracer
October 4, 2007, 12:01 AM
ok I'm in just bought a m&p340 ct tonite paid w/the card and faxed my dealers FFL.now the wwwwwaaaaaiiiiiiiiiitttttttttttt.the cost was $767 after shipping and transfer fee.

DAdams
October 4, 2007, 12:04 AM
Welcome to The Club. That's an excellent price. Do they have any more in stock?

The demand seemingly exceeds the supply these days.

Don't forget to post pics, let us know which holster you get and we really like range reports.

I think you will really like it.

Don't forget to get the free range bag from S&W once you have your receipt.

mavracer
October 4, 2007, 12:11 AM
thanks,don't know if they have more.will probably take over my 442s spot in my uncle mikes pocket holster.going to try remmi golden sabers.have shot them in my american derringer and while brisk they aren't painful.

Nematocyst
October 4, 2007, 06:31 AM
Yeah.

I know myself well enough to know that
I'm prob'ly gonna buy one of these eventually ... :scrutiny:

I mean, it eats the same rnds
as the 65 & 1894C,
not to mention the .38 spl
for the 642.

I'd put a set of
full Hogue monogrips on it,
but that's just me ...

http://www.smith-wesson.com/wcsstore/SmWesson/upload/images/firearms/163061_large.jpg

DAdams
October 4, 2007, 09:51 PM
Nem-
Thanks for stopping by. M&P 340 with Hogue Monogrips yep. Not the one you posted in the pic. That doesn't have the stainless cylinder. Despite the fact it's a tad lighter. Also doesn't have nite sights. That's the little devil that jumps crimp with the light .357s. The M&P doesn't have "the fine print" on the barrel.
Almost the same but not the same. Also about a $100 less for the M&P.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/dmadams/P8050029-1.jpg

Tifosi
October 4, 2007, 11:34 PM
Mine started as a 340PD but I kept on having to return it to S&W because the titanium cylinder would chip on the front side, three times I returned it and they would new cylinder on it, to the range and it would chip again. This was shooting 158Gr FMJ. The last time I had them put the cylinder on from the M&P black stainless and no problems nor due I notice the 1 oz. increase in weight. Put CT 405 on it almost two years ago, they are great.

Nematocyst
October 5, 2007, 12:41 AM
Thanks for that clarification, DA.

I wasn't paying close enough attention on the SW web site.
Not sure I fully understood the differences. Now I get it.
Here's the specs page for the M&P. (http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&productId=53911&tabselected=tech&isFirearm=Y&parent_category_rn=)

Nem

http://www.smith-wesson.com/wcsstore/SmWesson/upload/images/firearms/163072_large.jpg

Nematocyst
October 5, 2007, 01:35 AM
Man, just comparing those two images - the one on SW site and DA's with full Hogues -
I like the way this revolver looks an order of magnitude (power of 10) better with those full Hogues.

Very similar to the proportions of my 642 with the same grips.

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=48743&d=1165048785

No doubt: not as concealable, but significantly more controllable,
and just better looking due to those more symmetric proportions.

And that black finish ... oh, la ...

IMO, of course.
YMMV.

Dang, I'm getting interested in one of these.
Probably a better match for my 65 than my 642
since I could shoot .38 and .357 with both and the 1894C ...

Uh, oh ... :uhoh:

Tejano
October 5, 2007, 05:36 AM
Mine started as a 340PD but I kept on having to return it to S&W... The last time I had them put the cylinder on from the M&P black stainless ..

Tifosi would you mind posting pictures of your hybrid? I am very interested in converting my 340PD.

Hiatus
October 5, 2007, 09:46 AM
I've had a 340SC for a few years now that sits comfortably in either a Kramer pocket holster or ankle holster. I've been thinking of having some trigger work done, but I am not sure it's possible or even adviseable. Been thinking of having the trigger pull reduced to something closer to what my duty weapon is (Sig 229). I skimmed this thread and found some mention of the subject (hopefully I didn't miss anything), but was hoping for more information. Anybody do anything like this? Opinions either way?

Lightsped
October 5, 2007, 11:25 AM
Ok, without going through and reading the whole thread, can someone tell me what the difference(s) is between a 340PD, Scandium 340, and a MP340? Also, what are some good places to get a MP340 and what kind of price is to be expected? I am interested in the regular MP340, not the CT version.

Thanks

Tejano
October 5, 2007, 01:21 PM
The 340PD has the scandium frame and the Titanium cylinder and weighs in at a little over 11oz. The 340MP has a scandium frame a steel cylinder and weighs in at a little over 13 oz. You can fire no less than a 120 gr bullets in the 340pd; it says so right on the barrel. Both 340s have scandium frames so I guess a 340sc is probably just a pd or an mp.

DAdams
October 5, 2007, 02:48 PM
hit most of the major points. In my mind the big difference is:

Tritium night sights with the big dot in the ramp. I find this a better sight acquisition system day or night compared to the blade or light pipe.

Stainless steel cylinder, with no grain limitation on the .357 load.

The M&P 340 is 1.3 oz heavier than the PD which provides a bit more mass to absorb recoil yet 1.7 ounces lighter than a X42 (15 oz) which is nice for pocket carry. No funky Atomic Energy Commission Logo on the starboard side. In fact the PD looks like a billboard on the right side.

340PD MSRP $988
M&P 340 845

$$143 less for what I consider a superior revolver. That $ delta will hold up in the real world too.

http://www.knightshooting.com/

These guys have two in stock I just called them. No CTs.
I think they had $799 on them. They will do a transfer to an out of state FFL.

Tifosi
October 8, 2007, 12:09 AM
Here you go Tejano, my 340PD with SS Cylinder. As you can see its no safe queen.

Tifosi

Tejano
October 10, 2007, 10:31 AM
Thanks, Tifosi. I think the 340 looks better all black. May I ask approximately how many rds you have fired?

On another note, 640 cylinders are plentiful and easy to get as opposed to an M&P cylinder. Does anyone know how difficult it would be for me to fit a new SS cylinder into my 340? Or would this be something better left for a gunsmith?

Tifosi
October 10, 2007, 10:50 AM
Tejano,

I fired approx. 700 rounds through it, 300 with the titanium cylinders (3 of them) and 400 since. Mine was a warranty issue so it cost me nothing and the SS cylinder was their suggestion. S&W was prompt each time it took a week from when I sent it till I had it back.

mavracer
October 10, 2007, 09:22 PM
Man this thing shoots great.Shot 40 rounds of 125 golden sabers,they kick hard but not painful and realatively controlable.this group was shot offhand at 15 yards.

trigeezer
October 14, 2007, 10:35 PM
Thanks for all the great info on this gun. I am about to buy one and I have a question. The salesman at my gunshop said that it is not a good idea to buy a .357mag and then shoot tons of .38 ammo through it. He said that it is hard on the gun. He said, of course, that you can do it... But if you think that .357 ammo will be too much recoil for you, then don't buy the .357, and instead buy the .38 model. I like the idea of being able to use both, but don't want to damage the gun. Any feedback will be helpful. Thanks.

mavracer
October 14, 2007, 11:58 PM
The salesman at my gunshop said that it is not a good idea to buy a .357mag and then shoot tons of .38 ammo through it.
the only problem you'll have is if you shoot a lot of 38s through it there will be a fouling ring in the chambers.it could pose a problem if it would get bad enough that the .357 were hard to seat all the way in the chambers,it may even cause a pressure spike.the good news is if you keep it clean its not ever a problem.I get around it by reloading. I use light loads in .357 cases.

DAdams
October 15, 2007, 12:05 AM
then shoot tons of .38 ammo through it. He said that it is hard on the gun.

Perhaps tons is the operative word. I have never heard such a proposition put forth, but hey I'm relatively new to the sport.

Guess I could get S&W to replace the cylinder 5000 rounds from now.;)

I would like to get a definition of "tons"?
Perhaps I will post this over on the S&W site and see what comes of it.

Brassman
October 15, 2007, 12:16 AM
Shooting a couple of thousand rounds of .38 through a .357 will cause the powder ring and cause the .357 round to not go into the chambers as easily as they should, but I have never heard of .38 rounds damaging cylinders beyond that! A little Hoppes, or your chosen solvent, and some brushing should return the cylinders to their original state, though. I have put many thousands of .38 rounds through all of my .357's (I have 3 of them) and all I've ever had to do is clean them up to return them to normal operational condition.

DAdams
October 15, 2007, 12:26 AM
The salesman at my gunshop said that it is not a good idea to buy a .357mag and then shoot tons of .38 ammo through it.
Another Urban Legend debunked....thanks Brassman.

Where do these people come up with this stuff. Now if he would have just caveated the rest of the story. ;) We wouldn't be wasting bandwidth on this hooey.

jfh
October 15, 2007, 01:01 AM
I finally got a chrono running to test the Speer 38+P 'replica loads' reloading project I've been working on. While most of that testing so far has been with a 640, I finally put five of the Speer factory 38+P-135gr loads under the chronograph with my M&P 340.

Results for four rounds: (I missing setting the chrono for the first shot.)

Average of 911 fps, with an ES of 8.7 and SD of 3.8

Since Speer specs this at about 860 from a nominal 2" barrel, I'm more than satisfied. Accuracy was excellent: using the CT-405 sights from a benchrest, I had a group about 3/8"w x 1/2" tall at 15 yards. I have NOT checked POA with the 'regular' sights simply because my eyes fail to help me get good groups with them.

of the Speer reload recipes in 38+P for this bullet, the one that "feels best" is AA#5--and that averaged 851 out of the 640. Of those Speer recipes, it looks like Power Pistol is the one most like to hit factory velocities--and that is also the one that feels "least like" the factory round in perceived recoil. It has a much sharper impulse to the recoil.

Jim H.

DAdams
October 15, 2007, 08:32 AM
I'm more than satisfied. Accuracy was excellent

Those are excellent results. I would be thrilled with that velocity and accuracy with a reload. Is that considered a "low flash" powder like the Buffalo Bore. Maybe that promotional aspect is just hype. Do you think you know what they use for their load? How do your results stack up against BB?

Thanks for the information.

jfh
October 15, 2007, 11:16 AM
Just to be clear, DAdams, the stats in bold are from the factory load. The one reload that I am most enamored with, using AA#5 powder, averaged 851 fps in the 640--which is close enough to the 860 fps Speer would like to see with this bullet for effective expansion. Speer says that the Power Pistol recipe will duplicate the factory velocities--we shall see.

While these first tests are hardly conclusive, it does appear that the 340 might be 20 or 30 fps faster than the 640. The factory round averaged 880+ from the 640, but with a great ES and SD.

The reloads--mostly shot out of the 640, typically show the same kind of grouping the factory rounds do, albeit at different POAs. The load that hasn't been tested on the chrono yet that I am most curious about is the V.N350 load--that one is similar to the 340 results, and also to the same POA.

These short-barreled j-frames are capable of excellent accuracy if the shooter is up to it.

