Help put a value on this Model 10


August 31, 2007, 07:04 PM
I'm thinking about trading a gun for this Model 10. I plan to make this my main range gun as I reload 38spl very inexpensively.

What do you guys think would be a fair used price on this gun? The owner says it is in great shape with no signs of rust. Comes with everything pictured:

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August 31, 2007, 07:07 PM
As there is no picture I assume it comes with nothing.


August 31, 2007, 07:07 PM
Red X, no pic? I agree on shooting .38 Special inexpensively, I reload and cast for it.

August 31, 2007, 07:14 PM
Sorry fellas, pic is showing up for me. Let me host it on my photobucket and edit the original post. One sec.

August 31, 2007, 07:16 PM
is not a good link for a photo attachment.

August 31, 2007, 07:17 PM
I thought I could hotlink it from my inbox, obviously I can't do that. The pic is hosted on photobucket now and should show up.

August 31, 2007, 07:28 PM
Looks nice from here, I'd say $250, rough roundabout guess.

August 31, 2007, 07:43 PM
I'll buy as many of those as you can furnish at $250.

Excellent condition pre-lock heavy barrel Model 10.
Easily $350

You can put whatever value you want on the accessories.
Almost worthless in the used-stuff market.

August 31, 2007, 08:30 PM
$350 for a used M10? Man, I'm glad I don't live where you do if the gun prices are that high.

I think the $250 figure offered is good ballpark. I bought a pair of 2" M&Ps at $200 each recently and an unfired 10-7 4" gun for $180 a couple years back and I thought these decent deals.

August 31, 2007, 08:42 PM
I concur with W.E.G. they are high here as well. I think it's cuz I started buying them. As soon as I decide to buy a gun the suddenly double in value everywhere.

Old Fuff
August 31, 2007, 09:00 PM
Unfortunately (SOB!!) SaxonPig is wrong... :(

Around the country truly nice model 10 and older M&P revolvers are creeping up and into the $300 - $350 range. Police trade-in's may be a bit less, but not by much.

It's because some dumb folks started telling everyone how good they were, and now it's so bad I can't even cheat... no, I mean.. ah... purchase them from old widder' ladies anymore for a... um... ah... fair price. Oh me... what is the world coming too... :evil: :D

August 31, 2007, 09:16 PM
What gun are you planning to trade off for the Model 10?

I'd value the gun at about $250 myself. That's what I would be willing to pay for it. The accessories don't really add any value in my mind.

August 31, 2007, 10:17 PM
In my neck of the woods, a heavy barrel Model 10 would sell relatively easily at $200, and would likely sell much slower at $250. At $350 it would gather dust.

This particular gun appears to be a newer, unpinned Model 10, with Goodyear grips and a plastic box. The lock would be on the left side of the gun. If you want to make certain it has no lock, you need to get the dash number. The accessories are gravy and should not be tacked on to the price. The Old Fuff is correct about general increases in S&W prices, but the increases in my experience have been on the older, pinned wood gripped Model 10's and the M&Ps, along with the N frames.

I would offer $200.

August 31, 2007, 11:46 PM
I don't believe that this Model 10 has an integral lock, even though it does come in a plastic box. Look at the hammer and trigger... they are not MIM so I believe the firing pin is on the hammer nose. I don't think there were Model 10s with color-case-hardened hammers and triggers that had "the lock" as the hammer for lock guns was MIM technology.

This gun could have some very good metallurgy and excellent rifling; it is at least very possible.

The extras don't interest me, but if this Model 10 satisfied me about no-MIM and no-LOCK I would easily fork over $250 for it.

Old Fuff
September 1, 2007, 12:11 AM
I can't get enough detail out of the photograph to tell for sure, but I think the trigger could be MIM, while the hammer is still "real steel" with the firing pin mounted on the front. This is possible, because on some models they started using MIM triggers before they switched over the hammers and other lockwork. When they went to MIM hammers they also changed the contour of the frame at the back to beef it up and make space for the lock. I don't see that in this frame. If the seller would provide a serial number we might be able to discover more. If the firing pin is on the hammer I would expect that this gun wouldn't have the lock.

September 1, 2007, 12:36 AM
I bought a model 10-1 with original grips for $250 this year. Cop gun, light holster wear and barely unfired. The 10-1 was the first heavy barrel M&P, so I didn't mind paying $25-50 more than the going rate around here for these types of guns. Literally millions of M&Ps were made, so there are plenty out there.

