[Tman]

I was shooting some 38sp and some 357's out of my 627. They fit fine previously, but the last three shots the 357's empty brass were stuck in the cylinder (took about 3 minutes to get them out). Went home, cleaned out the cylinders with Hoppes and CLP. Found out 5 of 8 holes had trouble with inserting 357 cartridges (the other three slid in OK). Did I need to clean some more (looked clean to me) or is something wrong with the revolver cylinder. BTW, took utmost care in inserting and removing ammo, and cleaning the gun....No ND's for me.

[Arub]

Clean some more.

One thing you can do is take a fired .357 cartridge and insert it in the cylinder holes when you are done firing. The expanded casing sort of reams out the cylinder, cutting out some of the carbon causing your problem.

Also, I believe it's KleenBore, there is what I call a turbo scrubber on the market. I threw away the original bubble pack and can't recall, precisely, who put it out or what they call it, but it works wonders for cleaning the chambers. Give it a try.

[Tman]

I'm gonna go out and try to find some Kleenbore. Gonna give it the extra special treatment.....thanks much :)

[Mike Irwin]

It can be very hard at times to see the ring of crud that's built up around the chamber shoulder, but it still interfers with chambering. Bronze brush and solvent and some elbow grease will solve the problem.

[Okiecruffler]

I've found that a .40 cal bronze brush is helpful in cleaning the cylinders in my .357 and .38

[J Miller]

This is a common problem with a lot of revolver calibers.
Shooting 38's out of a .357,
44 spcl our of 44 mag,
45 Schoefield, out of .45 Colt,
plus any of the other combintions will give this problem.

There is two ways to deal with it.
First only shoot propber round through the gun. IE, only shoot .357's out of a .357 revolver.

~OR~

Do as the others have said. Brass brush, solvent, and elbo grease + clean, clean, clean.


Personally, I'd skip the 38's, but I have maybe 50 rounds of 38's for every round of .357's. So I use the second choice.

J

[bountyhunter]

I was shooting some 38sp and some 357's out of my 627. They fit fine previously, but the last three shots the 357's empty brass were stuck in the cylinder (took about 3 minutes to get them out). Went home, cleaned out the cylinders with Hoppes and CLP. Found out 5 of 8 holes had trouble with inserting 357 cartridges (the other three slid in OK). Did I need to clean some more (looked clean to me) or is something wrong with the revolver cylinder. BTW, took utmost care in inserting and removing ammo, and cleaning the gun....No ND's for me.


What a coincidence: see this thread:

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=28865

[Tman]

You weren't using S&B 357's by any chance? It happened to me only after shooting S&B (on the other hand, it may have been all the crud that built up before then....:scrutiny:

[doctorj]

This is one of the reasons I make sure I clean my revolver ASAP after shooting. I use MPro7 as a cleaner, and the instructions specifically recommend a bristle brush for the bore; but I've found a tornado brush (with the spirals) good for the charge holes. Another trick is a piece of stainless steel pot scrubber wound around a jag tip or an old brush.

[Quantrill]

Try a Lewis Lead Remover. Quantrill

[bountyhunter]

You weren't using S&B 357's by any chance? It happened to me only after shooting S&B (on the other hand, it may have been all the crud that built up before then....

Actually, it's UMC .38 ammo. But, I also used to shoot S+B 158-gr FMJ and do remember it being a bit toward the same. But, this UMC stuff is absolutely nasty.:barf:

[Tman]

I tried Hoppes Bore cleaner and a .40 cal brass brush. Cleaned out each cylinder and they were really dirty (despite having put a bunch of patches alone through the cylinders the day before). They are now clean and able to hold .357's.

Bountyhunter:
I just realized I ran a bunch of .38sp UMC right before shooting S&B 357's right before the casings got stuck. Maybe it is dirty UMC stuff?

[bountyhunter]

Bountyhunter: I just realized I ran a bunch of .38sp UMC right before shooting S&B 357's right before the casings got stuck. Maybe it is dirty UMC stuff?

Sounds like the same thing mine had. That ammo is filthy and that burn residue is as hard as diamonds and welded on to the cylinder wall. I am not buying any more UMC ammo.

[Al Thompson]

Big Green must be buying their powder from Wolfe.

I've chucked a brass bristle brush in a drill. That works pretty fast. :) I still tend to avoid tornado brushes, but I tend to think they may be fine for the cylinder. Way too abrasive for the bore.

[Jim K]

I second the Lewis Lead Remover suggestion, but the oversize brush in a drill will work also and you can buy quite a few brushes for the cost of the Lead Remover. Another suggestion is a piece of brass wool (sold for cleaning pots and pans at your local supermarket) on a cleaning rod or dowel; it too can be used with a drill.

Jim

[arinvolvo]

Jim hit it on the head....a 40 cal brush, inserted into a power drill, and some lead/nitro solvent....that will fix your problem in a jiffy, and with less elbow grease on your part.

[Alan Smithiee]

copper pot scrubbers work well when cut and wrapped around a brush and chucked into a cordless drill (low speed please). good for removing lead fowling as well, the copper is harder than the lead but softer than the steel.

push all the way through and clear before pulling them back through again.