Criticize this project


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Boats
July 6, 2003, 01:24 PM
I am looking for feedback.

It is a Ruger GP-100 because I am left-handed and the S&W cylinder catch sucks in my left-handed opinion and a Colt is too spendy of a base gun to modify it like I propose.

1) Using the ""Revolver check out" info acquire a used 4" or 6" blued Ruger GP-100.

2) After some range testing for accuracy and function, send it to Clark's Custom Guns for the following: Moonclip conversion, chamber chamfering, cut barrel to 3" and recrown, remove the "Read the Manual" bill board on the left side of the barrel, action job with Wolff springs.

3) Send to Bill at Cylinder and Slide for the hand polished "master blueing job" and installation of Express tritium adjustable sights.

4) Acquire checkered Lett grips in winewood with bird medallions and finger grooves or alternatively get some custom made Jordan Troopers in Bocote from Herritt's.

Price tag:

$250- 300 for revo.

Clark Custom:
85 for moon conversion
95 for barrel cut and billboard removal
90 for action job
25 for chamfering
No refinishing as it goes to C&S

C&S:
150 for sights and install
341 for master polish blueing.

Grips:
75-100 for stocks

TOTAL:

$1136-1211

Of course going stainless would save me $341 and lose a lot of the coolness quotient. Here is a sample of the blueing this guy can perform:



http://www.cylinder-slide.com/images/vaquero/vaq9lg.jpg

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Blueduck
July 6, 2003, 02:11 PM
If your sure thats what you really really want and it's not just a passing fancy, then fine money well spent.

Just gotta think about the fact that after shipping your gonna have $1,300 in a revolver you likely won't be able to sell for more than $350...

Old Fuff
July 6, 2003, 03:11 PM
Custom guns do cost money, but then not everyone has one.

You might be able to find a GP-100 with an original 3" barrel. I'd try before getting a longer length.

We agree, carbon steel is a better material then stainless. To me, the additional hardness is worth it even though a blue finish requires more care.

The late Bill Jordan was a friend of mine and we often discussed his shooting methods. His grips did not have finger groves or checkering for a good reason. If one didn't get a proper grip at the start of a draw they could relax and then tighten the hand during a split second and the gun would "slip" to where it should be. This presumes the grip is correctly shaped to fit the user's hand.

Boats
July 6, 2003, 03:46 PM
The 500 round "honeymoon" is to decide whether to do it. I know full well that when one customizes a pretty common revolver one had best make it an heirloom and never sell it. What is really over the top is that I am thinking real ivory grips. I have one son who will want it when I am gone and am having a second one soon to fight him over it. Hopefully, I will have one 1911 fan and one wheelgunner. ;)

Checkering on the grips is a hold over preference from my autopistol experience where the more checkering, the merrier. Maybe non-checkered is the way to go. I will evaluate this as I go.

Regarding 3" barrels on a GP-100. I want the length because I like the balance. At 6' 8" I don't have many concealment concerns, therefore, no SP-101 project, I want the "full" frame.

I digress. First, blue steel 4" and 6" Rugers are far easier to find used than 3". Two, the fixed sight ones often don't shoot POA with more than a couple of loads, which will screw with my honest appraisal of the accuracy of the gun. Three, it is easier for the 'smith to cut and recrown the barrel than to mill in the slot and tap the topstrap for adjustables on a true 3-incher.

It would be strange having a Ruger with a blueing job more "valuable" than the base gun. I still have the stray dream about having the weapon as described and can't seem to shake the thought of possessing it.

JoeHatley
July 6, 2003, 03:55 PM
Boats,

Sounds like a very kool project. The only think I would suggest is to call and talk with a smith at both shops. I'll bet you may find either shop could do the entire project, and you'd save a lot of time and shipping charges.

Good luck, and be sure to keep us posted if you go ahead with it.

Joe

WebHobbit
July 6, 2003, 06:51 PM
Old Fluff said:

To me, the additional hardness is worth it even though a blue finish requires more care

I've not found any "hard evidence" (pun intended) that Blue Carbon is harder than stainless. I've seen this concept argued over and over with no clear resolution.

Old Fuff
July 6, 2003, 07:02 PM
Heat treated high-carbon chrome-moly steel is harder then the alloys used to make stainless handguns. However the stainless is more elastic and less likely to crack under high pressure. If you notice, stainless is much more likely to show holster wear. My source of information on the properties of various steels used by gunmakers was Bill Ruger Sr. during a conversation I had with him on the subject. Most of the European gun makers didn't want to produce stainless guns and/or slides and only did so when market pressures forced them too. Glock still doesn't.

Dave Markowitz
July 6, 2003, 08:09 PM
If you have the $$ and the desire, why not? Sounds like you'd wind up with a really nice revolver.

I thought it was interesting that as a sourhpaw you don't care for the S&W cylinder release. I'm left-handed and I prefer it to the Colt and Ruger releases. Oh well, different stroke for different folks.

Boats
July 6, 2003, 09:06 PM
I have really long fingers and prefer to stab at the catch with my trigger finger. The Ruger is simply way easier for me.

Standing Wolf
July 6, 2003, 10:01 PM
...remove the "Read the Manual" bill board on the left side of the barrel...

One of several reasons I don't own any Rugers.

Majic
July 6, 2003, 11:45 PM
I have seen other posters mention one of the modifications you are planning and would like your answer on the subject. Why cut a revolver for moonclips? It seems to add a wink link to proven design.

Boats
July 7, 2003, 12:28 AM
Simple, moonclips are even faster than a Safariland Comp III springloaded speedloader from what I have seen in shooting matches. In a true rimmed case round like the .357 magnum, moonclips are a luxury add on--the revolver will function just fine without the clips--therefore no weak link.

Billy Sparks
July 7, 2003, 08:23 AM
Regarding 3" barrels on a GP-100. I want the length because I like the balance. At 6' 8" I don't have many concealment concerns, therefore, no SP-101 project, I want the "full" frame

I understand this completely I prefer a 3" barrel on revolvers. That said you realize that Ruger makes a GP100 with a factory 3" barrel. Might reduce your custom prices just a hair.

Boats
July 7, 2003, 10:45 AM
It is looking like the cheapest fix to the "custom" 3" inch Ruger with adjustable sights is the ability to simply order a new barrel for installation. Evidently Bowen can and does do rebarrelling all of the time and Ruger provides the part as long as the old one is exchanged in the process. Then all that need be done is to have the "Read the Manual" billboard removed from the left side.:D

4v50 Gary
July 7, 2003, 12:42 PM
I think you can do almost all of that yourself if you take a couple of classes at a NRA gunsmithing summer school. Gunbluing course will allow you to polish & reblue. Revolver course you can tune your own, chamfer your own cylinder. You might even want to buy a custom barrel to use in lieu of the Ruger bbl.

Z_Infidel
July 7, 2003, 02:40 PM
You might want to consider Bowen's new heavy duty adjustable rear sight. I have the shallow v-notch version on my GP100 and I really like it. Doesn't snag, is very solid and durable, and makes acquiring the sights very quick. I also think it looks better than most adjustable sights. I have a Big Dot night sight on the front as well.

CMcDermott
July 10, 2003, 11:32 PM

10-Ring
July 11, 2003, 09:32 PM
As long as you've found value in the project & you're enjoying yourself, why not? Have fun & post pics, I'll bet it'll be sweet!

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