Various rounds were chrono'd just prior to dusk--and the only powder producing much flash was Power Pistol. However, I am not up on those issues yet, really.

The bottom line is, with the reloads I can spend 23 cents a shot if I use the Speer GDSB135JHP bullet, and about 11 cents a shot if I use a 140-gr. LTC bullet. That's a good savings that can be put to more practice.

Jim H.

trigeezer
October 15, 2007, 11:23 AM
Thanks, everyone, for the feedback on my question about shooting .38s through a .357. I am a novice at this stuff, and your comments were helpful.

Snowbandit
October 17, 2007, 01:38 AM
Apparently the 340 M&P is available again! I've had mine on order since April and my local dealer called about 10:AM this morning to ask if I still wanted it. Of course......... it will be here Friday. Then, about two hours later I got an e-mail from Randy's Hunting Center telling me they now had them back in stock and asking if I wanted one from them. Bad news though........ price went up to $669.00 but, that includes shipping to your dealer and a free knife.

DAdams
October 17, 2007, 11:19 PM
Thanks for the update. Price for a 340 and the $$ to benefit ratio makes it a a real winner in my book. It's my favorite modern wheel gun.

colt1903
October 19, 2007, 04:45 PM
Review of M&P 340 CT with photos on my blog under the posting entitled "Thoughts on Concealed Carry". The blog can be found at www.randysrangereport.blogspot.com.

DAdams
October 20, 2007, 12:34 AM
That is a fair assessment of the 340. If it were six rounds it would be qualite superior. As it is, it's a "26" and I wouldn't disagree.

Great Blog site. Excellent reporting and historical information. You have excellent tast in handguns.

Why beat yourself up with .357 when +P is there, I agree.

Today was the first day I ranged out some .357 SGD 135 gr for short barrel. I really thought it would be more brutalizing than it was. The follow-ups were reasonable and recoil lift was no more than 1.5 inches in assessing a fellow shooter.
I checked for crimp jump and none was evidenced.

I am approaching a hundred and fifty rounds and am still thrilled. ;)

Thanks for reporting in at the 340 Club and we hope to hear from you often.

colt1903
October 20, 2007, 12:42 AM
Thanks Mr. Adams. The three .357's I did shoot were Cor-Bon's an aside from being painful I was surprised at the accuracy.

Nematocyst
October 20, 2007, 03:27 AM
Today was the first day I ranged out some .357 SGD 135 gr for short barrel. I really thought it would be more brutalizing than it was. The follow-ups were reasonable and recoil lift was no more than 1.5 inches in assessing a fellow shooter.So, as long as we're discussing shooting .357 mags in an ultralight weight revolver,
maybe we should spend some time on technique.
(Relevant to .38 spl +p, too, but even more so with .357 mag.)

DA and others, what tips can you offer those shooting these ultralight, punk mules to tame their recoil ferocity?

It seems that technique would be especially important, including attention to subtle details of grip (including hand/finger placement), muscle contraction v. relaxation (how stiff should one's arm be in order to best dissipate recoil & lift), flinch control, etc.

Any thoughts?

Nem

Mr. Designer
October 20, 2007, 03:34 AM
Jerry Miculek shows how to hold a small J-frame revolver.
http://shootingusa.com/PRO_TIPS/MICULEK2/miculek2.html

hillaryisabum
October 20, 2007, 08:47 PM
Went to what has been "called" the world's largest gunshow today in Tulsa,Ok. Searched long and hard only to not find one. Saw only one M&P 340but was set on the laser. Left kinda sad but called a local dealer and they fixed me right up. $812.00 plus tax. I don't know if that was a great price but I AM HAPPY! Are they hard to find???? Dealer said they had just got this one in last week. Looking forward to shooting it next week and must say the posts I read on this awesome site were partly responsible for me deciding to buy one. Thanks and best regards................

jfh
October 20, 2007, 09:03 PM
hillaryisabum: Are you an experienced shooter--revolver shooter? If not, I recommend you start out with a light load with the M&P340. The first PD round I selected was the Federal 38Spl (NOT +P) 110-gr. load. That's livable as you learn to shoot this pistol. I've now worked up to the GDSB135-gr. 38+P factory PD round, and that's where I will stay.

I suggest this based not only on my own experience, but on hearing about a gun club friend who just picked up a used M&P340--truly LNIB. It was traded in after the original buyer shot one cylinderful of .357s in it--that's five rounds, and he got rid of it.

AFAICT, you got a very good price on your package--was that with the S&W-logo CT grips (i.e., from S&W), or do they have the CT logo (installed by the dealer, I would think)? Doesn't matter--they're the same product, but the former has a bit more penache, some think.

At any rate, congrats on your purchase.

Jim H.

DAdams
October 20, 2007, 09:28 PM
DA and others, what tips can you offer those shooting these ultralight, punk mules to tame their recoil ferocity?

Nem-Very good question and I would like to get back to this interrogative more in -depth when ample time permits. I will say this. Those of us who only recently have been shooting the lightweight J Frames, 360s and 340s have a couple benefits that our predecessors did not have. Specialty ammunitions like the .357 short barrel and BB products. It also doesn't hurt to have a handfull of Hogue Monogrip to reign in "the beast".
Maybe the hype had me expecting a crushing blow, a handshake with Hulk Hogan or something akin. It just wasn't that bad compared to +P.
The accuracy was good, and follow-up shots were expeditious. I'll post a picture of two shooters, myself and a newbie to revolvers and first time shooter of a M&P 340. Excellent accuracy with the big dot Trijicons at 25 feet. The 340 stacks like my 642 so once you get used to that its the same drill. Aim, get to the stack point, adjust aim and fire. Pics to follow.
Next...back to the 405CTs with the same round. I imagine FR and recovery will be a different story. BTW there was no crimp jump with the .357 SGD 135s. Checked two cylinders.
You want brutal? We went from 340 to PM9 with Plus P to Seecamp 380. The newbie quit the Seecamp after two rounds of 95 gr SGD. I lasted one magazine of 6 + 1 and was done, now that IS brutal.

HIAB-
Welcome aboard.
That's a good price for a CT rigged 340. They are somewhat scarce but they are out there and with some patience I see no reason that one could not land one in 30 days with some diligence. My LGS is due another soon.
jfh offers sound counsel. Start with standard .38spl and work up. I don't feel anything greater than Plus P is necessary for personal defense. Shooting the .357 rounds is more an educational exercise than anything.

they're the same product, but the former has a bit more penache, some think.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/dmadams/P5210023.jpg

hillaryisabum
October 20, 2007, 09:40 PM
JFH, I have been around guns my whole life but I would not call myself a marksman. I have shot my 642 with +P ammo on two different occasions and so your ammo advise is strongly noted. Did not even buy any .357 ammo today for that reason. Will shoot it with non +P at the range to save a few dollars. I am sure I will eventually have to try the "big" stuff someday. Kinda broke after this purchase anyway. If it had not have been for this forum I would NOT have known about the S&W logo being on the laser grip only if it were bought from Smith & Wesson that way and this gun does have them. I made sure of that. Thanks for your advise, Richard.

jfh
October 20, 2007, 10:18 PM
Good enough, hillaryisabum. As I have commented here in various forums, this is my first foray into serious revolver PD shooting. I even bought a 640 for additional practice and (re)load development. However, like you, I'm generally a lifetime shooter.

I've now shot about 3500 rounds through the 640, and perhaps 450 or so through the 340, testing various 38+P recipes to find a "replica load" for the Speer 38+P 135-gr PD load. Today I finally got a chance to do the first comprehensive chrono testing of these loads--4 powders, 3 bullets, two cartridges (also a "357 lite" replica load for that Speer 38+P load)--and it is paying off.

I still have to analyse data, but it looks like one can build practice ammo for about 11 cents a round with a 140LTC bullet, or about 23 cents a round using the Speer GDSB 135-gr JHP bullets. It will feel exactly like the factory round--which, around here, costs about $1.00 a round.

More on this topic later--three hours with a chrono today has left me with brain fade.

Jim H.

DAdams
October 23, 2007, 11:58 AM
I finally had an opportunity to put some .357 Speer Gold Dot 135 gr for short barrel through the 340.

This was a much anticipated event and one that had built up an almost legendary expectation.

Would it feel like my hand was slammed in a car door? :eek:A sledge hammering? :uhoh:

Maybe it was the round but I found it not unlike the .38 Plus P. I stood off to the side of my fellow shooter to observe the muzzle rise and it appeared to be no more than two inches, perhaps less. I doubt that follow-up rounds would be effected significantly compared to the SGD 135 plus P.

I checked two cylinders for "crimp jump" and there was none. All five rounds in two cylinders launched successfully.

The next test will include putting the CT 405 grips back on, but with the Hogue monogrips the recoil was very manageable and not painful. I would not hestitate to make the GD 357 135 gr for short barrels a carry load.

Your experience may vary.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/dmadams/PA230008.jpg

This was 25 feet with the .357. The Tritium sighting dot on this is right on when the shooter does their part.

We also ran 30 Remington UMC 38. spl 130 gr FMJ as a warm-up.
I think this puts the total round count on the 340 at about 350 including standard pressure, plus p and now .357.

hillaryisabum
October 24, 2007, 07:45 PM
Going to the range on Friday to shoot my new 340. There was no Speers .357GDHP 135gr. short barrel ammo to be had in Tulsa so I bought some Speers 357 125gr. "law enforcement". Will there be a difference in recoil of that ammo vs. the stuff I could not find? Bought some hopps "elite" to clean the gun. Any cleaning advice?Thanks in advance, Richard.

DAdams
October 24, 2007, 09:43 PM
Hoppes Elite is what S&W recommends on the exterior DLC finish of the 340. It is a preservative, anticorrosive, and lubricant. You may want to use a cleaner for swabbing out the barrel. Outers Tri-Care that comes with the cleaning kits seems to be aggressive enough for the barrel and cylinder yet not harm the finish. I try to keep it in the barrel only though. I will sparingly use Breakfree on a swab or patch to run through the cylinder and barrel for cleaning.

Shooting. I would work my way up. Get some .38 spl, Winchester or Remington FMJ from WalMart and put some of it through first to get the feel.

Get some 38 spl Plus P, bulk 125 gr semi JKTD Remington boxes of 100 are around or, if you can find the Speer Gold Dot 135 in 38 spl Plus P that works, you may find it to be your favorite carry round.

Try some .357 of any kind. Winchester or Remington from Wally is fine although perhaps not the optimal carry round if you decide the .357 to your liking. Federal Premium Hydra-Shok may be around in 158 gr JHP at you LGS, I save that for my L Frame.

Again the revolver is rated for 38 spl, 38 spl plus P and .357 with no rating restriction. :evil: You may find the later "stout". Someone said like slamming your hand with a baseball bat. Speer 125 LE, I have no experience with them, but they won't hurt your 340 so give them a shot.

