[ed dixon]

I confess I've always used powder solvent to clean up the actions in most of the guns I've owned. I've only recently heard that many people take pains to avoid this and that solvent should only come in contact with the bore. Do you follow this restriction? Do you use cleaning rod guides chiefly to keep solvent out of the action? Are there exceptions to this or times when it should be strictly observed? Ed

[SodaPop]

I know my FAL malfunctioned after a good scrub-down using Hoppes. I lubed the action, but didn't run a patch down the barrel after using Hoppes. The gun failed to extract because things were too dry.

Beware on semi-autos.

Hoppes pretty much tears up everything that isn't metal (including lube) so i wouldn't want it floating around in the action. If you do have to use it make sure you wipe it all off.

[Redlg155]

I've always pretty much used Hoppes #9, but lately I've been using the Birchwood Casey cleaner because of the high ammonia content and my use of corrosive ammo in some of my guns.

I always take a patch wet with solvent and go over the bolt face and any other places I think powder residue might accumulate, followed by a good lube. I would however avoid any contact with painted surfaces or fancy camo jobs. Been doing this since I could remember and I've never had any problems.

In the Army we just stuck with Breakfree/CLP and cleaned everything with it, from bore to buttstock.

Good Shooting
Red

[swifter]

I take pains to avoid getting solvents in: My triggers, it will gunk it up. The rifle bedding -- and by extension, plastic stock -- because some o' that crap will dissolve 'em.:cuss: .Not right away, but one day your rifle just shoots a bit less accurately.
Tom

[Steve Smith]

I use GM Top Engine Cleaner in my bores and my AR actions. I wouldn't let it near bedding, plastic, or wood, though.

[TW37]

Ballistol

Advertised as a lube, but works great as a cleaner in the applications described above. Won't harm wood or plastics.
However, I do prefer other products for the bore.

Non-toxic, biodegradable. Awesome stuff.

www.ballistol.com

:)

[blue86buick]

when I'm cleaning my guns, I use hoppes #9 on pretty much all the metal parts except the outside of the barrel (not necessary). I figure in between the times I hose everything down with brake cleaner, it's the best way to get everything off. It does seem to be a bit difficult to get it (hoppes) all off though.

[Al Thompson]

Steve, is that all you do? No patches or other solvents?

[ed dixon]

The info so far is good, but does anybody actually bother with the rod guides? I haven't yet owned a synthetic stock. Is that what's most vulnerable to damage?

[Al Thompson]

Ed, as I understand it, it's the bedding. HTH

[Steve Smith]

I DO use a rod guide for all my match ARs! I'd use one for any rifle that I expected good accuracy from.

Regarding solvents and "is that all I do" GM TEC is a GREAT solvent...chemicaly the same as Shooter's Choice at a fifth of the price. Its a competitive shooter's secret! I use a patch and swab the bore with it. I let that sit in the bore for about 5 minutes, and then wipe it out several times. I will do this several times so tha tthe bore is clean. I will not use a brush every cleaning, but about every third or fourth cleaning I'll use a brush and JB bore shine to scrub out the carbon ring that forms in the throat. If I don't do that the ring can grow so large that my "seated .010" off the lands" bullets wind up being crammed into the gunk. I'll also run that brush and JB down the bore just a time or two as well. Then I'll use the GM TEC again and "wash" it all out and dry it up with clean patches.


FWIW, CO State Team demands that we all use a specific load for Nationals. The load specifies a specific molied bullet. I've never used moly before, but dedicated one gun to team match practice so I could keep the moly seperate. I just cleaned that gun after about 300 rounds...what a filty mess! My non-mollied gun with 400+ rounds without a thorough cleaning was MUCH easier to clean. That moly makes a mess.