September 1, 2007, 04:21 AM
I bought a 10-5 last weekend for $269 plus fees. The metal is in good shape, but the grips were kinda beaten up. The previous owner must have done a lot of pistol-whipping :) I bought some Hogues for it, but they just don't look good to me, so I'm looking for original wood grips or something similar.

Some have told me I got a good deal, others thought I was crazy for buying it. I hear that an M10 was $95 new in the mid-70's, so almost $300 for a used version is kind of shocking for some people. That being said, I couldn't imagine getting a like-new model for less than $350 around here (Southern Illinois).

September 1, 2007, 09:20 AM
I'm not seeing the hammer rivet that would be attaching the firing pin to the hammer, but I'm not seeing a pin to hold it in the frame either (similar to what is on a K-22)

Main reason I'm posting again is to ask Old Fuff if there are any reported wear problems suing MIM and real steel together? I refuse to do this on a 1911 between the hammer and sear, and I just wonder if S&W is still using the steel DA sear with a MIM trigger, and if it matters as much.

You sould definitely ask for a "dash number" and a serial so you will know what you are getting.

Old Fuff
September 1, 2007, 09:55 AM
So far as I know, no problems concerning the use of a MIM trigger and older hammer have surfaced. In any case they only did this for a short time. I don't see the rivet on the hammer either, but on my monitor the revolver itself in the picture is so small I can't be sure of anything. In later guns the pin that holds the frame-mounted firing pin is under the sideplate, so we wouldn't see it. I am more interested in the contour of the frame where the hammer is. Later frames have a more shallow curve and more meat in this area. I also don't know if they are making the D.A. sear as before, or using MIM technology, but I suspect it might well be MIM, as that part would be a likely application. Good or bad? Only time will tell, but I only have one MIM constructed revolver, and it's a safe queen.

If TFin04 should buy this revolver and discover it was built on an older (no lock) frame and had coventional lockwork except for the trigger, a matching older trigger could be installed to replace the MIM one, if this was of concern to him. It wouldn't be to me, unless I planed to use the gun as a defensive weapon.

Smith & Wesson is sort of like Microsoft - they expect the buyer to do the bata testing... :banghead:

I agree with your observations concerning the use of MIM hammers and sears in a 1911 style pistol. My principal worry is that the sharp edges on the sear and hammer full-cock notch could chip away or get rounded off.

September 1, 2007, 12:04 PM
In later guns the pin that holds the frame-mounted firing pin is under the sideplate, so we wouldn't see it.Once again, he proves why he is Old Fuff and I am but a young Xavier. :D

Old Fuff
September 1, 2007, 02:30 PM
Once again, he proves why he is Old Fuff and I am but a young Xavier.

Did I just feel a blade slipping between my ribs???? :evil: :D

Anyway, be careful if you pop the sideplate on one of the new guns. I understand that this pin likes to get loose, after which the firing pin and spring may disappear too... :eek:

It's a new S&W feature designed to ruduce your ammunition costs... :neener:

September 1, 2007, 05:05 PM
You know, on second thought that hammer spur looks suspiciously shorter than the forged hammers on non-MIM Model 10s. And the roll markings on the barrel look larger as well, possibly a very late model Model 10. It just may be a MIM hammer, and therefore have "The Lock"! :uhoh:

There is usually only one reason a Smith&Wesson revolver is purposely photographed with the left side down, and we all know what that is....... :cuss:

Old Fuff
September 1, 2007, 06:15 PM

First look at this post, with a picture of a late model 10 with MIM innards and the lock (post #31).

Now look at the first post on this thread, with a picture of the gun in question. Notice the contour of the frame beside the hammer, and how the curve is more shallow on the newer gun. It has to be to make room for the lock, and to beef-up the frame for more extensive use of hot loads.

While this is not proof-positive, I think it will turn out that this revolver doesn't have the lock, and it may be one of the last ones made that you can say that about. On the other hand the trigger is more open to question, given the quality of the photograph we're looking at.

I don't see the accessories as being worthless either. It would cost (more or less) $50.00 to replace them.

September 1, 2007, 07:20 PM
If this is a late model gun, new ones are close to $500 believe it or not. But since it's used, top price would be maybe $350.

September 1, 2007, 08:37 PM
I would give $275 for it in a heartbeat.

September 1, 2007, 09:57 PM
FWIW, Blue Book sez:
MSRP- $632
100%- $465
98%- $315
95%- $235
90%- $185

Older police guns bring $2-300 in these parts

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