[The_Antibubba]

I really wasn't going to, I swear. I was at the range, and after packing up I went over to the store side to get some cleaning supplies, and there, under the glass, was a nickel-plated S&W Model 10. Talk about rough! A lot of the nickel is gone or pitted, and the cylinder is a little loose. Hey, I already have a Model 10, I don't need another one. But they were only asking $75!! :D

Even after some repair work, it'll still be a bargain. If it's repairable.

Anyway, it's a bit different from the blued M & P I already have. There's no lanyard ring on the butt. Also, the lettering seems to be in the older style. What stuck out most is the knob on the front end of the ejector rod--it's knurled.

Eventually I'm goint to write the company for the history, but based on those little details can anyone give me a rough time frame for this?

[The_Antibubba]

And NO! I did not remember Jim March's used revolver check list :o

This was a heart purchase, not a brain purchase, Even if it isn't fixable it's a neat little piece of history.

[Nematocyst]

I really wasn't going to, I swear. Sure.

We've heard it all before.

"Honest. I didn't mean to."

"That mod 10 just stood up
in the case and said, 'Buy me!' "

Sure.

We've heard it all before.

:rolleyes:

:evil:

;)

[jad0110]

I can't say how much the Nickel would cost to repair, but the loose cylinder should be fixable. Is it end-shake, or is the whole cylinder/crane assembly loose?

S&W has a lifetime repair policy, so you could call them and provide them the serial number with a description of the problem. Just just might fix it under warranty (not the finish though)! Even if they won't fix it under warranty, I don't think it would be too costly to repair. They may even be able to give you a phone estimate.

BTW, nice find!

[1BLINDREF]

How about a picture?

[The_Antibubba]

When I have it, I'll post a photo. I'm working on actually getting it in my hands. CA laws.

One other thing I remember: The side plate is a 4-screw.

[XavierBreath]

Antibubba,
Photos help, but it sounds like you got a deal!
It sounds like you have a five screw pre-depression M&P.
The fifth screw will be in the front of the triggerguard.
Identify your ejector rod with this pic.

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=40514&d=1148835339

[Alphazulu6]

You are a braver purchaser than I! Good Luck!

[Candiru]

Good purchase! I'm envious of your luck. I've been on the lookout for a ratty old Model 10 for under $100 for a long time, with the intent to fix it up and make it a shooter. Let me know how that turns out for you!

[461]

For $75.00 I'd have bought it too! I assume you were at "The Gun Room", I almost picked up an old beater H&R topbreak there a few weeks ago at $150.00 but alas it was a .38S&W instead of a special or a .32. My heart did that little jump thing at first though.

[The_Antibubba]

Xavier,

It wasn't ANY of those, IIRC--the knurling wasn't a diamond crosshatch, more like a shallow "S" with no crosscuts. Of the three the top one is closest, although the knob is more spherical than mushroom-shaped. When I get a picture I'll send it to you first.



Love your blog BTW. :)

[kgriggs8@yahoo.com]

It sounds like it may be a Spanish copy from what you describe. I believe they used the "S" type of checkering IIRC. I may be wrong but that is what comes to mind. I am sure you can tell the difference between a Spanish copy and the real deal so maybe it is something else.

[Walkalong]

I almost picked up an old beater H&R topbreak there a few weeks ago at $150.00 but alas it was a .38S&W instead of a special or a .32.

I just bought a nice H&R top break revolver in .38 S&W. I love the caliber myself. If you like the .32 S&W Long, I bet you would like the .38 S&W. :)

[The_Antibubba]

It sounds like it may be a Spanish copy from what you describe.

I'm almost positive this isn't a copy. Looks like I'm going to have to try to take some pictures of it with my phone (since my curiosity won't let me wait) and post them.

Since the .38 Special cartidge was introduced in 1902, perhaps this was made for export?

Another curious note is the serial numbers. There is the one on the crane, but a different number on the butt and cylinder.