On the .357s you may want to shoot 3, check the 4th and 5th round for "crimp jump". It is the bullet seperating from the casing which could cause the cylinder to "jam" or "lock-up". Shoot, the 4th and see if the 5th is still ok. This seems to be prevalent on the Sc/Ti series as opposed to the 340 with the stainless cylinder and two more ounces to "shock absorb". I have not heard this reported on a M&P 340.

This will not happen with any of the .38 or .38 plus P. I have tried many versions of those manufactured by many vendors.


Let us know what you think.

Brassman
October 25, 2007, 02:16 PM
Does anyone shoot mainly lead rounds from their M&P 340? If you do, do you have a problem with lead build-up on the cylinder spindle which causes the cylinder to nearly bind?

I shoot mainly lead and about every 200 rounds or so I have to take the cylinder out and clean the spindle. If I fail to do this the cylinder will eventually bind so much that the trigger pull is probably over 20 lbs. It's no real problem to clean, but I was wondering if anyone else had the same problem. As soon as I clean the spindle, relubricate and put the cyliner back in the weapon everything returns to normal.

I have begun using wadcutters instead of heavier LSWC rounds. The change in bullet weights and lengths seems to have helped the problem, but it's still present. Any suggestions as to the cause or cure, or both would be appreciated.

mavracer
October 25, 2007, 04:40 PM
brassman,
I don't shoot lead in my M&P340,but I've had that problem with other guns I don't think its uncommon.I started using rainier plated bullets, they're not that much more than cast.

DAdams
October 25, 2007, 10:42 PM
No experience along those lines.

jfh
October 25, 2007, 11:18 PM
Brassman: I've been shooting both JHPs and Lead (140LTC-.357, 140LRNFP-.358) from my M&P 340. I have had the binding you refer to. However, I had not traced it to lead per se yet; just to shooting 'grunge.'

My 340 shows no sign of spitting with the lead bullets of either diameter, either. I've been successful in freeing up the cylinder operation simply with B&C gun scrubber, followed by Elite oil or CLP, without removing the cylinder.

I'm a relative novice with revolvers, with no real long-term experience. The binding has not shown up yet in either my M60/3" or the 686P/4", nor on the 640/2".

Update, a day later: After shooting about 50 rounds of lead through my 340 yesterday, I noted some binding--and deliberately did not clean it. Today I resumed my chrono tests--and throughout twenty rounds of lead reloads, the binding progressively worsened to the point of being unable to pull the trigger. I'll clean it tonight--and I think I will call S&W about this on Monday. I don't understand why the 340 should be binding, but the SS guns (640, 60) show no such problem at all. I know the 640 has about 250 rounds, maybe 300 through it, and the 60, perhaps 100 to 125.

FWIW, a good powder for reloading to 38+P or 357 Mag GDSB135 specs looks like Vitavourhi 3N37. I did some development runs today, and that powder clocked in at 916 to 1012--those are averages for a cylinderful--with an SD as low as 5.3 in the 640. FWIW, my 640 and 340 average just over 900 with the factory 38+P GDSB135JHP PD loads, and I note that Speer thinks that the optimum GDSB velocities are about 850-1000 fps.

Still analyzing the data.

Jim H.

Brassman
October 26, 2007, 08:44 AM
I'll try the gun scrubber. I have not been using any since I wasn't sure how the finish would react to it. I have another brand than B&C, but I'm at school right now and can't think of the manufacturer. It sprays on and dries nearly instantly. I used it on my 642 and it took the clear coat finish off. That's the reason that I've stayed away from it on the 340. When I get time I'll pick up a can of the B&C scrubber and give it a try. Thanks Jim.

jfh
October 26, 2007, 11:03 AM
When I bought the M&P340, I called S&W to confirm cleaning products, and I verified the Hoppe's "Elite" product line. I don't remember asking them about Gun Scrubber, though--and my stuff is about ten to fifteen years old, so it probably is not the latest formulation. However, AFAICT it has had absolutely no effect on the DLC finish.

For the cylinder binding, I carefullly dribble it on to the rod/bushings at the front, lean it up, and let it sit to seep down the shaft. Work the cylinder, reapply as needed, then finish up with minimal amounts of CLP dropped on the bushings and shaft at the front.

I did it this way because I had not figured out how to remove the cylinder from the shaft yet. Removing the crane assembly is easy, of course, and I've done that when I want to better clean the cylinder exterior.

I tend to be one of those 'slob' types when it comes to cleaning--I spray Gun Scrubber in and on the frame and go to work with the nylon brush, followed by patches with CLP. I usually use the soft / cheaper brush, but I've found the Brownell's "extra firm" nylon brush works better at the barrel, forcing cone, etc.

Or, I use the Hoppe's cleaner. Since I've shot more lead recently, I also bought the Elite bore gel, but I have no opinion of that yet. Fortunately, leading has not really been an issue, I think.

I'll get around to posting a picture of the 340 one of these days. The finish is holding up well, but one can tell it is a carry gun (Mika pocket holster) and that I have been shooting lead as I've not used any of the lead-removal cloths.


For other shooters, particular older ones with less-than-good eyes:

On another subject--as my hand has gotten stronger, the problem I've had with the CT 405 recoil pocket tearing has abated. I'm not sure that my hand strength has anything directly to do with that problem (the second grip tore after five rounds)--but CT has taken care of me.

I cannot speak too favorably about the Crimson Trace grips for the J-frames; either one. First, the -405 / boot-grip model offers real help with recoil--and secondly, once you've habituated to its use, the accuracy is amazing. Essentially, I now point shoot, can do it with better accuracy than iron sights and a rest, and can do it faster. Further, the laser is the best training aid I have found--dry firing with the laser shows you the kind of bobbles your hand is doing, and live firing gives you instant feedback.

Now that I have figured out how to do those Speer 38+P GDSB135-gr. loads as lead bullet reloads costing about 12 cents a round, I am in heaven. I'll be able to go to an inside range this winter, save money, and still have my brass. It's the best of all worlds.

Jim H.

jfh
October 26, 2007, 08:14 PM
See the comments in the preceding 4-5 posts, and note my "update" comment.

So I took the 340 to the bench--at this point the resistance to turning was strong, and consistent.

1. I sprayed Gun Scrubber on the fore end, at the spacer bushings and worked the extractor rod a few times to distribute the gun scrubber; I then sprayed under the extractor at the back end, and then I 'worked' the cylinder.

It freed up "noticably," but still with resistance. I repeated #1--freed up some more, but would not "freely turn" or spin by any means.

2. After two go-rounds of the above, I then added some CLP at the bushings and worked the rod again. It freed up some more, moving evenly--

3. So, I sprayed a good amount of Gun Scrubber in again, worked the rod, and it's now sitting.

I'm going to disassemble the rod / cylinder assembly to try to learn more and to see what the status is after the degunking-lubing routine outlined above. FWIW, I don't think the above procedure is "cleaning" the assembly, it merely gets it running again momentarily.

Jim H.

jfh
October 28, 2007, 12:32 AM
I posted a query on this issue over on the S&W forums--first in "Revolvers"--but got little action; everyone seems to be ooohing and aaaaahing over the latest purchase of an original 15 for $75.00. So I reposted it in reloading, and got a few good tips.

It is just a cleaning issue--on the ejector / cylinder assembly. I removed the yoike and disassemble it, cleaned everything, and reassembled. It now spins freer than when I first bought it.

As for the reason this is showing up on the M&P 340s, it apparently is just tight specs on this particular model. One respondee in the S&W / Reloading link commented on the problems he used to have with a K-38 being the same way. His impression is that it is just grunge, not necessarily lead, Brassman.

For cleaning, I started with Gun Scrubber and bronze and nylon brushes. I used Hoppe's Elite Bore Gel on the cylinder and frame for the leading. It worked pretty well, and there was no damage to the DLC finish.

For learning the disassembly / assembly procedure, I used Kuehnhausen's S&W Revolver's Manual, J.B. Wood's pictorial on S&W revolvers in the Gun Digest Assembly / Disassembly Manual, and a J-Frame schematic from Smith & Wesson that I found at Brownell's. If you're mechanically inclined, and if you know that the ejector rod is reverse-threaded, then you could probably get by with just the schematic.

Jim H.

hillaryisabum
October 28, 2007, 05:21 PM
Shot my new 340CT. What a great gun. Thank you Dadams and to JFH for your ammo and cleaning advice. Bullet hit the spot where the laser ended up after trigger pull. 25 yard shots were in the kill zone most of the time. IMO,very accurate gun for it's barrel length. Laser really helps!

Started out with FMJ about 50 rounds or so which were a pleasure to shoot.
Went to Speer 135 GDHP,also a pleasure. Then went to .357 and that was nasty. Ten rounds of that was all I cared to abuse myself with. Just one .357 round was enough for my "macho" weight lifting son. Could not imagine how loud that would be w/o ear protection. Gun packs a punch which doesn't really hurt it, is jusy very uncomfortable with .357. Anyone know the decibel difference for .38+P vs. .357?

In conclusion ,.357 ammo is fun every now and then and I do have it in the gun right now for CC. Firing ten rounds or so in a row are tolarable, but if you can stand any more than that you are a better man than me. Fireball is impressive to see and I can imagine if you ever had to shoot that gun in a public place everyone around you would hit the ground for one reason or another. Gun was easy to clean because I did mostly fire FMJ. I will hang on to this great CC weapon. Light and easy to put in your pocket, accurate enough to defend yourself and packs a wallop! But you all already new that.

Best regards, Richard.

DakotaBlues
October 28, 2007, 08:18 PM
My brother-in-law is a State Trooper here in Michigan. I've always loved his back-up rig, a S&W .357 Mag (640 I believe with rubber grip), affectionately called "The Pocket Rocket". Well, I thought I'd finally join the club and start putting my carry permit to use more consistantly. I've used CT grips on my SIG 226 and have no complaints. I was concerned about the grip that came on the M&P 340 that I found (these are the small grips).

To be honest, I found it miserable to shoot. 5 rounds was all I really wanted. Night and day difference as compared to my brother-in-laws (and I have to believe the grip has more to do with that than the weight). Would the more full CT grip work on this rig (i.e., the rubber CT one that is larger)? I hate to drop the extra money on another CT grip, but this one doesn't offer much help with felt recoil at all IMO and I've never heard my brother-in-law complain that his rubber grip snags that badly.

Alternatively, I thought about just running .38's through this thing to get better with this trigger, then .357's on occassion. Just seems they could have done more with the backstrap (realizing that the goal likely was concealability). Any suggestions on how to proceed? I've shot handguns a good bit and just find this grip unenjoyable.

kurtiss
October 28, 2007, 09:17 PM
I had a 360 PD and I ended up putting on the longer CT grips. I think they are called the 305's. I liked them a LOT more than the 405's which are the shorter ones. You can get a full grip with the 305's, which helps a great deal with regards to controling the gun. I didn't feel that the 305's hampered the concealability at all. I front pocket carried the gun. I did cut the bottom off of an Unkle Mikes holster to allow it to sit a little lower in the pocket. Worked like a charm. Bottom line for me. I could conceal the 305's as well as the 405's, and I felt the grip was MUCH better. I will be purchasing a 360 M&P soon, and I will put the 305's on it.

