Barrel Browning


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Joe the Redneck
July 28, 2007, 07:40 PM
So I bought a kit gun from DGW and a bottle of DW browning soultion.

I'm having a little trouble getting it to stick in a few areas.

Metal prep went fine, I sanded it down to a nice 120 grit. Degreased, no problem.

When I did the first carding, I think I was a little too heavy handed with the 0000 steel wool. I think I rubbed too much off some of the edges and a few small areas.

Any thoughts on the best way to fix it. Should I just resand those areas, degrease and try again?

Thanks

Joe

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gezzer
July 29, 2007, 03:40 AM
120 is too course go to 280-320 any way. (I then bead blast with 320 grit glass beads)

Dump the Dixie and get some Laurel Mountain rust brown. After sanding clean with brake clean then rust with the solution for 24 hrs, carded wet with 2/0 or finer steel wool degreased with brake cleaner.

Repeat for 5-6 times and you will have a nice finish. When you want it black boil the barrel after each carding.

lonewolf5347
July 29, 2007, 05:22 AM
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a380/lonewolf5347/P1040007.jpg
the abve is a renegade kit gun from the 70's 54 flinter :I used the LMF browing chemical;just follow the instruction this stuff works,
I would say there is about 15 coats on this barrel and takes a good week to complete

ArmedBear
July 29, 2007, 01:19 PM
To get a minimally-good browning job, with some uneven parts, 3 complete applications are required. Count on that. Degrease and steel wool each time. If you've only gone over it once, you've only just begun to brown your barrel.:)

To get a really great browned finish, many more times are required, as lonewolf's perfect barrel exterior demonstrates.

Joe the Redneck
July 29, 2007, 01:27 PM
Thanks. Frankly, the DGA stuff worked really well. It produced a very warm and rich cocoa brown. I'm very pleased with it. But as the humidity here runs around 90%, it's hard to not get rust.

My reference books discussed the grits of the paper. For the project I'm doing, the coarser grade produced the effect I was looking for.

Basically, there are just two very tiny areas that are giving me trouble. I'm talking about maybe 1mm x 3mm. At this point, I think that any "cure" would be worle than the "disease". I think I'll look for a cosmetic fix.

Joe

ky_man
July 30, 2007, 11:46 PM
Try the "Laural Mountain Forge" browning solution. WOrks great and has a built in de-greaser.

ky_man
July 30, 2007, 11:47 PM
Try the "Laurel Mountain Forge" browning solution. Works great and has a built in de-greaser. Takes several coats in a high-humidity environment to get a nice choco brown.

Joe the Redneck
July 31, 2007, 03:54 PM
I can see Laurel mountain has a lot of support. I will sure give that company a go next time. But as I said, The DGW stuff did a great job. 3 days and 5 application gave a really nice deep brown.

The areas that gave me a problem I believe came from the first carding. I think I was a little to rough with it and went down to bare metal. This way the next application had nothing to stick to.

Anyway, my quick fix worked. I got the propane torch, heated the offending area, and applied a little cold blue and poof! Gone. Once the lindseed oil was on the barrell, you would never know.

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