[BigBlock]

Shot my Euroarms 1858 today, only about 25 rounds, and once again I see the cylinder pin is hopelessly jammed in. This happened before and I had to pound it out with a block of wood, gouging the barrel in the process. :rolleyes:

WHY does it keep getting jammed in? Obviously it's lubed up, and I hardly used it today! More importantly, how can I get it out without tearing up my gun? :cuss:

[Old Dragoon]

Are you using Bore Butter over the Balls? Have you polished the cylinder pin? I polish mine and I use Olive Oil and only NON PETROLEUM BASED lubes in the guns. if you are using petroleum based cleaners and lubes then the BP fouls it quick and hard. You can also cut grooves in the cylinder pin tn the area that falls inside the cylinder. My Euroarms Remy's, pietta's and the Uberti Carbine all would go five stages without binding using the above tricks.

Another trick I have came across is to cut a channel in the Cylinder pin about 1/8-1/4" in length with half falling inside the cylinder and the other half outside of the cylinder, inside the cylinder pin hole. This catches the gas blowback and allows the cylinder to perform longer without cleaning. It doesn't have to be very deep to help.

I found this on my 1860 Centaur Belgian Colt and it really helps that gun, so it should help the Remy's too.

Hope this helps.

[dstorm1911]

Mine used to bind on the top of the pin block against the bottom of the barrel/frame joint and required light sanding.

I just discovered today that my Euroarms is actually outa time on half the cyl. while the other half is dead perfect, it'll rotate the cyl all the way to center and lock on those 3 cylinders only if ya snap the hammer back otherwise...... I've just never been too impressed by either of my Euroarms 58s that was why they became the guinie pigs for shorty conversion as I didn't consider em a big loss if it didn't work out......... now gonna do a couple Ubertis then the Eroarms will get relagated to stand by duty.... the first problem was the binding base pin on both and then the trigger/sear springs on both then the hammer springs one after the last on each etc...

[BigBlock]

Hmmm...I don't have the right tools to cut a slot right now, but I guess I should try polishing it. How do you suggest I do that? I was using crisco over the balls and on the pin today. It doesn't seem to bind up on the cylinder at all, it still spins fine. So far I've been really happy with my euroarms, other than this problem. I've yet to have a single misfire and I usually do a crappy job of loading. :uhoh:

Any suggestions on how to get the damn thing out this time?


Thanks guys.

[RON in PA]

It's an inherent design fault of the Remington, read some of the contemporary lit. from the 1860's and folks were complaining about it back then. The Colts are much better about this. I find the best way to deal with this problem is to remove the pin after each cylinder full of shots and clean. It is also dependent on the individual gun. The use of the non-petroleum based lubes on the pin helps.

[sundance44s]

I always polish my cylinder pins , that helps alot ...but on a new gun ..keep a water bottle handy and when it seems stuck beyond an easy fix a splash of water on the pin where it meets the cylinder will break it free easy...I don`t care for all that pounding eaither ..rather clean up a little water . Just a little splash of water and spin the cylinder and its free .

[Cincinnati Slim]

This is the biggest weak point on the Remmie MNA design. There is no gas bushing and there is no machined collar to deflect cylinder gasses like on Conversion Colts or the 1875/1890 Remingtons that followed. I've heard of folks machining a recess at the front of the cylinder to hold a bushing to deflect the gas. You can polish the pin until it's easier to get out. Problem is, a tight pin really helps accuracy. I have a small soft face dead blow hammer which I use to knock my Remmie pins forward and drive out arbor wedges on Colt clones. I also use the butt of the handle to seat caps. Really a handy tool for C&B shootin'. I also use Ballistol or bore butter on the pin hole.
( I use a Dick Dastardly cylinder loader so I always remove the cylinder to reload, makes for MUCH more consistent loads and better accuracy)

If you study pictures of real antique Remmies a lot of 'em show dents and nicks on the frame in front of the cylinder where somebody has tried to knock/pry the pin out...

Cheers,

Slim

[Snaggletooth]

I use lube pills in all my cylinders and never have one bound up. Im not the only shooter that swears by them. Equal parts Parafin, Bees Wax and Beef tallow. (Mutton tallow is best but scarace) I boil the beef fat in water, let it cool and then take off the tallow when it cools, I then heat all of this together ,pour it in an old pan one eightn inch deep, let it cool and then i use a 45 cal io make my little circled or pills.

[Gaucho Gringo]

I too use a cylinder loader to load my Pietta 1858 Remington. I can shoot all day and have no problems with the cylinder. Even though I don't clean it between loadings I am sure taking the arbor pin out each time helps to keep it clean. When I buy my cylinder conversion I am going to get the drop in one vs one with a loading gate. I am sure I can drop the cartridge cylinder and reload faster than I can with the loading gate and ejector based on my loading speed on my Colt clone Taurus Gaucho.

[Old Dragoon]

GG,
That is what I found out after I had a gated conversion and an ejector assy from Kirst. I can drop my R & D and empty and reload and reinstall the cylinder quicker than I can unload a gated conversion using the ejector. I could do the same with Kirst non gated conversion as well.