Oh yeah, you can probably ebay your 405s that came on the gun and get most of your money out of them. Good Luck!

DakotaBlues
October 28, 2007, 09:45 PM
Appreciate your response; I suspected the larger CT grip would help a ton. Guess I'll be off to work a trade or buy and sell. Thanks again for the timely help; much appreciated!

jfh
October 28, 2007, 10:24 PM
I have the 305 grips on a 640 (SS) and the 405 grips on a 340. The 640 is entirely shootable with about whatever load I've run in it, but I've used it mostly as a development gun for practice loads I've talked about in previous posts here.

The M&P340, OTOH, is a daily carry gun. There is no question but what the factory grips are a simple, cheap boot grip that you can hold--and that's about it. The CT 405 is an excellent replacement for that size grip, and its design significantly controls the recoil. The 305 is not quite as good on recoil control, but gains in finger usage, so to speak. IMO, there is a difference in concealability between the two grips--but maybe my jeans' pockets aren't as big as kurtiss' jeans pockets are.

Most lightweight carriers I know do limit their rounds to 38+P stuff, or the milder 357 loads. A current favorite round--and the one I keep in my 340--is the Speer 38+P Gold Dot 135-gr short barrel load. GDSB-135 bullet is optimized to work between about 850 and 1000 fps, and the 38+P load runs about 900 fps in my two j-frames mentioned above.

Speer also makes a 357 Mag 135-gr SB load that is suppposed to run about 1000 fps from a 2" barrel. That's another round to consider. However, given the test results I've read about the 38+P load, I feel entirely comfortable with that round in my carry gun.

I've also found that nothing beats practice in shooting these small guns well. I've used my practice shooting to acclimate to the lightweight by "working my way up"--I don't even bother with factory 357 Mag loads yet, and I may never carry them if I don't feel I can readily shoot-five-reload-and-shoot-another-five without considering the pain. So, I'd suggest you practice a lot with milder loads. If you want the comfort of 357 Magnum cartridges when you carry it, fine.

Jim H.

DakotaBlues
October 29, 2007, 08:37 PM
I appreciate your response. I contacted Crimson Trace directly today and they indicated they'd do the swap for me from the 405's to the 305's. I feel I'll still be able to more than reasonable conceal it and I'm hopeful it will take some of the sting out when using .357 rounds. While my brother-in-laws rig is all stainless (and I believe it weighs in around 23 oz. empty as compared to my new M&P which weighs in around 13 oz.) the larger, rubber grip he has on it makes it pretty easy to shoot in comparison to the 405 grip IMO. I can only hope the 305 CT grip will be similar.

Thanks again guys.

DAdams
October 29, 2007, 11:08 PM
Dakota, let us know how you like the 305s.

I have two sets of 405s on two different J Frames. My hands are in the "medium" size range so they work fine for me and do a great job in providing some "stress release".
Some of the shorts and pants I wear do better with the shorter grip.

jfh
October 30, 2007, 12:29 AM
I found a box of the Speer 357 Short Barrel 135gr cartridges. They went over the chrono this afternoon in the 340:

Velocity: 1031.5
High: 1061.1
Low: 969.9
SD: 35.8
MAD: 24.6
ES: 91.2

FWIW: Here's (one of) the 340 results again for the Speer 38+P Short Barrel 135gr.

Velocity: 895.3
High: 916.0
Low: 849.8
SD: 26.3
MAD: 18.2
ES: 66.2

Both rounds shoot to about the same point of aim, and both are very accurate--I've shot groups as small as 3/8"w x 1/2" h (4/5, 1 CF) at 10-15 yards (from a benchrest, using the laser).

I found the 357 mag round entirely manageable--but I have now shot over 600 rounds through the 340, and over 3000 rounds through the 640. I still intend to carry the 38+P load, as that can be shot faster and more accurately by me at this point in time.

The weather was about the same for both tests--e.g., appr. 60F, sunny, mod. humidity.

Jim H.

DAdams
October 30, 2007, 08:07 AM
Thanks for the chrono report on the SGD .357 Plus P. I liked that round upon finally having the opportunity to light a few last week. They should do a 158 gr.

Refresh my memory, have you cooked up a "heavy" .357 equivalent of the SGD for SB? 158. How did it chrono?

Have you tested the standard BB 20C? If so could you put those together with aforementioned report. Have you done BB plus P?

I still intend to carry the 38+P load, as that can be shot faster and more accurately by me at this point in time.


Which one is the one you intend to continue to carry your reloads or the commercially available SGD?

Great information. By the end of the month I will begin the buying process on the LnL. Recently ordered and received the ABCs of Reloading, and yesterday the Hornady Cook book arrived.

Do you have some opinions on reloading commonly made mistakes or must have, must do items?

jfh
October 30, 2007, 11:52 AM
DAdams: Thanks for the thanks.

Your query reminded me that I do have the two Buffalo Arms rounds in the (.38 / .357) retail ammo box. We have another glorious day here, and I plan to run the chrono again, so I will include a cylinderfull, if my courage is great.

As you may recall, I started on my "38+P reloading project" as a means of both becoming profiicent at J-frame SD use. To do that, one simply has to shoot a lot. To shoot a lot with a lightweight J-frame, you have to become acclimated to the recoil, so I set up a reloading program that 1) allowed me to shoot a lot economically, and 2) provided the recoil acclimation needed by adjusting powder charges while using the chosen PD round bullet (or a close equivalent).

The reloading project has largely accomplished the initial goal: I can now rapid fire a cylinderful of the factory Speer 38+P 135 gr round, reload, and shoot another cylinder. My hand is much tougher, and I have the callouses on my trigger finger and thumb that allow much more practice.

In the course of the reloading project to accomplish that goal, I was able to shoot rounds that cost me about 11 cents (lead 140-gr) or 23 cents (the Speer 135 GDSB bullet) instead of $1.00 for the factory round. The net result is that I have now shot well over 3000 rounds out of the 640, and about 600 out of the 340.

In accordance with the prevalent internet wisdom on PD ammo, I intend to only carry the factory round. Having said that--it really is tempting to build a reload that provides the 38+P factory round ballistics in a .357 Magnum case. The obvious benefit is the easier-cleaning factor of the longer cartridge, not to mention the lower cost of the round. Further, should that prospect of interrogation after a shooting or the apocryphal cross examination, it would allow me to say "Yessir, those were handloads. I created a lower-power round than the factory round because I'm an old man with sore hands...."

However, the cylinder-binding showed up again on the 340, and I will now try to minimize it by shooting only the Speer bullet reloads to see if it is lead or the powder characteristics.

More later--

Jim H.

DAdams
October 30, 2007, 10:55 PM
All the rounds I have put down range so far; I would guess maybe 250 with a few recent .357 SGD for short barrels have been with the Hogue Monogrips.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/dmadams/P8050029.jpg

Those are awesome full hand grips, and provide great control, but just a bit long for pocket carry in some of my slacks.

I put the original S&W CT 405s back on today. Like a different revolver. The little finger is lost though hanging around underneath. Nice to have the laser pointer back on the other hand.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/dmadams/P5210023.jpg

Now I can start over with range work. :D And get good again.



My 642 has them on so I am not too rusty but it has been 3 months since the CTs and 642 have been to the range.

jfh
October 31, 2007, 12:11 PM
I was at the range again yesterday, and I shot about fifty reloads again. All the bullets were the Speer GDSB135JHPs. At the end, there was some resistance at the cylinder. Four hours later, cylinder rotation was noticably stiffer, but still usable once I freed it up by manually turning the cylinder. It appears that the gunk congealed a bit more on the rod during that time. Eighteen hours later, the resistance remained about the same. Had I shot about seventy-five to 100 rounds, the later-time resistance would have been really significant, possibly enough to bind up the cylinder.

I suspect there is a correlation between 'clean-burning' powders and the gumming-up--but I shot four different powders yesterday. None of the rounds are low-pressure loads, however--really medium-pressure loads in a .357 case. The slower powders might be the culprit.

I'll continue to chase this some more as time passes--but I suspect that the problem can be minimized by 1) shooting only FMJ bullets, 2) using faster powders, and 3) using a load that results in complete combustion.

It is readily solved by simply cleaning your M&P340 after every range session. And that is what I do anyway with a firearm I carry for PD.

DAdams, I forgot to take the Buffalo Bore ammo with me yesterday--I rushed out the door to get range time in before a pre-scheduled event there. But, tomorrow may be warm enough to shoot again--and I have the Buffalo Bore Ammo in the range bag.

Update on cylinder binding: At the range two days later, I shot another 30 rounds through the 340--again, reloads, with the Speer 135-gr. JHP bullet, no lead, but with three different powders. Total, about 100 rounds since cleaning. Six hours later, the cylinder was "significantly" bound, and manually turning it only partially resolved it.

I see no reason not to shoot Jacketed reloads (save for the reload-warranty issue), but I would definitely clean the 340 after EVERY range session.

Eventually, I may be able to correlate this to powder / load types, but that's not possible yet.
Jim H.

Brassman
November 1, 2007, 02:09 PM
Mr. Mika says my holster will be shipped 11-02-07. Can't wat!

DAdams
November 1, 2007, 06:15 PM
Brassman, here is a shot to carry you through until the real thing.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/dmadams/P5220028.jpg

DAdams
November 1, 2007, 06:17 PM
Here is a M&P 340 shot in the spirit of the season.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/dmadams/PB010031.jpg

Got a new Fenix LED L1T v2.0 with pulse tail cap.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/dmadams/PB010016-1.jpg

jfh
November 1, 2007, 08:53 PM
Item 20A--"Heavy 38 SPL+P:" 158-gr. LSWHC, factory spec'd at 1000 fps/M.E. 351 ft. lbs.

five shots, from an S&W 640 (2 & 1/8" barrel): Average, 1020.3 fps.
five shots, from an S&W 340 (1 & 7/8" barrel): Average, 1010.0 fps.

Item 20B--"Heavy 38 SPL+P:" 125-gr. L.V. Gold Dot, factory spec'd at 1050 fps/M.E. 306 ft.lb.

five shots from the 640: Average, 1061.1 fps

I've had trouble believe the 20A advertised specs--but they are true. Further, compared to the hand-loaded .38Spl+P loads I've been doing with various powders and a 140-gr. lead bullet, the recoil is NOT harder, and the shot has a noticable "38 Spl" feel to it. Anyone well acclimated to a 340 should have little trouble shooting it.

It is a bit stiffer recoil than the Speer 38+P 135-gr GDSB load, but it's also 'shorter'--and given the historical performance of the 38 Spl 158-gr. LSWC-HC round, it should be a super defensive load in 642s-442s.