[Old Fuff]

The_Antibubba:

There is (or should be) a serial number on the bottom of the butt, and possibly repeated on the back face of the cylinder and on the bottom of the barrel above the ejector rod. Ignore any other numbers. The serial number may also be logged on any paperwork or receipt that you may have got from the seller. Post that, and we may be able to get somewhere. Without it all is speculation.

There should also be patent dates on the top of the barrel. They can run to a long list, but all that's needed is the last one.

At this point all I can say is if it is a genuine Smith & Wesson it was probably made sometime between 1899 and 1941. I suspect you want to know more then that... :scrutiny:

[XavierBreath]

You can also place the revolver on your scanner and cover it with a box to scan.

[461]

Walkalong- I've no doubt I'd love the .38 S&W but I'm really trying not to add anymore rounds to the reload setup, actually trying to consolidate a bit. :p

[The_Antibubba]

I assume you were at "The Gun Room"

Yup!! I'm told it had just gone into the case.

There is (or should be) a serial number on the bottom of the butt, and possibly repeated on the back face of the cylinder

#3503XX.

[Walkalong]

Walkalong- I've no doubt I'd love the .38 S&W but I'm really trying not to add anymore rounds to the reload setup, actually trying to consolidate a bit. :p

It's too late for me. I can't be saved. :D

[Old Fuff]

Well it isn't a model 10... :what: They didn't come into the picture until 1957.

Subject to a better and more detailed description, I'd say what you probably have is a .38 S&W 1905 Hand Ejector; Military & Police model / 4th chg. These were made from 1915 through 1942, in a serial number range running from 241,704 to 999,999. Your revolver, 350,3xx probably dates from the early 1920's.

It can be restored, but the cost would undoubtedly be more then you paid for the gun... :(

[The_Antibubba]

Whoops!

[The_Antibubba]

It wasn't ANY of those, IIRC--the knurling wasn't a diamond crosshatch, more like a shallow "S" with no crosscuts

Uh... :o

It matches the top picture--1902 to 1930ish.

On the plus side, it looks better than I remember. I'll post a few cellphone photos later.

I also did a few "Jim March" checks; aside from a very little looseness of the cylinder, it looks good. It's still going to the 'smith as soon as I possess it (well, after I show it off a little :D )

It can be restored, but the cost would undoubtedly be more then you paid for the gun...

It's $75--it'll cost more than that just to have a 'smith LOOK at it. But the more I see it, the more a restoration looks worth it.

[The_Antibubba]

Warning: Cellphone photos!

[The_Antibubba]

Yeah, even with a cellphone camera I had to get artsy.

Oh yeah, Xavier--5 screws.

[XavierBreath]

Yep, that's a pre-depression Smith & Wesson M&P. It's hard to say from a pic, but I would wager the nickel is original. There is no nickel on the hammer and trigger or ejector star, right? If the nickel is not atrocious, and falling off in flakes, the finish is very good considering the age of the gun.

Your revolver also looks to be a five inch barrel, which adds a bit to the desirability. Measure from the cylinder face to the muzzle.

The grips on your revolver appear to be correct, and in decent enough shape. Check inside them for a matching serial number either stamped or written in pencil. The serial numbers for these revolvers are on the butt, underneath the barrel (swing out the cylinder and look on the flat), and on the rear of the cylinder as well as inside the grips. They should all match.

I'd say you got a very good deal at $75! I would tentatively rate your M&P at no less than Very Good, and possibly as high as Excellent. According to Supica's Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson (http://xavierthoughts.blogspot.com/2006/12/supicas-third-edition-is-out.html), a pre-depression M&P in VG condition should run $250. In Exc, it should run $335. Nickel and five inch barrels each bring premiums. Yeah, Anti-Bubba, you done good! This revolver will likely be a very sweet accurate shooter. Factory .38 special's the ticket. No +P. Consider lettering (http://xavierthoughts.blogspot.com/2006/01/collectors-treasure.html) your gun.

