[TrapperReady]

I've always tended to run my shotguns fairly dry. On a pump, I may put a drop of lube where the action bars move, shuck it a couple of times and wipe off any excess. An O/U may get a single drop at the hinge. I run my Benelli autos almost totally dry.

With my new Beretta 391, I've noticed that it accumulates carbon like crazy on the gas piston and the shaft it slides on (OK, maybe the "like crazy" was after 400 shells or so in a session). After enough buildup accumulates, the fit is very tight (requires a good tug to remove it), although operation was still fine. So, I've thought that perhaps a few drops of FP-10 on the interior of the gas piston and on that shaft would keep
things moving a little more freely. Heck, it might even help with cleanup.

What do you think? And more imprtantly, what do you do with your gas-operated autoloaders?

[JohnRov]

I take the advice from ShotgunReport.com and shoot mine fairly wet. Here are two links where it is discussed.

http://www.shotgunreport.com/TechTech/TechnoidArchive/20-May-03.html
http://www.shotgunreport.com/TechTech/TechnicalTracts/CareClean.html

[Erick Gelhaus]

Lubrication is a good thing. Mine is wet with A/T fluid.

[sm]

I base lubrication on platform, temp, enviroment. I do not over-lubricate. In freezing temps I use lighter fluid to make sure firing pin is free.

On a field I've run a SX1 easily 1500rds without cleaning, I may put a drop of lube on it from time to time, wipe exterior. Pumps-well...I have just added a drop when needed, easily run more than a semi, in normal conditions.

ATF is well kept secret, compatabile with that 391. Hoppe's no. 9 left in a gas chamber been done for a long time...so has ATF...we just never told anybody what was in that little refillable oiler...;)


O/U's...I shot Citori bbl sets for a long time[before tubes--err--well became the norm] Usually just oil hinges, did use some STOS, but just because It was in a winners kit, and I needed to lube hinge...all that was handy. These just lubed as needed, broken down if shot in rain, or once a year. Other than that- shoot, wipe down. Back when I ran 15-20K rds through Citoris a year.

[PWK]

I spray some Breakfree CLP on both my Brownings (12 & 20) Golds and they cycle fine with even 7/8 oz loads. I don't soak them down but just shoot a little CLP on the magazine tube and in the receiver bolt.

[TrapperReady]

I tried some FP-10 on the gas piston. Not drenched, but a couple good-sized drops on the outside, and three on the inside. Shot 100 shells on Tuesday night, and it seems to work better.

The gas piston showed no symptoms of tightening up due to carbon fouling (like it did when run dry), and clean-up was a little faster, as I could just wipe a lot of the gunk away.

Wet it is!

[HSMITH]

Depends on the gun for me, some I run BONE dry and some need to have some oil in the bolt rails. None of them are "wet" in any way though......

[Mannlicher]

metal in contact with metal, will always cause galling or wear. There are very few instances when a totally dry mechanism is called for. Lubrication was invented for a reason. Once you figure that reason out, you too will lube your gun.