As far as the 20B load goes, that's a real light load in comparison. I didn't bother to shoot it in the 340, I feel that confident about its managability.

What's that link to the gelatin tests someone has done?

Jim H.

Eyefly
November 2, 2007, 02:15 PM
Hello fellas. New here. I just bought a 340 M&P and put a 305 grip on it. I will have pics soon

JMFred
November 3, 2007, 12:38 PM
DAdams, nice pics of your 340. The pic with the Fenix came out particularly well.

jfh, thanks for the chrono work. The Buffalo Bore stuff looks fantastic.

DAdams
November 3, 2007, 05:19 PM
Item 20A--"Heavy 38 SPL+P:" 158-gr. LSWHC, factory spec'd at 1000 fps/M.E. 351 ft. lbs.


five shots, from an S&W 340 (1 & 7/8" barrel): Average, 1010.0 fps.

Item 20B--"Heavy 38 SPL+P:" 125-gr. L.V. Gold Dot, factory spec'd at 1050 fps/M.E. 306 ft.lb.


I've had trouble believe the 20A advertised specs--but they are true. Further, compared to the hand-loaded .38Spl+P loads I've been doing with various powders and a 140-gr. lead bullet, the recoil is NOT harder, and the shot has a noticable "38 Spl" feel to it. Anyone well acclimated to a 340 should have little trouble shooting it.

It is a bit stiffer recoil than the Speer 38+P 135-gr GDSB load, but it's also 'shorter'--and given the historical performance of the 38 Spl 158-gr. LSWC-HC round, it should be a super defensive load in 642s-442s.

Great information. 1010 avg fps with 158 gr @ 351. That is darn impressive. :eek:
Think I will pick up a couple boxes. I have some standard but no +P in the BB. I could run that in the 642, 340 and 686. Pretty versatile and potent round.

Thanks.

Eyefly
November 7, 2007, 08:08 AM
Here are the pics I promised of the 305 grip on the 340. I had several people email me and PM me so I figured I had to do this sooner than later. One of these is for Kurt. There you go buddy... You will know which one it is. :)
Just click on the link...

I tried 50 rounds of 38 at the local range last Saturday. Very straight forward and easy to control. The 357 was a good bit more powerful. After five shots, it started feeling uncomfortable, so I stopped. I can easily carry this load for concealed carry but I will be going to the range with 38s.

On another note. This grip is about one thousand times more comfortable than the stock Hogue. And it it ever so slightly more difficult to conceal in your pocket. However it makes very little difference and I can still carry it in any of my pockets.

Regards...

DAdams
November 7, 2007, 08:53 AM
Welcome to the M&P 340 Thread (formerly Club).

Nice looking 340 and good pics. If you wouldn't mind, post the pictures in the thread with the CT grip and shot with it in your hand. It would be helpful to folks who may be evaluating the relative merits of the 405 vs the 305 grip. I have a "medium" mitt and the 405s are probably optimal for me, size and pocket carry requirements. I'm sure the 305s offer more control with the full grip. Doesn't sound like they are compromising the carry exposure issues.

I may have to get a set of 305s one day. I have two sets of the 405s, one set on a 642 and the other on the 340. I just had to have one set of those with the S&W Logo. ;)

Which .357 round did you try? If you didn't try the Speer Gold Dot .357 135 gr for short barrel you may want to give them a run. I didn't find them any more abusive (relative) than the SGD Plus P when trying them out back to back.

Eyefly
November 7, 2007, 09:39 AM
I tried the Speer .357 gold dot. Same as you have in your photo. By the way, I consider myself to have an average medium hand although I wear "Large" gloves. Ring size 13...

Here are a few more...

Regards.

DakotaBlues
November 7, 2007, 01:06 PM
Ambi. I see. Thanks for the photos.

Eyefly
November 7, 2007, 01:52 PM
Not ambi. Just difficult to take a photo with my left hand.

Brassman
November 7, 2007, 05:01 PM
Hey DA. The kingdom has been missing a couple loyal subjects. What d' ya say we pay the court a visit? It ain't their fault the house got demolished.:mad: We lived there a long time before we came here anyway. What d' ya say?...What d' ya say?:confused:

I hope the Mika is waiting on my carport when I get home today.

Nematocyst
November 7, 2007, 05:27 PM
I agree with B'man, DA: we miss you over there.

Besides, the house isn't demolished.
We just moved into a spiffy new space.
I think it's going to work out just fine.

But we're missing our MSAA (and an important humorist).

Come on by, dude. ;)

Nem A. Tocyst

fiVe
November 7, 2007, 07:27 PM
I agree with B'man, DA: we miss you over there.

Besides, the house isn't demolished.
We just moved into a spiffy new space.
I think it's going to work out just fine.

But we're missing our MSAA (and an important humorist).

Come on by, dude.

Ditto. Please. I'll beg if I must.

Brassman
November 11, 2007, 08:58 AM
The Mika seems to be the ticket for me and the M&P 340. I carried it all day yesterday in a pair of jeans and it is molding nicely to the weapon and to my shape. I love the way the holster always stays put when the weapon is drawn. Today I'll try it in a pair of my normal pleated chinos.

DAdams
November 13, 2007, 10:32 AM
Randy's Hunting Center in Michigan has M&P 340s in stock. With and w/o Crimson Trace grips.

http://www.randyshuntingcenter.com/

That is where I purchased mine and had it transfered to my local FFL.

Great to work with and the transaction came off without a hitch.
You can see their price posting on Guns America. Search "pocket pistols" or S&W. I think they were in the mid $600 range $679 or there abouts. My LGS sells them for 699 when they are in stock.

lexburbury
November 15, 2007, 01:27 PM
Wow this is great! I just purchased a 360PD after a years research on this website for pros and cons and now we have a scandium forum. All my questions will be answered. After firing automatics most my life I am revolver convert and this one fits my needs to a T. Looking forward to reading everything here and talking to everyone. Thanks

DAdams
November 16, 2007, 07:36 PM
Welcome to the exoctic snubbie club. ;)

Bottom feeders have their role in the foodchain but there isn't much the diminutive pocket revolvers can't do.

It still amazes me how accurate they can be with practice. Years ago I couldn't hit a five pound can at point blank range with a snub.
I have improved somewhat since then, but not much. :rolleyes:

They are great fun and make a real nice carry.

Tell us all about it and of course pictures are mandatory. Great group here.

hyphen
November 16, 2007, 09:56 PM
Well, you guys might have swayed me from buying an autoloader. I'm looking into buying another handgun since I got some extra cash and I was seriously considering the XD 40. After seeing this little marvel, I think I may invest into my second revolver after the 30 day wait (just got my GP last week).

Am I buying too many guns too fast or should I chill for a while?

Tifosi
November 16, 2007, 10:30 PM
No your not buying too many guns too fast. California is aquiring too many laws too fast. After living in Redondo Beach for over 20 years, it became too much of an annoyance for me, I bailed. Easily got a CWP here try that one in LA county.

hyphen
November 17, 2007, 03:13 AM
That I can agree with you on. I'm sort of confused as to why there is a 30 day wait. I mean, all it does is really slow you down. Unfortunately, this is my home and it's not likely that I'll be able to find my sort of work in *most* of the free states. But damnit it irks me to no end that I cannot obtain a CCW license (at least not easily).

At any rate, I'm really liking the 340M&P Centennial. Still contemplating whether or not I should get the auto or stick with my revolvers. I think I need some more convincing (pics!)

Tifosi
November 17, 2007, 03:41 AM
I'm not trying to beat you up, I retired and that gave me the opportunity to go away. I really understand the $$$ thing as I was a computer systems guy, but I don't have to worry about that anymore. Today my nearest traffic signal is 30 miles away, try that in your SC. See I'm still in SC (South Carolina) and the town with the light is Hollywood, SC , funny ain't it. But do not kid yourself in LA county, Last CWP I remember was the Police Chief, Willie Williams, when they imported him from Philly, if my memory serves me right.

PS BTW Here you can buy a gun every day and a bunch of them at anytime. That 30 day thing is a real pain for collectors who want consecutive serial numbers.

I miss shooting for free up at 3 sisters in the high desert (Palmdale).

Nematocyst
November 17, 2007, 04:18 AM
Welcome to the exotic snubbie club. I've come to the right place, then.

http://eelmaa.narod.ru/braveheart/screenshots/steven_pics/st_21.jpg

This is a high caliber place.

.357 is a fine number.

But I still don't want
an airweight in .357 mag.

Speaking only for myself,
I'll take my airweight in .38 spl.

If I was a larger person with more mass,
(to tame that counterclockwise twist)
I'd carry a .357 mag airweight.

Specifically, an M&P 340.

As it is, .38 spl +p is enough for me ... for now...

For now,
I'll take .357 mag
in a 65 or 686, por favor.

But the concept exotic snub nose is intriguing.

And, remember, I did say, "for now".

Oh, yeah, one more thing:
Ireland is my island.

:D

hyphen
November 17, 2007, 04:14 PM
I'm not trying to beat you up, I retired and that gave me the opportunity to go away. I really understand the $$$ thing as I was a computer systems guy, but I don't have to worry about that anymore. Today my nearest traffic signal is 30 miles away, try that in your SC. See I'm still in SC (South Carolina) and the town with the light is Hollywood, SC , funny ain't it. But do not kid yourself in LA county, Last CWP I remember was the Police Chief, Willie Williams, when they imported him from Philly, if my memory serves me right.

PS BTW Here you can buy a gun every day and a bunch of them at anytime. That 30 day thing is a real pain for collectors who want consecutive serial numbers.

I miss shooting for free up at 3 sisters in the high desert (Palmdale).

Yeah, maybe when I retire I'll move out of this place, but I've got a loooong way to go before that happens. I'm really a city boy though and being 30 miles from a stop light would drive me crazy. But who knows, things may change when I get a bit older. Then again, maybe by an odd twist of fate California might loosen up on gun laws (yeah right).

I've never been to 3 sisters, but my dad lives in Wrightwood which is just past Palmdale. I've gotta look that place up and stop by the next time I go visit him.

Tifosi
November 17, 2007, 04:58 PM
hyphen,

3 sisters is three mountains on your left off of 134 Pear Blossom Hwy as you going from LA to 15. Being the $$$ was good out there I retired early, I eat more than applesauce and creamed corn, also I still get Hooters marketing approach. So I ain't that old, by the way whats your name again sonny.