Here is my six inch pre-depression M&P in nickel.

http://www.bayourovers.com/Smithandwessonmilitarypolicestag.jpg

It is quite accurate, and a lot of fun to shoot.

http://www.bayourovers.com/ztraget.jpg

[Kevinch]

S&W has a lifetime repair policy, so you could call them and provide them the serial number with a description of the problem. Just just might fix it under warranty (not the finish though)!

I think that policy was initiated somewhere around 1990, on guns produced then & later. I doubt they would fix a pre-depression piece at no cost.

Still, making contact & discussing the gun wouldn't be a bad idea, IMO.

Good luck - have fun!

[XavierBreath]

I also did a few "Jim March" checks; aside from a very little looseness of the cylinder, it looks good. It's still going to the 'smith as soon as I possess it (well, after I show it off a little ) Chances are the revolver is just fine. Have someone who is familiar with and shoots old Smiths look at it.

[Old Fuff]

Have someone who is familiar with and shoots old Smiths look at it.

The Old Fuff is very experienced at shooting old Smith's. Send me the revolver and a case or two of ammunition, and I'll see you get the gun back sometime in the next ninety years... :evil: :D

[XavierBreath]

Pssssssst..........Do NOT clean this revolver with ammonia based cleaners and do NOT use copper solvents on it.

Ammonia will milk out the nickel.

Copper solvents will disolve the copper base for the nickel.

[The_Antibubba]

So, by brand name, what cleaners should I use?

[XavierBreath]

By brand name, to clean my nickel guns, I use Breakfree CLP, Ballistol, and elbow grease. The nickel is slick enough that it actually cleans up very easily. I don't fuss over the burn rings on the front of the cylinder.

There may be other products out there, but these are the ones I use.

FWIW, I'll up Old Fuff's offer. I'll have the gun back to ya in 45 years, and I'll even supply my own ammo!

[FXWG]

S&W serial number history report (http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CustomContentDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=11101&content=25301&sectionId=10504)

[The_Antibubba]

Xavier, Old Fuff--your generous offers touch me deeply, but I wouldn't think of sending either of you an untested, possibly unsafe firearm. :neener:

If you want one of your own, though, this place has one:

http://www.ivanhoeoutlet.com/shop/index.php?action=item&id=524&prevaction=category&previd=12&prevstart=0

You'll have to nickel it yourself, though I personally wouldn't touch that blueing.

Also, they're asking $420 more than mine.

[The_Antibubba]

Started the DROS today (People's Republic of California paperwork). I noticed the patents stamped on the top of the barrel. Interesting.

[Old Fuff]

I noticed the patents stamped on the top of the barrel. Interesting.

Yes, and they can be important. If you find another gun :) write down the last date, because it can help with identification.

The one on your revolver should be: Dec. 29, 1914.

[The_Antibubba]

Dec. 29, 14.

She's home!!! :D

The grips on your revolver appear to be correct, and in decent enough shape. Check inside them for a matching serial number either stamped or written in pencil.

Nope, nothing. But if it was stenciled near the outer edges I probably wouldn't be able to tell--there's a little bit of corrosion underneath the grips (apparently the hidden parts weren't nickeled) and the wood was a affected a little; if i move it a bit under the light I can almost make out numbers, whether they're there or not. :o

When I get a chance I'll take and post better pictures.

[cousinelmer1]

Thats a good one, I would think original finish also as the pin forward of the grips on the left side is still standing high.
Cool find!

[The_Antibubba]

Since a refinish would destroy the resale value (which is a theoretical, since I don't sell guns) I'm going to leave it as it is, aside from a thorough cleaning.

[DrLaw]

Read the title to the thread. Thought, (sigh) this guy must have a hard life.
Then I read the description.

So you spent $75 for that? Man, life is rough. :rolleyes:

The Doc is out now. :cool: