cleaning up DA pull...


June 27, 2003, 08:07 PM
i've got this smith 66-5 (no lock) i changed out the mainspring and return spring with wolff reduced power springs and the trigger is much better in SA......

but the DA is like pulling a mule into a headchute, well not that bad, but real jerky and uneven... my smith 29 is smooth and even from start to finish, i guess in the 80's smith was still trying to make an excellent revolver off the line...

so where do i need to go from here??? polishing? new parts?

If you enjoyed reading about "cleaning up DA pull..." here in archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join today for the full version!
June 27, 2003, 08:31 PM
First, smoothness is more important than lightness for a DA pull. Contact surfaces may be smoothed with a fine hard arkansaw stone or equivalent. It must be done carefully to maintain original angles and contours. My M29 has a 9 lb very smooth pull at full reliability. I don't remember the original pull. On my Benelli shot gun , just by polishing I went from a poor 8 1/2 to a very nice 5 lb. So polishing can make a big difference but do it carefully.

Standing Wolf
June 27, 2003, 09:15 PM
...polishing can make a big difference but do it carefully.

Very carefully. It's not at all difficult to ruin an action with overzealous stoning.

June 27, 2003, 09:43 PM
alright now what surfaces are we talking about ???

i took some of the parts with the most contact with each other and the frame and greased them up, which helped quite a bit, but the pull is still jerky... mostly right before it breaks...

June 27, 2003, 10:40 PM
You really want to polish up and break all the edges on that rebound-bar that slides back and forth behind the trigger. That stiffness just before the hammer lets go in DA MIGHT be the "hand" and unless you know what your doing I would suggest lots of snapcaps and about a month of watching democrates on television.

If you want to polish up the trigger - just work on breaking the edges and the smoothing the ROUNDED parts near the flat sear engagement surface - stay away from that. The same holds true for the hammer - don't even think of working on the tiny SA engagement. The double action sear may need adjustment, but give it a go with lots of dry firing first.


June 28, 2003, 07:20 AM
If you have never done it before first get a book or video or take it to someone who really knows how to do it . I've done many a trigger job on revolvers so I do everything including the single action notch. It's not a good idea to try to explain in words, pictures do better.

June 28, 2003, 10:33 AM
well i just did the deed....

and it turned out great, not slick as wet glass but a huge improvemnet over stock.....

so i picked up the finest snadpaper we had at work which was 4/0 grit, honestly it feels just like paper but enough strokes would make metal shine....

i just laid the paper flat on the bench and started strokin' :p

i did radius the corners off of the rebound spring retainer and opened up the mouth that accepts that pin in the frame there.... i just went over everything that rubbed enough to get a good shine from it, including the SA notch :uhoh:

after i cleaned up and greased everything up, i put the guts back in, that spring inside the trigger is a bastard :fire: it was pull till i couldn't pull any more.....

maybe it was just the thought of doing it myself that made it feel so good, had a paid a smith to do it, i'd probally picked it apart and talked some trash, but it's my first revolver job and i'll probally shine on it some more later....

i have 150 rnds of 38 so i think tommorow i won't have so many....

July 2, 2003, 12:31 PM
For SW trigger jobs.

Don't polish any sear faces on the trigger or hammer. Those parts are case hardened and you will go through the hardening fast.

July 3, 2003, 05:36 PM
bountyhunter: I've got a quick question - How do they harden the new MIM sear surfaces?


If you enjoyed reading about "cleaning up DA pull..." here in archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join today for the full version!