Good Luck,

Charlie

PS Age only happens to the survivors, and if I knew I would be living this long I surely would have taken better care of this container!

hyphen
November 17, 2007, 05:06 PM
Ah okay, I'll be visiting him sometime next week I think, I'll check it out. Glad you could retire early! Unfortunately, I don't know where my money goes. It seems to magically disappear every weekend :(

I guess you may not be as old as I thought :rolleyes: The name's Will.

lexburbury
November 17, 2007, 09:47 PM
I too looked at the XD but the fact was I wanted something I could carry with me that would not be obtrusive or heavy. The main idea was to carry to protect the family on an outing etc. Thank you DA for the welcome and I am indeed pleased with this Smith. I do not think recoil will be an issue for me as I have been accostomed to using 45acp in 220 grain and the recoil is somewhat horriric out of a 3" barrel. However the Marine Corps teaches you how to get over that. So thank you for all the info and by the way if I can't use any ammoia products on the TI cylinder what do I use for a bore cleaner?
Any info will be great

Semper Fi

jfh
November 17, 2007, 09:58 PM
For cleaning, follow S&W's recommendations and use the Hoppe's "Elite" product line. Get both the cleaner and the bore gel--they do work OK, at least.

I also use Gun Scrubber and CLP, and they are just fine--I've had no finish problems at all. However, "something" just etched the lens on my CT laser--and I don't know what, but I suspect the Elite bore clearner. (I am a cleaning solution slob, however.)

BTW--the recoil in a 340 is NOTHING like any 1911 shooting I've done--which includes full-house 10mm loads. That is, the 340's recoil is much quicker, twisting, and severe.

Jim H.

Lightsped
November 18, 2007, 02:06 PM
I am interested in buying a M&P 340. Either with or without the CT grips. Haven't decided yet. Anyways, who has the best price on the M&P 340?

lexburbury
November 18, 2007, 04:11 PM
Thank you jfh this is good to know. Gun scrubber and clp sound like a good choice. Also a question to the forum who likes what round for what reason. I have not fired my 360 yet (and yes DA I have not forgotten your request for pics) I would like to start off low and begin to learn the recoil and then move up to a round that is a good sd round. I doubt seriously I will ever shoot a 357 out of this weapon but, one never knows. I know if I fire a round and it loosens my poly grip and my dentures go flying it will be too much. Seriously all posts will be appreciated and thank you in advance

Semper Fi

lexburbury
November 18, 2007, 04:13 PM
Wow hello Lightsped greetings from Loganville. Just noticed you. Is that mayor still around that wanted Moline Illinois to ship him all the guns that Moline outlawed??

Semper Fi

achildofthesky
November 21, 2007, 03:19 PM
I don't have a 340 m&p yet but am seriously considering one for carry. Anyone know if there is any manufacturers recommendations on ammo to avoid? How about use of +p or (gulp) +p+? Steady diet of "regular" 357's? How about wear and tear durability issues. I have read every post here today and have seen minor cosmetic issues, but how about wear and durability from LOT'S of shooting like a hundred or so a week?

Thanks in advance and thanks to those posting actual experience with the gun. It sure helps when looking to know how things actually perform and what works both gun and accessoty wise.

Be safe,

Patty

jfh
November 21, 2007, 04:37 PM
achildofthesky: I have a M&P340--you've seen my posts on it in this thread--and I have shot it about 700 rounds in the past five months. I do plan to shoot it about 50 to 100 rounds a month this winter to keep my hand toughened up and to keep the calluses in place, and I'm not worried about shooting it loose, based on my experience to date. So, when it is a year old, I will probably have put 1200-1500 rounds through it.

The rounds shot have been almost exclusively 38+P loads, running about 900 fps, and one cylinderful of the 357 Mag Speer 357 Mag loads at 1000 fps. I've also shot about 4000 rounds through my SS 640, and I will tell you that even with my hand in the condition it is in now, I would be hard-pressed to shoot three-cylindersful of the the 38+P loads in rapid fire / reload sequence--two is about my limit for it and still maintaining shootability. Based on my experiences, I think it unlikely you will find anyone who is shooting upwards of a hundred rounds a week from a scandium-frame lightweight.

For my 340, the mechanical operation is "like new"--maybe even better than new, for the action is smoother than new, and smoother than the action job I had done after 20 rounds. There is no shake, endplay, or anything else. Gap doesn't appear to have changed, etc., etc. The finish is more than durable in all areas of the frame and other parts, as noted in other posts

I don't know of any numbers on the "current durability" factor of the scandium frames, other than the fact that S&W unconditionally guarantees them. I have seen it said that the scandium frame is as tough as the steel ones, and I've no reason to doubt it.

Jim H.

DAdams
November 22, 2007, 12:15 AM
Lightsped-
Best price I have seen recently (and where I purchased mine).

Randy's Hunting Center. He is back on Guns America with prices as $679 no CT and $829 with. I bought mine with about 8 months ago.

http://www.randyshuntingcenter.com/

They were great to do business with. Absolutely seamles deal, shipped to my tansfer in FL.

I have had three people get their hands on the 340 and when they were finished it was all smiles, but having said that I did not take them beyond 38 plus P SGD 135gr for shorties.

They loved the weight and the fact that there is no limitation on .357 loads.

minor cosmetic issues

The DLS black vapor deposition coating isn't pretty, you can't polish it, oils just seem to absorb or dry up. If you are looking for pretty get a nickel plated or nice blued J frame.
M&P 340 is for pocket carry in a Mika roundcut holster, kicking azz and taking names. It is the J frame Chuck Norris would carry if he needed a gun.
13.3 ounces and IMO the finest sighting system ever put on a snub. After almost a year I like this J frame better every time I take it out.

Here it is after 400 hundred rounds cleaned up for Thanksgiving.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/dmadams/PB010031.jpg

Here it is after a 100 round workout including +P and .357 135 gr SGD for short barrels, wearing the Hogue Monogrips.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/dmadams/PA230008.jpg

Here's pretty. My opera carry.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/dmadams/P9110037.jpg

Dang. It's a California lovefest. You guys need to start a seperate thread. California shooters or some such. ;)

Nematocyst
November 22, 2007, 07:21 AM
#222.

I love my x42,
but am unsure about
whether I want an M&P 340.

But I'm thinking about it ...

http://images.publius.fastmail.fm/LocutusOfBorg2367.jpg

Nematocyst
November 22, 2007, 07:57 AM
...but am still unsure about
whether I want an M&P 340.After a bit more thought,
I've made a decision.

Yes, I would like an
M&P 340, please.

The middle image of
#221 cinched
a decision.

It's that black on black
centennial able to
eat .357 mag.

Um hmm.

achildofthesky
November 22, 2007, 11:42 AM
And they didn't have one for me to fondle. They had a few "similar" sized s&w's to get the idea of the relative size of it. I think I will have to formulate a post looking for someone here in NW Arkansas that has one and mebbe I can shoot or at least check out. This gun is growing on me for what I see as a very flexable number of carry options. Pretty small, ultra light, capable of pretty impressive power and S&W quality and warranty especially considering the TC laser sights. Nice.

Be safe

Patty

achildofthesky
November 22, 2007, 11:51 AM
As the title says, I am looking for someone in NW Arkansas (Fayetteville/Springdale/Rogers/Bentonville area) with a 340 M&P especially w/ the ct sights. A brief search around here left a couple of the gun sales clerks saying "huh, what the hell is that". It would be very helpful to check one out and perhaps even shoot at a local range if you are inclined to make such an offer. I am looking at one for myself for general everyday carry and prefer to look at one before ordering from somewhere. Thanks in advance for any consideration.

Be safe

Patty

achildofthesky
November 22, 2007, 11:52 AM
As the title says, I am looking for someone in NW Arkansas (Fayetteville/Springdale/Rogers/Bentonville area) with a 340 M&P especially w/ the ct sights. A brief search around here left a couple of the gun sales clerks saying "huh, what the hell is that". It would be very helpful to check one out and perhaps even shoot at a local range if you are inclined to make such an offer. I am looking at one for myself for general everyday carry and prefer to look at one before ordering from somewhere. Thanks in advance for any consideration.

Be safe

Patty

DAdams
November 22, 2007, 01:19 PM
you would eventually come over to the darkside. That propensity for the 442 taken to the unlimited .357 mag level.

After a bit more thought,
I've made a decision.

Yes, I would like an
M&P 340, please.

The middle image of
#221 cinched
a decision.

It's that black on black
centennial able to
eat .357 mag.

Um hmm.

Muuwwwahhhhaaa.

If someone told me I could only have one handgun, the M&P 340 would be it. There is nothing this revolver can't do. Conceals like a Centennial, very lightweight, full tilt boogie .357 down to the still potent yet widely available .38 spl. Trijicon night sites with the gutter big dot. Add the Hogue Mono (and I know you will) and this thing is just the nuts. Stainless cylinder which was the only weak link in the Sc/Ti series. Worth the 1.3 ounces IMO to get the full range of .357. I like the stealthy DLC coating. Durable and I don't have to worry about beating it around because that's why I bought it.
Why does it cost so much? Because it's worth it!

It is my go everywhere do anything hg. The only thing that could make it better would 6 rounds, and moonclip capable.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/dmadams/P5220028.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/dmadams/P8050029-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/dmadams/PB010028.jpg

Nematocyst
November 23, 2007, 03:22 AM
That propensity for the 442 taken to the unlimited .357 mag level. Yep. That's it in a hickory nut shell.

Nicely written, dude.

Bears repeating.

If someone told me I could only have one handgun, the M&P 340 would be it. There is nothing this revolver can't do. Conceals like a Centennial, very lightweight, full tilt boogie .357 down to the still potent yet widely available .38 spl. Trijicon night sites with the gutter big dot. Add the Hogue Mono (and I know you will) and this thing is just the nuts. Stainless cylinder which was the only weak link in the Sc/Ti series. Worth the 1.3 ounces IMO to get the full range of .357. I like the stealthy DLC coating. Durable and I don't have to worry about beating it around because that's why I bought it.
So, four questions; feel free to tell me it's already been discussed,
and i'll go back and reread the archives
(haven't been as diligent as I should :uhoh:
as i've been pretty busy):

What proportion of the time do you shoot .38 spl in it?
Which rnd?
Does it handle a given .38 rnd the same as an x42?
How does the overall quality and workmanship compare with x42?

Nem, OEA (ostensibly experiencing assimilation)

http://images.publius.fastmail.fm/LocutusOfBorg2367.jpg

Curare
November 23, 2007, 01:35 PM
I've been eyeing the M&P 340, but for now I will stick with my tried and true mid-nineties 640-1.

The 640 handles recoil wonderfully, and the increased mass is not an issue with carry for me (6'3" 240lbs.). The gun does not print in my Desantis Nemasis holster. Plus, my 640 has the added benefit of all stainless construction and NO LOCK. I may add a XS Big Dot to the nose, which won't be a problem, as I allready swapped out the original front sight that wasn't machined to my liking. The trigger was tuned by a smith and is non-MIM BUTTAH! Plus the gun is absolutely gorgeous.

I'll still keep my options and mind open, however.

DAdams
November 23, 2007, 05:36 PM
What proportion of the time do you shoot .38 spl in it?
When I range it out I like to start with generic and inexpensive .38 spl. Usually four to five cylinders.
Then run a couple cylinders of SGD 135 gr 38 spl plus P (old standby).
Then maybe a few SGD .357 135 gr for short barrel.

Which rnd?
Right now it's loaded with the SGD 135 plus P for shorties.

Does it handle a given .38 rnd the same as an x42?
Virtually the same. Remember its a couple ounces lighter. So there might be some felt difference....but with the Hogue Monogrip it is extremely controlable and just plain fun to shoot. The big dot in the gutter is dead on.
The rest is point and shoot like all the J Frames.

How does the overall quality and workmanship compare with x42?
Yes and again I like the low maintenance of the DLC coating. SS (I assume) protective "L" shaped piece of metal on the forward corner of the top strap to take the flame cutting. I suspect it is sacrificial and may eventually need to be replaced. I like the full lug look better than the typical J Frame.

Here are some test jh, (thanks again) did that are worth pulling together.

Chrono test--M&P340, Factory Speer 357-GDSB135gr.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I found a box of the Speer 357 Short Barrel 135gr cartridges. They went over the chrono this afternoon in the 340:

Velocity: 1031.5
High: 1061.1
Low: 969.9
SD: 35.8
MAD: 24.6
ES: 91.2
FWIW: Here's (one of) the 340 results again for the Speer 38+P Short Barrel 135gr.

Velocity: 895.3
High: 916.0
Low: 849.8
SD: 26.3
MAD: 18.2
ES: 66.2
Both rounds shoot to about the same point of aim, and both are very accurate--I've shot groups as small as 3/8"w x 1/2" h (4/5, 1 CF) at 10-15 yards (from a benchrest, using the laser).

Buffalo Bore range results:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Item 20A--"Heavy 38 SPL+P:" 158-gr. LSWHC, factory spec'd at 1000 fps/M.E. 351 ft. lbs.

five shots, from an S&W 640 (2 & 1/8" barrel): Average, 1020.3 fps.
five shots, from an S&W 340 (1 & 7/8" barrel): Average, 1010.0 fps.

Item 20B--"Heavy 38 SPL+P:" 125-gr. L.V. Gold Dot, factory spec'd at 1050 fps/M.E. 306 ft.lb.

five shots from the 640: Average, 1061.1 fps

I've had trouble believe the 20A advertised specs--but they are true. Further, compared to the hand-loaded .38Spl+P loads I've been doing with various powders and a 140-gr. lead bullet, the recoil is NOT harder, and the shot has a noticable "38 Spl" feel to it. Anyone well acclimated to a 340 should have little trouble shooting it.

It is a bit stiffer recoil than the Speer 38+P 135-gr GDSB load, but it's also 'shorter'--and given the historical performance of the 38 Spl 158-gr. LSWC-HC round, it should be a super defensive load in 642s-442s.

As far as the 20B load goes, that's a real light load in comparison. I didn't bother to shoot it in the 340, I feel that confident about its managability.

What's that link to the gelatin tests someone has done?

Jim H.

Lightsped
November 23, 2007, 05:58 PM
My local gun shop got a M&P 340 (non-CT) in. They are asking $699 for it. I really like the gun, and the way it feels. My problem is that I am having difficulty justifying $700+ bucks for a five shot snub.

Is $699 a good price or just average?

jfh
November 23, 2007, 06:26 PM
since the last price increase. However, it may be about comparable to the Randy's Hunting Center Pricing--which would be about the same IF your FFL dealer has a reasonable transfer fee and does NOT have to collect State Sales Tax.

I paid $679 + ST last May to a local dealer; another may have had it at that time for about $20.00 less. But right now, I'd consider $700.00 a good price. It appears S&W is doing a good job to maximize their profit by keeping below the demand even when they do their production runs....

As for the 5-shot issue--well, I'd disregard that factor--it's simply the way J-frames are made for .35x dia. cartridges. Unless the new Federal 327 cartridge gets going--and it could get a BIG boost if S&W does a j-frame in 327--I doubt we will see a 6-shot j-frame. Personally, I would probably buy such a package--but a lot of cartridge geeks are nay-saying it as a solution in search of a problem.

Unverified rumor mongering says that Ruger may do a lightweight SP-101. Given Ruger's market niche, I would suspect that means a beefy aluminum frame, not a Scandium frame. And, even if the rumor is accurate, who knows when?

DAdams--thanks for bringing that chrono data forward again.

Jim H.

DAdams
November 23, 2007, 07:00 PM
Randy's Hunting Center

http://www.gunsamerica.com/Search.htm?OG=0&T=Randy's&AS=60&LF=0&OI=0&LTID=CL,A,AB,BA&AC=&MN=0&MX=0&F=

Here is there price on a M&P 340. $669. w/o CT.
If you did a money order save the 2 or 3% of CC.
Whatever your transfer price is? Depending on your state and the local tax??

My local gun shop sells them all day long for $699. OTD. I have seen them higher but not lower recently.

I paid $802 with S&W logo CT 405s, and that included 3% for the convenience of a credit card sale. My local transfer was $25.

I had a hard time paying $895 for a Seecamp .380 but I'm glad I did. The price of Ti, and stainless just keeps going up. Think of it as an investment. :)

Nematocyst
November 24, 2007, 12:34 AM
Thanks for your thorough response. Very informative ... and enticing.

If I may press a point a bit more ...

Which rnd?
Right now it's loaded with the SGD 135 plus P for shorties. Just to make sure, that's in .38 spl, right? As opposed to .357 mag?

So, am I correct to infer that you usually carry .38 spl in it?

If so, that tells me something about this hg and your use of it: it'll eat .357 mag (call it a plus in a pinch), and has a more robust front sight, and is built more substantially, but it will shoot .38 spl just as well as a .38 spl, so why not normally carry .38 spl in it for added control on double taps.

Right?

As I've written here and elsewhere, my ONLY concern about the 340 - FAR more than the cost - is that for a guy my size (read substantially on the smaller side of average), the .357 mag may have such a counterclockwise twist on that first shot of a single-handed double tap that I can't get it back in control quickly enough for #2.

Of course, the best way to evaluate that concern is to find one and shoot it.

Dr. Nem

DAdams
November 25, 2007, 12:04 AM
Of course, the best way to evaluate that concern is to find one and shoot it.


I think you need to do that. Yep. You do. Uh huh, yessiree, fo sho, mmm hhh, right on, do dat, getterdun, and I couldn't agree more.
Dr. Have you heard of the malady analysis paralysis? ;) BTW that would be .38 spl plus P SGD. Oh, and I just really like the look of a full lugged barrel.

Speed Racer
November 26, 2007, 11:00 PM
I got to handle a M&P 340 this weekend. It's interesting how differently that steel cylinder makes the revolver feel versus my pet 340PD with its titanium wheel. Mine wears the CT 405s and has the light-collecting front sight, so I really like the look of the CT-equipped M&P 340. I might have to get one as a back up to the 340PD.

Nice thread. Keep it going ....

Nematocyst
November 27, 2007, 05:02 AM
Dr. Have you heard of the malady analysis paralysis?"Dr. Have" sounds like a replacement on PBS for "Dr. Who".
But instead of a phone booth, he flies an M&P 340. :D

If I had $700 eating a hole in my pocket,
I'd go buy an M&P 340 tomorrow.

As it is, I don't have December rent yet,
let alone enough to get my truck repaired,
so it'll have to wait.

It's on my list, though.

:)

FranklyTodd
December 1, 2007, 09:25 AM
Sorry - shot my new 340 for the first time yesterday. I posted this as new thread yesterday - deleted it, and here it is:

[EDIT: jfh already answered this - thanks jfh!] I'll ask the question first before anybody gets bored with my range report - this gun has the black SW finish, and I've heard of people messing it up cleaning it. Does anyone with an S&W in the black finish have any tips or warnings about cleaning it. One thing I read was no ammonia - problem is none of the cleaners list their ingredients, that I can find... I haven't looked into it much, just thought I'd throw it out there... Thanks.

For those unfamiliar, this is one of those "scandium" alloy DAO 12oz .357s that everyone claims hurts like crazy to shoot. I don't know what they are talking about, I couldn't feel my hand at all after the first shot - I mean at all!!

No, I'm exaggerating. Started with UMC .38s, peppy recoil, of course, but very controllable, and not at all "painful." Moved up to WWB Personal Protection +Ps, I think they are 125gr. Um, very snappy! But again, I really found it manageable, although it would be a stretch to call it fun. The fireball on both was pretty large - I have to say that firing one of these in a dark room would be the END of night vision for a while.

I didn't buy any .357s, and I didn't want to buy a whole box at the range, but when I told the guy at the counter what I was shooting, he gave me a wry smile and gave me three free rounds of .357 - CCI Blazers, nothing fancy. I asked him if he'd shot one of these before in .357, and he said "yeah, why do you think I'm smiling!"

I've read a few other reviews about instant blood - be it split webbing by your thumb, or the recoil taking a bite out of your trigger finger, etc. So, I was gripping this mother like nobody's business! I think I was so afraid of it, the actual recoil was much more tolerable than I expected. I've read some macho reviews that said it didn't hurt at all. Dang - those guys must have some tough paws! I absolutely found it painful, but not drop-the-gun-and-run-to-mama painful, and there wasn't any blood.

I would not want to shoot a box of 50, but for actual SD carry, I might consider .357. The adrenaline dump in a real SD situation would take care of any recoil issues, I think. Especially in a snub, I think extensively practicing with your carry load is not that necessary. I will either put a glove on or 99% of the time shoot .38 in practice (ending with maybe 10 of carry load). I feel perfectly safe carrying +P for SD (or frankly even a good .38), but I might look into some of the new .357 designed for these guns - supposedly lower flash, and lighter load.

So I ran through 50 .38s, 40 +Ps (the other 10 are for a load plus reload), and 3 .357s (oh, and a box and a half through my Glock27).

My hand felt fine when I left. But, as some of the numbness started to wear off... it did start to ache pretty good. Even as I type this, it's pretty dang sore! This doesn't worry me a bit carrying it for SD, but I can tell you, if I had to shoot it right now I might shed a few tears - it's sore!

The stock grips expose a strip of the frame in the back, so that doesn't help AT ALL. I pocket carry this gun, so I don't want to add much bulk, but I'm thinking of adding LG-405 Crimson Trace grips, which have some extra backstrap padding. Won't render big loads comfortable, but should ease it up somewhat.

All in all, I love it - it's the perfect pocket gun for me. I doubt the 3oz. savings was worth the extra couple hundred bucks (there are non-scandium models that are cheaper and weigh 15oz instead of 12), but I don't turn over guns, I'll pass this down to my kids in 30 years, so I wasn't too worried about a few bucks. Thanks for reading - if you have any questions or comments - hit me!

FranklyTodd, with a FranklySore hand...

PS: I noticed the first post asked for a bit more info - this was on sale for $629 which included a box of silvertips and a speedloader. I carry in a Nemesis pocket holster.

achildofthesky
December 1, 2007, 11:15 AM
I am still looking to check one out here in the NW Arkansas area. No one has one in stock and most go HUH? when I mention one. Mebbe when I visit the family in Austin in a month or so I can look one over. Thanks for the report and enjoy.
Patty

Dollar An Hour
December 1, 2007, 05:43 PM
Hey Guys...

I'm a big fan of a wheelgun for concealed carry. Pocket carry is what I usually choose with the light dress here in warm Arizona.

My 442-1 is my EDC in a Kramer pocket holster, and it's served me well going on 3 years now. The trigger has really smoothed out with the nice predictable stack that S&W's get to eventually. I was thinking about a new finish and Big Dot XS sight install on my 442. S&W wants $180 + shipping for a re-finish and the sight install isn't cheap either.

So I stumbled across this M&P 340 and I'm enamored to say the least. May just have to pick one up. :D

I often practice with and always carry Gold Dot 135gr +P in my 442 with no problem, so I'd just have to see how much more painful they are in the 340.

Question - Once somebody has mastered the Gold Dot +P's and wants to step up the power a bit, but not to a full-house .357, is the next natural step the .357 Gold Dots SB load, or maybe the Buffalo Bore 20B .38 +P?

Grips - Are the smaller factory grips by Hogue? Are these similar to the Uncle Mikes boot grips on X42's that leave the pinky hanging? I can see where the larger Hogue on DAdams 340 would make shooting more pleasant, but I worry about being able to pocket carry in cargo shorts and denim shorts...

Thanks!

FranklyTodd
December 2, 2007, 09:08 PM
Saw somebody else talking about adding CT. Remember, if you care, you can order CT LG-405 with the S&W logo from Smith for $259! Same exact grip. It has an "air channel" on the backstrap, so I think it will help w/recoil alot. Still a short grip though - no "pinky" home. Better for CCW, but probably not as nice to shoot as Hogue full size.

Later - Todd

DAdams
December 2, 2007, 09:30 PM
Or maybe it is just going to take some getting accustomed to again.

I have been shooting my M&P 340 with the Hogue Monogrip and wow, what a great combo. Comfort and control with everything from spl to .357.
The Hogues do have a tendancy to show though in shallow pockets.

I put the CT 405s back on went to the range and did terribly. I need to calibrate the CTs that's one issue, and I didn't have my adjustment tool with me. The big thing though was the comfort and control, big difference. Now I need to decide to leave the CTs on and get accustomed to them again or bail on them and put the Hogues back on. I'm undecided yet. I really would like to try a pair of 305s and see how they work.

Being a point and shoot gun I shouldn't really anguish over it, but it wasn't nearly as much fun ranging the 340 without the Hogues. Sure wish they made them 3/8ths shorter, that's about all it would take.

Welcome Dollar and Frankly.

Question - Once somebody has mastered the Gold Dot +P's and wants to step up the power a bit, but not to a full-house .357, is the next natural step the .357 Gold Dots SB load, or maybe the Buffalo Bore 20B .38 +P?



I found the SGD .357 for SB not much more "aggressive" on recoil than the plus P. You may want to try the BB also. Maybe even the BB standard pressure which chrono out like the "commercial" PP. See Jim's tests back a few pages, he has tested them all.

On cleaning the DLC exterior S&W recommends Hoppes Elite. No ammonia.

FranklyTodd
December 3, 2007, 10:40 AM
Three concerns have come up, and I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts. After first shooting (range report a few posts back) I of course went to clean it (Hoppes Elite foaming cleaner, and Elite oil).

Problems I noticed:

1) where the extractor rod hits the tapered part of the frame, which compresses the rod and lets the cylinder snap in, there's a bright silver line where the black finish is gone - is that normal??? the line even jags up a bit like the extractor star hit the finish at some point. In my first session, I probably loaded 20 times maybe?

2) trigger binding - it fired fine, but as I was cleaning it I dry-fired it a few times, and the trigger bound up, not on pulling it, but letting it off, it wouldn't spring all the way back out (reset). If I let it spring out fast it was fine, but I was doing it all slow motion to get a feel for the action, and it kept hanging up on the way out. I sprayed "break free" liberally in the action, and it seems ok now (still a hitch, but doesn't stop), but that kind of suprised me that it would hang up.

3) "crud ring" is a term I've heard applied to the line that can develop when shooting .38s in a .357 length cylinder, but I've also heard with proper maintenance, it's completely avoidable. Well, I cleaned and scrubbed for a VERY long time, and there's still a noticeable ring in the cylinder bore. Is this normal??

Thanks if anyone can help... If this thing has to go back - that would be disappointing...

FranklyTodd

ps: someone above asked about the stock grips, they are Hogue "bantams." Someone else asked about price, mine was $629 which included a box of Winchester Silvertips and an HKS speedloader. If anyone wants the shop name/number, PM me.

jfh
December 3, 2007, 12:33 PM
1. "...where the extractor rod hits the tapered part of the frame, which compresses the rod and lets the cylinder snap in, there's a bright silver line where the black finish is gone...."

That line is normal, it exists on virtually any revolver. I suspect a bit better fitting or materials selection for the rod contact could help--but it exists on any (S&W) revolver.

2. "...trigger binding...."

The trigger bind you speak of could be caused by the cylinder binding, not by action binding. Does the cylinder spin freely? If not, remove it from the rod and clean both the shaft and the cylinder rod bore thoroughly. LIGHTLY oil the shaft. Some of us who shoot reloads in this gun have had the same problem--read back through the posts.

3. "...I cleaned and scrubbed for a VERY long time, and there's still a noticeable ring in the cylinder bore...."

I have trouble getting all that out, too. If you haven't done so, use a hard nylon or bronze bore .40 S&W brush, and chuck it into your battery-powered hand drill. If you choose to do this, run slowly and keep the brush moving.

CLP is fine, but don't overdo it. Here's (http://attrition.org/technical/firearms/357clean/) a link to revolver cleaning.

Jim H.

FranklyTodd
December 3, 2007, 12:51 PM
Thanks for the response, jfh.

Friction Line
On an old Charter blued snubby of mine, the friction line shows up but just like worn/lighter blueing. I guess the shock is the bright silver raw-metal looking line on the 340 next to the black DLC finish! It almost looks like a gouge in the metal.

Binding
I don't think it is the cylinder binding, because it was only on RELEASING the trigger that it wouldn't go all the way forward, there isn't any cylinder rotation when you let the trigger out. I know in response to the binding I sent WAY too much CLP into the action, but I was kind of panicking.... I think I'm going to go shoot it again at lunch today, see how it does...

"Crud" Line
The ring in the cylinder bore doesn't look "raised" like there's junk there to be removed, it just looks like a line. Does yours even show a line at about the point where a .38 ends? I really let the Hoppes foaming elite sit in there for at least 5 min and scraped her pretty good with a .38 brush - I'm hesitant to go after that line with my DeWalt drill!!

Thanks again for your help, my head was spinning that I perhaps got some kind of lemon or something. ~FranklyTodd

jfh
December 3, 2007, 01:59 PM
I agree with your assessment of the friction line--but so far, I've not worried about it and consider it normal. When I get to about 1000 rounds fired, I am thinking of sending it into S&W for a "checkup" and we'll see what they say.

As for the action binding: I am not knowledgeable enough yet about revolver actions to judge this--I would probably dry-fire it to see if the problem remains. As for the excessive CLP--I would simply set the revolver upright and let it drain out. FWIW, I do NOT use the pressurized CLP, only the squeeze bottles. I use it liberally for cleaning and wiping down, but only sparingly for lubrication.

Yes, I have that "crud ring" and without any apparent surface deposits remaining. Again, I thought I would chase this down with that 1000+-round "tuneup appointment" I'm thinking of doing. As for using the drill--I am assuming you do have the M&P340 (with its stainless cylinder) and not the 340PD (with a titanium cylinder)--so I am not reluctant to tackle cleaning it with a drill and hard nylon bore brush, after dosage of the Elite bore gel like you did.

IMO, your revolver sounds almost normal--just check into that trigger binding. Mine has never had the reset problem--but I did have an action job done by my gunsmith immediately, so the action was cleaned.

Jim H.

soloshot
December 4, 2007, 03:57 PM
Picked up my M&P 340 CT today. Shot 150 rounds of 38 SPL. I've had a 642-2 CT for a few months and what a difference. The smaller grip on the M&P 340 CT definately smarts more than the 642 CT with the same ammo. Dialed the laser in and accuracy was comparable to the 642 CT. Sight shooting was way different. Took a few rounds to figure the different sight out and overall my accuracy was worse on the M&P 340 CT. It may be the smaller grip, different sight, or just getting used to the whole package. A few hundred more rounds should help...

Just a side note: I posted about misfire in the 642 Club. I had 2/50 misfire in my 642 using Fiocchi 38 SPL 158 FMJ. I was using up the rest of my Fiocchi alternating between the 642 and the 340 when another misfire occurred in the 340 this time after 30 rounds. These guns don't like Fiocchi or I got some bad ammo....
cheers!

DAdams
December 4, 2007, 11:13 PM
1. Yes, the DLC is gone. Same on my 642 but not as evident due to coloration. Normal.

2. No. I'm not certain what is going on there. If it starts to act up, light strike or no strike, send it to S&W, they will pay shipping both ways and take care of it under warranty. Might take 10 days. Call customer service first for return authorization. They will send a pre-paid lable.
I had a brand new 642-2 that had to go back at about 150 rounds. It's been fine since a few hundred rounds later.

3. Yes. I have that same ring. I haven't gotten hung up about it. The cylinders are "clean". No lead no copper. Guess I'll have to get a bit more aggressive and see if I can make it go away. But then again....

soloshot, welcome. That two ounces makes a difference in recoil. I shoot the J Frames for profficiency relative to personal protection, not necessarily for fun, but they are that too. Sometimes frustrating, such as my last range trip. Guess it's like bowling, can't strike every frame every game.

DAdams
December 4, 2007, 11:21 PM
Hornady LnL arrived a couple of days ago. Need to get my free bullets offer ordered up and order some shell plates. I'll be hitting you up for some recipes some day after I master the basics. ;)
Unfortunately I'm in FL now and it is in TN.

FranklyTodd
December 5, 2007, 03:33 AM
I was buying some junk at Gander Mountain, and the gunsmith was in so I started jawing with him. Really nice guy so I asked him my two questions (trigger wasn't acting up so didn't ask). You are of course right about the DLC - it is totally normal for it to come off where the cylinder snaps in.

What he explained about the ring in the cylinder requires me to humiliate myself somewhat... :o

The cylinders on these are not straight through - there's a place where the case go, then it's smaller down where the bullet travels. A .38 of course doesn't get as close to that transition point, and so sometimes a deposit is left. He inspected mine and said it was pristine. The "ring" I was whining about is a normal part of the gun where the chamber gets smaller. Probably most EVERYBODY knows about this, but I simply did not; I thought they were the same diameter clear through. I've been doing the autoloader for too long I guess...:rolleyes: Also should have noticed it when the gun was new - my fault...

Thanks again to all who chimed in.

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